Quote Originally Posted by prairieplantsystems
The nutrients are absorbed depending on your pH level. If you have a very high EC solution but the pH is not optimal the plants won't absorb as much nutrient. The same high EC with the optimal pH will permit the plant to absorb the nutrient at a much higher level, but you run the risk of running into nutrient burn. Ideally you need an optimal pH and a nutrient solution with an EC just under the level of nute burn. The level of EC can be quite tricky to work out, since for a period of time (i.e. a couple of weeks) your EC can be higher that the level that causes burns without burning the plants, since they are stocking nutrients in the stems, leaves, buds etc. Eventually the plant material becomes saturated with nutrients and if you maintain an EC level as high as you did before the leaves will start burning.

This is for hydro, for soil the same principles apply, but they are harder to control precisely since the soil will buffer against quick variations of the EC or pH level.
You took my quote out of the context of it's paragraph. The question was to make a point that the company's claim that because the pH is 'stabilized', you do not need to monitor the PPM of your nutrient solution whatsoever... which is completely false.
gainesvillegreen Reviewed by gainesvillegreen on . Need help with nutrient lockout Hope somebody can clear this up for me. I am almost 100% that I have nutrient lockout and that it is being caused by a ph problem. Sorry I don't have any pics to show, but from what I've seen and read, I am sure it is a nutrient lockout. I have 8 plants. 3 of them have burnt tips and edges and turning yellow. 2 of them show an Iron deficiency, and the other 3 look very healthy. The medium I am using is Promix. I water with regular tap water, the ph on the tap water is 7.2 to 7.3. This Rating: 5