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  1.     
    #1
    Senior Member

    Drying, Curing, Pollinating, Seed Prep

    My first harvest (YES!) is coming up soon, looks like MAYBE I'll be lucky if i get an eighth dry, how long should I dry it for, is a Rx pill bottle (cleaned of course) good for curing? or not since its not gas proof? Im probably gonna cure it for a month for a smooth eighth (already spent this much time on it, might as well follow through),

    Secondly, I have some beaners, and was gonna try to make some feminized seeds thru light stressing to utilize space and time, when would be the best time frame for the highest amount of 'matured' seeds?

    Seed Preperation, this guy i know just takes his pure afghan (pure, grown from clone, always the same) and hangs it upside down for 10 days, and every now and then you find like 1-3 seeds in an eighth, very small stems so it works out good in bud ratio, anywaysssss, I CANNOT get these seeds to germinate. Period. anything i might be doing wrong? I left some out on a paper tray i made, for a couple days, thinkin they might still be to wet or something to germinate, nothing... but i have like 120 schwag beaners (not actually schwag schwag... its what people call mids from most places, theres only like 40 beaners in an ounce) and i have next to no problem getting them to go, i got like a 80% germination rate on those, and i found one seed in some lavender, from soma, grown by a respectful person, not a shady dealer, and i got that growing, its beautiful, and DEFINETLY indica dominant, but im having trouble getting dank beaners to sprout, im 1/13 or something, my one, that lavender, one of my failures a random bag seed, 9 afghans, and the other two were from other good bags,


    Could someone walk me through a seed prep so they have the highest germination rate, when i start my feminizing project after harvest? I heard that just the drying and cure process was enough. which i assumeeee was the lavender only, how can i make sure a seed is prepared the best it can be for germination from a bag?
    stinkybudz Reviewed by stinkybudz on . Drying, Curing, Pollinating, Seed Prep My first harvest (YES!) is coming up soon, looks like MAYBE I'll be lucky if i get an eighth dry, how long should I dry it for, is a Rx pill bottle (cleaned of course) good for curing? or not since its not gas proof? Im probably gonna cure it for a month for a smooth eighth (already spent this much time on it, might as well follow through), Secondly, I have some beaners, and was gonna try to make some feminized seeds thru light stressing to utilize space and time, when would be Rating: 5

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  3.     
    #2
    Senior Member

    Drying, Curing, Pollinating, Seed Prep

    Quote Originally Posted by stinkybudz
    My first harvest (YES!) is coming up soon, looks like MAYBE I'll be lucky if i get an eighth dry, how long should I dry it for, is a Rx pill bottle (cleaned of course) good for curing? or not since its not gas proof? Im probably gonna cure it for a month for a smooth eighth (already spent this much time on it, might as well follow through),
    Most of us use a class container to cure. IMHO, a month of cure is unnecessary overkill.

    Quote Originally Posted by stinkybudz
    Secondly, I have some beaners, and was gonna try to make some feminized seeds thru light stressing to utilize space and time, when would be the best time frame for the highest amount of 'matured' seeds?
    If you are only getting an eighth, you might not be letting her go long enough to mature the seeds. Takes about 7-9 weeks from pollination for seeds to reach full maturity. (and thusly, full viability)

    Quote Originally Posted by stinkybudz
    Seed Preperation, this guy i know just takes his pure afghan (pure, grown from clone, always the same) and hangs it upside down for 10 days, and every now and then you find like 1-3 seeds in an eighth, very small stems so it works out good in bud ratio, anywaysssss, I CANNOT get these seeds to germinate. Period. anything i might be doing wrong? I left some out on a paper tray i made, for a couple days, thinkin they might still be to wet or something to germinate, nothing... but i have like 120 schwag beaners (not actually schwag schwag... its what people call mids from most places, theres only like 40 beaners in an ounce) and i have next to no problem getting them to go, i got like a 80% germination rate on those, and i found one seed in some lavender, from soma, grown by a respectful person, not a shady dealer, and i got that growing, its beautiful, and DEFINETLY indica dominant, but im having trouble getting dank beaners to sprout, im 1/13 or something, my one, that lavender, one of my failures a random bag seed, 9 afghans, and the other two were from other good bags,
    What color were/are the seeds? If tan or yellow, they are not mature. Some tan seeds germinate, but it's an inconsistent result, and genes may not be fully developed.

