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has anyone measured the amount of water taken in by the plant when they water it? i would like to kno this, as most plant would have a relative similarity in the amounts, and it would let me kno if i overwatered/underwatered..
i'm planning on using a spray/mist system.. most likely i'll be watering it manually.. best way to do somethin is by urself :)
I am assuming you are talking about hydroponics since it is in the hydroponic thread. Water intake depends on many factors, but the major factor is heat. If its hot as hell your plants are going to drink a shit load as their sweating it out. I have 4 plants that are using about 4 gallons a day. So a gallon a day for each plant. Those are White Widows in the 3rd week of flowering. Hope this helps.
holy shit.... i'ma be doin alot of sprayin... (*decides to fuck the manual way n go electric)
yea.. in regs, ppl usually just water it til the soil's most and its good for a while, and the water sinks to the trap area of the pot..
hydroponics use measurements. so i wanted to log.. but a knowing u use a gallon for each plant, thats pretty helpful.. when do YOU water your plants, and for how long?
I think we are on a differet page here man. Hydroponics is going to use a different amount than a soil grow. Soil grow, your going to lose alot to evaporation and run-off. You should post in a different area. I was quoting 1 gallon per plant for a bubbler system, where there is no evaporation of water, just from what the plant is (transpiring, perspiring) Whatever the hell you call it. But again, it has to do with the heat and humidity levels.
In hydroponics or dirt?Quote:
Originally Posted by sheist
Hydroponics I run my drippers 24/7.
i was wonder the same thing as well to be honest, i am using nft and have set the system 15 mins on and 45 off....should i keep it on all the time?
NFT use more of a ebb & flow type of feeding schedule. You don't have a lot of room for roots to hang like most drip systems. NFT only having a few inches before the roots bottom out means they will be sitting in running water 24/7 and not have much of a chance to breath. Roots sitting in water run a big chance of rotting, or holding pockets of imbalanced nutrients in your tray.Quote:
Originally Posted by newgroweroldsmoker
Play with different feeding schedules, like 15-on 15-off or 30-on 15-off or 15-on 30-off record how they do with a few day's test. In about 10 day's you will know how that strain does with feeding.
Different strains react differently to different feeding schedules so trial and error on your part is required.
Also track the Ph with each schedule too.
ok zandor thanx a lot man you just saved me:)
ok, one more question now......the night has passed, got up and checked the plants.........to be honest here i had let's say a small problem with my EC because (the stupid ass that i am) i did not calibrate the EC meter right away when i bought it and had some nute burn on some plants....i did the calibration only yesterday to realise that my EC on both trays was 2.3 (a bit high huh?)....anyways after calibration and adjusting of the liquid on the tanks the levels of EC where stabilised at 1.5 at both trays with pH at 5.7 and 5.9 respectively....the nute burns have started dissappearing from the plants in question and all 23 plants look great..
now, i have changed the watering schedule into 15mins on and 30mins off and somehow it feels just right for this stage...i can clearly see the roots growing large into the channels that are located on the NFT tray and they look great....no signs of browning (rot) or anything unusual...also i leveled the trays a bit up so as they drain well after every watering as the rockwool cubes leave some hair from them , hair that goes straight to the drain hole and block it which in return does not allow the water to drain and thus transforming the tray into a ''swimming pool'' for the roots....
anyways, should i top the nutrient levels in case EC falls a bit? for example after tonight the EC has dropped by 0,05 in both tays (from 1.5 to 1.45)......i am going to change the water in the tanks on monday as it is scheduled for that day....pH is at acceptable leves at 5.9 and 5.8 respectively, no need to adjust that :)
i guess i will stick to that watering schedule (zandor thanx again) for the entire veg state and when i pass into flowering i will change it to 15mins on and 15 mins off. i suppose that the plants will drink more water then;)
take care
NGOS:)
Ok I think what you are asking is if you refill the reservoir with nutrients when the level drops? Is that close?
You do a full nutrient change every 7-10 day's. It's safe if you use just Ph water on day 11 then on day 12 go back to nutrients. That will keep you from having lock up problems but it does use more water. If you can't do a quick flush after each water change that's ok you don't need to but it's a good idea if you have the water.
