So- if'n yer gonna run off both sides of the box, why not just wire the whole thing @ 240- which is what yer doing anyway, effectively- and use the same standards that are required for 240v (120vX2)?

Easy enough to tap the ballasts for 240- If you bought a decent ballast w/in the last two-three years, it's just a matter of changing the power cord.

I dunno- why re-invent the wheel? Esp when we're dealing with something that the original poster stated was dangerous? Why not just do it the right way? Only gonna cost a buck or two more... and if you're ever selling the building, you won't have to deal with oddball wiring...

I just don't understand the advantage to doing it this way...Why not do it right?
rhizome Reviewed by rhizome on . 1000's of watts of light? here are some tips. Well I just joined so I guess I'll share some knowledge. First I would like to say that if you are not familiar with electricity this kind of work should be left to someone who is. Electricity is dangerous at any voltage, never work on anything live and make sure to ground everything. So lets say you've gone all out and your pushing a couple thousand watts of lights. First thing you want it is a timer but they usualy don't handle the load you need unless you spend big bucks. What you need is a Rating: 5