I' m wondering how plants get rid there extra sugar?
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I' m wondering how plants get rid there extra sugar?
extra sugar? are you using a formula to boost resin production?
Yes. Bud candy. But I have a tiny red hard substance coming from thee underside of my stems... is that extra sugar?
Post a pic if you can. I have no clue. Did not see that one coming and have never heard of this before interesting!
and how many weeks into flowering are you? what strain? do you use enzymes and beneficial bacteria?
Yes this is interesting, can you do a troubleshooting form too so we can see all the parameters involved. Will look forward to the picture being posted, but you won't be able to post it here until you get enough posts. So it will have to be a link to the picture.
Hey Rusty, this looks refreshingly different!!
First week of bud. Only use advanced jungle juice and now bud candy.
Buy some sensizym it will help get rid of the excess sugar in the soil .Since you are in flowering you can start using it right away. Dont use municipal water it kills the enzymes( because of chlorine) and if you have well water (hard water) it's full of contaminants mostly limescale........!So it's not good for the plant. People who use that kind of water tend to get brown leaves ,ph issues and diseases ..........
Forgot to tell you Ro water or distilled water is the water you want to use .Most people use Ro (reverse osmosis):thumbsup:
Its not in the soil its a small red hard substance on the underside of thr middle of my stems. It is coming from my plant. I use ro.
I know but your problems comes from excess nutrients in the soils. And just watering it with water may help, but adding enzymes will help transforme the "sugar" in the soil so the plant can absorbe it correctly. Enzymes transforme organic matter into food for the plant, to make it simple. Less work for the plant. If this does not solve your problem, then it's a bacteria or disease or something else and your problem is out of my league.:cool:
Wooo dont check the spelling in the first phrase it's horrible full of sssss, and tell us more info on the grow, what kind of light are you using,ph level stuff like that.
1000 watt hps. Ph is 6.5 everythings good on the plant there no way there's too many nutrition in the soil. There's no chemical burn anywhere. Just those tiny sacks under a few stems. There about 2 feet tall. And way wider then my arm spand in a circle. Lights 18'' away from the canopy level. Stays 76 to 78 degrees. With fan 24/7. I don't think its a oroblem with the plant. Necaude when you remove it a clear liquid slowly comes out.
Hmmm, I wonder if you have bugs? Spider mites? Do your leaves have little whitish spots on them?Quote:
I don't think its a oroblem with the plant. Necaude when you remove it a clear liquid slowly comes out.
Can you point me to any documentation that provided that information?Quote:
I know but your problems comes from excess nutrients in the soils. And just watering it with water may help, but adding enzymes will help transforme the "sugar" in the soil so the plant can absorbe it correctly. Enzymes transforme organic matter into food for the plant, to make it simple. Less work for the plant
You need to prove it, as I have stated many times that RO is bad water to use and tap water provides the best source of water and micronutrients. Sure some muni's have bad water...they have to make the water quality reports avail to public, so find out. RO/distilled has nothing but water and no micronutrients, and will cause yellowing, browning, scrawny growth. You have scientific proof to prove me wrong please post it, but many others have now tried getting off the RO and onto tap water and find they are doing much better.Quote:
Forgot to tell you Ro water or distilled water is the water you want to use .Most people use Ro .... Dont use municipal water it kills the enzymes( because of chlorine) and if you have well water (hard water) it's full of contaminants mostly limescale........!So it's not good for the plant. People who use that kind of water tend to get brown leaves ,ph issues and diseases ..........
That being said, I don't know the product you speak of, but my tops are as big around as my wrist on a 2 foot plant, what are yours like on a 2 footer?
Wash, nice to see you found my GRUMPY pills, lol. Is that PokerFace...?
