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Skunk #1 clones in DWC - 5.8 PH, Water temps ~70-73F, 400W MH, PPM of Flora Nova Grow is around 500-550 PPM in RO water. Some of the leaves are getting to look like this. Beginning with tiny spots and then growing rusty like this. I did have some problematic pH problems because I thought I was getting it to a normal pH but my meter was off so it was like 5.3-5.5 for a week. Fixed now.
BTW, the plants are at 8 days veg from clone
Anyone?
Mag deficeny is hard to get. Lock up is hard as well. I tryed killing a plant with MgSO4 once and added added about a quarter cup to the soil of a 1 gallon. The growth slowed and it began to yellow a bit. Then came back to life. Was fine for the first month and a half.
It seems as if almost every problem that people post on here is advised as a Mag deficiency. I did purchase some CalMag and will add it to my nute mixture tonight when lights come on. I will post here in a few days with results if anyone wants to know.
The plant rusts form one of the largest natural groups of plant parasitic fungi (6,000-7,000 species), many causing severe diseases of our most important crops. Some examples are: the rusts of wheat, corn and other cereals; forage and range grasses and sugar cane; beans, soybeans, peanuts, and other legumes; various fruits and vegetables; coffee, and forest and plantation timber and pulp trees. Rusts probably attack more different kinds of wild and domesticated plants than any other natural fungus order. Because a rust species is usually highly host specific, i.e. attacking only one or a few closely related plant species, and may have up to six different and dissimilar spore forms and two unrelated hosts while completing its life cycle, the rusts are among the most complicated microorganisms.
Rusts are of great scientific interest because of their close evolutionary relationships with their host plants, their complex life cycles, and their numerous biological adaptations that permit them to thrive on all the continents (except Antarctica) under great extremes of environments. Present day rusts represent a very ancient group of organisms whose ancestors were well established parasites on the primitive ferns and fern-like plants of the carboniferous age some 250-300 million years ago. As new kinds of plants evolved, culminating in the numerous species of flowerings plants that now dominate and clothe the earth making human civilization possible, the rust fungi also evolved hand in hand with their new hosts, producing the great diversity of rusts that we know today.
http://www.btny.purdue.edu/Herbaria/Arthur/
And do you think that is what is going on here?
here is a example of a rust the spots look about the same
calcium def .. try some lime abount 1 tbls per gal. will come back in 2 weeks
calcium def .. try some lime abount 1 tbls per gal. will come back in 2 weeks
mg deficent according to http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...l%3Den%26lr%3D
According to the same site
Calcium plays an important role in maintaining cell integrity and membrane permeability.
Young leaves are affected first and become small and distorted or chlorotic with irregular margins, spotting or necrotic areas. Bud development is inhibited, blossom end rot and internal decay may also occur and root may be under developed or die back. Deficiency will cause root tip die-back, leaf tip curl and marginal necrosis and chlorosis primarily in younger leaves. Symptoms: young leaves develop chlorosis and distortion such as crinkling, dwarfing, developing a strap-like shape, shoots stop growing and thicken.
Difficult to distinguish visually. May precipitate with sulfur in solution and cause clouding or residue in tank. Excess calcium may produce deficiencies in magnesium and potassium.
These are rarly seen except when deminstrated by lock up
What are you feed them
Like I said, I got the CalMag Plus, so I'm gonna add that to the nute mix. Hopefully that fixes the problem wether it be calcium OR magnesium. Also, at 10 days grow, is ~500-600 ppm a good level to be at with RO water/nutes? I know it's not too little, but would you guys push it a bit or stay where it's at?
Also, Karmaxul- the rust fungus pics do differ from my leaves. The pic yoiu posted, they are all small round rust spots. My leaves look more like irregular blotches of rust which looks like necrosis after yellowing in those spots seemingly from chlorophyl deficiency which can be caused by magnesium def. I hope thats the case! :)
You could have a lockup but you do not have a defeciency. How much Mg are you feeding.
There are many different organisms that cause rusts. And the are specific to types of plants. Do you hike alot?
No, I don't hike much. I put 2 tsp of CalMag per plant. The DWC is a 5 gallon bucket, shd be about 4 gallons of water in each. The pH is stable at 5.8, the PPM went up around 650-700. Hopefully this helps. From everyone I have talked to, they say I should be using CalMag with FloraNova and RO water as RO filtration removes the vital nutrients that CalMag replenishes.
Here are a few more leaves to take a look at - I think this describes the general problem better than that one pic of that one leaf.
Does this look like a mag def to you?
BTW, this is happening mainly to the older fan leaves and not the new growth.
And this is the end result of 2 leaves
I was unaware you were using RO water and yes calmag should be added from what I hear aswell. Weather it is a calmg deficency or a rust or blight the calcium should should help. How old are the plants and when did you first see signs of the problem?
well, theyre clones off of a project I had to scrap due to house inspection issues. The clones have been in the DWC buckets for 11 days now. The water temp is getting to ~75F before lights out which is worrying me. I first saw signs of the problem about 5 days ago, maybe 6. I also think I had pH for a lot of that time way too low (5.2-5.5) for some of that time. This is my first hydro attempt and the pH meter was reading 5.8, but then when I calibrated it again, it then read 5.2-5.5, which means I had it too low in there. Everything is on track now so hopefully they get back to where they should be. The only thing worrying me is the water temps. The growroom is an actual room. There are no air intakes/outputs. I did install an air conditioner into the window in the room but... it seems to not put out cold air. Might be a freon issue :( I would say the air is slightly chilled.
Besides, in my neck of the woods, it's still too early in the year to be running an AC, so that would seem suspicious. (It's 40F outside at the moment)
I did try putting RO ice cubes into the buckets but that is a very temporary fix. I might try one of those blue encased plastic ice things next.
Im just glad it's not thrips. I've had thrips before for 2 years straight in soil and it was a nightmare. I had to get beneficial insects to take out the thrips. It worked, but damn was it an ordeal.