White Rhino YELLOWING LEAVES

[slayer34ny]

Naturally I am a little worried, so I decided to post this, in hopes of some feedback.

Have 4 White Rhino ladies.....soil grow w/ 400w HPS in my walk-in closet. Started flowering.....and the first oddity I noticed is it tool a good 2 weeks for pestils to show on a 12/12 cycle (from 20/4) which is longer than any strain I have ever grown. Used FoxFarm Open Sesame (1 tsp to a gallon every other watering) and water every other day, 1 1/2 gallons for 4 plants. Everythiong seemed great. Last week (week 4) I noticed a few fan leaves on each plant but the littlest lady (3 out of 4) are yellowing and some at the bottom of the lowest shoots (pics included). Week 5 the second node fan leaves have yellowed (cut 1st stage ones off last week) abd a fewer lower shoot leaves are as well, but i have not cut them yet. I have started FoxFarm BeastieBloomz on week 5 and am continuing on w/ feeding schedule. I added 2 pinches of epsom salt today as it is my first thought that it may somehow be the Mag level.

I am aware of this happening at the end of flowering cycle, but not in the middle. But it is only 1/2 wat through and I have all white pestils(none orange) and the groth and bud stack looks on pace. I am thinking this is a trait of the rhino....but I AM STILL A LITTLR WORRIED Grow NL, Crystal, Early Misty and a friens skunk breed. About my 6th grow and am still considering myself a noob.

If it matters at week 1 I upgraded from a 250w hps to a 400w hps in hopes of using a MH conversion bulb for the first time in Veg, but I increased the airflow to accomodate for extra heat. Hope this wasent a mistake. THANKS FOR ANY HELP OR INSIGHT U CAN OFFER.

slayer34ny Reviewed by slayer34ny on 03-10-2008. White Rhino YELLOWING LEAVES Naturally I am a little worried, so I decided to post this, in hopes of some feedback. Have 4 White Rhino ladies.....soil grow w/ 400w HPS in my walk-in closet. Started flowering.....and the first oddity I noticed is it tool a good 2 weeks for pestils to show on a 12/12 cycle (from 20/4) which is longer than any strain I have ever grown. Used FoxFarm Open Sesame (1 tsp to a gallon every other watering) and water every other day, 1 1/2 gallons for 4 plants. Everythiong seemed great. Last week Rating: 5

[slayer34ny]

Some more pics in case needed. 4 plants...pics numberd so....3 or 4 pics of each plant

[Mr. Clandestine]

Sure nothing is being locked out by your pH? I've grown White Rhino a couple of times, and I really don't think what you're showing is the typical nitrogen deficiency. Also, how long have they been in those pots?

[slayer34ny]

Transplanted from these at switch to 12/12. Soil is FoxFarm "ocean Forrest". As a noob....lol...I dont know how I lock out Ph......I do not feed plant in veg, never have...was told soil will feed if I transplant for flowering cycle and use Nutes only in flowering. Only straight water in veg...then nutes every other watering as directed by FoxFarm

And TYVM for the help

[Mr. Clandestine]

I dont know how I lock out Ph

Using water from a source that's too alkaline or acidic will also influence the pH of your soil. It may not be pH related at all, but just to be on the safe side, try to get a reading on the water you're using and the soil. Obviously, you'll need to know the pH from the water source before you test the runoff. You can get a liquid test kit from most gardening centers at Walmart, Lowe's, etc. They only cost a few bucks.

After you've determined that, fill out as many answers to these questions as you can possibly list from our Troubleshooting Form:

-indoor or outdoor
-soil, soilless, or hydroponic
-specific medium
-Soil type/brand
-Hydro/aero/soilless system type
-Anything you have added to the soil
-Soil pH
-Water source
-Water pH
-Age of plant
-Type of fertilizer
-Rate of application
-Lighting source and distance from plant
-Temperature (both day and night if you are running a dark period)
-% Relative humidity
-Lighting schedule
-Type of ventilation your room has

I'm not the best at diagnosing deficiencies, so I'll gladly hand it off to someone more qualified. It may take another day or so before one of our green-thumb members or mods show up, but don't worry, they'll show. And having the information listed above filled out to the best of your ability will really give them a better idea about what's ailing ya.

[stinkyattic]

IMO, that plant is actually pretty healthy, with a couple issues.
What I see:
-You just transplanted so the rootbound condition that you probably had before judging by the downturned leaf edges and tips visible on some leaves is taken care of.
-Yellow leaves can be caused also by insufficient light, and you just upgraded.
-Time to start feeding... that's a hungry, nitrogen deficient plant. Since you are only in the first couple weeks of flower, you can feed a grow fert safely. You DO need a complete fertilizer with micros, and be certain that your soil runoff pH reads between 6.3 and 6.8. Give a 'grow' fert or your bloom fert plus a weak dose of fish emulsion until the end of week 2 of flowering to keep that yellow from spreading this early in the game.
You rventilation is correct.
You will need a much larger pot in about 3 weeks, as SOON as your roots have filled that one, so be prepared for that. One gallon per foot of main stem is the minimum.

[slayer34ny]

Thanks for the reply. The one thing I am confused about it that I am going into the 5th week of flowering, not my second,,,,so my plants have been in those containers for about 4 weeks. I have yet to get a Ph meter, but i will tommarow. The plants werent really that rootbound when I trans them. Top leaves are acctually sticking out streaight...no drooping...that pic was just after the lights came on. The only noticable probs are at the bottom 1st nodes shoot leaves...and the first three sets of fan leaves (1st 3 nodes). One of the plants shows NO yellow and one shows very little. I am wondering if I am overwatering. Evert-other day w/ 1 1/2 gallons of water for 4 plants that are all in 2 gal containers. I would try to transplant next if the prob isnt nitrogen. I am curious....is the 3 part FoxFarm system (disolvable - open ses, beast bloomz and cha ching) all that I need for flowering, or am I supossed to be using other nutes too?

And again TYVM for all the help

[stinkyattic]

Okay week 5... play it real differently then!
First off, the plants might benefit quite a bit from a larger home. The new soil should be light with GREAT drainage to prevent overwatering and maximize oxygen to the roots at this very important time in bud development.
Next, late in flowering, yellowing low leaves is not uncommon or even undesirable. You have ~3 weeks to go if you are running an average indoor strain, and that is about what I'd expect to see.
So my advice:
Larger pot with good drainage, fresh light soil, and as for fertilizing, keep doing what you're doing. Let the soil dry out a bit between waterings too.

[slayer34ny]

Thanks for the acvise. I have never had to transplant at this stage...but I will try, It cant hurt right?!?...lol.

By the way. I am sure you dont want to hear this...according to some of the posts I have seen....but I have purple/red fan leaf stems and a few lower shoots show the same.

[stinkyattic]

That's not always a sign of a problem. Since you are starting to see late-flower N deficiency, it's virtually EXPECTED that your petioles will start to look reddish as chlorophyll breaks down, and some strains show red petioles even under perfect conditions.
Be certain that your runoff pH is correct to eliminate lockouts as a problem, and happy harvestin'.