garden safe for spider mites is it any good-and good to use during flowering any insight and response is greatly appreciated
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garden safe for spider mites is it any good-and good to use during flowering any insight and response is greatly appreciated
YES,
BUT MITES are a war.. and you are only using a GUN... Your enemy can't be eliminated with GUNS alone..
You will need tanks, planes, and bombs..
Not to mention... spys and double spys..
MITES are a menace.. I have met several growers who believe that mites are an inevitablility with indoor growing....
I dont believe that....
If you look further into this forum.. you will find several you will find several weapons...
BUT.... I also have an untested weapon for you...
One of the 2 SURE ways to KILL mites off for good is...
AVID- a very deadly posionus weapon... it can even KILL YOU
and then the other weapon for total distruction is elevating the C02 levels to dangerous levels...
Well... they sell dry ice at 31 flavors, baskin robbins for 15 cents a pound... you can buy some dry ice and put it in a tent... a home made tent made of trash bags... put the tent over your plants and then put dry ice in there... suffocate the mites with C02... do this once a week for 4 weeks...
I think this will work...
Sometimes you see tents over house in your neighborhood... these are the pest control guys doing the same thing..
love
hey~! is that the only reply im going to get,need more replies plz
Mites are indeed a menace.
I just finished winning the war with red eyed spider mites that got on my plants from some jalepeno peppers this fall.
They suck the green outta the undersides of the leaves. Makes it look like salt or something sprinkled on them.
They object you show if for FUNGUS and more. I don't know if you need the extra stuff or not. But the Home Depot sells the same brand for pests alone.
It will work but here is the problem...
Your mites have cycle stages...the spray will only work on the adult / juvenile aged mites.
They spray you want in soap is really salts of essential fatty acids. This rips open the membrane of the adult/juvee mite and kills them.
However, in 4 to 14 days, depending on temps, eggs will hatch again.
You need to get them right as they hatch lest in 4 days they breed and lay new eggs.
So, the answer is yes it will work, but you need to apply every 3 - 4 days and you MUST saturate the plant leaves...every single one of them.
I pour johnsons baby shampoo in a 5 gallon bucket and took my tomatos and just dunked them in the solution.
If your container is too large to allow you to dunk them, just spray each and every fricking single leaf every 3-4 days for the next 14-21 days. This is hard on the plants, so, every OTHER day, I spray them down with clear water to help unclog the stomata of the leaf.
The clear water will not kill on contact but if your sprayed well, you should have killed all adults/juveniles and be fine. Just make sure you spray again and again to kill the new hatchlings.
Also, you should wipe down all surfaces, walls or spray other plants that are near them. They came from somewhere and it helps to ID the source.
On my non flowering plants, I just cracked open 3 cans of the RAID fogger and let em rip...this works but again, it doesnt kill the eggs.
Also, you need to intend on plants growing another 60-90 days for the chems to breakdown and let the UV rays from the lights help break them down. By then, you can flower and be free of contaminents.
I also tried, in vein, the predator mite stuff. Hell half of them die by the time they are delivered and it just didnt work out. I did get to see some predators eat some spider eggs and that was cool!
But a waste of money really.
Hope this helped.
Bluntman
this is great info
"I pour johnsons baby shampoo in a 5 gallon bucket and took my tomatos and just dunked them in the solution."
ALL OUTSIDE CLONES should get dipped before coming into your garden...
And you need to know that this is a WAR!!!! NO freaking joke....
these guys are bad ass..
Mites can, will and DO hybernate when temps drop below 60 degrees.. they can hybernate.. forever... and when the temperature comes up.. they come to life...
SCRAY right!!
these guys are bad ass...
You will need to fight the battle with many weapons and be consistant and unrelentless. I think HArdon showed that he used a whole arsenal of weappons...
AND NOW YOU KNOWM..
love
gnowm is correct, the cold will jsut send them into sleep and once the temps get up, BANGO...little suckers are everywhere.
what is most disgusting is to see the eggs all over the place in the webbing...
to think I might smoke them...ARGH!
Smoked eggs.
Dont havest until you are egg free!
Just spray with the soap every 3-4 days for 21 dys and you;ll be fine.
Some of the leaves will even repair themselves...not all though.
Neem oil works well too
Did you know neem oil is used as a birth control for humans in India.
http://www.bytheplanet.com/WhatAilsY...ntrolwomen.htm
Anyway it works but results take time a good couple of weeks. Great as a preventative measure.
