My leafs just went droopy and there's some sort of white stuff on them. One of the leafs feels dry.
I misted the soil this morning and it feels moist under the top part.
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My leafs just went droopy and there's some sort of white stuff on them. One of the leafs feels dry.
I misted the soil this morning and it feels moist under the top part.
Whoa....something went terribly wrong here....
Fill out the troubleshooting form....
My guess is too much soil and too much moisture.... What size pot(s) you using???
CGI::::::
the soil looks like it has alot of wood chips ect. Could mean acidic ph. I have had good luck with scotts premium potting soil. just add a little perlite. the best commercial potting soil i have used is the southern states brand, comes from factory with extra perlite and it seems to have what cannabis like in it.Some say MG is good to , but never used it. But fox farm is the best.
That plant ain't gonna do much more but,die.. I'm sorry to say. The tap root is tapped-out. It's been burned in that hot soil. I'll bet the ph is off the charts in that soil.
This is some of the worst news to hear,I'm sure. Just trying to save you some frustration in trying to save such a far gone plant..More beans would be in order at this point!
Ga.
This was no burn soil with very low nutes, about 30% perlite which I flushed prior to starting it. It was at all times in a dixie cup. I can't think of anything I could have done better.
Moved some of the top soil around and found that the roots still look fine. I think I might just have to give up on soil. Nothing good comes of it. Maybe this strain is very soil sensitive but I doubt. That white stuff is like dust.
If it doesn't recover after spraying it with backing soda water, I'm going to do the next auto WW in hydro.
The hydro bucket started growing rice from probably a grain that fell in the Hydroton Clay pebbles from some Chinese worker's lunch so I know it works much better than this.
PH and TDS are also much easier to control.
Hydro is a VERY different beast.... But if you're confident about it, go for it!!! I myself can't wait to start hydro again....
But from personal experience, I'd suggest at least one successful soil grow before starting hydro.... Why??? Because hydro is waaaaaaaaay less forgiving than soil....and if things go south in hydro, you might just give up....and we don't want that do we....
Have you filled out a troubleshooting form??? If you haven't, fill one out so we can see where you might be going wrong....
CGI::::::
Here is my advice. Shelve the soil and nutes you have. Buy a bag of fox farm ocean forest and some seedling mix - sunshine mix 4. And use that. It is just so easy. What strain are you working with again? Get something that is easy to grow this time - just about any kush, big bang, lemon skunk, something that will be forgiving. That was the key to my first successful runs b/c god knows those poor plants never should have survived let alone produce significant product! Perhaps you have good chemistry skill but otherwise, hydro is going to piss you off. Screw it up at any point and you will end up with a bucket of slimy roots. If you go hydro do lots of reading! Keep with it. It just takes a bit of perseverance.
E-indoor
E-soil
E-specific medium - coconut fiber, fine bark
CSL-Soil type/brand - Sunshine Advanced Rain Forest blend - flushed it before planting
SCL-Anything you have added to the soil - RO water with an 8th calmag bringing ppm to 78 from 10
runoff pH 6.5
E-Water source -RO water
E-Source water pH - 5.5 (increased it with ph UP to 6.5)
E-Age of plant 10 days from seedling
E-Type of fertilizer - calmag supplement only
E-Rate of application (if hydro, this is your PPM number, preferably after each component is added) - with watering, once a day mist, and then once every two days mist of 1 inch of the top soil
E-Lighting source and distance from plant 2 daylight CFLs ~30 watt each 10 inches away, 90 W LED 15 inches away, enclosed in mylar walls
E-Air temperature (both day and night if you are running a dark period) 75-82
E-Air % Relative humidity 50%
E-Lighting schedule 18/6
E-Type of ventilation your room has - 6 inch fan around intake and carbon filter exhaust
The auto blueberry I'm doing in hydro has developed the same white dust with droopy leafs and yellowing after a couple of weeks. The roots look beautiful. The temperatures got to about 85-88 for about 6 hours so it's probably a source. The white powder smells like cheese.
I tried the dishsoap/baking soda/RO water/vegetable oil spray to remedy the white dust and hopefully it will recover but I can't tell if it will help.
Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
The PPM is about 200 and Ph is 5.8. I adjust the Ph on a daily basis.
Two growing methods....same white dusty powder??? Is there anyone else with access to them when you're not around??? Just want to rule out the possibility of sabotage....
Curious....where did you come up with the dish soap, RO water, Veg oil, baking soda "remedy"???
Any possibility that something you are spraying on them is creating the white powder???
What hydro method you utilizing???
CGI::::::
The link below is where I found the powder mildew remedy. It has all possible signs of powder mildew. It's a white fine powder and it stinks like cheese. It was on one plant in the same enclosure and now it's on this one. The other plant had died but I left it in the room hoping it would recover for a while. No such luck. It dried off and then died soon after. When I did the autopsy, the roots were dry and flimsy looking but still white so definitely no root rot that time. On that one I tried a variation of this remedy but without the oil and soap and I did it while the light was shining on it so that might have led to it drying out, and dying.
The hydro method is a bucket with an air pump with hydroton clay pebbles as the medium. I changed the solution too because it was about time and I just wanted to make sure everything is clean.
I just wish I knew what to do to get past week 2.
Baking Soda Spray for Powdery Mildew - Organic Powdery Mildew Control
Update: I found that the carbon air filter in my room had the ozone generating ionizer turned on by mistake. Could the ozone be the cause of this damage?
Caught this link from your link: GreenCure fungicide for curing and preventing powdery mildew, blights, molds and other plant diseases Did you check it out? Is that what it looks like?
Whatever it is. Sounds like your grow area is contaminated and you need to clean it all up. Use new soil. etc. . .
(perhaps the Chinese worker dropped more than rice?)
Also....be careful with how much of the spray formula that you spray on the little one in the dwc bucket.... If any of that should happen to seep down into the rez....well let's just say that you don't want ANY of that in your rez....
I've experienced powder mold....your RH has to be waaaaaaaaay higher than 50%.... Talking like constant wet and muggy conditions for PM.... You sure your RH is at 50%....
The ozone generating ionizer is not causing this.... Where does your exhaust go??? Recycled into the same area or does it go outside??? How much, how often does your grow space get fresh from outside air???
CGI::::::
The RH was around 40% and Temps 88 F around that time. Air goes outside of the enclosure, a small oscillating fan was blowing around slowly, window was open at the time so all air was from outside.
It looks like the powder mildew is gone this morning and even the smell of it has subsided. Does the plant look like it could recover? Last one didn't.
[align=center]Attachment 280232 Attachment 280233 Attachment 280234[/align]
Sorry to be the one to say it....but....that lil one's been dead for at least 24hrs....
On your next go, don't try the "remedy".... And like already mentioned....clean and sterilize your grow space....
Where do you have your RH gauge monitoring???
CGI::::::
Don't even use that hydroton again.. I hate that,My Friend! I just lost a plant I had in reveg. My fault! I hacked the rootball a bit much as well as waited too long to trim the rootball. So.. She's DEAD.
I feel ya pain!
Ga.
>On your next go, don't try the "remedy".... And like already mentioned....clean and sterilize your grow space....
It already looked like that when I found it with the white powder on it.
> Where do you have your RH gauge monitoring???
On the bucket.
It's strange that it happened before with the soil and now with the hydroton. Must have been in the environment. I wonder what I can do to sterilize everything without introducing nasty chemicals.
One more question. Could this be strain-related? Could this "auto-blueberrry" just be smoke-and-mirrors?
It's definitely not the plant or the strains fault.... It's operator error....Quote:
Originally Posted by gigimarga
10% bleach - 90% water makes for good cleaning....warm water.... Clean every freaking thing!!!
CGI::::::
Come to think of it, the only thing that was common to them besides the space was the nutrition with calmag. This happened within about 24 hours after the roots hit the solution. The common ingredients in both were calmag (8th recommended dose), which I was using so that I make up for the lack of it in the RO water, and the bat shit in bigbloom and the rain forest soil. Could the calmag or bat crap have been contributing factors? What is the ideal start solution for hydro? Is big bloom ok? The total PPM was only ~170 in hydro and about 50 on top of the soil. (last one because of the calmag)
Besides cleaning everything, what else could I do to prevent that disease? I'm going to go hydro bubble bucket/aeroponics/fogoponics in a brand new grow tent next.
