Inline Fans PROBLEMS???????

[OLDJIMMYBONES]

im trying to keep this nice and compact so i can close the closet door and becides the exhaust coming out its reasonably discreet

[xcrispi]

Get the hot ballast outside the cabinet , find a way to straighten up the ductwork a lil and you might be ok.
Crispi :stoned:

[OLDJIMMYBONES]

ok, i tossed the ballast and strightened the lines up best i could, but i have a quick question. should i just leave one end of the cool tube open to suck in air?


im goving it a run rite now so i see how low i can get the temp

[texas grass]

ok, i tossed the ballast and strightened the lines up best i could, but i have a quick question. should i just leave one end of the cool tube open to suck in air?


im goving it a run rite now so i see how low i can get the temp

thats how i have mine with no problems, but i have mine sucking out hot air and blowing through the scrubber. especially on a small cab. ventilation, smell, and heat can all be controlled by 1 fan. your good 6"

[OLDJIMMYBONES]

well the temp seems to have toped off at 92.4F.

its getting better

thanks for everyones help

[xcrispi]

Damn JB ,
Those new fangled digi ballasts really do run cooler . I thought you'd get more drop than that for sure .

Even if you do get temps right in it - if you do get 6 good clones / plants in that hydro sys . that cabinets gonna explode about 1/2 way through bloom . Reapers got a 400hps in a cabinet about your size and he has a hard time cramming 2 plants in his . How much veg. time in your past grows ?

Crispi :stoned:

[Opie Yutts]

1) Have everything possible outside your grow area. Ballasts and fans make heat.
2) Pull your air over your light instead of pushing. If your light isn't completely sealed the fan will push hot air out into your grow instead of sucking hot air out of your grow and pushing it outside.
3) Have a dedicated intake and exhaust just for the light and another for the grow.
4) Intake close to the floor and exhaust near the ceiling, since warm air rises.
5) Get rid of as many bends, elbows or T's as possible, and get rid of as much of that cheapo coiled dryer ducting as possible. Both drastically reduce air flow. You should be using real duct, available in 4 foot lengths at most home improvement stores. The only time you should be using the flexible stuff is when the ducts are attached to something that might need to be moved, like a light.
6) I don't know how they get away with it, but the cheaper fans do not move the CFMs that they are advertised to. I've heard of one good fan outsucking two of the cheaper ones with supposed same CFMs. I like CanFan and Vortex. Vortex is the only brand in a grow op that will guarantee something for 10 years.

92.4 is not good. Transpiration can slow or stop above leaf temps of 80, which means the temp at the canopy should be 82 or less.

[OLDJIMMYBONES]

Damn JB ,
Those new fangled digi ballasts really do run cooler . I thought you'd get more drop than that for sure .

Even if you do get temps right in it - if you do get 6 good clones / plants in that hydro sys . that cabinets gonna explode about 1/2 way through bloom . Reapers got a 400hps in a cabinet about your size and he has a hard time cramming 2 plants in his . How much veg. time in your past grows ?

Crispi :stoned:

the ballasts runs prity cool but it has a built in fan so, it exhaust the a lot heat maby? but its cool to the touch

i veg for about 6 weeks,but this time i switched from ww (they almost double in size in flowerin) to nrv power plant

[stinkyattic]

1) Have everything possible outside your grow area. Ballasts and fans make heat.
2) Pull your air over your light instead of pushing. If your light isn't completely sealed the fan will push hot air out into your grow instead of sucking hot air out of your grow and pushing it outside.
3) Have a dedicated intake and exhaust just for the light and another for the grow.
4) Intake close to the floor and exhaust near the ceiling, since warm air rises.
5) Get rid of as many bends, elbows or T's as possible, and get rid of as much of that cheapo coiled dryer ducting as possible. Both drastically reduce air flow. You should be using real duct, available in 4 foot lengths at most home improvement stores. The only time you should be using the flexible stuff is when the ducts are attached to something that might need to be moved, like a light.
6) ...cheaper fans do not move the CFMs that they are advertised to. I've heard of one good fan outsucking two of the cheaper ones with supposed same CFMs. I like CanFan and Vortex.

^^good list from Opie. Cheaper fans are less tolerant of increased resistance from shit like bends in the line and turbulence. I also like CanFan.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the longer your run of exposed ducting in the space, the more surface area there is to RETURN the heat to the room through the thin uninsulated walls of the flexiduct.

Short, straight ductwork, suck don't blow, make sure the ROOM is exhausting too (if you only have one fan, leave the 'intake' end of the cooltube open to the room to serve as exhaust port too), insulate ductwork if you still have a lot of it exposed.

[OLDJIMMYBONES]

yea opie knows what it is..

but thanks everyone i got it down to a steady 84.7F so far so hopfully with a little more work i get get it at 80ish