All Questions Concerning CO2~

So i am setting up Tanked co2 in my grow area this weekend and need some advice. i have been getting completely different answers from different people about the methods of co2 usage. as many people have questions about co2 on this forum, i thought one thread for co2 questions would be usefull as it would give more info in one place. So if you have any questions about co2 or you can help some one with co2 questions, please ask or do so here. it will make it easier for every one!

I found some good sites and descriptions for how to use co2 properly. not all of these are official methods so any out-side comments or facts would help.

http://www.hydromall.com/grower/suite101/co2.html
http://www.whole-systems.org/co2.html
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/co2-narten.html
http://www.co2science.org/scripts/CO...eB2C/Index.jsp
http://www.gardenscure.com/420/indoo...ent-guide.html
http://www.hydrofarm.com/content/articles/co2.html

So please ask questions in this thread a bout co2 and it will be a lot easier to find information. Enjoy SC

Out of all the logs i read, every where says to use co2 while the lights are on but people, like the ones that work at hydro. stores tell me to run it at night. what is the right way? anyone know from experience?

From what I know its during the day. That is when the plants are performing photosynthesis. They need co2 to do photosysthesis. Your grow shop buddies must be confused.

:stoned: i just think they are really really stoned all the time. i mean all the time.

Sweet post Cruz,

There is no doubt you are right in questioning the info from the grow shop. Only during lights on is the ticket. It sucks when someone puts a doubt in your head about something you already know

I also heard that i should hook my co2 to a tube and connect it to the back of an oscillating fan to spread the co2 around my room. is this true or should i hook it to my roof and drill holes in the tubing?

Its what dusto says they only take in co2 during the day make sure your fans are turned off during this time so your plants can use up all the co2!

Well, from what I've read...(weeding out all the info I think is bunk)...you would use the CO2 when the lights are on only. The CO2 is absorbed/used most efficiently at higher temps, like 85F-90F, which would only be possible during lights on anyway. Plus the photosynthesis requires it. So, yes, when lights on only.

As far as the fan and your tubing goes...you could hook the tubing up to your ceiling with the holes to let it sink into your room. You will want to make sure your exhaust fans are off, of course, so you don't suck out all the CO2 you are introducing. I have read that you should leave your 'circulating fan' on to move the CO2 around the room and allow the plants to use it completely. I'm not sure if this is 100% correct but it seems logical, as long as you aren't sucking it out. :D

My :twocents:

:rastasmoke:

TGF

Here is some stuff that I answered yesterday on KP's thread and I am pasting it hear so I don't have to re write it.
"OK Lady and Gent. Co2 CJ, well the right way, not the ghetto way that I am subject to at this point is to run your CO2 with a controller that measures the
CO2 of your room and turns it off at the appointed level. With the levels there are two schools of thought, one school says to run the CO2 at 1500 PPM
adding your household PPM which is approx 300 in most house holds so that means that your controller would be set at 1200 PPM and run this in approx 3
hour intervals while exhausting the CO2 out of the room before the next treatment of CO2. The other school that seems to make more since to me is to run the PPM of your CO2 at the same PPM of your nutes and this is the reason
why, the CO2 kicks your plants into optimal production and being such it demands more manufacturing of needed nutes and other growth related synthesis
to flourish under the CO2 treatment and as you match the PPM's you are meeting the demand of the PPM level of the CO2 with the PPM of your nutes to keep
the demand and production in balance. Some studies show that having a greater CO2 puts a bigger demand on the plant that it can't handle as well with proper nutes, it is kind of like taking royds but eating like a 130 LB person who lifts 110 LBS, while you are now 200Lbs and pushing 315. The muscles would be damaged or not develop as well because they couldn't keep up with the demand on the energy and protein requirements. SO those are
the two main schools of thought. Some controllers have light sensors that will shut off any CO2 dispersment off once the lights are out because plants
only take in CO2 during photo synthesis and releases it during dark cycle while taking in O2. Also temps should be at least 85D for the CO2 to really be
able to be absorbed and broken down by the plant, and they say that 95D is optimal. There is a argument about the light/photo synthesis needed from a lumen
output for the plants to be able to process the CO2 and one thing I know for sure at this point is that anything under a 400w will not create the kind
of photo synthesis in the plant that will allow for an efficient break down and an absorbssion of the CO2 and some will even argue that it is only 600w
and greater that can really create the needed lumens for this process."
Also, some do use CO2 when in veg but not as many as do for flower only IMO. It is true that CO2 can help the plant when in the veg stage, but with the plant being smaller in the veg stage and when in flower working harder and performing a greater amount of photo synthesis with greater vigor and growth while in the stretch and bud production, proportionally your plant is able to take in and use a much more efficient amount of CO2 than say some little 7 IN plant in veg that is still really just working on a root system. The root system has more to do with the PH, nutes, O2, temps, pot size or hydro medium and once that monster root system is established then the CO2 can come in and make that system work by giving the upper floor of leaves, stems, branches and bud sights
an athletic diet of CO2 that makes the plant process the light synthesis like it is on royds and when the lights are out the plant releases all that CO2 and takes in all of that O2 and starts the ground work in the soil to rebuild and restore and fortify for tomorrows work out. It is kind of like working out. When your working out, carbs help to provide the catalyst in the form of stored glycogen to help provide needed energy to produce the strength for the workout and this is kind of like the CO2. The protein helps to rebuild the muscle after the work out and rebuild it back up during protein synthesis and this is like the O2 and the nutes in the soil.
Well hope this helps some.
PS, I think that Trainable's long a// log gives one of the best discriptions of real time use of CO2 on the board so if you get board then read his thread, he even states some of the equipment that he uses, I have read up on the equipment on the sights that he so kindly took the time to attach just to be a little more informed of the products out there and there different uses and it was a good lesson.
If a Bear smokes a fatty in the woods while no one is there does it still smell?
Adieu

I think Ive already mentioned how i do CO2 santa cruz but Ill recap it here again and just add to what Bluebear said.

