Ideas / Comments / Suggestions wanted for growbox design (LOWCOST!)

[danish]

Ok so here is the basic idea of this project...

Lowcost growbox made from a hightower computer casing (allready have this)

Thinking 125CFL for veg / 125(250)HPS for flowering, covering the entire inside with tinfoil, make airventing work with air flow bottom to top with cooling/outtake directly from the lap end for heat reducing...

Basic idea is to scrog/lst 2x ???? under this in soil or some other medium which will not require hydro methods... acces is not a problem as an entire side can be taken off...

So suggestions, ideas, comments on the growbox and suggestions for a strain as well ?

danish Reviewed by danish on 07-24-2008. Ideas / Comments / Suggestions wanted for growbox design (LOWCOST!) Ok so here is the basic idea of this project... Lowcost growbox made from a hightower computer casing (allready have this) Thinking 125CFL for veg / 125(250)HPS for flowering, covering the entire inside with tinfoil, make airventing work with air flow bottom to top with cooling/outtake directly from the lap end for heat reducing... Basic idea is to scrog/lst 2x ???? under this in soil or some other medium which will not require hydro methods... acces is not a problem as an entire side Rating: 5

[texas grass]

i dont know how big a hightower pc case is, but if you want that much wattage you should search diy rubbermaid tubs and grow with one of those, you should have alittle more room with those,
but if not be careful with that high wattage in such a small place, you will need alot of ventilation

[danish]

Tunnel venting. With 2x130mm fans enough?

[danish]

After thinking about it stuff regarding this project, i will plan it good before i start it but as i have most of the parts its gonna happend soon...

So the basic airflow control is going to be rather annoying, this due the fact you want to let in less air then you let out ....

So 80mm intake in lower cabinet the same side as socket for bulb(s), and a 120mm for outtake in diagonal corner for outtake of heat/create airflow is what im thinking

for reflector due to cost im gonna go with tinfoil.

What im trying to figure out is what kind of potting system i want to use for soil/vulcanic stone (says so on bag) mixture of 1:1 after seeding them in jiffys ?

The socket will have a 125CFL for vegging and im considering wether to just switch from 6500k to 3500k and still use CFL for flowering ?

And for the strain im considering some lowryder or dwarf variety...

PS: nute levels coming up for "vulcanic stones" and meassures of casing is aprox. 50x80x120cm and yes im stoned so NOT gonna convert to inch.

I hope this is explanation enough for what i have in mind? Else please help me out

PS: texas thanks for the advice forgot all about looking into those things you said... its gonna keep me up all night now ...

[danish]

Ok so here is the thing about going more ghetto then a PC casing.

Im gonna try and build a little movable growbox which could fit 1 maybe plants in screened room... making a single or dual plant scrog and thereby control the total roomage and then apply lighting and ventilation with filter for it ?

any ideas for meassures as im trying to figure it out but i have NO IDEA about how much soil i would need for scrog+lst in a tiny box with only 1 wire coming out...

[magiccity445]

dude check out my grow it's as ghetto as ghetto gets

[lotusanm]

i heard thatwhite reflects better than aluminum. maybe im wrong but if i were you id get some computer paper instead to line your grow box with.

[RamblerGambler]

tinfoil is not the way to go, it doesn't reflect well and as an added bonus it creates heat spots. To quote justanotherbozo

hope this helps, good to see you doing some of the research yourself rather than thinking you can ask any little thing
keep up the good work and keep us posted, personally, i like lookin' at pitures, exspecially of da nekid girls! lol

"Foylon:

A more durable version of mylar, made of spun polyester fabric and reinforced with foil laminate. Foylon is resistant to most solutions, won't tear or fade, and can be wiped or washed clean.

A great solution for growers who are interested in long term use, and though it may be slightly more expensive than mylar, its durability will more than make up for its cost. It has the ability to reflect about 95% of the light and approximately 85% of the heat energy, so a good ventilation system should be used in conjunction with folyon.

A recommended method to attach Foylon to the walls would be using Velcro, as it makes taking it down for cleaning much easier nd reduces the risk of tearing, creasing or bending it. If this is used for your walls, making sure you get it flush with the wall with no pockets of air between it and the wall to prevent hotspots.

Mylar:

A highly reflective polyester film that comes in varying thickness, the most common being 1 and 2 mm thick. The 2mm thick mylar while not quite as durable as the foylon, is fairly rugged. The 1mm thick mylar tears fairly easily, so taking it down for cleaning is quite difficult without damaging it in the process. Both types of mylar are able to reflect approximately 92-97% reflective, giving it the potential to be more reflective than foylon, but because foylon is more easily cleaned without damaging it as well as it being harder to crease, foylon usually ends up being slightly more reflective. Important to note is that mylar reflects radiant heat energy just as well as foylon (around 85%), so proper ventilation is necessary if mylar is used in your grow room. Attaching this to walls can be done in a similar fashion as foylon, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room. The 1mm thick mylar stands a fair chance of being creased or ripped in the process unfortunately, even if Velcro is used to attach to the walls.