I wrote this to someone else earlier today hope it helps....Neem oil is great to use mixed with a mild soap and iso at 1 oz. per gallon. This will stop them from breeding yet it takes a couple of weeks to work. You are most likely using pyrithium which is good but can burn the plants if you drench them. Alot of the mite breeding takes place in the medium so make sure you spray it as well. Preditor mites are good to. They eat spider mites and when the food source runs out they eat themselves. Spraying your plants down with straight water before the lights go out is very helpfull as well. Diatenatious earth (food grade) is a good defense when dusted over the top of the soil. It is made of razor sharp fossils harvested from lake beds that will not cut you but when insects with exoskeletons crawl through it they cut their bellies and dehydrate within 24 hours usually. They are on the undersides on the leaves and suck the juice from the stomas mostly so make sure to wash the undersides of the leaves. I have grown many plants and have never seen any holes in the leaves so I dont what to tell you about that. If you got CO2 you can crank it and sufficate them aswell. To slow down the breeding you could make your own with sugar and yeast. one cup sugar to .6 gallon water with 15ml yeast. That mix is good for 20 sq feet. My room was a bit larger so I use 7 gallon camping water storage containers outside the room with garden holes coming through the wall in back of a fan.
For your leaf eater problem all I can recommend is get the hottest peppers you can find and make a tea out of them and spray the plants with them. The plants dont mind but the critters hate it.
One love
c
i picked up a bottle of that same stuff from walmart. i had spidermites. my plant looked good. i sprayed it down and came back the next day and almost cried. my leaves were wilted and looked to be dyeing.sprayed them down good with plain water and it recovered, but its neem oil from now on
Thats why I stick to Neem.Everytime I try something new it fry's my shit.
Did you know neem oil is used as a birth control for humans in India.
Thanks
that is interesting...
love
Ya, I heard that...don't think I believe it but ,what u gonna do!
No use a 1/10 milk/water mixture.. it´s a proven remedy agains spider mites..
Hum milk ay. Well I have never heard that. Do you use organic milk? Powdered? I know itll kill mildew but dont understand have mites would be effected besides not liking the smell or taste of rotton milk. How does it work?
One love
c
Bluntman,
Im in the same shoes as you. The thing is, i wasnt so lucky when asking for help. You got Knowm, JDogg, and Harddon. YOU ARE VERY LUCKY. Please let me know what worked for you. Its funny that you posted that pic because that is what i have been using since the start of flowering. The only thing is, since i am growing LST style i cant get the underside of the leaves. Thus, i see a BUNCH of dead mites on the top of the leaves but when i flip em over theres a BUNCH still crawling. MITES SUCK! WE MUST WIN!
Also im not sure if this is from the mites or the spray but just as a note, it is only day 26 of flowering for me and 50% of the hairs on my buds have turned brown.
Keep me posted
-SS
I just found this recipe at maximumyeild.com
SPIDER MITES
â?¢ 28 grams table salt
â?¢ 4.5 liters of water
Shake well and spray liberally over plant surface and underside of leaves, or
â?¢ Steep 2 cloves of crushed garlic in 1 litre of water for 24 hours
Strain. Do not dilute. Spray on plants no more than twice a week (also works on aphids and scale mites.)
One love
c
and there's a mechanical method for controlling them during flowering and pre-harvest when soap solutions and insecticide's are not to be used...the tube vacumn and suck em off, webbing and any adults and hatchlings! i have only had the need once but am very glad a net-friend mentioned this method as it saved a crop nearing harvest that was infested from a store-bought houseplant being brought into the house, even though it was nowhere near the garden they got transported to it via our clothes...
hey do anybody have a pic of a leaf with spider mites if so plz post it,so i can understand what to look for.It would be greatly appreciated
Quote:
Originally Posted by del...
WOW...
GOOD ADVICE...
love
thanks Known u have great advice too:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Garden Knowm
With that method wouldnt it suck all the crystals off, and damage the trichs. If not im very interested. Do you use shop-vac, or just a normal vac with the tube attatchment.Quote:
Originally Posted by del...
Thnks Del
-SS
Do you dilute the baby shampoo? if so how much to how much water?Quote:
Originally Posted by Garden Knowm
Spider Mites suck.
I have read everything I could on them and the bottom line, once you have spider mites, you will always have them.
That is until your crop is completely harvest, you fog your grow room every 3 days for 1 month. (10X)
Thats just the way it is.
Neem Oil is very rough on tender leaves...and should be applied only during the dark cycle, or right prior to it. The lights can and will burn thru the oil on the leaf.
Soap and water is best, if used as Johnson and Johnson baby shampoo. No bad ingredients, just gentle shampoo.
I prefer this because you have to spray the entire plant every few days and over and over and over again and use of other things is hard on the plants.
Mix 2 capfuls in a quart sprayer with warm water and you must spray EVERYTHING. EVERYTHING. EVERYTHING. DId I say everything?