Now your EC or PPM will change after you put it into the reservoir and the plants use up some nutrients and deposits more back into the res. So the reading you take on day one is only good for day one. There should not be a change of more then a few hundred PPM points from any 24-hour period. Make a plot chart and track your PPM/EC you will see the pattern.
If the level drops and you need more water in-between changes then just use PH adjusted RO water to bring it back up to the normal line.
Does that answer your question?
i don't have RO water
pHed water from the tap does the trick?
i am turning off the big lights to take a picture i do not see any particular problems now that everything is fine.....the EC in both tanks is 1.5 and the pH is 5.9 and 5.75.....look at the pics :)
today i bought 2.2 pounds of active yeast lol i will need a lot of sugar for that;)
i prepared 4 gallons of warm water 25grams (5 teasp) of active yeast and 2 kilograms of sugar (4.4 pounds).....the room has already started smelling yeast, i love that smell, one of my favourites.....
i will prepare and a few bottles as well and leave them around.....
i plan to change the water and the nuts on monday and i believe that everything will go better....i have already changed it twice in 13 days that the plants are in the tray, plus if you notice the holes on the one tray, you will clearly see that there are 24 holes....
which makes me think that i can do SOG's from now on.....
in the beginning i had them all 23 in this tray, then i seperated them....anyway, here's the pics...in some plants appear nute burns, even some of the big ones show nute burns, but, nevertheless now all 23 of them are as healthy as a bull (i do not expect to grow them all though)...
even hydro allows trial and error and being honest i prefer it from soil because the plants respond quicker to the changes in pH, nutes levels etc...simply by looking at them i can tell if they're happy or not
if the problem was a persistent one, then with the change of the watering schedule, it would grow, as the roots are more often in the water with the nuts....instead the plants look a lot happier
anyway i am after 10-12 females out of those 23 beans and to be honest i plan to eliminate the 'weak' ones, maybe;)
thanx again, Zandor you're the MAN here
NGOS:)
PS..my cam still sucks :)
if i'm right all the small ones by monday will be considerably bigger than of today:)
my bottom line in the end of the day is that in order to succed in hydro you need ph from 5.5-6.2, EC that ranges from 1.4-1.7 during vegetation and 1.7-2.0 during flowering and change the water that's in the tank every 7 days to be safe;)
the rest variables that affect the grow are the same as with soil -lighting,temperature,humidity, air quality, CO2 etc.
what do you think?
my plants drinks about 250ml everyday and they are about into 4week of veg but im sure it will soar through the roof once they start to flower, i marked on the side of my containers the suitable amount of water for each container which helps me out alot...i jus have bubblers nice and simple for me! :D
i can't calculate at this point where i am how much water they drink
Nice job oldsmoker, you are way past new grower now.
Just keep light from getting to the water rez. Those clear cups will not work.
Thanx Zandor,
your comments mean a great deal to me:)
those plastic cups are not clear, i have them filled with water and now i am thinking to fill them with the liquid that i have created yesterday, that is the yeast with the sugar;)
finally, after the last posting yesterday night, i added another 2.2 pounds of sugar in there.....i think that this way i will have a continuous production of CO2 for at least 4 weeks in there, maybe up to six weeks....
take care man and enjoy the weekend:)
NGOS:)
I used to use yeast bottles in my hydro setup. When they start to get taller, it's a chore to try to get them that co2 from a cup or bottle.
If you continue to use yeast and sugar, try inserting some airstone hose into a bottle cap (screw-on style) from a soda bottle and use the soda bottle as your yeast/sugar container. direct the hose pointing down over the center of your plants like a drip style co2 injector. It's a fun project at first, but you will question it's contribution when you have large, mature plants. I switched to tanks of co2 with a regulator on a timer. I don't mind the task of refilling tanks and traveling to do so. Anything for my girls.
i was thinking to actually fill the entire room with CO2 if possible by increasing the number of bottles that contain yeist and sugar....even if the bottom leaves take CO2 when the plants get taller , even that would be a gain, don't you agree?