People need to always remember there is no comparison between CFL's and HID. They are used for different purposes.

Fluoros are for seedlings and rooting clones.
Metal halides are for vegging a plant.
HPS (with added blue spectrum) is the way you flower plants, while still keeping tight node spacing through the added blue.

I would say clone and put those CFLs to the proper use (seedlings / clones ONLY). If you cannot afford a MH light also, (even a small one would outperform CFLs), the CFLs can veg a plant. Then with no MH light, once even close to 12/12 I would just get them under that HPS so they can feel some real lighting power, maybe a few weeks from changing the photoperiod.

I would guess your problem is more than just light. I would bet your grow area temps are going above 80 F degrees. This will usually add to any stretching problems. Be sure to stay near 75-78 degree range.

A northern lights or white rhino plant vegged under a 400 watt MH hood for instance, with mylar walls, will create node spacing that is so tight it is crazy. And in terms of the ability of a light to penetrate the canopy, HPS cannot be touched by anything that grows plants, so once you enter flowering, CFLs fall light years behind when it comes to making the plant bud at the lower nodes.
David Stone Reviewed by David Stone on . to close to light - what to do? Hello, have 2 beautiful plants growing, atomic northern lights. These 2 plants are growing in hydro, for about 6 weeks now, been in flowering mode for 2 weeks. The problem i have is they continue to grow taller, even though i topped them using the FIM method. Should i continue to keep moving the lights up? I am hesitant as the foliage down below (see pictures) will continue to get less and less light. Some of the leaves next to the lights are burning (turning brown). Rating: 5