Stem....leaves...tops, bottoms, stalks, containers, soil surface, flooring, walls, etc...
Every 4 days...this will control but not eliminate them.
All it takes is ONE and the rest will come. And, there will always be ONE.
DO NOT USE SOAP or neem oil on a flowering plant, as this will wash away some of the resin. USe the hot pepper wax spray for flowering plants.
For the soil, just mix the same formula of soap and water and water as normal. Soap will not hurt the plant leaves.
Here are some neat pics I grabbed...
Some eggs and a fricking spider mite sucking the juice from a tomato leaf.
This AFTER i thought I has won the war....
If you have spider mites, and your plant is in full blown flower, all you can do is use predator mites..but they take a while to establish themselves, and by then you fan leaves will be sucked and you could lose them.
Its a shitty situation indeed...
You cannot vacuum the eggs off the leaves...you simply have to wait for them to hatch and spray them as juvee's and hope you get them all before they turn adult and lay more eggs.
Its the eggs and the frequency of total saturation that is the key to controlling them. And thats ALL you can do, is control them.
You cannot eliminate them, once infestation has taken hold.
I got rid of spider mites while running a multi hundred plant perpetual harvest.
Neem in the fertilizer
Preditor mites
Washing the plants with water out of the light.
Dont stress it you will win.
Preditor mites take a couple months to work but they get every last one then eat themselves and do not effect your plant.
One love
c
now I did have bug but not mite and i use that garden spray but only during the night cycle and it got rid of those pesky whitefly's or whatever flies they where and thanks for the great info:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by karmaxul
So for dunking clones, you use 2 capfulls to the quart also?
for what,sitt.:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by SittinStoney420
Very difficult battle to win.. you are the first to claim victory during a GROW..Quote:
Originally Posted by karmaxul
congratulations...
love
: )
It was them or me and they were not paying the rent so I hit them with everything I had. I think the preditor mites really did the trick though. I dont know if this matters but I had all pine wood floors. It was not so much a grow as it was my life.
One love
c
Neem in the soil.I was always told would burn the roots.Now all the hundreds of ppl could be wrong but I seriously doubt that.IU've had ppl tell me they fryed there roots with neem oil from it dripping off the plant into the soil.So sorry but I don't agree with that.And I don't suggest anyone try to water with neem oil or put it in the soil(bad idea).If you want to treat your soil for bugs use SM-90...neem is great for everything else but not for your soil.Kills roots!!!You got really lucky Karmaxel.:confused:
I would only mix a capfull or two with a bit of soap for 40 gallons of mix. I never used it at high levels, nor did I spray it on my plants. I washed them down with water and let them dry before I put them back under the lamps. The preditor mites was the real exterminator I suspect. They dont harm the plants. The dont build webs and once they eat all the spider mites they eat themselves so no worries.
One love
c
Quote:
Originally Posted by SittinStoney420
NO. Dunking is much more traumatic on the plants than misting. It completely floods the stomata and if your soil is even damp, the results could be devastating.
I lost two out of 12 dunking.
I would cut the dose to reflect:
one capful for one gallon of water. THEN dunk.
Make sure the soap is added AFTER the water not before. Stir well and change the water for every three plant dunkings. DO NOT dunk more than 3 plants in the same water.
Many mites will fall off into the water and using more plants in the same water could just transfer the mites.
While the causes are only speculation, it is theorized the soap doesnt kill the mites until it dries thereby suffocating then rupturing the membranes of the mites.
------------------------------
As for the claim to WIN THE WAR with mites, either its:
1. A lie
2. Misrepresentation
3. Misunderstanding
4. True
As for the TRUE part, man you are the first dude in history to defeat an infestation of spider mites I have ever heard from.
You must be damn good.
For every one mite you see, there are an extimated 100 you don't see.
For every egg you see, there are a thousand you dont see.
But, do not dunk your plants more than once per 14 days.
Every 4 days, spray spray spray and spray.
Floors, containers, soil top, stems, each and every single leaf, bottom and top, all tools, all containers, walls, ceilings, and anything else I forgot.
Yes you can manage the war...but you gotta bust your balls to do it. You must protect your fans.
And, if given enuff time, the predator mites can win the war, but by then the damage is done IF you have true infestation.
An occassional mite will turn into thousands in weeks if not addressed.
Here is a pic I found on the net that shows you can control the war but again, you have to save the fans.
I think the grower said he was using baby shampoo on the leaves AND soil water. Neem is just awfully hard on the tender young leaves. This strain is White Russian...a very potent and pungent strain of tomatos.
The entire lower half of the stems had to be stripped of all growth becasue of the infestation. Its so hard to keep the stuff from the main stem under control so sometimes its easier to jsut strip them since they produce little fruits anyhow.
