Rust - Black leaf spot mold help!

[criom]

im glad the odorsok works for you, it seemed like it had potential


distilled water may not help me but its all i have because last week they issued a "boil" warning for the tap water and im not about to pour that on my plants to give them ebola.


also ive been thinking about what you said regarding this not being a disease and being due to the conditions.

well there are 5 other plants in the same soil mix that have never suffered any symptoms like this or any problems whatsoever.


and you say serenade wont help. and yet...

its the only thing helping. literally the plant looks a million times better 8 hours after i spray with it. probably sooner but i try not to disturb anything for a while after.


so im not really sure if it is the coco now and a cal problem only. there is definitely something that is being killed off by the serenade in some of the pots that are effected.


so its not a fungus, but serenade is killing whatever it is.

*sigh..

[stinkyattic]

You MUST add calmag to distilled water. No choice on that. Or boil your tap water.

[criom]

screw tap water

im getting calmag today, found a quart for 10

will report back with results :blueknife:

[stinkyattic]

Awesome! That stuff is SO useful.

[Opie Yutts]

I probably wouldn't chime in here but I was asked to. You can't get much better advice than what you'll get from stinky. I disagree with the notion that you can't put a small plant in a big pot, but other than that I don't know what I can add. I've done a little experimenting lately, and the cuttings I've started in 3 gallon pots are doing much better than the ones I put in pint pots, and have been doing so from the beginning. I planted them about a month and half ago, and the ones in the bigger pots just now look like they might need their first drink. They are also about twice the size of the ones I put in the small containers. (Identical conditions otherwise.) It's about time to put the small plants into bigger containers, and I'm wishing I would have just started with big ones. Please note that I am in the minority here, but my experiences are real.

Other than that, here's what I do with my soil plants, and I can't recall ever having a failure except one baffling case in about 6 years.

I use the best quality potting soil I can reasonably find and add 20-30% perlite. For starting seedlings and cuttings, I'll often get soil designed specifically for that, or add about 10% vermiculite and/or peat for moisture retention. No fertilizer for about a month, depending on the vigor and variety of the plant. After 5 nodes have shown they should be able to handle some grow nutes at 1/8 or 1/4 strength. Gradually increase during each feeding to full strength. Thoroughly saturate the soil at planting with nothing but water and a few drops of B1 supplement PH'd to 6.6-6.9. PH is important, but most potting soil should be close enough at the start. When I water, I feed about every other time. I try to look at my plants at least once per day, and I only water if I notice the beginning of wilt. It's important your soil completely dries out between waterings. Air is just as important in the root zone as water. Ventilation is also important, but not critical how it's done. Just make sure air is exchanged, and your foliage gently rustles in a breeze at least some of the time, more is better. Top once or twice if you want em bushier.

In summary: Do what stinky says.

[stinkyattic]

I've been thinking about why Serenade would help with a Ca lockout. And I came to this possible conclusion:
Since Serenade is packaged as a LIVE culture of B. subtilis, it stands to reason that it is packaged in a medium that is ideal for their survival 'on the shelf'. This very likely includes an agent to buffer pH in the range that they like best, which, since they are a soil bacterium, would be at the same level your plants like in soil.
Just a hunch.

[criom]

Opie - thank you for your comments, have saved them in an everlong text file of tips i steal from various forums. good advice

attic- i think you may be right about the ph, i just gave up spraying them with serenade because it would be hopeless to keep doing that all the way through the veg and flower cycle.

i ended up getting calmag plus but before i even watered them with that they already stopped rusting and spotting.

maybe the rootzone finally dealt with the extra coco in the soil and recovered? i dont know but its a good thing to have anyway.

could i have used unsulphered molasses instead of calmag to help with this issue? im just asking in case someone else poor reads this and has to try some off the grocery shelf 2$ solutions.


while i was buying the calmag + the local shop guys gave me a free 4 oz bottle of mayan microzyme. im bubbling it right now with the molasses i bought anyway and im sure this will also help alot with any ph/coco problems going on down there.

since there were no directions on the bottle i called Humboldt to get some help and they said serenade contains over 700 strains of B. subtilis and that if i wanted i could spray with mayan one week and serenade the next as foliar or soil topping and they would get along just fine and probably devour anything that wasnt supposed to be there.

neway the two plants that were doing the worst have now recovered mostly with some cabbage looking leaf sets, im assuming thats due to the serenade spraying but at least its growing.

have either of you ever used mayan microzyme, possibly with calmag +?

im curious as to what effect it has and there isnt a ton of information out about it except for alot of people saying they are going to try it someday.


thx for the help again!
:1baa:

[stinkyattic]

I've never run the Mayan. The name 'microzyme' suggests it is a combintation of enzymes and soil beneficials- interesting. I have been happy with ALL beneficials that I have used. After all, they are tough to fuck up!

The molasses won't make a substitute for a mineral supplement (calmag, silica blast, epsom salts, etc) but does contain not only iron and potassium, but also helps create a healthy environment for soil beneficials, and adds bulk and resin to maturing plants. Use it at 1 tablespoon per gallon any time you remember to, lol.

[criom]

Content in colonies per milliliter:
Plate count of aerobic bacteria and anerobic bacteria: a minimum of 300,000 CFU/ml. for each.

Microorganisms:
Primary: Azotobacter vinelandii and Clostridium pasteurianum.
Mayan MicroZyme is a 100% organic and ecologically safe bacterial-enzymatic complex with 24 species of soil microorganisms that will increase fertility while providing vital nutrients to all types of plants and crops.


only reason i mentioned molasses as a substitute is because it says on the back of the bottle that it contains 3% of calcium and 5% of magnessium.



i used to add like 3 tablespoons per gallon throughout the entire grow but that was a different strain and i dont want to fuck this up so ill prolly wait until flowering for the resin bulk like you say.


sort of unrelated: im using 1.5 gallon square pots now (7.5x7.5x8.5) and am wondering if i will need to repot them at all.
im going to go scrog without LSTing and the total plant height will probably be just over a foot, but intertwined with the screen of course.

i keep reading 1 foot per gallon, or 1 gallon per month, or 1 gallon per whatever.

whats your reccomendation in this case?


also: im still working on getting a water filter (60$ crystal quest one) but in the meantime is it faster to evaporate chlorine in a large bucket or just a normal gallon jug?
as in does the amount of surface area of the water speed up or help the chlorine evaporation at all or am i just asking for bugs to go swimming and die in a algae pond.

[stinkyattic]

Surface area is related to speed of any type of evap- but remember that city water is treated with chloramine and you aren't guaranteed to get it all out. Try bubbling it with an airstone, and also putting it in a warm place or in the sunlight. That should help, if anything would.

My recommendation for potting-up is spelled out in a sticky at the top of the 'basic' section called 'the importance of a continuous canopy' and the embedded link to a FAQ thread called 'why I should re-pot my plant'.

Where the heck did you find those pots? I'm looking for that EXACT pot!!! (my jealousy is eating me alive!!!)