First grow indoor growbox

[Cede2Weed]

Well, I am definitely not a pro, but I think LST is probably the easiest. There are several other techniques involving harming the plant so it grows back stronger on the boards here. A lot to choose from. I come up with all kinds of grandiose plans, but in reality I will probably just top and/or lst, but the others, especially SCROG are very compelling. Ultimately, I just want to get the most buds out of my space and lights possible without jeopardizing my grow.
Didn't mean to jack your thread. Whatever you do, I will be following closely.

[BlazedinBA]

dont worry cede your not jacking my thread, at least someones responding to all my questions! lol so i mean thanks for all the info....i watered them yesterday and my friend and i are considering LST'ing 2 and topping 2 tonight, watever the outcome ill post some pics tomorrow. thanks for following comments are welcome. peace:jointsmile:

[BlazedinBA]

ok, so my friend and i decided to try the LST and topping, we only did 1 on each, heres a few better pics of the box,fan,plants, etc....ill post the LST n topped plants after these...

pic1-growbox put together(light shining through the top is where the fan is)
pic2-plants 1&2 pre-LST/topp
pic3/4- the bottom half of the box with plants inside...it has an extra cfl in the middle so a total of 7cfls at a time (in pic 3 if u look closely you can see the other fan on the far side of the box with black tape all around it lol)
pic5- close up of fan looking into the box..


tell me wat you all think...thanks:rastasmoke:

[BlazedinBA]

heres some pics of us LST'ing the plant...

pic1-close up of the tied down plant at 90degrees
pic2-cant really see it but the plant that we topped...ill show a pic of the results after the weekend...hopefully it was successful!:thumbsup:
pic3-this is my friends cat petuh, hes the man...petuh loves :stoned: haha
pic4- pic of plant before the LST with string supporting the stem
pic5- the plant at 90 degrees after the LST...

wat does everyone think? thanks for checking it out:jointsmile:

[daihashi]

is that foil you have there in your grow area? It looks like it from the pictures but I really can't tell. If so get rid of it and just paint the inside white or line it with bright flat white paper instead. Foil creates hot spots and can be a problem/stressor for plants.

[BlazedinBA]

yea i read that white paint is better than foil but i didnt know foil could cause stress/kill the plant...thanks for the advice...ill post some pics of the plant i LST'd n topped sometime next week after 420:stoned: :abduct:

[frostymcfailure]

does this foil rule apply to mylar too?

[BlazedinBA]

hey guys i gotta few questions about my babies, im also gonna post this in the infirmary section...but one of my plants fan leaves tips are starting to turn yellow, anyone know wat the problem could be? theres some pics below of it

also, this is my first time growing and everything so i barely know anything about ferts, nutes, etc. my plants started off on 18:6 with 6 cfl's and they were germinated and planted a month and a half ago...im thinking about switching to 12/12 in two weeks for flowering (because i have no where to put them in a few months) but i was wondering if anyone in here could give me a schedule of nutes or ferts or w/e...and a preferance on wat brand and everything...any input would be great since im such a noob! lol...thanks!:smokin:

[BlazedinBA]

today we are starting day1 in flowering of our babies! i will post some ppics prolly next week or so to show everyone how there doing

[justanotherbozo]

hope this helps, good to see you doing some of the research yourself rather than thinking you can ask any little thing
keep up the good work and keep us posted, personally, i like lookin' at pitures, exspecially of da nekid girls! lol

"Foylon:

A more durable version of mylar, made of spun polyester fabric and reinforced with foil laminate. Foylon is resistant to most solutions, won't tear or fade, and can be wiped or washed clean.

A great solution for growers who are interested in long term use, and though it may be slightly more expensive than mylar, its durability will more than make up for its cost. It has the ability to reflect about 95% of the light and approximately 85% of the heat energy, so a good ventilation system should be used in conjunction with folyon.

A recommended method to attach Foylon to the walls would be using Velcro, as it makes taking it down for cleaning much easier nd reduces the risk of tearing, creasing or bending it. If this is used for your walls, making sure you get it flush with the wall with no pockets of air between it and the wall to prevent hotspots.