Where do you get that info? I just read their product description, and it mentions nothing of the sort...Quote:
Originally Posted by canadianhemperor
Gee. Bummer. I've been on wellwater (calcium/magnesium substrate) for about 7 years now. I don't, repeat DON'T R/O or otherwise filter the water, but I do have to adjust the 7.9 ph. I know you're trying to help, but there's a few of here that believe you don't need all that grow-crap some of these companies want to sell you. What they fail to tell you, is that there are enough beneficials in fresh potting soil to take you from start to finish, if you water and feed properly. Growing hydro is a different story...Quote:
Originally Posted by canadianhemperor
A better idea would be to figure-out what the fuck is going on, and make the PROPER adjustments. We flush excess salts, not sugars. The sugars are like growth candy for the beneficial bacteria in the soil, and the sugar dissipates fairly quickly. I doubt you have a sugar build-up unless you're overusing the Bud Candy. Speaking of Bud Candy, unsulfered molasses is, in my book, a better choice. (A replacement for carbo-load products and CalMag Plus) As far as I'm concerned, the CalMag is nothing more than man-made molasses that's diluted and sold as a high-end product. Molasses (1 teaspoon per gallon per week in flower) has all the calcium, magnesium, carbs and iron they'll need. Are you spraying the Bud Candy on the plants?
Is the problen IN the leaves, or ON the leaves? (is the issue going in, or coming out, lol)
What's your lowest night time temps?
If you go around to a few posts, and post stuff like "Cool garden" or "Nice job"...you can run your post count up a bit quicker, and you'll be able to post pix.
Fix your post count, copy-n-paste the troubleshooting form here, then fill it out and post pix, all asap. You've got 5 minutes.....GO. <kidding> The sooner you do these 4 things, the sooner we can try to diagnose what's up.
Hi Rusty Trichome,Well water quality can vary from one well to the other. You are one of the lucky ones with a good well, with good water. How many ppm,s in your wellwater? Some have over 700ppm+ and that's a plant killer. Enzymes brake down organic matter so it's easier for the plant to absorb nutrients in the soil, "sugar" is organic so enzyme eat it up like other organic matter. here is part of sensizym info:
"You see, if you were growing outdoors in the healthiest, most fertile soil, your plants' roots would be surrounded by billions of beneficial microbes that manufacture enzymes.
These enzymes are constantly breaking down dead roots, other organic matter, and unused nutrients. They transform them into materials that your plants use for fuel to make more vigorous growth and maximize yields. Rich enzymes in the root zone are one main reason outdoor plants get so huge and productive."
This is an example of what can be found in well water: There are a number of naturally-occurring contaminants in Wisconsin groundwater. The more common ones are: arsenic, radon, bacteria, parasites, viruses, iron, manganese, hydrogen sulfide, sulfate, chloride, barium, lead, zinc, copper, radium, uranium, and fluoride.
Some of these (radium, radon, bacteria, parasites, viruses, arsenic, uranium, and lead) pose a health risk if present a high levels. This list is not an all inclusive listing of possible contaminants.
State health officials have also identified a number of human-made contaminants that are showing up in the groundwater supplies. They are: nitrate nitrogen, atrazine, arsenic, benzene, toluene, alachlor, Trichloroethylene (TCE), bacteria, parasites and viruses, and chloroform All of these compounds are a health concern when present in concentrations above established health advisory levels
My wellwater comes out-of-the-ground at about 750 ppm's. No issues for the past 7 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by canadianhemperor
Lol...I was hoping someone would bring that up. I read the sensyzym label earlier this morning. Nothing but marketing hype and quazi-bullshit. Most peat-based potting soils (unless sterilized) have all the beneficials already. Proper watering and regular feedings keep them happy, healthy and horny. (they reproduce on their own, and do all those things Sensyzym claims to do) I love the claim of "Save money on root zone materials..." I already do...I don't buy the unnecessary crap like Sensyzym...Molasses is a great product that'll do just as much for ya, and without the marketing hype, the marketing costs, and the shipping.Quote:
Originally Posted by canadianhemperor
Right there on the product description it says the "Scientists in these labs grow huge amounts of beneficial soil microbes (the kind that manufacture the enzymes your plants need), and then they ferment those microbes to get concentrated doses of enzymes." So they take the beneficials found in most soils, harvest and concentrate it, then sell it to you as a Miracle Product. The optimal quantity of microbes in your soil depends a lot on YOUR care and feeding of the plant. And if you are in need of replenishing the microbe population, perhaps you should look into your gardening techniques, or the other products you're using...because the product is most-often unnecessary.
