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  1.     
    #1
    Senior Member

    Please help me!

    - Power plant growing indoor
    - Biobizz all-mix soil with 30% perlite
    - Ph roughly 6.5
    - Tap water with a few drops of vinegar to lower Ph
    - Plant about 3 months from seed
    - Baby-bio fertilizer at 5 drops per liter
    - Fertilized every other watering
    - 3 x 20w energy saving cfl 3 inches from plant
    - room temp about 72 degrees 24/7
    - relative humidity unknown but it should be low
    - 1 fan venting air into bottom of closet with a hole at opposite end at the top for air to escape


    I don't know wether it helps at all but I've included a diagram of my grow environment. I have 2 closets within an shed. The shed is completley insulated and there is no system for bringing fresh air in. every other day I open the door and window to allow the stale air to escape and let fresh air in.

    My main concern is the larger plant in veg that you can see in the pics. I know some of the damage that you can see might be nute burn which is my fault. there are small brown spots on a lot of the fan leaves and some strange marks on the new leaves at the top of the plant. The new leaves are also becoming deformed and sort of growing to the left instead of bieng symetrical.

    I have a web document called sick plant HQ and the spots resemble the pics of a plant with calcium def but before I start adding stuff to the soil I wanna ask you for advice. I'v mis-diagnosed things before and ended up doing more damage.

    The brown spots are also appearing on one of my clones and another of my clones is showing the un-symetrical sweeping leaf-a-mejig. Thanks for any help!!
    Wobster Reviewed by Wobster on . Please help me! - Power plant growing indoor - Biobizz all-mix soil with 30% perlite - Ph roughly 6.5 - Tap water with a few drops of vinegar to lower Ph - Plant about 3 months from seed - Baby-bio fertilizer at 5 drops per liter - Fertilized every other watering - 3 x 20w energy saving cfl 3 inches from plant - room temp about 72 degrees 24/7 - relative humidity unknown but it should be low Rating: 5

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  3.     
    #2
    Senior Member

    Please help me!

    Clone c-2 is from a different mother but the same strain (PP). c-2 is a much more squat plant. It doesn't seem to have the same spots but it has a different sort of pattern. the older leaves look textbook healthy but the new leaves are sooooo blotchy.

  4.     
    #3
    Senior Member

    Please help me!

    Hmmm, right. These are my 2 clones that i had a few spots appear on about a week ago. I haven't really changed anything that I was doing cos I still don't know whats wrong. I get myself a big water container and fill it 90% with tap water. My tap water is ph 7.2 or above. I add vinegar (about 2ml does it) to bring the ph to what looks like ph 6.7 on my color chart. I use this water for my ladies. I've gone really easy on nutes, roughly a tenth of what it says on the bottle.


    Clone C-1 has got red petioles. It has small yellowish spots on the older leaves. The spots look yellow in the photos, it's the way the flash catches them but to the naked eye under flouros they definaltey look a lot more brown.



    I just know you're gonna say ph....

  5.     
    #4
    Senior Member

    Please help me!

    Hey Wobster.....i am no pro, but i think you should put something under those pot....it is winter and floor can be pretty cold....and the roots don't like cold...and this can cause some strange symptoms... use some styrofoam or some old newspapers or what you like....it costs nothing...
    well anyway nice work so far....:thumbsup:

  6.     
    #5
    Senior Member

    Please help me!

    Potassium is locked out, likely by.... low pH!
    Check and adjust if needed. Try foliar feeding to keep it from getting worse while you fix the soil situation. Use a complete grow fert with K and micros, mixed up kinda weak, like 1/4 what the bottle says.

  7.     
    #6
    Senior Member

    Please help me!

    more pics

  8.     
    #7
    Senior Member

    Please help me!

    Perhaps calcium, but my guess is possible overwatering. Roots start to rot if kept too wet for too long. Have you flushed them more than once (back to back) in a effort to reduce the nute burn?
    Speaking of which...how often is "fertilized every other watering". If watering every other day, it may be too much.

    It's happening to clones, in other pots, too? Did you use fresh soil for the clones? Shouldn't be a calcium def in those unless problem had already showing before taking the cuttings.

    Would wait for others responses, tho...

  9.     
    #8
    Senior Member

    Please help me!

    I usually water every 3 to 4 days depending on how dry it gets. I have a moisture tester so I can gauge when it's ready for watering. I have had to flush it a couple of times but not back to back. I looked at the roots a couple of days ago to see if it needed re-potting and they looked healthy and white

  10.     
    #9
    Senior Member

    Please help me!

    I'd check the ph of your soil runoff.

  11.     
    #10
    Senior Member

    Please help me!

    I always ph 5 liters of water and keep it in a bottle for watering my plants with. I think the soil ph should be around 6.5 but I'm going to go and check for sure. I struggle with the liquid test kit that I have cos I find it hard to match the colour (my eyes are usless) so I need to get a digi one soon.

    I got a bottle of volvic which is ph 7 and another type of bottled water that is ph 6.4. I mixed 50ml of each thinking that I should end up with 100ml of ph 6.7 water. I kept this in a test tube to compare soil run off to. The water mixture that should be 6.7 though doesn't look like 6.7 should on my colour card, it's more like 6.4.

    If bottled water says it is 6.4 at source, does that mean it will be 6.4 when I buy it?

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