Mylar:

A highly reflective polyester film that comes in varying thickness, the most common being 1 and 2 mm thick. The 2mm thick mylar while not quite as durable as the foylon, is fairly rugged. The 1mm thick mylar tears fairly easily, so taking it down for cleaning is quite difficult without damaging it in the process. Both types of mylar are able to reflect approximately 92-97% reflective, giving it the potential to be more reflective than foylon, but because foylon is more easily cleaned without damaging it as well as it being harder to crease, foylon usually ends up being slightly more reflective. Important to note is that mylar reflects radiant heat energy just as well as foylon (around 85%), so proper ventilation is necessary if mylar is used in your grow room. Attaching this to walls can be done in a similar fashion as foylon, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room. The 1mm thick mylar stands a fair chance of being creased or ripped in the process unfortunately, even if Velcro is used to attach to the walls.

C3 anti-detection film:

A specialized type of mylar that exhibits the same properties as the 2mm thick mylar, but in addition to reflecting approximately 92-97% of the light, it also is 90% infrared proof, making your grow room all but invisible to IR scanning. This can also be attached in the same manner as foylon or mylar, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.

Flat white paint:

Self explanatory; a great option for large grow rooms or for people who are interested in a low maintenance wall. Flat white paint has the ability to reflect between 75-85% of the light, and does not create hotspots. Adding a fungicide is recommended when painting.

Glossy and eggshell whites not reflect light as efficiently as flat white. Semi-gloss paint for example, only has the ability to reflect between 55-60% of the light. Also important to remember when using paint is that any smears or blemishes on the surface take away from how reflective the wall is so care should be taken to avoid marking or staining the walls. Titanium white paint is very reflective; however it is usually only used on reflectors due to its high cost.

Elastomere paint (info by furun)

A rubberized roofing paint with 90% reflection. Good for growboxes. Mildew resistant. Highly reflective.

Kool Seal White Elastomeric Roof Coating ~ $15.00 (1 Gallon)

Ultra high reflectivity
Forms a rubber-like blanket that expands and contracts
Adheres to almost any surface (very good on wood and metal)
Available @ Lowe's Home Improvement: Buy Kitchen Cabinets, Paint, Appliances & Flooring

White/Black plastic (also known as panda plastic or "poly"):

"Poly" is useful if you are setting up a temporary grow room or donâ??t want to damage the walls. Poly is easily cleaned.

The purpose of the black side is to not allow any light to pass through the plastic, which ensures your dark cycle remains dark. The white side is 75-90% reflective. Choose a 6 "mill" thickness of poly for maximum light blockage and duribility.

If this plastic is put too close to the light, you will obviously melt it so be careful!. Panda plastic does not create hotspots. Poly can be attached to the walls by using carpenterâ??s nails or using tape glue or similar means. This can be used as a cheap alternative to mylar if painting your grow room is out of the question.

Polystyrene Foam Sheeting (more commonly known as Styrofoam):

This is excellent for harsh environment growrooms (your attic for example), provided you have a good ventilation system and a way to keep the temperatures from rising too high (an a/c unit or similar) as it is an excellent insulator.

It is also a great material for use in a temporary setup or for use as a "travelling reflector" on a light mover, where weight is a concern. It is approximately 75-85% light reflective so it is comparable to using a flat white paint. Foam will not create hot spots. Rigid foam can be purchased in sheets, and can be used as a free standing wall or can be taped, glued or nailed to the wall, the last generally being the most successful method.

Emergency Blankets:

These are ultra thin polyester blankets that are sold in most camping stores and are constructed of a single layer of polyester film that is covered with a layer of vapor deposited aluminum.

It is not very effective at reflecting light because it is so thin. Holding it between you and a light source, many small holes are noticed at the intersections of creases and the entire blanket is translucent to begin with, this coupled with the many creases that are in it when you purchase it takes away a significant amount of it reflectivity. It is very easily creased as well which also detracts from its ability to reflect light. And while it is reflects nearly 90% of radiant heat energy, it is only able to reflect around 70% of the light.

The largest advantage of using this type of material is that it is very cheap and therefore easily replaced. Emergency blankets can create hotspots if not attached flush to the wall so it is important that no air gaps exist between it and your supporting wall. The easiest way to attach this is to use tape (Aluminum or metal tape is recommended), as it tears very easily once it is cut or punctured.

Aluminum Foil:
Aluminum foil is no more than 55% reflective - if used, make sure that the dull side is the one that is used to reflect the light. When it becomes creased its reflectivity is even lower (around 35%.) It is also very dangerous to use because it creates hotspots easily, is electrically conductive, and is a fire hazard when it is in close contact with HID lighting. Attaching this to walls is a pain and usually using aluminum tape or glue is the best way. This should only be used as a last resort, and even then its usefulness is questionable."