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A couple local growers are having issues with Spyder Mites. One is using a "tea" based product that does not seem to eliminate these pests, but seems to "control" them. Is there any product that people have had sucess with in controlling these pests (No I don't want to use Agent Orange..... LOL) as we are keeping this product "clean".
Muchas thanks for any suggestions! :confused:
check out the FAQ section.
1. loweringthe temperature is vital... anything over 75 degrees and you are in for a major war.
2. super toxic shit called AVID.. only sure way to get rid of mites..
3. some natural predetors.. expensive and must be brought in regularly.
4. you can not just win a battle here a battle there.. mites are FOR REAL.. unike hard on..
MITES are amazing creatures that go dormant when the temp drops below 65 but can stay dormant for 1 year or more.. temp goes up they come back.. now you can't drop the temp below 65 because that will effective photosynthisis.. but don't let it go above 75.
5. if you are indoor. you can jack the C02 levels up.. way way way up.... and maintain that level.. this will suffoctae and kill the bastards..
6. but it is a battle that only the most dedicated farmers are able to fight.. and few farners win..very very very few.. most jsut fight for LIFE!!!!!!!
and now you KNOW
i love you.. but I am having trouble loving spider mites!! yikes
The thing with spider mites is the eggs. They will hatch 4 to 7 days after most treatments.
The key ingredient that needs to be in any remedy for killing those eggs, is Dicofol.
Developed for industry. Can be used up to 7 days before harvest/injestion.
I found this product Kelthane and used it about 4 weeks ago. Watched eggs following treatment and sure enough they were nuked too. 100%.
Notes: I had caught the problem in a fairly early stage. Two branches only. If colonies have infested more branches and into flowers, then your results may vary.
Stuff is toxic and when you treat you cannot leave a single surface unsprayed, leaftops, leafbottoms, soil, anyplace.
The Kelthane did burn/shrivvel plant pistils some, but in early flowering anyway they've come back strong and purdy.
COOL - nice info REZ!!!!!
Lanie, if that shit kills bugs it will kill you.. make sure you cover your mouth and hands and all that shit.. take this shit seriously....
good luck : )
Thanks everyone for the suggestions! Didn't know about the temp issue, as I have a constant temperature of 85 degree F, and we seem to have this problem just in the budding stages. Maybe we could lower the temp and reduce the problems. I have tried the tea and it just moves the mites into the buds (hey, maybe the buds will weigh more then and increase my yields...... LOL!!!!!). I am looking at moving into a hydro operation and sanitizing everything with ozonated water before my next crop.
New Product called mite kill works better then any other mite pesticide i have seen kills eggs and mites, non toxic as well
Lanie,
The Kelthane is only $8.
I would still use this stuff if I was even to have a more advanced outbreak.
Didn't mean to make it sound less effective than it is.
Do not delay and I would not mess around or be distracted by the temps methods. To kill these things with temp and humidity methods would require the equivalent of putting the plant(s) out for at least 7 rainy days in late October somewhere north of New Jersey.
SMites are a breed above other kinds of mites. They are designed for survival and have adapted to be immune to most pesticides and several of the miticides.
They can spread too fast if you don't get them all watch for and catch outbreaks of hatched eggs the rest of the grow.
To kill the eggs and get the problem behind you for good, use the Kelthane.
http://boards.cannabis.com/showthread.php?t=31990
http://boards.cannabis.com/showthread.php?t=33571
lower temp,neem oil works as an organic pestiside and bomb the room once then again 4 days later to get the eggs.
I saw a guy bomb his plants everyday for 6 days.. 3 different types of boms.. used neem oil, and einstein oil....
the room was 90 degrees.. and the mites slowed down for about 3 weeks...
but guess what, they are back.... FIGHT for your life
Kelthane.
90 degrees saya it all
Yeah okay I guess "90 degrees" says whatever "all" is still locked up inside JDogs understanding.
JDog. See this ----> .
It's known as a period.
Woof.
You understood what he meant, right?
