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01-05-2008, 04:50 AM #11
Senior Member
Foliar Feeding & Liquid Light, Miracle Food or Hoax?
Oh man, that's nothing. Ya shoulda seen the pantry last time I ripped out. :wtf:
Wait'll ya start thinking about getting a pesticide applicator's cert- that's the mark of somebody who's losing it. Or buying very specific compunds from chemical suppliers...
Have ya discovered Crop Production Services, Inc. yet? Ya can get anything,:thumbsup:
but ya gotta buy a pallet.:wtf:
I kinda think of foliar feeding as a medicinal treatment- It's something that I do as a respose to a situation, not as part of a regular nutrition regimen. What I'm putting on, and the concentration, are dictated by symptoms.
At one point, I ran a big system that had to be maintained at a pH of >7.5 ( Don't ask- there were fish involved) Macro availability was w/in tolerance, but there were absolutely no metals available. I'd run a micro supplement (used a couple differant- Greenair Mineral Matrix, Cropking's micro to 100-150ppm), a little ferrous sulphate, Proteckt, and some seaweed as a wetting agent ( also GA). ( Ca & Mg avail due to all that lime for those damn fish)
(Hit that space a couple of times w/ Cal-Nite as well, but special circumstances.)
For that we used a compresser and an auto-body sprayer. Caution- Protekt will hose on an auto sprayer.
In less surreal circumstances, I like a 1/2 gallon pump sprayer for most stuff- keep the pressure real high and the aperture real small- particle size counts. You want the finest mist you can achieve. You can get a really fine mist with a hand sprayer, but the mechanism fails damned quick. Metal tips hold up better than plastic. Wands aren't as handy as they seem.
Foliar's my preferred method for growth regulators- I really like Bushmaster and Purple Maxx as foliars- 3ml/g on the purple, more like 2 on the bushmaster.
Really, anything where there's a fine line between effective and toxic, I'll try to go foliar- you have much better dose control building a level over a couple of days , rather than pouring something into soil where it will take several days to be effective. Most toxicities will first show as leaf symptomology, but at that point the whole plant has a systemic toxicity that's gotta work it's way through. If you keep your application concentrations really low, and build tissue levels w/ repeated doses, it's easier to catch things before they go to far.
Doesn't work as well for the macros- you're just trying to move to many ions in the wrong direction. Way too easy to build toxic concentrations in leaf tissue way too fast.
Oddly enough, a little electrostatic charge will really help penetration on a foliar. Remember, there's leaf surface penetration and there's canopy penetration- the best chemistry on Earth won't help if you're missing stuff.
I like to spray from a couple feet back, to give the mist a little space to particularize ( is that even a word?)- :hippy:more like a fog, less like a monsoon.:hippy:
Pardon my stonedness.
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