Enzymes:
[align=left]Because enzymes are not consumed, only tiny amounts of them are needed. Enzymes catalyze all aspects of cell metabolism, including the digestion of food, in which large nutrient molecules (including proteins, carbohydrates, and fats) are broken down into smaller molecules; the conservation and transformation of chemical energy;
Read more: enzyme: Definition from Answers.com[/align]
They are playing on your fears of it being an extremely important product. Which it is not. "Pre-digesting" organic material so the beneficials have an easier time of it. Seriously...? Were they not misleading their customers, I think it would be rather funny.
NOBODY has pure water, and plants don't do well in pure water anyway. You WILL have to replace what filtering takes out. If you want to get hyper-anal about water quality, that's ok, lol. But in most cases it's unnecessary. My wellwater (calcium/magnesium substrate...and old sea bed) comes out of the tap at 750 ppm's. Also, our aquafir runs right past the Mercury Test Site, (underground nuclear testing) but other than my fingernails glowing in the dark, no issues.
If you are ok with drinking your water, the plants should be fine as well. There is absolutely NO reason to over-complicate your life with unnecessary bullshit. If you need to filter it, you need to filter it. But if you find out you don't need the added hastle and expense of filtering or buying your water, why continue with it? Would pay you dividends were you to do a side-by-side of high-dollar water vs tapwater. See if you can spot the difference.
If you question the quality of your groundwater, check online for your local municipality's annual water quality report. It'll tell you more than you ever wanted to know about your groundwater.
I respect your opinion, but i have seen to much commercial growers block the stems of plants and experience plant wilth, with to much nutrients and bad water.Like I said it depends on what are the contaminants in the water. And I replace what filtering takes out with a well balanced feeding program. And yeah sometimes products can be very expensive for what they really are.I totaly agree with you on this one.
Wilt? Wilt can be caused by a number of things from drout conditions, cold temps and stagnant water, to saturated soil, consistent high humidity and salinity issues.
Back in the old days it was widely parroted that water had to be filtered or purchased to get a quality result. But they also touted collected rain as better than tap. This sounds nice in concept, but rain is generally acidic with many, many industrial contaminates it absorbs traveling through the atmosphere. I'd rather use my wellwater.
If you don't mind purchasing an R/O and the future filters it'll take, or if you don't mind going to the store to heft cases of bottled water at $5.00 a pop, or if you don't mind spending extra dollars replacing the crap filtering takes out...then I wouldn't really bother checking if your water works just as well.
It can take an experienced eye, but watch for marketing hype and bullshit. It can lead you astray for years, and the costs build-up over time. Junk science is a great marketing tool though. Half-truths and misdirection. Nothing overtly damaging, but definately profit-driven. And if it screw's-up your plants, that's ok...they have an ammendment to fix what the first product caused... :wtf:
What works for you, may not work for me. Still you have made a couple good points in your post. Wilt can be caused by multiple factors. But still sediments in water leave deposits in soil and can be bad for the plant. Did you know that water carries pathogens and it's how people get meningitis. And it's 3.00$ a pop not 5$.
And I hope they dont srart exploiting shale gas next to your home. because you are not gona like your wellwater anymore. Flamable water is not the best kind to use:cool:
Hey guys, about the RO water. Me nd this chick live about
A block away from each other and we have some of the worst water in the county. It comes out the tap with a ppm of around eight or nine hundred. Isn't that unsafe for the plants? Can't the roots lock up if there's too many minerals in the water? Jw. And if you are like me using dirt with No kind of nutes in it, I want to have the most raw form of water I can get because I manually feed. Like I don't want there to be stuff in my water that's gonna affect my strict feeding style. I'm kinda fussy about my water and nutes. But if the dirt is stripped, don't you want the water to be stripped too. That way the only nutes the plants r getting r the ones u want it to get. That way if something visa wrong u know.its .of some mysterious water problem, that way you have less variables.?? I was just wondering cuz i spent three hundred bucks on my ro filter.