The simplest method I have found is for a bottle, regulated, with an environmental controller and ppm meter that controls the exhaust, CO2, and lights. I run the CO2 to fall from the ceiling just from tubes. Then I have multiple oscillating fans on the floor that are aimed up. This picks the heavier-then-air CO2 off the floor and distributes it around. You really dont even need to drip it from the ceiling with fans, they do a good job of getting it around.

I run them on a 45 mins-60 minutes on, and then a 15-20 minute exhaust. Obviously this is not a set in stone number because if you have a heat issue then you might want to run 45 minutes on and 30 minutes exhaust, etc. Obviously when the CO2 is released, your ventillation stops, and the temperature will rise. The idea is to find the perfect amount of CO2 release time that allows you to raise the temp but not exceed it for to long.

This is where sealed lights really come into play because they can keep temps down much easier. However in some odd situations where cold temps are present, you can turn off your sealed lights to heat up the room faster. Also remember you must have atleast 600watt HPS lights (but 1000 watt or 600 digitals are better) and like Bluebear said, atleast 85 F. I like 90F if I can keep it from going over 90.

I am a fan of running the ppm at the same ppm of your nutes. this makes sense in many ways and is also the way I was taught so I am partial to it. I do not use CO2 in veg at all since I have never personally seen enough benefits for the cost/annoyance. However we have always started CO2 almost immediatly after starting 12/12. PPM meters are very important because you can never do 100% math with predictions. I have friends who are to cheap to buy a meter and they still get some very good increases in yield from the CO2, but it took them more then a few messed up harvests to learn their method. If you are going to predict, then make sure you error on the light side. I would never go above 2000. The max my nutes get is about 1800-1850 so thats the highest the ppm gets.

Finally...never any CO2 during lights off. You want to make sure all CO2 is exhausted out and you have nice fresh air available. You can do this easily with a timer if your just using a regulator, or almost all high end environment controllers come with photocell sensors.

Thats my problem. my room stays between 68F and 75F since my two 1000w lights are aircooled. i might have to turn a light off and run a heater or raise my lights and turn of the air cooling at times, neither i want to do. what is the best idea since i dont have enough electricity to run 600 more watts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dusto2k3

From what I know its during the day. That is when the plants are performing photosynthesis. They need co2 to do photosysthesis. Your grow shop buddies must be confused.

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You'd be suprised how many people don't know that simple fact

Put the fans that are on the lights on a timer to turn off the fan durring the CO2 treatment for a couple hours. If you have them on seperate fans try one at a time. If you think it will heat up to much then set the timer to turn off the fan for 1 1/2 hours then back on then back off for the same time.
Hope this helps.
Adieu

my temps are at 79 with the exhaust off for about an hour and a half. my humidity level is at 60, but im going to barrow a dehumidifier from a friend. what do you think my schedule should be for co2 if i want to keep my room temp up?

How big is the room? And some would argue that you would do well with that humitity even in flower especially with CO2, unless you have had past issues with mold, but even then people use solfer burners to prevent the mold prob.
Adieu

yeah i have a sulfur burner, and my room is about 512cu ft.

If your using a sulfur burner, that humidity is fine "usually". I know people that prefer high humidity during budding and dont even use burners or mold protection. And then I know people that freakout when it goes above 40%. I think its entirely environment/situation/strain dependent. Dehumidifiers will definitely heat up the room depending on the size. Im suprised your 2 1000 watts only heat up the room not even 10 degrees. Must be a fairly large area. Is it completely sealed or are you trying to heat/cool a very large area aside from the grow area? How long does it take to reach 79 F? And have you considered a burner? Thats really the only way to save electricity.

it is completely sealed (its hard to open the door when the exhaust is on). its that room and that room only. it takes about an hour and a half to reach 79F from 69-71F w/ the exhaust off.

http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/co2_calculator.asp
This is a co2 calculator to measure amount of co2 you will need and how long it will last you. it also tells you how long to set it on for.

SC...I think with all the work you are putting in an automatic Co2 unit is in order. Just so you know I have pretty well sealed my room now and Once my unit gets the room up to 1700ppm it only takes about 3-5 mins for the level to drop fifty PPM or so and it kicks back on for a few mins. This system keeps the PPM at optimum levels for your plants. No raising and dropping of Co2 levels.

I have 2 16 inch fans in a 10x11 room. One sits on the floor facing up to draw the heavy Co2 and shoot it straight up at the ceiling and one is angled at the floor and oscilates so it stirs up the air/gas in the corners of the room.

You will go through more gas but your yeilds will justify the expense. The only way to get to 1gram/watt is to optimize everything. I know you know this stuff but maybe you need some confirmation that the expenses are worth it.

BTW are you growing in a garage? Your pics seem like it could be. If so how do you deal with the garage door? Also...Quit being Bizarro Calijay!!! Even your style of picture taking and Camera quality are like mine. Its freaking me out. I will post some pics for you to peep later.



Peace and Love - Jay

could you give me a site to a co2 regulator like the one you described? that would help alot. i am growing in an insulated shed. the walls are about 6" thick. for the doors i applied weather proofing rubber to the door frame and to the door it self. then once i latch the door (one latch on top, one in the middle, and one on the bottom) the rubber makes a tight, light proof, seal. when the lights are on at night you cant see the light from outside the shed no matter where you look. i also caulked all the cracks. when my exhaust is on it takes force to open the door. it wasnt always this way, though. it took probably the most work out of the whole procedure.