No Idea what to do

[Helterskelter2]

I couldn't find a sticky or anything showing how to grow outside in sun

So please, What do I need and what do I do, Im completely oblivious

Helterskelter2 Reviewed by Helterskelter2 on 11-12-2007. No Idea what to do I couldn't find a sticky or anything showing how to grow outside in sun So please, What do I need and what do I do, Im completely oblivious Rating: 5

[texas grass]

either plant some seeds or clones outside, and remember wait til around spring time. pretty much let nature take its course, dont have to do anything to it, and make sure its in a safe place where theres no traffic at all. i wouldnt recommend doin it on anyones private property cause if they get caught they could be in big trouble and thats not right to do.

[Organic Rasta]

Outdoor Cultivation


For many cultivators,outdoor growing is by far the best. It will produce the most potency and unlike indoors,you can grow 12 foot monsters if conditions are correct.

Being a naturally robust and fast growing plant marijuana thrives in full sun-but will produce satisfactorily with only 5 hours of direct sunlight.

Growing outdoors has many benifits especially in comparison to indoor cultivation. No elecricity bills, no huge monetary layout, and also no dark times to keep you away from your plants. Sunlight tends to reach more of the plant and often the bottom of the plant is as developed as the top, especially when grown in full sunlight. From seed to harvest outdoors can be a long, and though very enjoyable time, one can be faced with a number of problems. In the 6 months or so it takes to grow out your plants, rain and wind can rip little buds apart, deer may eat your crop, rodents, snails and a number of insects/bugs can and will destroy an entire crop. These things need to be considered, vigilance and care can keep problems to a minimum.

The most important factors to be considered before planting, however, are Security, the need for maximum light, quality of the soil in the area and water availability. A compromise of these basic factors will assist you in choosing the most appropriate site for your crop. Light exposure is all important when first locating a site. Try to find an innocuos spot where the sun shines for the longest period of time. If you must choose between the morning sun and afternoon sun, it has been shown that the morning sun is more penetrative. Optimum exposure would be 8-5, however, 10-4 will suffice. Large open areas have the best exposure although if electing to grow on a slope usually the south side of a hill receives the most sunlight (in the northern hemisphere, north side of the hill for you in the southern hemisphere). Keeping in mind that sunlight at higher altitudes is more intense due to the thinner atmosphere. East/West exposures can be very benificial when getting the morning and midday sun.

There are many precautions one can take to protect their bounty from poachers and the law, which include pruning to obscure that distinctive cone-shape of a cannabis plant. Another is intercropping/companion planting-plant amongst soybeans, tomatoe plants, bamboo, sugar cane, etc.

When growing away from the house-in the wild-access to water can be a huge challenge. Once you have chosen a site, well away from prying eyes and in direct sunlight, water must be your next consideration. It must be available nearby or close to the soil surface otherwise you will have to carry it in. Water is heavy and watering is very hard work let alone the risks taken walking back and forth to your crop every 4 or 5 days in mid-summer. Try to find an area as close to a source of water as possible, a novel idea in this regard is to find water in the mountains-at altitude-and route it down to a lower spot close by. It is possible to create water pressure in a hose this way, and route it to a drip system that feeds the plants at continuous intervals. You can take a 5 gallon (20 litre) drum and punch holes in it, run a hose from the main oriface and secure it somehow. Bury the drum in a river or stream under rocks,so it is hidden and submerged. Bury the hose coming out of it and run it down hill to your garden area. A little engineering can save a lot of hard work-and this rig can be used year after year.

You will also need to decide whether you are going to plant in the ground, which is by far the best option, or into large pots. Planting directly into the ground gives you freedom from rootbound worries and the need for transplanting. Some growers prefer growing in large pots, however, so the plants can be easily transported should the need arise. Entire crops have been saved due to being transportable in pots. Also, by digging a big hole and placing the pot inside it, you can reduce the height of your plants if fence level is an issue.

Once deciding upon your plot, begin by digging a big hole with at least 2.5 feet dimensions. The bigger the better and if tree roots are present,be sure to dig as wide as possible. The soil quality will now be more easily analysed, however there is no one perfect soil to grow cannabis in. Different varieties grow within a wide range of soil conditions. Your objective is a soil comprising of good drainage and aeration, high in available nutrients and with an average pH. Though thesedays,outdoor growers aim for a pH. reading of 6.3 to 6.8. Cannabis grows very poorly in extremely compacted soils with poor drainage and extreme pH. When the soil in the plot is not adequate, options are open to you in the way of improving the soil medium. Soil conditioners are available or you can carry topsoil in.

Plants grown in the ground should grow much bigger and will need more space than smaller, indoor plants. How far apart you space them will greatly depend on variety, plus whether or not the plant has been topped. Pruned plants have a much wider base than unpruned plants. Plants which are topped more than once can grow twice the size as they normally would. The more space afforded to each plant the more sunlight they will receive, therefore growing bigger thus increasing yeild.

When choosing to grow in a greenhouse it is a good idea to disguise it as a tool shed, or some similar structure which can partially be achieved by using only one wall and the roof of white opaqued plastic, PVC, Filon or glass, and using a similar colour material for the rest of the shed-or painting it white or silver to look like metal. Try to make it appear as if it has always been there, with plants and trees that grow around to mask it while still allowing in sunlight. Clear plastic sheets of Filon (corrugated fibreglass) are available and you can opaque them with white wash (made from lime) or Epoxy resin tinted with white or gray painted on in a thin layer-this will pass more sun than white PVC or Filon. The coats of Epoxy resin will also protect the Filon for many, many seasons. Be sure not to tint the resin too much. You need to also keep the sun blockage to a minimum.

Filon can also be used as a roof/cover for any plants in the garden requiring camaflage and protection.

[Organic Rasta]

For finding locations

Try these ....http://terraserver.homeadvisor.msn.com/default.asp

Mapquest and something like Yahoo Maps....


more info to come

Jah Bless

[Organic Rasta]

So your goal is this huh.....:wtf::thumbsup::rasta::rastasmoke:


Outdoors weed tree


Outdoors info can be found everywhere
lemme lend a hand from a good site I frequent.

A good calculator
Know your Latitude and Longitude first

begin veg = after last frost has past, although rarely they will accur after

begin flower = when 12/12 begins and plants begin to flower

minimum = latest you can harvest, though you may need to harvest earlier

[Organic Rasta]

Site Selection


In my opinion site selection is the most important factor when growing outdoors. This is what determines how successful your grow will be and there are many aspects to consider.

Probably the first thing you'll need to think about, is finding a spot where there is minimal to no chance of someone stumbling across it.

I try and look for an out of the way, inconspicuous area totally overgrown with native trees and shrubs. I choose native flaura, such as wattles and the like. They usually have a yellow/amber coloured flower similar to the similar to the glowing amber crystals of ripening buds. This is also handy in hiding the plants from choppers and planes, because from the air its actually actually the beakon of reasin glands that stand out to the pilots and not the green of the leaves. You may need to snap or cut branches of the native trees to allow sufficient light to get to your plants.

Valley's are great areas to grow weed. Not only are they usually filled with rich organic topsoil from previous floodings, but are also not as easily seen by passing choppers and planes.
When growing in valley's, be aware that there is a chance flooding can occur during the rainy season, turning your little secret valley into a small river or inland sea. Because of this fact, i dont plant in the lower points of the valley. I keep planting to the sides of it.

Clumps of lantana are also good areas to grow a few plants in. It is a dence, thick noxious shrub with with small dark leaves and the small flower clusters come in a range of colours. It has spikey kind of branches that are uninviting to predators including man. You'll probly need to push out a sort of tunnel to gain access to the centre of the lantana. Just make sure ya cover the entrance point up somehow. You can usually find a branches or something nearby to hide the entrance point.
Lantana has a kinda pungeant/sweet odour which i think helps hide the smell of the stinky buds.

Crown land or government land, sometimes have previously cleared areas for fire breaks, access tracks and so forth. Generally when the land is cleared, the trees that are pushed over get shoved into big stacks by the heavey clearing machinery. I have found these to be excellent for concealing a few plants. You may have to move a few logs to get down to the soil level, but IMO the effort is definately worth it. Not only is it a good camourflage but is also a great barrier against predators and acts as a good windbreak. If at all possible use stacks of hardwood rather than soft. Termites don't partucularly like eating hardwood. They'd much prefer to chew through soft wood.

Once you've selected your prospective spot, take a good look around the immediate area. Make sure there are no rabbit burrows. They will dig and tear the shit out of your plants looking for moisture. Steel mesh or rio can be put down on the ground if rabbits are a concern. The steel mesh stops the animals from being able to dig. It's also useful for tieing down the plants branches if you choose to.

Also have a good look at the surrounding trees in the area. If theres a hollow in the tree there is a chance that a possum has made himself a home in there. If there is a tree like this find another location. Possums love the taste of buds.

If you're planning on using a creek, dam or river for your water supply this should also be considered in your site selection.


Always search your land and neighbouring land to your grow location for prints, food packets or evidence of campers. When choosing a spot, consideration should always be made to anyone who possibly throughout the whole summer could aproach your location. Using some locations in your local area were you have personal knowledge of whom gos on that land and whom owns it is a good idea. In general most grow spots will have unwanted human visitors, but this is were all LST and a stealthily placed plants can save your crop. Acceptions need to made soemtimes, risks need to be taken... not everyone will find good locations. In my area they are crap.

Its fairly easy to find a nice grow spot, but to find a grow spot were no-one will even aproach through the whole entire summer... well... thats hard.

Also consider, is this location secure enough for you to sit and work with your plants for half hour or so... because if your going to shit yourself when your in the location that isn't pleasent, try finding somewere you can feel secure working.

If your growing in abandoned houses and abandoned backgardens always check neighbouring electricity posts for any signs indicating the house could be demolished. Also when growing in buildings ect always have an escape route planned.

