Hey those of you who have used cool tubes or a "Bake A Round (cheap cool tube alternative) I have a question, how much did it bring down the heat in your box. Was it worth it?
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Hey those of you who have used cool tubes or a "Bake A Round (cheap cool tube alternative) I have a question, how much did it bring down the heat in your box. Was it worth it?
Well, I have a home-made cool tube, and I used a Bake A Round...Quote:
Originally Posted by k1ucHt
I can't tell you the difference between cool tube and NO-cool tube because before the tube, I had a sealed hood.
But, those bulbs give off quite some heat... I think that the biggest "change" the cool tube makes to a grow setup, is in keeping the cooling air close around the bulbs, and away from the rest of the grow.
A sealed hood keeps the hot air separated, but a cool tube "forces" the air to come into contact with the bulbs.
It's pretty cool... hehehe....
But not cool to the touch... at least, not mine. But not a lot of "radiated" heat either...
Cool tubes are cool! Get some... get cool...
So will it or will it not keep the temperatures from being way too high? I've never left it on long enough to be completley sure but in my current box with the HPS on the temperature is around 100 which is obviously way to high. I'm looking to keep it down to 76-82 as it is with the CFL veg lighting.
In my opinion, the cool tube will help you achieve those temperatures...Quote:
Originally Posted by k1ucHt
Thats what I like to here turltle lol. Thanks.
actually...I think, just from watching the different bake-a-round threads over time. If you buy a $2-300.00 vortex for input and for output, it will cool it down. Most people cannot afford vortex, so they use a fan that blows air and cools a bit, but is not efficient enough to really cool things down.
Turtle I am not saying your tube isn't cool, matter of fact I am building one myself...then I can compare to your results. I think harddon made his own, used 2 expensive vortex fans and his box was cooled way down.
Cool LateWood... the more input the better...Quote:
Originally Posted by latewood
Vortex... BGHydro? :D
I'm very interested in how it goes for you...
When I get the bulbs running, I'll start logging temperature readings... intake air, exhaust air, 1" away from the glass, 2" away, etc.
BTW: Latewood, you can say my cool tube isn't cool... it actually, is NOT cool... if you touch it under the bulb, it would burn after a couple of seconds... only under the bulb.
I hope that's what you mean by cool... because if you're saying my cool tube isn't cool, as in MTV cool... or hip 2006 cool... or, latest fashion cool... that, that I cannot take...
lol :D
It's all good LW :dance: :dance:
cool...
:DQuote:
Originally Posted by latewood
Latewood, which would you rather pick:
Fantech, or a Vortex?
Or does anybody suggest another good brand/quality fan?
I didn't find the Vortex in BGHydro...
Peace, love and coolness,
-turtle420 :cool:
.
I want vortex, but can't afford them...also keep in mind that I have a room, not just cabinet, and AC so, I don't have quite the problem...
If BGH sells fantech as their premium fan, then i am sure it is every bit as good as vortex...there are a couple german fans out there too, I think.
I know you want in the area of 450-600cfm on the input and the output...
here is the page turtle...bghydro, atmosphere page.
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/items.asp...atus=0&Tp=&Bc=
the elicent fans look nice...
look here turtle, call bgh and ask about the fan that would give you the best value and still get the job done...tell'em you bought home-made cooltube style, off ebay or, some shit... and you need a fan for it. do you use 6" fans?
Either fantech or vortex is fine they both work great and move a lot of air quitly and that's the main point. That's why I have 2-4" 1-6" and 1-10" vortex. I love this things with a muffler you hear nothing. :)
mine dropped my temps about 15 degrees. thats going from an open hooded 400w hps to a $15 cooltube.
thanks for the update...I have 2 in the closet waiting for build
Interesting UPDATE:::
Yesterday, I got home... I found out that my exhaust fan (300CFM) wasn't turned ON. Something went wrong... not sure what.
In any event, here's the cool-tube related information:
At 5pm, my 400W MH turned ON inside the cool tube.
At 5:04pm My 50CFM fart fan cooling the cool tube turned ON.
The 300CFM exhaust fan did NOT turn ON at 4:52pm.
When I arrived home, and got into the room, I immediately noticed the 300CFM wasn't running.
The temperatures where at 94.2F
This was, exactly 2 hours and 20 minutes since the 400W MH turned ON.
Sooo... nothing, maybe that helps somebody.
Peace to all,
-turtle420 :cool:
.
lmao ohw ell no damage no fault eh? :D
I guess so...Quote:
Originally Posted by chisme
Something interesting... the plants seemed not to give a rat's ass... they seemed, fine. Basically.
I'm sure more time under these circumstances would have made them very uncomfortable, but, what impressed me was, that after 2 hours, the temps had risen less than 5-6 degrees (F) above their typical level.
I would have guessed the inside of the cabinet would get to 110 or 120... ???
Or maybe I'm just trippin'.
I used a vertical intake at the top of a parabolic reflector , on a suncircle , using a fart fan Temp droped 9 degrees f. Have data sheet if needed , noting the intake temp is part of the math. I observed data from recorders Dataq has some cheap recorders. I use a 16 channel to check the system's Automation is where its at even in this century.
a cool tube (or any exhausted hood) should be cool to the touch.. or at least not burn your plants when they touch it.. that is the point...
iloveyou
Get them in any size you want and make it. They come in 5 foot lenghts and a 6" is under 100.. http://www.winshipdesigns.com/home/w...rderform/199/0
enjoy
I just finished making my cool tube. I am not sure what the temp difference is but I know that the 400w hps ran for a hour and I could touch the glass and not get burned:cool: . I made mine for less than 80 bucks, I bought a aero-flo 6"duct fan on ebay for 35 bucks at 240 cfm, and bought a glass tube from michaels for about 5 bucks and spent 35 at home depot to wire and duct everything up. I am anxious to see how the skunk reacts under its new 400 hps rather than the 175mh that i had on it, but I couldnt install the hps because of the temp prob. Anyway hope this helps....
Just blowing air across the enclosed ducted light fixture at up to 539CFM WILL NOT cool the temperature of the lamp!!!....or the Room.
Don't be mislead!
My experince indicates that even a air cooled fixture will get no cooler that the temperature of the outside air source.
I have a 4x5 x9 room. In North Texas - it's in the 90'-100' outside during the day, right now.
I run a 549 CFM exhaust - drawing thru the 6" ducted air cooled fixture which is drawing the outside air from under the house crawl space.
Additionally -I'm running a small 5ton A/C unit at 78'. - Only fresh air is when I open the door.
I'm burning a 1000 HPS and I can adjust the light to any height in the room and adjust the room temps by 74' - 90' and have never seen over 90'
A 1000HPS puts off 3,200 BTU
It took three different air flow duct layouts to achieve this atmosphere. Drawing the outside air from an intake at the shingled roof area -was sending air temperature 94' to the light fixture and I couldn't get the room below 94'.
I got rid of the outside air FEED into the room and changed my Light fixture outside air source to 20' cooler from under the house.
this is turning into a great thread...good input to go with information...
hazey wonder...great find...I like that site...you just might have made me some money...lol lw
late how do you plan on cutting the tube?
You can cut the tube with a cheap glass cutter.
My cool tube holds 400 watts and my plants can touch the glass.
I use one 4 inch Can-Fan brand, one of which outsucked two of the competition in a test for the same supposed CFM. I believe the competition was Fantech. This one fan also supplies ventaltion for my veg section and mother section.