Yellowing question

[sensilights]

Hello I uh found these pictures on the internet somewhere but i was wondering if y'all might be able to tell whats wrong...i have an idea that it might be a possible zinc toxicity? and heat stress on the second one?
anyways the first 4 are the same plant
the next 3 are a different plant 2 of the pictures show the results 4 days after a FIM that i think may have missed *if thats possible* lol
Any help is appreciated

the last 2 pics will be in a second post

sensilights Reviewed by sensilights on 03-21-2008. Yellowing question Hello I uh found these pictures on the internet somewhere but i was wondering if y'all might be able to tell whats wrong...i have an idea that it might be a possible zinc toxicity? and heat stress on the second one? anyways the first 4 are the same plant the next 3 are a different plant 2 of the pictures show the results 4 days after a FIM that i think may have missed *if thats possible* lol Any help is appreciated :) the last 2 pics will be in a second post :) Rating: 5

[sensilights]

other pics

[Mr. Clandestine]

I really doubt zinc toxicity is your problem. It'd be a good idea to fill this out: Troubleshooting form That'll give people a good idea what you're working with, and what might be causing the problems. Pic#3 looks N deficient, but before you go adding more Nitrogen, you'll want to know if anything else may be causing lockout, like unstable pH, salt buildup, or the like.

[Weedhound]

Mr C he has to track down whoever actually took those photos he found and ask them ALL those questions.....

[Mr. Clandestine]

Mr C he has to track down whoever actually took those photos he found and ask them ALL those questions.....

LOL, ah yes.

Sensi- Get your 'friend' or anonymous internet poster to fill out the troubleshooting form for his, *ahem* 'tomatoes', and we'll be glad to lend 'him or her' a hand! :jointsmile:

[sensilights]

lol k here we go
-indoor or outdoor indoor

-soil, soilless, or hydroponic soil

-specific medium potting soil

-Soil type/brand scotts .3 .3 .3 potting soil

-Hydro/aero/soilless system type

-Anything you have added to the soil lil bit of peat from the jiffy pellets

-Soil pH 6.8

-Water source softened tap

-Water pH 7.4

-Age of plant 30 days

-Type of fertilizer Espoma Plant Tone

-Rate of application 1.5 tsp mixed into soil for plant 1 1 tsp
top dressed for plant 2

-Lighting source and distance from plant 6x 26w 6500k CFLs around 8-12" above

-Temperature (both day and night if you are running a dark period)day around 82 F night around 76 F

-% Relative humidity 45-55%

-Lighting schedule 16-8

-Type of ventilation your room has rubbermaid box with a 4" inline vent fan attached to a carbon filter with the intake on the top of the box to pull the hot air down into the fan

[Mr. Clandestine]

A lot of water softeners add fairly high amounts of sodium that can be harmful to the plant, and many of them also remove calcium and magnesium from the water... both of which are essential nutrients. I'd do a light soil flush with pH'ed (preferably regular tap water), or distilled/RO water with CalMag added. Afterwards, give them a light feeding with a complete (and water soluble) fertilizer. Get yourself a quality fertilizer that's higher in nitrogen than in phosphorus and potassium to use if the yellowing worsens. Start with very diluted feedings (only 1/4-1/2 of the recommended strength) and work your way up from there until you start seeing a difference. It would also be a good idea to check and make sure the most badly affected plants haven't become rootbound in their pots. If they have, repot them into larger containers with fresh soil and preferably some extra perlite. Scott's soil is OK for growing, but it's not ideal with the time-released fertilizers and moisture retaining agents. Cutting with extra perlite will greatly enhance the drainage of the soil.

Your Epsoma fertilizer is a good soil amendment, but you'll periodically need to supplement with soluble fertilizers that have either been depleted by the roots, or haven't yet had a chance to break down. I've never used this particular fertilizer, but I have one of their similar products that contained mycorrhizae/beneficial bacteria, and had great results with it. It also had a similar NPK to your Plant Tone, and the plants really seemed to love it.

Also, warm air rises... so it might be a better idea to pull your cooler intake air in from the bottom of your box, and exhaust out the top. If you're able to do so, that is. Try to keep your 'daytime' temps below 80F for best results.

[sensilights]

Thanks Mr C! I'll update in a day or two

[sensilights]

Well almost 72 hours after the flush it looks like color is returning...the pale green is *at least it looks like* starting to turn darker again...will update with pics soon


So...Thanks for the help :thumbsup:

[sensilights]

BTW the flush was done with melted snow which was boiled *to kill any kind of baddie that might lurk there* then allowed to cool to room temperature. Around a gallon was used for a 4"x4"x4" pot. The other gallon or so of melted/boiled/cooled snow *with just a few drops of palmolive in it*is now being used to water them and they look just dandy