Questions on some products

[daihashi]

I'm trying to plan my grow room redesign coming soon after this flowering phase finishes and I was wondering if anyone has insight on the following products:

Odor Sok: these are filters that are much lighter than conventional carbon scrubbers. They are made with fabric made out of virgin activated carbon as opposed to being filled with the carbon pellets.

I was curious how well do these flow and how well do they filter out the odor?

SolarMax 400watt MH conversion bulb: These are normal conversion bulbs that work in hps ballasts. What makes this one interesting is it's color temperature rating. It is rated at 7200 Kelvin.

As we all know blue spectrum light is great for vegetative growth and to create shorter/bushier plants in the 5500K - 6500K range, but was curious how something ultra blue like this bulb rated at 7200K would do to plants.

Store bought 6" Cool Tube: One thing that concerns me is airflow blockage. Reason being is that I want to try to cool my tube as well as pull through a carbon scrubber with a 6" fan rated at 450cfm. 4" pyrex bake tubes look to be too small and would seem quite restrictive. My main concern is how restrictive the socket / 400 watt bulb is going to be in a 6" cool tube setup with it's own passive intake and a 6" 450cfm inline fan that is sucking/blowing through a carbon scrubber.

How well does a cool tube actually cool vs an aircooled hood?

Insulated air ducting vs non insulated: Would it be worth paying double the price for insulated flexible air ducting as opposed to non insulated. I'm not sure if the amount of heat lost from the ducting into the cabinet atmosphere is enough to warrant the use of insulated ducting vs non insulated. Input from anyone would be appreciated. (fyi: Insulated is about $20-25 for a 6" 25ft length of ducting, non insulated is about $10-15)

Panda Film/Black&white Poly vinyl: What are the benefits of using this as opposed to sealing my plywood and 2x2 made cabinet with insulating foam and then painting everything with flat white paint? I know the effects are essentially the same but just wanted to hear where it would be beneficial to have panda film instead of just painted walls.

Just so everyone knows I searched around and got some hits but nothing that addressed my concerns. So any input would be helpful.

daihashi Reviewed by daihashi on 03-19-2008. Questions on some products I'm trying to plan my grow room redesign coming soon after this flowering phase finishes and I was wondering if anyone has insight on the following products: Odor Sok: these are filters that are much lighter than conventional carbon scrubbers. They are made with fabric made out of virgin activated carbon as opposed to being filled with the carbon pellets. I was curious how well do these flow and how well do they filter out the odor? SolarMax 400watt MH conversion bulb: These are normal Rating: 5

[stinkyattic]

Comments...
Panda film is real nice if you are building a 'disposable growroom'. It's durable enough to be used- and even RE-USED- as a wall material! In a cabinet, I'd skip the insulation- you WANT heat loss!- and go with flat white paint. RE-paint if it gets grubby looking. Exhaust the paint fumes well before introducing plants- get the temps up HIGH to outgas the fresh paint faster.

Odorsoks are neat. Yes, even with a restrictive cooling setup on that 400+cfm fan you can still run one. I think it's in the 200cfm range to work right. Plus they are re-usable, and when you finally give up on them, they crumple up small and fit in the trash. I don't have a huge odor problem at this time of year when temps are lower, but that's my scrubber of choice.

For the LENGTH of ducting in your cabinet, choose ins vs non- insulated. If a lot is exposed, go with insulated, or wrap it in that mylar bubble wrappy looking stuff.

Other stuff I've got no input sorry.

[daihashi]

Comments...
Odorsoks are neat. Yes, even with a restrictive cooling setup on that 400+cfm fan you can still run one. I think it's in the 200cfm range to work right. Plus they are re-usable, and when you finally give up on them, they crumple up small and fit in the trash. I don't have a huge odor problem at this time of year when temps are lower, but that's my scrubber of choice.

For the LENGTH of ducting in your cabinet, choose ins vs non- insulated. If a lot is exposed, go with insulated, or wrap it in that mylar bubble wrappy looking stuff.

Other stuff I've got no input sorry.

That is my primary concern. I am trying to get away with running 1 6" inline 450cfm fan with a cool tube pulling or pushing through an odor sock.

I would have a passive 6" intake on 1 side with ducting leading to the cool tube socket end. Right where the ducting and cool tube meet I would have a y duct adapter with a reducer or a vent grill on the opening of the duct adapter to the room (to create restriction so the passive intake becomes the preferred source of outside air and not the room air, but it still allows some room venting for air circulation as well as odor control.).

On the other end would be more ducting, to a 6" fan either pulling through or pushing through the odor sok.

I've never used an inline fan before so I guess most of my concern comes from I'm not sure how hard they can push/pull when restricted. I know traditional fans move next to no air when you put something in front or behind them.

I wish I could see one in use. I think this would answer alot of questions for me.


edit: I should note that I'm also confused on if, for example, a 6" odor sok flows at about 450cfm, or if you would need 450cfm to be able to utilize it. I think it's the previous but their website isn't very clear. Figured someone with actual expierence with it could give insight on that part.

[grey1223]

I would use the fan and filter this way:

Filter first, then fan, then ducting thru light. You will be pushing filtered air thru your light. The cfm rating of your filter usually means max airflow. If your fan pushes more air or makes more noise than you like just add a rheostat and you can adjust airflow.

[stinkyattic]

Blowers are most effective when placed at the 'out' end so they are pulling air. I'd set it up like this:
Filter -> light hood -> ducting -> blower -> short bit of ducting to reduce noise
or
light hood -> ducting -> blower -> filter

[grey1223]

This is sometimes a confusing issue. Generally we buy two types of fans: blowers - like the squirrel cage type push better than they pull. In line fans pull better than they push. So, if it's an inline fan the filter should be first. If a blower, the filter should be last. I hope this helps to clearify the differences between to two.

[JeffersonBud]

That light should work great. I have heard of a 14000k bulb that is awesome for veg. 7200k HID is awesome!

[the image reaper]

I bought the insulated 6" tubing ... I wound up tearing the insulation off, it is just too bulky that way ... insulation takes up a lotta room, and temps haven't suffered ... :smokin:

[daihashi]

Thanks guys, it's great to get additional input on my product questions that weren't answered originally when I posted this.

Thanks :thumbsup: