Little curly bushy plants need a little help :)

[Rusty Trichome]

Well...a slightly high ph (over 7.2ish, I believe) or slightly low ph (6.2ish, I think, lol) can stress the roots, making nutrient uptake more difficult, as it tries to deal with the imbalance. (results in nute lock-out)

As time rolls on, the ph in peat based soil mixes tend to go south, but unless re-using your soil it should be ok for a season. I don't usually have problems, but I do flush regularly.

[Weedhound]

Oh I completely agree.....I love ph myself and love to test it and adjust it and do all sorts of cool things with it. And yep....it will certainly affect your nute uptake which is why adding more and more nutes doesn't help and may even hurt.

Sounds to me like Rusty has your back jessie. :thumbsup:

[jessejames12345]

OK team , ...heres where Im at...They still look like they got the crap kick out'em ...OUCH

Almost ALL of the main leaves are covered in dark brown burn, most of the plant has an overall 'yellowish' appearance, ....

Yea dosent get much worse then that

They DID seem to perk up after the flush a few days ago, and I dont THINK that the damage is spreading, ...but not totatly sure , they just look sooo bad compared to their sis's

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[jessejames12345]

Yea, ...on 2 of the BEST plants so far,...getting out the tweezers...this is shitty

[jessejames12345]

OK so i pulled around 5 nann's of of one plants, and 2-3 off another. None of the other plants are showing any from what I can tell, ...argggg

I all so pulled out about 5 pre-me seeds between the 2 plants that were right around where the nanns were.

So , now what ? Im only about 2 weeks from harvest i guess.

[Rusty Trichome]

Bummer. Likely it's from earlier nute and or heat stresses. Kinda looks like potassium defeciency with a bit of heat stress, but my guess would be nute lockout in general. Takes a couple of days to see improvement after a flush, so try to be patient.

Which plants have the nanners? What's the temp near the top of your canopy? If problem is from an external source, determining this sometimes helps with troubleshooting. ie: If it's the ones in front, could be a light leak. If it's the ones in back or in a dead-zone that collects heat, might be a lack of air circulation problem. If it's the ones closest to light, might still be a heat issue.


Would keep picking, and look for signs of improvement in overall health. With all these changes, have you been letting the soil dry between flushing and watering? Through all this the roots still need fresh air, and overwatering can accelerate problems you're trying to fix. (root rot)

[jessejames12345]

I did lower the light a bit a few days back, so I'll double check the canopy temps.

Well heres where I admit my BADDDDD grower mistake

I never bought a light timer, just figured I could plug in at 8;00pm and unplug at 8;00am

WELL 8;00 would sometimes turn in to 8;15 , or 8;10, ans then 8;15 in the morning, ect ect. I never figured that a 15 minutes here and there would make that much of a deal ?
COULD this be a hermi maker?

THANKS, oh and from this moment on, the timer is pluged in now....better late then never..:stoned:

[Rusty Trichome]

<DOH>

Yup, could be one source of your nanners problem, but already stressed plants respond fairly quickly to additional stresses. Hopefully, now you've got 'em on the right track you'll see some improvements. A few seeds isn't a catastrophe, but would be vigilant with the nanners. (they occationally hide in the buds, too)

Some in here freak, but I'd like to take this opportunity to point-out that if you get any pollen releases, the seeds will be female. Personally, if it's likely the nanners were a result of external stresses and not from poor genetics, I'd grow them out if they are mature enough to do so. Especially if they are from a particularly nice plant. There are many methods of making femmed seeds, and to my knowledge, each of them require some form of stress to induce the nanners. (including over-ripening, light poisoning, certain chemicals...)

This is a prime example of why all info is necessary to help. It's a good idea to fess-up if you want quick, accurate responses, lol. Best not to let Pride cometh before the nanners...

If you were to go to an auto repair shop, and all you tell them is that your car won't start, they can give you a list of possible causes, but without all of the facts, the list of fixes would be a long one, and likely costly.
But if you were to go into that shop and tell them your car won't start, but yesterday you accidentally filled the gas tank with (ph'd)water, likely they could diagnose the problem on the first try. (if not, would find another auto shop)

Anyway, let us know what happens from here.:thumbsup:

[jessejames12345]

ok, pride checked at the door

Found a small light leak as well, and covered that last night.

Found a few more nans last night on one plant, the others seem clear, for now. I am looking forward to having a few seeds of this one plant its really an ass kicker !

Ill keep you posted , 2 weeks till harvest , maybe, I'm gonna really watch tricomes on them and harvest at least 20% amber. I have anxiety disorder and a nice heavy indica makes everything right

[wayward]

this thread is a great example why putting powder fert in an adequate amount mixed in the potting soil is a great way to go. No more guess work. Very little chance for deficiencies or overferting. All you do is water the plants when the soil is dry. Jesse, next time your potting plants, get a box of a fert like Foxfarm or Whitney Farms Organic powder fert. You could try Dr. Earth too, but I think the prices on this Effectnet (below) website are expensive. I used these webpages here just to show you what to look for.
Dr. Earth Organic Fertilizer Products

you could get the blue box on the right at a local store:
Whitney Farms : The Scotts Miracle-Gro Company :

With these ferts I'd use 5 gallon buckets putting about half to two-thirds cup of powder fert in the lower half of the bucket along with potting soil, then fill the remainder of the bucket with potting soil and mix in about half cup of powder fert. You can get some Maxicrop seaweed powder and mix a teaspoon or so into the BOTTOM half of the soil if you want. That's all you should need for your next grow. It sounds simple and it is simple. This will take alot of guess work out of your next grow. Just be sure not to use a potting soil full of nutes, like Miracle Grow.

For Foxfarm's fert, you can look here to see what the packages are like.
FoxFarm Soil & Fertilizer Company
I use the last one, Fruit and Flower 5-8-4 and it's great. You can use the all purpose if you want but I would get Fruit if you can find it. The difference in these ferts tends to be what the source of nutes is, like Whitney Farms uses chicken shit and Foxfarm uses bat shit if I recall correctly. There are microbes (bacteria) included in each box to break the fert down so the plants can use the nutes. this is probably the most important element in these ferts. If you want a very fast grow time, you need to look at using chemical ferts that are complete, i.e., have alot of nutes in them and dissolve easily in water. The powders do not dissolve easily, thus bacteria has to use some time to break the stuff down but it will work for you just fine if you can wait for your plants to grow. Organic ferts really are the way to go. You'll get better results.
I understand that some here will argue with what I've posted here but so be it. What I've written works for me, so I put it here.
On your current problem, I think Rusty is right about overferting, especially foliar, which should only be used to quickly correct a deficiency and no more than a couple times. I don't know if flushing your soil is going to help as the problem is directly at the leaves, and apparently not in the soil. You can try flushing the soil but there's no guarantee it will help. Looks like just stopping the foliar and letting some time pass, and maybe spraying the leaves with plain water is the thing to do.