I know of many people who have beat mites. I had a couple more then a thousand mites. In bud I had approx 400 gallons of soil. A kid who was in the war dropped off a plant for me to care for as he was moving wieght and well the less smell the better when living in a apartment. It had mites that in the heat of my bud room quickly overcame the plant covering it in webs very quickly. He is no longer in the war at lest not in person. R.I.P. A.D. age 22
One love
c
WOW! that sucks sorry to hear that.It should have been a cause,a cause to himselfQuote:
Originally Posted by karmaxul
a mite recipe soak three cigarette in water overnight then boil for three minutes then spray.Have anyone heard these and if u have does it work with perfection.Got the recipe from high timesQuote:
Originally Posted by bluntman2006
Sure nicoten is a natural insecticide. I would use all natural ciggerettes such as natives or senomas which are much cheaper any ways. If you grow it your self to use the most potent strain of tobacco is called rustica. Becarefull as it is very potent and has been used as arrow head poison in mexico and in movies by the CIA to take someone out in a stealth untracable manner. One drop of this stuff so I hear on the skin in pure form will stop the heart in under two minutes. An autopcy will show they were a smoker.
By the way has the new organic issue of high times reached the shelves yet?
One love
c
seven more days it will and thanks for the info too, karmaxuQuote:
Originally Posted by karmaxul
Tabacco juice is a very effective insect killer and repellent.
However, tabacco juice is also a very efficient weed killer.
Tobacco leaf farmers have no pesticide or weed problems. It is because of this weed killing function that I wouldn;t use it.
However, if you do it, a good prep I have read is...
Take about 5 oinches of chewing tobacco, boil in 1 gallon water for 5 minutes...Let cool one hour.
Strain thru some bitches pantyhose or something similar and there is your insecticide.
I would try it on a few leaves first...
But with mites, you gotta get the eggs.
Hell soap and water will kill the mites....but soap / nicotine / neem oil / etc...won;t kill the eggs...
I have heard using sulpher, as you would in mold control, will kill the eggs but have not tried it. The smell is just too bad...
That dimetrious earth or whatever it is can be placed in a bottle and 'poofed' under the leaves...it will slice right thru the eggs...but makes a hell of a mess.
its the eggs...gotta get them as their hatching and right after they hatch...they get really dark prior to hatching. With a really good scope, you can see the discarded shells....disgusting....
Good info Hardon...good to see you again!
Also if your going to try something new on your plant always give it a 24 hour spray test...just spray or apply to a lower branch and wait till the next day to see if it's ok to use on the whole plant.This goes for anything you use on your plants!:stoned:
...but I HATE the borg!!! If I could, I would crucify thier infants. But I would NEVER go so far as to potentionally harming/poisoning people I am attempting to provide MEDICINE for. Holy crap, what's a guy to do...? Due to my location and set up I have IDEAL conditions for meds and mites. This, my fellow growers is how you ERRADICATE these bastards...FOR REAL....
First, if you're deep into flower you're screwed. Cut it down, wrap it in a bag, and pitch it.
Also, assume, unless specified, all recomendations are in reference to vegative states. You must pre grow/between crop bomb with nuclear raid fogger. It's dry/smoke, no residue, and is a synthetic pyrithium base. Think Dr. Doom but instead of .4% active ingredient it's 12.6%. Ummmm, holy crap, YEAH!!!! I cooked some already mite stressed(raped) plants and they got fried. Oh well, better I killed them than the borg. The two moms I REALLY wanted pulled through it. Anyway, set the one off, wait 4/5 days hit it again. Then do a bleaching of your area. YOU MUST HAVE A HEPA or better FILTER on your intake!!!! For my application it wasnt cheap but considering the alternative...you will want to get some panty hose and affix them to your exhaust. Spray both openings where the air is drawn into the ducts,fans on, with your prefered NON OIL BASED miticide.
I, after weeks of research, have decided that hot shot no pest strips will be a part of my preventative maintance. I use these up to the third week of flower. As soon as I see flower transforming into bud they go into doubled up freezer bags in a cool dark place till next round. You cant be clean enough. These are your babies so treat them as such. For those of you that fear poison you immunate your kids right? My pesticide treatments are comparable. You wouldnt let some shady stranger around or pick up your kid. Dont let anyone in your room or cuttings without quarantine measures.
On a personal note, I STRONGLY recomend N E V E R partner up with someone unless you enjoy experiencing going through something similar to divorce. Remember, when it comes to your garden, except for lighting, air exchange, and diligence...LESS IS BEST !!!! Leave them girls be.
"Dont be molesting my girls or I'll fuck you up, man." I couldnt agree more.
Health, happiness, and prosperity to you all.