You mentioned rain forest soil....which brand exactly do you have???Quote:
Originally Posted by gigimarga
CGI::::::
Just a quick side-shot here! If you are convinced your problem is "mold", I would hedge away from a hydro grow! Due to humidity and control! Just a thought! pr
>CanGroIt: You mentioned rain forest soil....which brand exactly do you have???
Sunshine Advanced Rain Forest.
>paintreat: I would hedge away from a hydro grow! Due to humidity and control!
I think my main problem was air circulation in very small space (30x30x13). The duct work on my new tent should take care of that problem. Humidity here where I am is almost non-existent and the powdery mildew occurred when my RH was around 30% in soil with minimal watering of the plant in the dixie cup! Another thing I might skip on is the CFLs in addition to the 90W LED. I thought that more blue spectrum light would be good but that only compounded the heat and lack of circulation problem.
I'm going to do some heirloom tomatoes on my aeroponics/fogoponics grow first on next attempt. The system is almost built. These designer seeds are WAAY too expensive to trial and error on.
Post the strain you are interested in and what your are looking for in your medication. Ask which seeds are best for a first grow. There are many very well experienced growers here that may help you choose a "fool proof" (almost) seed. Good luck, I prefer homegrown anything as to store purchased! pr
Even if you could salvage it , it would be useless. Mold deforms it after a while. As it did to 32 of my babies in 1 hit. trashed em
Quote:
Originally Posted by gigimarga
And the humidity in your room is? You will not kill powder mildew or grey mold until you control the humidity. And forget the baking soda , if you to use a bicarb type spray then utilise *potassium* bicarb , it's a bit more efficient than sodium bicarb...........
Look this up....SNS244 , get some. If you still have it after that your next solution will unfortunately be something heavy such as Eagle 20.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsby
OP...reread this ^^^^^^ , and then read it again. It's excellent advice. Don't even *think* of hydro until you can control a soil grow,
Quote:
Originally Posted by gigimarga
Bring you temps down a bit 70-76 and bring the RH to 40% and see what happens. And ditch the coco for now. When you go to soil keep it simple.....and **make sure you don't overfeed**.
Do you have a fan on these plants? Remember that you need not only ventilation you also need air movement , get an oscillating fan if you don't have one..
Quote:
Originally Posted by gigimarga
And why would you consider it to be strange?
Look I'm going to be blunt here and it may sound harsh. And I stated it in previous messages and so have others. You;re in over your head with hydro at this time.
Go educate yourself on some of the basics , powder mildew is a SPORE for crying out loud so of COURSE it will be in your environment if you don't take steps.
SOME organics such as you attempted to copy will prove advantageous at some times , however you're quite simply not there yet.
At this juncture your best solution IS the most toxic unfortunately, Go and get yourself some Eagle 20 and *BEFORE* you take another plant in that room tear the room down and spray *everythings down* and I do mean everything , trays , walls etc. , clean *every* utensil , get rid of ALL previously used medium ALL of it.
Air circulation is critical , see to it or see the same problem again. An don't let that room see 88 degrees , additionally you need to get the humidity monitor off the pot , it'll give skewed readings there , you're not measuring it at the plant , you're measuring the room , unless you wish to run a buncha monitors.
And now we get to the part that you really won't care for.........take the auto-genetics and toss them on the compost heap where they belong , they're junk aimed at keeping folks enslaved to the seed companies , along with being aimed at folks that are too lazy to go to 12/12 on their own and don't wish to learn.
The ruderalis genes were originally a Siberian far north mutation aimed at self preservation in the very short season and oddball light conditions of the far north.
In point of fact you may well wish to start with clones if you have access to them , it might prove less frustrating.
For what it's worth I've been fighting this issue since the heat came on in Las Vegas. My room gets very warm many days over ninety degrees. I had a few clones from a first attempt and in that process the mold started. I have a few plants that have been able to overcome it and are beginning to thrive but they have struggled and growth has been stunted. Along with this I've been battling fungus gnats too. From reading about this issue across a couple forums I think the biggest factor (probably not an earth-shaking conclusion, I know) is temperature. I too am looking to switch to an aeroponic system from soil and temperature control is my biggest worry right now. I'm waiting for my seeds to sprout and mature and not in a hurry to plant them until the weather becomes less brutal.