Redline,

what material have you used on those heatsinks? Are they of extruded anodized aluminium? What size are they? How much watts of LED are you going to install on each?

I too think that brick design is the worst possible way of doing LED grow lamps.

Right now i ordered a batch of extruded heatsink bars (13.4cm wide, about 5 1/2") to do LED modules that may be placed either on top, using an frame like yours, or hanged between plants.

RackitMan, induction fluorescents was released at the beggining of the decade. It was a very promisory technology, but manufacturers had been unable to offer it at competitive prices. And they have a reliability problem with the induction units: while the bulb itself may last very long (60-100Kh), the inductor units often fail between 25-30Kh. So it nevers gets a decent share on sales, and prices continues high. And with 150 lm/w LED expected on 1-2 years, nobody is going to invest more on induction fluorescents development.
knna Reviewed by knna on . Building LED lights from facts, no theories I was going to post this at the Perfect LED Grow Light thread, but as some of what im going to post was posted 2 years ago on the stickied thread about LEDs and people still continue developing lights from wrong ideas, i think a thread about this topic is largelly needed. The main problem is related to efficacy of spectrums. When the firsts LED experiments at Overgrow, we work on the hypothesis that blue and red light are more effective. It was an appealing hypothesis that promises large Rating: 5