    With a 'crop' that small, I'd place in a paper lunch bag, (unwaxed) and let dry till it starts to feel a tad crispy. Open once a day to replace the damp air inside.(different conditions dictate actual dry time for this) Then I'd remove buds from the branches and put 'em in the jar. Open jar once or twice a day for a few minutes to let the outgassed vapors escape.

    Quote Originally Posted by stinkybudz
    Could someone walk me through a seed prep so they have the highest germination rate, when i start my feminizing project after harvest? I heard that just the drying and cure process was enough. which i assumeeee was the lavender only, how can i make sure a seed is prepared the best it can be for germination from a bag?
    From pollination, 7-9 weeks of maturation is mandatory. I pollinate the pistols on the lower branches of the plant only. That way, if the rest of the plant is ready to harvest, you can remove all the 'seedless' buds, and let the seeds (lower branches) continue maturing.
    I put about a quarter inch of ph'd water in a little glass spice jar, and add the seeds. Once they drop to the bottom, and start to split, I plant them in a cup of soil. Keep moist till sprout appears. If the seed covers don't want to open...'scuffing' the seed suture with fine sandpaper helps the water to absorb into the seed, kick-starting the germination process. Don't sand down all the way to the embryo, tho...just a little scuff will do. (You can't do this after you've tried germinating them, tho. Must be done before getting 'em wet)

    In all honesty...I'd first see if you can bring a lady (and her seeds) all the way to full maturity, before screwing with genetic modifications. (femming seeds). Tiz very easy to ruin quality genetics, and there's no going back. Also, learning to clone can help shorten the grow process, especially if femming seeds.

    Most folks can easily get an ounce, (dried and cured) from a lady in a 3 gallon soil grow. If you can reach this milestone, perhaps you are ready to play. Till then, would recommend you just work on your technique and patience.

  4.     
    #3
    Senior Member

    Drying, Curing, Pollinating, Seed Prep

    Quote Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
    Most of us use a class container to cure. IMHO, a month of cure is unnecessary overkill.


    If you are only getting an eighth, you might not be letting her go long enough to mature the seeds. Takes about 7-9 weeks from pollination for seeds to reach full maturity. (and thusly, full viability)


    What color were/are the seeds? If tan or yellow, they are not mature. Some tan seeds germinate, but it's an inconsistent result, and genes may not be fully developed.

    With a 'crop' that small, I'd place in a paper lunch bag, (unwaxed) and let dry till it starts to feel a tad crispy. Open once a day to replace the damp air inside.(different conditions dictate actual dry time for this) Then I'd remove buds from the branches and put 'em in the jar. Open jar once or twice a day for a few minutes to let the outgassed vapors escape.



    From pollination, 7-9 weeks of maturation is mandatory. I pollinate the pistols on the lower branches of the plant only. That way, if the rest of the plant is ready to harvest, you can remove all the 'seedless' buds, and let the seeds (lower branches) continue maturing.
    I put about a quarter inch of ph'd water in a little glass spice jar, and add the seeds. Once they drop to the bottom, and start to split, I plant them in a cup of soil. Keep moist till sprout appears. If the seed covers don't want to open...'scuffing' the seed suture with fine sandpaper helps the water to absorb into the seed, kick-starting the germination process. Don't sand down all the way to the embryo, tho...just a little scuff will do. (You can't do this after you've tried germinating them, tho. Must be done before getting 'em wet)

    In all honesty...I'd first see if you can bring a lady (and her seeds) all the way to full maturity, before screwing with genetic modifications. (femming seeds). Tiz very easy to ruin quality genetics, and there's no going back. Also, learning to clone can help shorten the grow process, especially if femming seeds.