I totally approve what you said prettygirlsmokes420 water should always be pure and clean. Water from city municipal water system should be somewhere around 150ppm and most of the contaminant that make that 150 ppm is chlorine,limescale,chemical sediments,pathogens ,rust and green slime from water system. at 900 ppm your better of using bottled water(nestle,naya) it as 400-500ppm and it's boiled so there is no bacteria. And the ppm's in bottled water dont contain rust and chlorine like tap water does.
You can over-complicate your grow's and your grow techniques till the cow's come home, but that doesn't mean that everybody needs to be as "strict" to achieve the same results. Quite the opposite. Cannabis CAN be quite easy to grow, with beautiful results, without a super-anal regimin. It's only as hard as YOU make it.
If you are searching for a miracle product, a super-dooper tonic, or any other short-cut...it doesn't exist at any price. Knowledge is the miracle cure for your garden. Time in the growth cycle, time in the flower cycle, provide appropriate nutrients if it's not in the soil and start with a decent soil. And yes, if you fear drinking it, you should filter it. I never said otherwise. But I'm not going to constrain myself and do shit I don't need to do nor buy shit I don't need to buy because hydro guys fear...whatever the heck it is they fear. Ever wonder what kind of water they water the compost piles with when assembling your soils? Betcha it's not distilled or otherwise treated...which means you likely have the crap from their water swimming in your soil. :eek:
I've recently switched to FFOF, and am very pleased. Well, actually I'm kinda bummed. About 4 or 5 months ago I had just purchased a new Fox Farms trio when my local soil company changed formula's. Twas a nice rich (It was actually called Filthy Rich by Dr. Q) soil but they took the goodness and buffers out. Cheaper, but now garbage. Anyway, since I switched to the FFOF, I'm still finishing-up my opened bottles (as now I use MUCH less, it's lasting waaaay longer than before) and the unopened trio sit's in the closet getting old. The only additive I use is molasses once a week, and I do have to adjust my 7.9 ph water, which I do with PO4. (phosphoric acid - phDown)
If you have chlorine in your tapwater, let it outgas for a day. Chloramine is a different story though, as it won't outgas. And you folks seem to think you are the only ones in here reading this. I'm speaking to those folks that mistakenly THINK they need to filter or purchase their water. And I'm speaking to those that THINK they need an overly-complicated nutrient collection and every additive under the sun. Because that's just not true.
If it makes you feel good, disregard my insights. I'm definately ok with THAT, lol.
You can also over-complicate your post. Promix as no compost in it, it's dry. And watering with ro washes the soil anyway. And if you want to wait for chlorine to evaporate that's up to you. But it wont make the water less contaminated by the chemical sediments. and water with a ph of 7.9 and 750ppm and bacteria, sure hope you like being sick and good luck fighting cancers and diseases in your future.Drinking limescale can cause arthritis .Joint pain mans best friend!
Been doing this for the past ten years or so. No ill effects to my plants, myself, nor my wife who'se been going through chemo every two weeks for the past NINE years. Nice try though.
Like I said it gives you cancer!drinking some each day , sure wont help to get rid of it!
bad water is killing the world and affects every life form on this planet. more and more people get sick because of pollution in the air and water every year look it up....it's true.And well documented.
No offense, but like I said that may work for your area. For this area Things are.different. fox farms line burnt my last crop. I usedfox farm soil and nutes. And I wasn't using RO water. My roots had white build up around the holes in their containers and my leaves all got burned, dispite my many flushings and cut backs on nutes. So maybe you can be simple with your plants, but circumstances and location require more actions on my part. Plus simple technique can result in simple bud in my opinion. Id like mine to be special. But everyone's got an opinion. I'm just stating observations from my last few gos at it... But i think it also depends on personal preferance, how much time do you really wanna spend taking care of your plants. And back to the subject at hand... The bubbles on the plant...? Pics gurl! We need ta see what the bbls look like. Lol
It's probably the plant trying to sweat out excess nutrients or something. And you are using budcandy so it might explain why it's like red sugar when it's mixted with the plants resin. Dont see anybody having that problem ,so it's probably not common bacteria or pest......
