CalMag and Thrive in bloom...

[PlantBoxer]

Using urine @ 1 TBS per gallon or water will provide all the N you need! I stopped buying GROW a few years ago. I do suppliment ThriveAliveB1, Liquid Karma.

When running dro run...same thing.

Superthrive at germination/early veg, is fine. I dont use it when I ramp up to bloom ferts tho, it sends the wrong signal to your plants metabolism.

[stinkyattic]

....Im using ro water in soil just now and man is it giving me a sore head i cant seem to get it right ...Is it possible to grow trouble free in soil with ro water?....

Sure you can do it.. you just have to WANT it hard enough lol!

I presume ( correct me if im wrong please) that my soil has calcium and magnesium already added and my canna nutes already have added cal +mag so unless i know the pecentages of the cal mag in the soil i will never get it right?HELP LOL.

I'm not sure if those elements are already added to your soil but they should be present at some level... have you considered supplementing your soil with a bit of bone meal? That's a nice slow-release Ca source, and Mg problems if they still arise are SO easy to diagnose and fix quickly!

My tap water run out at pH 7.2 and ppm 100 and after 24 hours getting defluorinated and airiated it comes down to 80 ppm pH 68 ...

Well with tap water that nice, I'm not sure why you would really even bother with RO in soil?

what is the benefits of using ro in soil i know the hydro benefits but in soil i cant see that it helps with weight..

The benefit would be the same as hydro: CONTROL. But IMHO the best way to have control over a soil grow is to have control over the soil itself. You can make your job of watering/fertilizing as easy or as hard as you like just by adding and subtracting soil components!

any help would save me getting stresssed and keeling over with a heart

attack....[/QUOTE]

And we certainly do not want you to have a heart attack!

Superthrive at germination/early veg, is fine.

I am VERY VERY careful of using superthrive too early, as you can definitely hurt seedlings with it. I pretty much wait on everything until it's time to feed anyway. Then again, my soil mix is on the hot side, so if your soil is very very mild, it might be fine.

[freewheelinfrank]

exactly what im after SOIL.Im using ro water in soil just now and man is it giving me a sore head i cant seem to get it right so hope some of you can help put me at ease here i cracked the ro hydro with sensi cal mag now its soil giving me major stess.Is it possible to grow trouble free in soil with ro water?Im using sesi cal mag grow and bloom I know in coco and hydro ro water is the best option but im having mad problems getting it right.I presume ( correct me if im wrong please) that my soil has calcium and magnesium already added and my canna nutes already have added cal +mag so unless i know the pecentages of the cal mag in the soil i will never get it right?HELP LOL.My tap water run out at pH 7.2 and ppm 100 and after 24 hours getting defluorinated and airiated it comes down to 80 ppm pH 68 So what my best option people my weight has suffered trying to get this right and for the first time my plants stretched like mad.
what is the benefits of using ro in soil i know the hydro benefits but in soil i cant see that it helps with weight..any help would save me getting stresssed and keeling over with a heart attack.thank peepo.davey the postman

I use reverse-osmosis water in my soil grows - at first, I had problems, because I accepted the notion that RO water is neutral-pH, etc - WRONG :wtf: - lol, my tap water is an acidic 4.5, before AND after the RO treatment - RO also removes calcium and magnesium, that needs to be replaced - actually, the only advantage to RO filters on city tap water, is the removal of the chlorine - chlorine does NOT injure plants, but it does kill micro-organisms in the soil, some of which are beneficial to the plant - (I used chlorinated tap water on ALL of my plants for many years, not knowing any better, with no noticeable effect on the plants) - if your pH is 6.8, then just use it as is, I wouldn't bother with the RO, just aerate your water overnite, so the chlorine evaporates, and then you won't have to mess with calcium, magnesium, etc ... you should be good to go, in soil, anyway :thumbsup: (P.S. - the 'stretch' wouldn't have come from the water), either a light issue, or it just hit a growing spurt, they do that sometimes :smokin:

[postmandave]

thanks guys this has sorted my head out i was only using the RO to see oif it would increase yeild but im not convinced it does. So tap water in soil it is i cant do with the stress at the moment . Stinky thanks again as always exellent info and frank thanks for ur input mate.If i was just doing a plant ot 2 then i would stick with it till i sorted the probs out . I thought i had messed up the whole grow trying to sort the cal mag probs out but since is stopped using the cal mag and the ro last week the plants have taken off they are week 7 12/12 and have at last started to put on some weight.heres a pic of the aurora indica and ak48 and nothernlights im doing at the momnet .thanks again dave

[stinkyattic]

Postman your plants look luscious. Like a big cone of soft serve ice cream on a hot day.

[postmandave]

PS Stinky , frank, anyone? do any of you know a good soil mix that would help my yeild currently i just use a local diy stores own brand soil with added perlite and vercumlite.thanks again guys and gals.dave



Thanks stinky you play a part in my yeilds i followed most of ur info to get to this stage so thanks gal.:thumbsup:

[stinkyattic]

Hm, i know you are in the UK but if you can find a source of good compost that contains both cow or sheep manure AND plant material (not peat though), and mix it with 30% perlite, you are good to go.

[postmandave]

so no peat at all in the mix? you know stinky that coment you made has just struck a cord with me
STINKY ATTIC IMHO the best way to have control over a soil grow is to have control over the soil itself. You can make your job of watering/fertilizing as easy or as hard as you like just by adding and subtracting soil components!
So of to the garden centre i go lol.Ive noticed some other stuff in soil LOAM is this good or bad and wetting agents i have avoided composts with these as i dont know the benefits .Should i add bone meal or anything else:smokin: iTS ABOUT TIME I STARTED MAKING UP A DECENT SOIL .THANKS DAVE

[Zandor]

Dave you are doing fine man...keep up the good work and I answered you post on the other fourm too.

Calmag 5ml per gallon is normaly fine, and your tap water at 100 ppm is great.

Don't forget to give them a good flush at the end too.

Nice job Dave

[slownickel]

Calcium is the secret to yields. Mixing it into the water is basically worthless as it is not mobil in the soil. In addition, you are creating a very alkaline crust that can make salts float, etc... not the way to go.

Calcium in the root system of a plant is translocatable.

This means that calcium being taken up by one root can move it to roots that do not have it. For this reason, I use the calcium tube technique. I stick a broom handle into the soil as deep as I can go (15" or so) and fill the hole with calcium carbonate along with a little worm castings on top of the hole. I make two or three holes at different distances from the plant, slowly circling around the plant, 1 1/2 inches, 3 inches and then at 6". It is amazing the root mass that develops around these calcium tubes. The roots will go as close as they want to the concentration of calcium that is optimum for them...

I would be careful about using a high magnesium product on the ground unless you have sandy soils. If you have a heavy clay type soil, magnesium will close the soil up and you will have excess water problems. Magnesium and potassium are very nasty salts.

Foliar magnesium is more effecient and is 100% translocatable throughout the plant using epsom salts at a 1% solution. Hit them foliarly with magnesium once a week with some sugar water. I use cane syrup, 4 tablespoons per gallon, it is much better than molasses as it is much higher sugar, it is in a simpler form and it not charged with so much potassium. You can drench with the same quantities in every watering. The storage organ of the plant is the root. Roots can pick up sugars directly. Sugars feed the soil and the roots. Sugar also kills nematodes.

When you pull up your plants you find it humorous the quantity of feeder roots smack dab in the middle of that calcium. With this technique you can use much less fertilizer as well as plants will have several times more roots, increasing their uptake efficiency by 1000 times or so.

Enjoy!