Another yellow fever scare...

[TheMetal1]

Haha :jointsmile: I've read through a couple hundred "what is causing this yellowing?" threads and wanted to have my own. I was hoping to go start to finish without asking for help... but as I have said in other posts... I like to see humans work :stoned:

E-indoor or outdoor: Indoor
E-soil, soilless, coco, aero, or hydroponic: Soil
E-specific medium: Composted cow manure/humus (1-1-1)
CSL-Soil type/brand: Jolly Gardener
SCL-Anything you have added to the soil: 30-40% perlite
SCLR-Soil or slab runoff pH: 6.6-6.9 w/ liquid test kit
E-Water source: tap
E-Source water pH: 7.6+ (nute mix and plain h2o is pH adjusted prior to use)
E-Age of plant: ~2 months veg (hot soil/lockout problems stunted growth) 21 days flower
E-Type of fertilizer: Fox Farm Grow Big, Big Bloom, Tiger Bloom, Molasses
E-Rate of application: For flower = Big bloom/Tiger bloom @ full dose (So far one cycle of flush... then 3 consecutive feeds) Next water or feed is tomorrow a.m. Watering is dictated by container weight = ~ 2x per week
E-Lighting source and distance from plant: 6000+ lumens/sq. foot 2700k CFL(2-3 inches from LST'd canopy)
E-Air temperature (both day and night if you are running a dark period): 75-80 Day/55-65 Night
E-Air % Relative humidity: max 50% low 30%
E-Lighting schedule: (24/0 veg) (12/12 flower)
E-Type of ventilation your room has: 6" inline duct booster for micro cab
TR-Did you pre-soak your media in pH corrected solution? Soil was flushed

Bagseed from Beasters. I know that CFL's don't penetrate very deep into the canopy... and yellowing is relatively normal during flower anyway. Probably have 4-6 weeks to go, I'm guessing. Wondering if this is too much yellowing for this current phase. Was planning a pH adjusted flush. Possibly followed by diluted bloom fert. Is it worth the risk of giving it Nitrogen?
Any help is passed along to the commitee :hippy:

- Pic might suck... so do my eyes. Tube flouro may exaggerate the yellowing a bit, but not much.

TheMetal1 Reviewed by TheMetal1 on 09-11-2008. Another yellow fever scare... Haha :jointsmile: I've read through a couple hundred "what is causing this yellowing?" threads and wanted to have my own. I was hoping to go start to finish without asking for help... but as I have said in other posts... I like to see humans work :stoned: E-indoor or outdoor: Indoor E-soil, soilless, coco, aero, or hydroponic: Soil E-specific medium: Composted cow manure/humus (1-1-1) CSL-Soil type/brand: Jolly Gardener SCL-Anything you have added to the soil: 30-40% perlite SCLR-Soil Rating: 5

[Rusty Trichome]

Is your tap water filtered? If so, you'll need to add a calcium suppliment of some sort. (CalMag Plus) If not filtered, and tap is from the city...do you let the chlorine evaporate before use?

How much of the Tiger Bloom and Big Bloom are you using, and how often? With my ladies, if I use too much of the Big Bloom, the leaves get a dusky-green color. There should be plenty of nitrogen in the Tiger Bloom to take them thru flower. Did you know Fox Farms has a feding schedule on their website that works pretty good?

Mighty chunky soil ya got there. But 1-1-1 for the soil? Even Miracle Grow Moisture Control is only 0.21 - 0.07 - 0.14. Granted, MG isn't organic, tho. Any chance of finding a better grade (indoor) soil mix?

How much molasses and when? Too much can cause lock-out.

[TheMetal1]

Is your tap water filtered?...... If not filtered, and tap is from the city...do you let the chlorine evaporate before use?

Non-filtered town water supply... left out at least 24 hours.

How much of the Tiger Bloom and Big Bloom are you using, and how often? ....Did you know Fox Farms has a feding schedule on their website that works pretty good?

Yeah, a schedule came with the package also. Been using suggested amounts, just not the week by week schedule. As mentioned, feed/water is based on container weight. Also, did not include any grow fert during 12/12 like the schedule recommends.

Mighty chunky soil ya got there. But 1-1-1 for the soil? Any chance of finding a better grade (indoor) soil mix?

Yeah, I don't know. The picture does make the soil look kinda gnarly, and it's dry, but it has a nice feel to it when mixing up and it's fairly light. I had never really looked, to be honest, but yeah... it says 1% Total Nitrogen 1% available Phosphoric Acid and 1% Potash. It freaked the shit out the plants when they were young and they had to be put into some starter mix. Maybe it needs a bit more thorough flush, at least. They're probably going to finish in the pants they have on... and it was hard enough to find ANYTHING other than MG. Thinking of coco for the winter too, so I'd prefer not to invest in more dirt.

How much molasses and when?

Maybe 1 tblspn. per gallon? If that, because half of it stays on the damn spoon. Ugh, that shit smells so awful too. For some reason, it just smells like cold Spaghettio's.

[TheMetal1]

I woke up this morning and BUMPED my head... I mean thread. Planning for a thorough flush in an hour or two. I swear I'll do it... don't try to stop me. Well... unless I should do something else instead.

BUMP-ed :stoned:

[Rusty Trichome]

Flushes usually do no harm, unless root rot is setting-in, or you don't properly adjust ph first. Have at it. :thumbsup:

[TheMetal1]

Yeah... I've been putting it off today as well. Still a little bit of weight left in the pots. I've got about 5 more hours until lights out. Thinking of dropping another 5200 lumens of CFL this weekend too. Thanks for the input Rusty.

Any other advice is welcomed :hippy:

[TheMetal1]

Now that I think of it... levels may have been adjusted to the low 6's. If the tap water is between 7.0-7.5... can the containers be flushed straight through with that? I was under the impression that one should pH adjust the water prior to flushing... but I have also read that straight tap water is fine if you intend on feeding a pH adjusted weak bloom fert after the flush is done.

I should have re-named this damn thread. Looks like it should be in the Conspiracy section next to a post on Bird Flu. :stoned:

[Rusty Trichome]

Sudden ph changes can still piss-off the roots, and you risk shock, lockout, nanners. IMHO, best to adjust to 6.8 or 6.9. Tiz worth keeping them on a steady course.
You mentioned water at low 6's? If this is before adding nutes, you can create an even lower ph than you intend. For a soil grow, low 6's is a tad too low. I adjust my water to 6.9 or so, then after adding nutes it goes to 6.7 or so. (depends on the nutes, tho)

[TheMetal1]

I think you got it. Putting it into a thread helped me realize what I've been doing. I've definitely been adjusting the nutrient mix pH too low. If anything, I need to flush with at least 6.9 adjusted water and then I'll do a weak feed. Oh, and the Big Bloom/Tiger Bloom/Molasses works out to almost exactly 6.5 so I never bothered to adjust it... hence the current state of affairs. Thanks for the reminder on drastic pH fluctuations. Even though I would finish with a pH adjusted mix... the time spent flushing would expose the roots to improper water levels. Thanks for stopping back through. First thing in the a.m. they're getting a bath. The yellowing has spread upwards, but I refuse to stress out about any part of this :jointsmile:. What happens, worse case scenario... 80-90% of the fan leaves die off prior to harvest time? Is it time to chop? Or will the buds still benefit from direct light exposure?

Again, thanks Rusty :rasta:

[Dutch Pimp]

I always seems to me, that the buds operate separate from the fan leaves. IMO. If that makes any sense...:stoned:

http://boards.cannabis.com/plant-pro...ow-leaves.html