[Organic Rasta]

Keeping pest away


Urine - some animals fear the smell. Try cutting small holes in a bottle and place a cloth or something absorbant in it. Than piss in it, cap it and hang in a tree around the height of your plant. Predator urine such as fox urine is probabily better than your own and can be picked up at hunting shops.

Hair - Same effect as urine. Hair leaves your dna behind as does piss. Try using your neighbors dogs hair lol.

Fence - Place a small barrier around your plot. Use chicken wire or something similar Such as harware cloth, (it has smaller holes therefore keeping out smaller rodents.)

Soap - I've heard some bar soap repels animals such as deer. The soap I believe is Irish Spring. Graded up (cheese grader) Around your plot.

Your soil - In my experience....moles, mice, and other small rodents like to dig up loose soil in hopes to find a freshly buried treasure. Try compacting your soil a bit more. Also having them in pots helps as these little bastards cant climb up the pot to get the soil.

I use moth balls and A cayene peper mix wich includes cayene powder, cayene pepers,onions and dish soap. This works extremely well for deer and rabbits.

Use copper wire or tape to keep slugs away. There's a product called Liquid Fence that works very well also. It comes in a spray bottle and you just spray it around the site. I've also heard of pepper mixes that work well.

If you have a dog bring it out to run around your grow area. To a prey animal it'll be the same as having a coyote or wolf around. Fences are great but may not always be very stealthy. You should be able to get green wire at a Home Depot or Menards.

If you use containers, I'd recommend getting some camo burlap cloth from an outdoor sporting good store.

I've tried using my urine before but it didn't work very well. I kept it in the fridge for a few day but I don't think that should have affected it. Humans aren't really a "natural" predator of anything in the wild you see. I use the word natural very strictly though, because god knows humans are unnatural predators on everything on earth.

Oh yeah, Keep in mind what you're amending your dirt with. Most anything that is animal based, bone and blood meal, will attract animals at first. It's a good idea to get your holes dug early so animals are acclimated to the news odors. Also the smells fade over time. I've found it best just not to use any bone or blood meal, you can get just as good of fert by using fossilized guano.

I'm sure I've got more so I'll be back later.

[Organic Rasta]

A solution called renardine in which you can soak small offcuts of soft pine or conkers(horse chesnut)for a few days then scatter around your plants , this will deter ground burrowing bastards if placed in their holes or pathes.

...think you have gophers? also rabbit & deer for several months . Terrier men have used it to drive out foxes from thier land so the bastard blood brigade can hunt fox .

Also cresote or timber preservatives can work.
Beer for slugs too. They will bypass all plants to get to it , usually placed in a pot saucer sunk in the ground, I find coffee jars, etc, etc... work better and i suppose a drowning inebriated slug dies happy....

[Organic Rasta]

Dry chlorine helps keep Groundhogs
away from your plants. Find any Groundhog holes near your grow area
and apply the dry chlorine around the hole

Make a circle of table salt about 4 feet away from base of your
plant. Then make another circle a foot in from that. Salt is deadly to
snails and slugs and will keep them out....BUT both can poison your plants.

Use a homemade spray made from TABASCO® brand
Habanero Sauce. Animals and bugs really, really hate the stuff.

Don't Forget garlic! Garlic is potent and strong smelling! Lots of pest and rodents don't like them.

For mosquitoes u can use anise oil to help eucalyptus leaves and oil works, also for your leaves try spraying some diluted peppermint oil.

Bear urin (no joke)to keep the deer and hogs away...You can get it at most sportting goods store's with a hunting section for 5-$10..but becareful of the many preditor urines; you may also attract them.

[Organic Rasta]

More and more info coming on outdoor growing.....


Well i figure the same questions get posted over and over again about when to plant, when there last frost date, and just about everything else so i thought why not post all the need to know basic information in one thread

So heres a few links that should help you out on your first grows


http://www.marijuanagirls.com/Marij...aGrowGuide.html

This link is to the Marijuana Growers Book by Mel Frank and Ed Rosenthal, lots of good information from indoors to outdoors, pests, nutes, soil, finding places to plant, how to plant and all that wonderful information

http://aa.usno.navy.mil/data/docs/RS_OneYear.html

This next link is a Sun Rise and Sun Set table, just type in your area code/city and it will tell you when the sun rises and sets each day of the year

http://pictures.marijuana.com/galle...1257_p17846.swf

This is a neat little program i found over on Overgrow it tells you the best times to plant usually ( its off a little bit ) and it tells you when theres the most light outside, its like a sun table basically

Frost Date Selector Page - Victory Seed Company

Frost dates- US
Garden Guide: Frost Chart United States - The Old Farmer's Almanac

Frost Date Selector Page - Victory Seed Company

Frost dates- canada
Garden Guide: Frost Chart Canada - The Old Farmer's Almanac

This is all the frost dates in North America ill try to find one for the rest of the world very soon