C3 anti-detection film:

A specialized type of mylar that exhibits the same properties as the 2mm thick mylar, but in addition to reflecting approximately 92-97% of the light, it also is 90% infrared proof, making your grow room all but invisible to IR scanning. This can also be attached in the same manner as foylon or mylar, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.

Flat white paint:

Self explanatory; a great option for large grow rooms or for people who are interested in a low maintenance wall. Flat white paint has the ability to reflect between 75-85% of the light, and does not create hotspots. Adding a fungicide is recommended when painting.

Glossy and eggshell whites not reflect light as efficiently as flat white. Semi-gloss paint for example, only has the ability to reflect between 55-60% of the light. Also important to remember when using paint is that any smears or blemishes on the surface take away from how reflective the wall is so care should be taken to avoid marking or staining the walls. Titanium white paint is very reflective; however it is usually only used on reflectors due to its high cost.

Elastomere paint (info by furun)

A rubberized roofing paint with 90% reflection. Good for growboxes. Mildew resistant. Highly reflective.

Kool Seal White Elastomeric Roof Coating ~ $15.00 (1 Gallon)

Ultra high reflectivity
Forms a rubber-like blanket that expands and contracts
Adheres to almost any surface (very good on wood and metal)
Available @ Lowe's Home Improvement: Buy Kitchen Cabinets, Paint, Appliances & Flooring

White/Black plastic (also known as panda plastic or "poly"):

"Poly" is useful if you are setting up a temporary grow room or donâ??t want to damage the walls. Poly is easily cleaned.

The purpose of the black side is to not allow any light to pass through the plastic, which ensures your dark cycle remains dark. The white side is 75-90% reflective. Choose a 6 "mill" thickness of poly for maximum light blockage and duribility.

If this plastic is put too close to the light, you will obviously melt it so be careful!. Panda plastic does not create hotspots. Poly can be attached to the walls by using carpenterâ??s nails or using tape glue or similar means. This can be used as a cheap alternative to mylar if painting your grow room is out of the question.

Polystyrene Foam Sheeting (more commonly known as Styrofoam):

This is excellent for harsh environment growrooms (your attic for example), provided you have a good ventilation system and a way to keep the temperatures from rising too high (an a/c unit or similar) as it is an excellent insulator.

It is also a great material for use in a temporary setup or for use as a "travelling reflector" on a light mover, where weight is a concern. It is approximately 75-85% light reflective so it is comparable to using a flat white paint. Foam will not create hot spots. Rigid foam can be purchased in sheets, and can be used as a free standing wall or can be taped, glued or nailed to the wall, the last generally being the most successful method.

Emergency Blankets:

These are ultra thin polyester blankets that are sold in most camping stores and are constructed of a single layer of polyester film that is covered with a layer of vapor deposited aluminum.

It is not very effective at reflecting light because it is so thin. Holding it between you and a light source, many small holes are noticed at the intersections of creases and the entire blanket is translucent to begin with, this coupled with the many creases that are in it when you purchase it takes away a significant amount of it reflectivity. It is very easily creased as well which also detracts from its ability to reflect light. And while it is reflects nearly 90% of radiant heat energy, it is only able to reflect around 70% of the light.

The largest advantage of using this type of material is that it is very cheap and therefore easily replaced. Emergency blankets can create hotspots if not attached flush to the wall so it is important that no air gaps exist between it and your supporting wall. The easiest way to attach this is to use tape (Aluminum or metal tape is recommended), as it tears very easily once it is cut or punctured.

Aluminum Foil:
Aluminum foil is no more than 55% reflective - if used, make sure that the dull side is the one that is used to reflect the light. When it becomes creased its reflectivity is even lower (around 35%.) It is also very dangerous to use because it creates hotspots easily, is electrically conductive, and is a fire hazard when it is in close contact with HID lighting. Attaching this to walls is a pain and usually using aluminum tape or glue is the best way. This should only be used as a last resort, and even then its usefulness is questionable."

[lotusanm]

what im thinking about doing for my next grow is just buying some matte white poster board and making a box out of it. just go to walmart its probably like super cheap there. o and what i did with this brow was i bought trash cans instead of pots. theyre like 2 bucks each. only thing id do different is buy white ones next time because i bought black ones and am realizing that white would be better. or if you drink a lot of like hawian punch use the bottles as pots when your done with them. just make sure you wash them goo before hand an punch a bunch of holes in the bottom. i just stick them on plates to keep the water from getting everywhere. o and im just using a 5 bulb lamp for my grow with cfls. it was available so im using it. i know i need more light but we use what we can get right. plus im going home soon so maybe ill snag another lamp. anyways be creative theres plenty of stuff around the house that can be used for growing.

[danish]

Thank for the inputs lotus.

But i must admit im a bit more of a project guy than you are i suppose, everyman has his own way.

Im building a little box with permanent netting for scrog
Then i fit 1x200w HPS with cooling and then i need some kind of flat charcoalfilter for the smell as i live in urban territory.

Same reason i cant pull ALOT of wattage as its monitored... so i have a maximum of 300w total... so ill hook up a lowjacked PSU 300w from a PC to run it, and then only have 1 wire from the box.
This means that during dark hours it can easily be moved