White Rhino, NLxHaze Serious Yellowing! Please Help

Hi, Im helping a friend with a setup I made for him.

For some reason there is a bad yellowing problem. This problem has been here from very early on as seen in the last photo. Early on we tried to treat this with calmag +

I normally don't post much and searched and searched with no results similar.

-These were flowered early, like 6-8" then 12.12.
-White Rhino x2 & Northern x Haze
-GH 3 part Lakewood Formula, on 0,1,2. 1200ppm total 6 gal
-Brita Filtered water ph5.4. Could chlorine be bleaching these plants?
-CalMag+ and KoolBloom in Topoff water 500-600 ppm total
-Digital TDS & PH meters always calibrated every week
-5 gal bubbler buckets w bucket top baskets
-1000k HPS hortilux cool tube - 6" Vortex exhaust, Thermo controlled cool intake
-10-25% Humidity 50-55 degrees lights off 60-65 degrees lights on

Please help me, thanks for your time
DrGreenBean:rasta:

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I don't grow anything what so ever.

I used to think this was a cal or mag def. now I think its a sulphur deficiency. Any insight will be very nice, Thanks

or zinc def

it could be Iron too... Looks vry much like a micronute def., maybe a lockout is causing this. I hv no experience with hydro, just tryin too help.

Good luck

Thanks, I just wonder how to fix this, anyone?

Best person to ask would be Stinky Attic, she ought to be a botanist.

:jointsmile:

Thanks, I replied to one of her topics.

Could cold resivoir temps cause this?
Chlorine Bleaching the plants?

Im so stumped, Ive never seen this problem.

Well unfortunately I play mostly in the dirt and ppms mean nothing to me lol... but...
1) Your temps are very low to start with. Frequently excessive cold will combine with another factor to make lockouts even worse... roots unable to uptake nutrients efficiently... all chemical reactions are temperature dependent, remember; cannabis appreciates its roots being at least 65 degrees. Your range is 10 degrees too low; 65 night and 75 day is acceptable. Furthermore, if you are growing in a cellar on a concrete floor, do something to get the pots UP off the floor, like a slab of 1" styrofoam insulation.... that's another thing, in soil anyway it is nice to have the roots just a touch warmer than the air.
Okay. That's the cold part.
2- The symptoms are weird. You say you are using CalMag. Those very clearly-defined stripes on the leaves are symptomatic of Mg deficiency or lockout. Again, temps combined with an acid environment (5.4 counts as an acid env!) CAN make lockouts worse... but I'm not sure about that one specifically.
On the other hand, you might also have the typical N deficiency at the end of flowering coming into play (early it seems in your case). And as someone pointed out, Iron deficency could certainly be playing a role here.
I hope someone with better water experience will come along and have a look.
The problem is that you are far enough along in flower that the usual quick-fix, foliar feeding, is probably not the best idea.
If you had only the very start of buds forming, I'd say go get yourself a bottle of IronGreen (I think they have it at home deopt as lawn food) and try a foliar feeding with that. It's iron plus nitrogen.
I'd be careful adding too much N during flower though.
The other thing is a foliar feed with epsom salts to correct possible Mg def.
The reason I'm suggesting to foilar feed to correct a deficiency is that obviously you are having uptake problems in the roots zone for it to have gotten that bad. BUT you have bud mass already.... yikes... a week earlier, and it would have been a lot easier to deal with!
You should wait for Latewood to drop by but in the meantime get those temps UP to the 65-75 range!!!!

Thanks for your detailed response!

Temps have been barly hitting 60 during the day so, I have turned the thermostat up a bit on the intake fan and have turned the fan speeds down as well. Im slowly bringin the heat up. Its funny because normally heat has been the main issue using these hps's. One problem is at night the fans are just off so there is no heat persay.

One problem I see is the fact that the system does not recirculate. They are just connected at the bottoms. Also the controller bucket is in another room were the temp gets in the low 50s if not lower. I put some blankets around it and under it.

Im goin to set all the buckets up on something, thanks for the tip. I am thinkin though it might need a warmer of some sort of seedling heating mat under the controller bucket to raise those res temps. I stuck my hand down in it and it was almost too cold to touch.

I believe at the start most of the yellowing was from not using the calmag. I wish they would have foliar feed them but now I realize its too late..

I wonder if this yellowing is going to effect the finished quality? None of the hairs have turned yet, wonder how much longer too go, no logs have been kept, so I havent a clue on age.

Thanks for your time,

How would I go about contacting Latewood?

DrGreenBean

would an aquarium heater work? I know they have some with temp controls dont they?

I'll check that out, thanks a bunch. Seems like it would be a great idea.

As long as your nute temps are 58-70 your ok....50-55 won't really hurt anything but growth rate. Flush them out with PHed water...I would say run it with just water for 1 day then add the nutes and such.

As far as ambient temps Stinky is right but keep that res under 70. I second the idea of a foliar spray...iv used a very dilute spray of micro nutes in the GH 3 part with no trouble.

I dont think you will see an improvement in the old growth...not sure but keep an eye on the new for sure. The spray should help. Since the res is so cold you could run the temps in the 80s no problem. That should help.

Go buy some insulation and wrap the buckets up...much more stable that way. Easier to control the temps, you could even add some warmer water and with the insulation the temps should stay much longer.

I wouldnt say im an expert but I do have some experience....I would feel more comfortable if an expert chimed in..but I do feel pretty confident in my solution.

I raised my canopy temps to 83 degrees, not sure what it is at night yet.

Do you all still recommend foliar feeding even though late in flowering? Do you foliar feed right when the lights go out?

I also used foam board under the buckets and controller. I wrapped the controller in a big blanket.

Looked in the local stores and have yet to find a aquarium heater. When that gets hooked up I will recirculate the system with a pump as well.

Anything else?

Thanks for your time
DrGreenBean

I went and got the aquarium heater and stuck it into the controller, works great, 65 degrees.

My day temps at canopy are now 83-85, and night are 60 degrees.

I got a pump to recirculate the water but I haven't hooked it up because its magnetic drive. I heard it removes iron. Can I not use this?

DrGreenBean

if i were u i'd give ur plants a good flushing with some florakleen and lower ur nutes to 1/2 str.. white rhino don't like 1200 ppm.. i'd keep ur ppm about 800 to 1000 at the most...

Flushed it a couple times... So even in peak flowering White Rhino doesn't like it over 1000ppm? Its at 1350 right now and there not burning or wilting. If anything the leave tips are pointing up, I figured I could keep going.

put oxygen solution in the water and a drop or two of super thrive watch um go green baby

02 solution?

They are also now getting brown rust spots on some of the leaves. I think its because I doubled my kool bloom in my top off water.