My digital ballast just failed mid 12/12 in the 1st week of flower.
Bought a new digital ballast last week. Tonight it went off 6 times in total, over a period of 3 hours (about 2 minutes a time and for 5 mins while I removed the new lighting and put my old cfls back in). This is a stable strain that doesn't seem to be prone to stress (i have been growing it for 18 months). I think my girls will be OK, but I would be nice if someone who has had this happen to them, could provide some reassurance.
My digital ballast just failed mid 12/12 in the 1st week of flower.
It's the processor in the ballast.. What brand is it?
My digital ballast just failed mid 12/12 in the 1st week of flower.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaGrown
It's the processor in the ballast.. What brand is it?
Exolux Dimmable Ballast 300/400/600/660
My digital ballast just failed mid 12/12 in the 1st week of flower.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatJay
Exolux Dimmable Ballast 300/400/600/660
Is it under warranty? That is a european ballast.. I can't tell you what may be wrong with it.. Totally different insides.. Versus a USA model. Sorry man!
My digital ballast just failed mid 12/12 in the 1st week of flower.
I took it back to the store and got a new ballast. The original bulb was emitting a high pitched sound, so they replaced that aswell.
The guy serving me said he personally was uncomfortable with the idea of running a 250w bulb at 300w (This ballast is sold as being able to use 250,400 and 600w bulbs). So if I have any more issues I will use my 400w bulb and run that at 300. If it cannot run 250w bulbs I will probably take it back and buy something else.
My digital ballast just failed mid 12/12 in the 1st week of flower.
Well..... It failed AGAIN. Looks like running a 250w bulb at 300w is a bad idea. You would think that a hydroponics specialist that supplies schools. colleges and government would know better.
My digital ballast just failed mid 12/12 in the 1st week of flower.
Lumatek switchable 600's work great for me. I would recommend to stop overdriving your bulbs. If you get a switchable ballast, get a matching bulb. 600 with a 600. I use Digilux bulbs with the Lumatek and can run them at 600, 400 and 360 watts.
My digital ballast just failed mid 12/12 in the 1st week of flower.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmer Rich
I would recommend to stop overdriving your bulbs.
I agree, I was not comforatable overdriving a bulb by 20%, but I trusted in the advice of my grow shop. They got it wrong this time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmer Rich
If you get a switchable ballast, get a matching bulb. 600 with a 600. I use Digilux bulbs with the Lumatek and can run them at 600, 400 and 360 watts.
I can only run 250w atm due to temp issues (I have an extract fan but no intake fan), I think I will be able to step up to 400 if I get an intake fan. Lumatek don't do a ballast that switches between 250/400.
I have put a 400w Son-T in for now running at 300w (the 250's that started failing after a week were Son-T's as well) Do you know what effect that will have on the bulbs spectrum? I ask this, because I now have a decision to make and I am not sure which way to go. I think I have the following options......
1, Keep the kit I have already bought and run a 400w Son-T @ 300w (least hassle)
2, Return this kit and buy a 250/400w switchable from another supplier as this shop does not sell 250/400w switchable ballasts (most hassle)
3, Return everything and go back to growing with 500w of CFL's
Improving my induction/extraction is not going to be straightforward, so I might not be able to ever switch up to 400w of HPS lighting. Running a 400w bulb @ 300w (if it doesn't effect the spectrum too much) might be my best option. My grow shop says that because Son-T's produce light in the orange/red spectrum, running at lower wattages does not affect the light spectrum as much as it would if I were using Growlux/Sunmaster bulbs (this is my flowering tent).
I have one other issue aswell, all the bulbs I have had so far have made a high pitched whining sound, which is doing my head in. When I took the 1st lot back they said that this wasn't normal. Do all HPS bulbs make high pitched whining noises when switching on?
My digital ballast just failed mid 12/12 in the 1st week of flower.
I doubt that light interruptions like that would cause hermies. Simulated clouds, yeah? It would take an extended effort. I believe that light leaks are a much greater threat.
I have a powerhouse magnetic ballast. It runs nice and clean with an 8 year warranty. Hard to beat that! 400w and I run a ceramic metal halide. Love it so far.
Hey PhatJay, I was looking at the feeding chart in the album under your profile. I left you a message. Nice little chart there although I use botanicare coupled with FFOF.
My digital ballast just failed mid 12/12 in the 1st week of flower.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatJay
Well..... It failed AGAIN. Looks like running a 250w bulb at 300w is a bad idea. You would think that a hydroponics specialist that supplies schools. colleges and government would know better.
Actually you're overdriving the bulb , bad idea all around. Additionally you may well wish to take a close look at what sort of RF signature that fancy digital ballast is emitting. If I have to elaborate on this factor say so. It would well behoove you to consider it.
If you wish to operate at multiple wattages it's a good idea to purchase the bulbs for each rather than overdrive or underdrive a given wattage bulb.
My digital ballast just failed mid 12/12 in the 1st week of flower.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatJay
I agree, I was not comforatable overdriving a bulb by 20%, but I trusted in the advice of my grow shop. They got it wrong this time.
I can only run 250w atm due to temp issues (I have an extract fan but no intake fan), I think I will be able to step up to 400 if I get an intake fan. Lumatek don't do a ballast that switches between 250/400.
I have put a 400w Son-T in for now running at 300w (the 250's that started failing after a week were Son-T's as well) Do you know what effect that will have on the bulbs spectrum? I ask this, because I now have a decision to make and I am not sure which way to go. I think I have the following options......
1, Keep the kit I have already bought and run a 400w Son-T @ 300w (least hassle)
2, Return this kit and buy a 250/400w switchable from another supplier as this shop does not sell 250/400w switchable ballasts (most hassle)
3, Return everything and go back to growing with 500w of CFL's
Improving my induction/extraction is not going to be straightforward, so I might not be able to ever switch up to 400w of HPS lighting. Running a 400w bulb @ 300w (if it doesn't effect the spectrum too much) might be my best option. My grow shop says that because Son-T's produce light in the orange/red spectrum, running at lower wattages does not affect the light spectrum as much as it would if I were using Growlux/Sunmaster bulbs (this is my flowering tent).
I have one other issue aswell, all the bulbs I have had so far have made a high pitched whining sound, which is doing my head in. When I took the 1st lot back they said that this wasn't normal. Do all HPS bulbs make high pitched whining noises when switching on?
Option 2 may be the most hassle for you , but it also solves your problems the quickest and will prove to be the most effective route in the long run. I don't much care for Lumatek ballasts , ymmv on that one but I won't have one in the place.
Research the bulbs yourself *never* at any juncture completely trust what a hydro shop or any given nutrient company , seed company etc. tells you. I might suggest that you take a close look at what's utilised in the commercial greenhouse trades and then compare pricing structure and cost effectiveness with the "hydro store" , such research will prove to be highly enlightening. What you find may flat tick you off at certain segments of the industry though.