Please tell us you knew what you'd miss if you skipped Mental Telepathy.
Explain what you know JDog. We cannot read your mind?
I'm sure you also meant to convey the importance of Relative Humidity and the resiliance of Spider Mites as well, no?
Which do they prefer JDog. High or low humidity? Please we need you.
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Please man ,Whats with the hostility ,I'm just trying to help.(period just for you)What the fuck does grammer have to do with post info...cheap shot .
Anyway now that I vented if you read up above the temp should be around 70-75(slows to stops breeding of the bastards)then bomb twice in that week and neem the shit out of every bottom leaf and stock and all.If tyis doesn't work I don't what to tell ya...then battle will last a week or two so get ready.
Kelthane looks good if it's way out of control or if youdont mind the chem.'sI've heard of Dicofol(1 of the first I heard of)I'd use it if I needed to.
Cool, thanks everyone for the suggestions!!! We had a signifcant drop in our temps as I installed cool tube reflectors (good for a 8 degree drop - thank you!!!) as well as with the winter onset we are running about 68-74 degrees. The mites appear to have gone on vacation as they are no where to be seen, but I'm sure the little bastards will be back in the spring. We also started spraying with sulphur for mildew which may have helped as well as put in a co2 generation system. Thanks again everyone for their input!!!
God I love hearing about people getting rid of the problem (even if its not permanent). They are the nastiest thing I have ever encountered. Aside from the suggestions already made, I spray with Einstein Oil (neem oil with sesame oil in it) every week. The Einstein kills a lot more eggs then Neem oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lanietheberner
I would definitely agree that temperature is the most important aspect. Take care of ventillation and temperature and then you can really take advantage of other methods.
My friend uses a product called FloraMite. Its fairly nasty but can be used in a very diluted form. Its hard to find since it is only sold typically in 1 quart amounts for about $140. Some hydro shops dilute it themselves and sell small amounts for around $10-$12. Its less then a teaspoon per gallon and pretty much is guaranteed to get rid of the problem.
AVID, Kills mites dead. Don't mess around, spray the plants with this stuff before they go to bud and the mites are gone for good. AVID is a systematic miticide, which means it continues to kill for months.
I have heard of a lot of people using Dichlorvoros (the chemical in no pest strips) and it works for some. The key is how much air exchange is happening in the room. If the no pest strip can be in the room and the chemical that it gives off reaches a high enough saturation in the room it will work. My room always exchanged air to fast for the no pest strips to work.
AVID always works though.
Has anyone ever used a sulphur based product? I was using some stuff to eliminate some mildew issues and the bag label indicates it will also work on mites... Just wondering??????
I got some kelthane and used it on my kids @2.5 months ago, and the little bastard are still gone!!! I want to thank everyone who made some suggestions.
Our yields are up by 30%, wahooooooooooo!!!!
The only bad thing I've found is that it's kelthane is a discontinued product, and I was able to find a quart, no more available, which is ok because this should last for a very looooooong time!
There was/is a member here Opie Yutts, can do a search for his battle wit 'mites. He SWORE by using pest strips. Said it ridded him of the problem completely and none of his family grew extra fingers or toes:D
b0nger
I understand that you want to rid yourself of spider mites using only natural methods. That's great, but as far as I know, it will not happen. Not permanantly any way. Believe me, I've tried. They may dissapear for a few days or weeks, but they'll be back.
I'm tired of trying to convince people about this, but you will be battleing them forever unless you agent orange their ass. If you want to rid yourselves of them forever, you can do one of two things, or both. Bomb, or Pest Strip. Both work, pest strip is by far easier, but bomb may be better if you have a big room. Search pest strip, read, employ, relax and watch your pest free plants grow.
People who are too pig-headed and know it all-ish swear that pest strips cannont possibly work. People who spend the $8 and 30 seconds to give it a try now enjoy pest free plants for good.
Good luck. I hate the little bastards. By far the worst plant problem, unless you use toxic chemicals.
Anyone had any luck with "Don't Bug Me" by Foxfarms?