    Most folks can easily get an ounce, (dried and cured) from a lady in a 3 gallon soil grow. If you can reach this milestone, perhaps you are ready to play. Till then, would recommend you just work on your technique and patience.


    Great feedback! You sir are the man. Kudos'

  5.     
    #4
    Senior Member

    Drying, Curing, Pollinating, Seed Prep

    Quote Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
    Most of us use a class container to cure. IMHO, a month of cure is unnecessary overkill.
    Will experiment my time then, sample a little each week


    Quote Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
    If you are only getting an eighth, you might not be letting her go long enough to mature the seeds. Takes about 7-9 weeks from pollination for seeds to reach full maturity. (and thusly, full viability)
    Sorry I ment on my next run, this was just to experiment growing, rescue a friends plant, and see all I could do to keep it staying alive. Thanks though for the 7-9 week time frame


    Quote Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
    What color were/are the seeds? If tan or yellow, they are not mature. Some tan seeds germinate, but it's an inconsistent result, and genes may not be fully developed.
    They are :beatdeadhorse: that kind of a brown color with stripes like the rasta smily:rastasmoke:

    Quote Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
    With a 'crop' that small, I'd place in a paper lunch bag, (unwaxed) and let dry till it starts to feel a tad crispy. Open once a day to replace the damp air inside.(different conditions dictate actual dry time for this) Then I'd remove buds from the branches and put 'em in the jar. Open jar once or twice a day for a few minutes to let the outgassed vapors escape.
    Thanks, and I could of gotten around an ounce if i had my tote filled, so much wasted light but the next run will be a uniform strain



    Quote Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
    From pollination, 7-9 weeks of maturation is mandatory. I pollinate the pistols on the lower branches of the plant only. That way, if the rest of the plant is ready to harvest, you can remove all the 'seedless' buds, and let the seeds (lower branches) continue maturing.
    I put about a quarter inch of ph'd water in a little glass spice jar, and add the seeds. Once they drop to the bottom, and start to split, I plant them in a cup of soil. Keep moist till sprout appears. If the seed covers don't want to open...'scuffing' the seed suture with fine sandpaper helps the water to absorb into the seed, kick-starting the germination process. Don't sand down all the way to the embryo, tho...just a little scuff will do. (You can't do this after you've tried germinating them, tho. Must be done before getting 'em wet)
    Yeah thats how I germinate my seeds, and i have like no problem with schwag seeds, and im guessing thats because they are overdryd and the entire plant was probly harvested WAY late

    Quote Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
    In all honesty...I'd first see if you can bring a lady (and her seeds) all the way to full maturity, before screwing with genetic modifications. (femming seeds). Tiz very easy to ruin quality genetics, and there's no going back. Also, learning to clone can help shorten the grow process, especially if femming seeds.
    Actually this plant that im getting an eighth about off of is my one im bringing to maturity thats a seedless grow, i only mentioned her for the drying curing part. Also the feminizing was going to happen to clones off a mother plant im being gifted with from a friend, with a exchange of genetics (I found a Soma's Lavender bagseed and we cloned it and he gave me a clone off of his pure afghan, which from all the different afghans i read on seedbanks are good yielders in SOGS *yes!*) and he helped me get cloning down, he uses rockwool and clonex, did i mention this plant is like a standalone SOG'er?

    Quote Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
    Most folks can easily get an ounce, (dried and cured) from a lady in a 3 gallon soil grow. If you can reach this milestone, perhaps you are ready to play. Till then, would recommend you just work on your technique and patience.
    If I had a uniform strain and hadnt killed all my other seedlings dumbly, this would of came out to an ounce, in 5 gallons of soil, and if i had a uniform strain I would of gotten about a .5g/w, but now then im gettin afghan cut im gonna build a mother box and a little cloning box, and he said he will give me a bottle of unopened clonex for 15 bucks. practice feminizing seeds for that backup stash incase of death. But thanks for the help Rusty

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