Advanced Nutrients Comments wanted

this is my first post, but here goes, i have a 40 hole aero system, i am using a 40L res, i have a tri-meter ph/ppm/temp, and a co2 tank, with timers, i use 3 1000w hps with cool tubes i have an internal scrubber on a 4 inch fan, and a 6" fan and can filter exhausting heat for the home in the winter. i will problably start another thread at some point after reading more. my table is about 7' by 4.5'.
that is a little off topic, my buddy has a hydroshop, he uses advanced nutrients,
i can get different nutes elsewhere, but everyone and there cop neighbour goes there. i trust my bud's location more. But i know advanced nutrients calculator is a sales pitch. so i was hoping for input. i can scale down from different res sizes myself, i can do the math, so any input would be much appreciated. ask me anything and i will follow up with better or more pertinent info.
thanks

here is what products i already use, i am using micro, grow, bloom, big bud, voodoo, pirahana, sensi cal mg, carbo load. so if i am missing a must flag me down.

thanks

Dude you've got it well covered...don't over do it and don't burn em.

have had good luck with the Advance Nutrients. Been using them for over a year now. Only difference is I am using the 2 part system and you are three part. No big deal. I also have been using the nutrient calculator and there additives. When growing Blueberry with a 4 bucket Drip hydro grow and 1000Watt light getting around a pound of bud. Am growing Big Bud now and looks like even doing better then Blue was. One thing youu did not mention was b-52 and Humic and fulvic Acids from advance. When use these found a huge difference. Good Luck

Advanced Nutrients:
Have been working with just MMJ for years.dam good over all. your next grow do it. one with yours and one with adanced and see! that is how we find out what we like. and what to add or take from.
each tree has a 1000 w HPS and a #+ from them. so each his own...

I would add some Dutch Master Reverse for the times you find a hermie as well as some Bush Master from Humbolt County it's the same thing as superbud but cheaper. It will stop plants from growing taller and outgrowing your area. It's a must for anyone doing SOG type of grows.

You sure have plenty of light I only use a single 1000w HPS on a track mover to cover the same number of plants. You should be fine but you should also have some other products for the times shit happends. Gnatrol is another product you should have around just in case.

Just make sure you are not using nutrients that cancel each other out. Like H²O² and can kill bacteria if you are using enzime type of products. It's important that all your nutrients play well together.

If you can get some of their sensi pro you may want to try that. It's a package for each week of growing and very easy to use. Problem is it's expensive as well but it's said to be the best product they produce.

thanks i will pick up these other items, but does anyone have a custom mixing ratio?
i just think having 1700-2000ppm is a little high, is it not?
this is what they suggest

it is a little high unless you in the last week of flower.

Next question is that number after all the boosters are added to the NPK or just the NPK? The carts are for NPK reading btw.

well, i did some research and found i should try a light feeding with the 2+ formula, i was using heavy feeding schedule for high yield formula, i would love input on ratings of the 2. i found that with the heavy feeding high yield, i get massive buds. but i did get a gnat problem, used h2o2, killed them all. i think the pirahna sensisym tarantula mix should help with that. I am in canada, i have been told gnatrol is not available, and help with that?

you said something about the math for smaller res'...just change the value and whether or not you use standard or metric measurements and you don't have to do any math...and,

I use the light feeding formula and produce massive buddage...I substitute Liquid karma for B-52 and Fulvic Acid, and use 50% Humic acid...I also use calmag+ from botanicare
AN products...3 part, voodoo juice, bud blood, big bud, I use Hygrozyme instead of sensi-zyme, although I like the sensi-...overdrive and final phase.

One thing I like also about the 3-part is the fact that you can substitute gh 3-part components for the AN 3-part if necessary, because they are the same thing...later.lw

Latewood
Thanks, seems like sound advise.

As for the math, I was thinking i might get someone who deviates from the calculator, and may give specific feed quantity to reservoir size.

But this Liquid Karma, i can use this instead. I'll look for it. Is calmag+ the same as sensi-cal mg?

Zandor
Does this Dutch Master Reverse stop Hermies from going hermie on me, or help prevent them from going hermie.
Should I use the Bushmaster as a replacement for an AN product, or just add it to my regime?

I will tell you that you can use the dosage listed on each and every bottle. this will be a moderate to heavy feeding program...sometimes it will be more or less than the master recipe states...they are somewhat close, but in each week of flower you increase nutes by 10-20% each week until after 5th week, then you decrease same values for a couple of weeks...Of course in week 6-7 you have changed from big bud to>>> overdrive...week 8, you flush.
Of course, If growing from seed, then you could go as long as week 10-12 for some strains...you just keep the same value as week 5 until you want to transition to finish,

I have made it a habit of rounding down to a slightly less potent mix, but still run in the 1500-1600' (ppm's) during heavy flowering phase.

some people use 50% mixes...and I even know of some who use a 33% solution. Either way consistency is the key...You can grow a nice crop with 3-part and liquid karma by itself...but, I like the extra girth I get from using my mix...

I believe that your AN calmag and calmag+ would be very similar.

Although I am a supporter of AN, they did copy many products from other co's
this is a fact, they even admit it/use this info in their literature...

So in closing, remember, you can use the values off the bottle...they are listed as per liter or per gallon...just multiply by the amount of gallons then round down to a comfortable amount...Rounding down saves you a some nutes down the road, and it doesn't hurt your crop at all...hope this helps...lw

Reverse is meant to stop a plant from turning hermie once you see it has begun. When you see the first sign of your female plant turn hermie Reverse will stop it from turning ever more hermie thus no pollen to produce.

Bush Master is designed for SOG system or grows where height is a problem. It will stop the plant from growing any taller.

Both product are expensive.

By the reverse do you mean feminizer, i could not find dutch master reverse, but i did find something called feminizer.

What are your tips on tap water versus RO water?
If possible could someone get details on what the difference is?

If i haven't noticed a problem with tap water, do you think i would notice better buds if i switch to RO?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by knowledge

By the reverse do you mean feminizer, i could not find dutch master reverse, but i did find something called feminizer.

What are your tips on tap water versus RO water?
If possible could someone get details on what the difference is?

If I haven't noticed a problem with tap water, do you think i would notice better buds if I switch to RO?

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You would have to have your water checked to find out if it contained harmful metals...If you have city water, especially urban city water...RO is the way to go:thumbsup:

"they" Dutch Master changed the name, from what I understand...

tap water is what it is. city water has chlorine and such...bad...ro water
is purified water you get by running your water through reverse-osmosis filter.
If you use RO unit, then you need to add calmag back into water in order to balance these and other minerals, removed by R-O...did this answer your Q?