It is NOT a bug! and you guys are way off subject here. can anyone answer my actual question??? PLEASE!!!!
Thank you canadianhemperor. you are the only one to give me a straight answer on this... see thats kinda what i was thinking it was. but i wasent sure. i just know that its not a bug, and its not hurting my plant any at all.
Like I said add sensizym to your feeding program and dont use tap water when using enzymes . The chlorine kills the enzymes and you dont want that. This will help take care of the problem. And if you still have problems with budcandy switch to carboload it's almost the same thing.
And as you can see plants dont get rid of there extra sugar.
if you decide to add it to feeding schedule during the first 6 weeks of flowering. Use it like this : feed,water,water+sensizym,feed,water,water+sensizy m........
No chance for a pic, Audi? Sure would simplify things... :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Audi331
Later today I'll see if I can get some pics from my buddy for you to look at. He's got a strain that's been oozing SWEET goodness from the buds. But, it doesn't get hard or turn red. (well, maybe kinda reddish) ;)
Curious what strain you're growing.
It almost sounds like it's just the plants fluids, oozing a bit. The fact that it dries up HARD seems to indicate that it is primarily water, which is leaving the red substance as it evaporates. Just a guess.
It's too early for any resins to have formed and degraded to a dark color, and that doesn't get real hard, anyway.
Is the substance tacky at all, or rock hard?
Have you tasted it? <--- Yes, I'm serious. :D
I so agree with every word of this folks, I think it is worth reading again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
To the original poster, I am sorry we are ruining your thread, this is very important though.
To all, sorry I took a grump pill, I had a partial finger amputation 12 hours before that post, not an excuse, but an explanation for my poor attitude.
Now, none of this applys to hydro grows in my book. I NEVER address hydro grows. My head does not do numbers well....nuff said.
That picture up there is of Nebula, grown in FFOF, the ONLY nute it got was 1 ml of BloomBastic(BB). No molasses, sugars, nothing but FFOF, with gradual repottings about every 4-6 weeks....that is the fertilizer. The BB bulks up the plants. You need to time the BB and give at the right times and each species tolerates it differently.
If you take the time to read the back of a bag of FFOF, it plainly states ON THE BAG that no other feeding is necessary for 4 weeks. This is all composted, sterile. Nothing lives in it BECAUSE it was composted which sterilized it. Looking at the content, it appears to be a cellulotic type material like ground up hay with some tiny sticks. A fair amount of vermiculite. What you cannot see is the worm castings or bird and bat guano, the latter two are very, very hot fertilizers. (Know anyone with a chicken coop?) They also buffer the product, not sure with what. SO FAR the mix has always been consistent.
Before I moved to the FFOF, I did have many problems, seemed like I was always chasing something. This stuff has made my life easier, my grows better at less cost, though I have upped the lumens in flower just recently, because I can and no other reason. Rusty still uses nutes in the FFOF, I am experimenting, but more in heavy dosing trying to stress a plant to make nanners.....always happened before when I gave too much.
Make it easy, make it hard, I don't care, I still would like to help the original poster.....again, any bugs how do the leaves look?
Ro water is water at it's purest form. And it's pretty much ph perfect. the 1 to 10 ppm's in it is mineral salts. that amount is sufficient. Look at any bottle of aquafina ro water read the label. You will see I'm only trying to help you and your wife. Chemo for 9 years that's just not right, I cant even imagine all the suffering your wife and you have gone through. Your wife should really try to calm down and should not get upset because of any post. Some dr say that stress,can cause cancer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DogtowN
Its blueberry and I have tasted it its super dry tasting very bland, not sweet at all. It is also very hard.