Who can help diagnose my issue?

Situation basics:

Plants are 3.5 weeks old (in veg), bubble gum strain.

The room tends to stay in the low 80s and into the high 70s at night. Humidity is typically around 50%

Under a 400W MH 24/0 in soil which is local hydro shops "pro mix" plus about 33% (by volume) perlite.

Plants are given a half gallon of water twice a week. 1 time is the botanicare directions found here -> with ph'd and the other is ph'd water with 10ml cal-mag per gallon.

According to the soil PH meter (the 2 probe basic one) my PH is in the mid 6's for the soil.

Im thinking nute deficency, but I am having issues finding a pic that matches (i am very poor at diagnosing nute deficiencies)

There are pictures of 2 plants attached.

Thank you in advance for any sugestions/help

More picsAttachment 277242Attachment 277243Attachment 277244Attachment 277245

I think you fried them, 3.5 weeks old probably only need small amounts of fertilizer. Too much pearlite will cause your soil to not retain as much water either.

I'd flush them very well that stick to just water. With that much pearlite you may need to water a little more often.

Thanks. Here is the link for the nute schedule I follow. (sorry it didnt post)

Does this seam reasonable?

Can you also better define the term "fried" please?

Thank you.

botanicare/dutch master/fox farm. how to use em

You shouldn't be giving them any nutrients the first few weeks so I believe that to be your problem. Give them just water until they start to recover.

Dude, to hell with all that jarrgon just try to keep it simple. You'll spend more on two bottles of that crap then I'll spend on all nutrients for 18 plants for a full grow.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ddxsinxcosxdx

Thanks. Here is the link for the nute schedule I follow. (sorry it didnt post)

Does this seam reasonable?

Can you also better define the term "fried" please?

Thank you.

botanicare/dutch master/fox farm. how to use em

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Exactly which botanicare nutes do you have??? I can help you with a feeding recipe to make sure your macro and micro nutes are covered and available, at the right amounts, per period of growth....

Like mentioned before, flush really good.... Once the plants look healthy again, you can resume nutes at a low strength.... After flushing, don't water again until at least 75% of the moisture has transpired....

Don't let nute mix recipes confuse you, once you know how and what effects when, your plants will thank you.... And anything more than 5ml per gallon of cal-mag is too much....

CGI::::::

I use:

PBPG
PBPB (Soil)
Liquid Karma
and cal-mag

Nutrition and diagnosis really is a week point for me, and I welcome all advise on how to get better. I have Ed Rosenthals book, which I read and use for reference, but I cant seem to get to the point I understand plant nutrition well enough to avoid using someone elses set pattern.

Plants are due to be watered tomorrow. I will flush them and report back on how theyre doing in a few days.

I've read Ed's book a dozen times or so and it's great reference material.

When plants are smaller they can't take an OD of nutrients like older and more mature plants. Although I start with just MG I go on the very conservitive side until they are a few feet tall then I go full strength. Superthrive is supposed to be beneficial to new plants I'd suggest you use some on your next watering as it tends to help plants recover from shock.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ddxsinxcosxdx

I use:

PBPG
PBPB (Soil)
Liquid Karma
and cal-mag

---

On the back of the PBPG bottle is a feeding chart.... Have you tried using the recommended dosages or just been going off the chart on the link you provided???

The chart on the back of the bottle is just a user guide to give you an idea of how you should feed, light when young and heavier dosages as they grow....

Macro Nutes - These are your N-P-K's.... Your PBPG has an N-P-K ratio of 3-2-4 and PBPB (soil formula) has an N-P-K ratio of 1.5-4-5.... These are great for beginners because they can be used as stand alone ferts for veg and bloom....

Micro Nutes - These are Calcium, Magnesium, Iron, Zinc, Manganese etc.... These element are necessary for plant growth but only in trace amounts.... These are also found in your cal-mag and liquid karma.... Over feeding trace elements will have negative affects on your plants....just like when over feeding Macro Nutes....

The trick is to build up their nute tolerance.... And the best way to learn is with a ppm meter.... With a ppm meter and RO or distilled water, you can easily find out how much of a dosage, in ppm, each macro/micro nute formula has....then do the math to figure out how much of what can be given to end at the desired ppm for each particular stage of growth....

This is how you build nute tolerance with ppm's....
Veg ----------
Week 1 - No Nutes, only plain RO or Distilled water....soil should have enough Nutes to get it going before you start supplementing....
Week 2 - 3-400ppm's
Week 3 - 4-500ppm's
Week 4 - 5-600ppm's
Bloom -----------
Week 5 - 6-700ppm's
Week 6 - 7-800ppm's
Week 7 - 8-900ppm's
Week 8 - 9-1000ppm's
Week 9 - 10-1100ppm's
Week 10 - 11-1200ppm's
Week 11 - 12-1300ppm's
Week 12 - 13-1400ppm's or flush this week, depending on strain, trichs and when you feel like harvesting....

Start with once a week feeds.... Once you feel confident, and you plants are large enough, you can try twice a week but make sure to give plain water between feedings....

But you get the picture of what I mean by how to build nute tolerance, right??? You always want to start off light and end strong.... The ppm's would be a mix of your macro and micro nutes.... And vitamins if you decide you want to throw some of those in too.... I would strongly recommend vitamin B-1, Thiamine Mononitrate.... The Thiamine promotes systemic active resistance within the plant which in turn gives you healthy happy plants that are less susceptible to infections or disease....

I'll be glad to walk you through the process of figuring out ppm levels for each of your products and how to combine them if you need assistance in doing so....

Oh and one last thing, I've been using CM and LK for years now and let me tell you that I have not notices a difference in growth between the LK recommended amounts and using less amounts of it but I have noticed reduced growth without it as well.... So what I'm trying to get at is you shouldn't use more than 5ml per gallon of each CM and LK....anymore is just a waste....


Hope this helps....

CGI::::::

CGI: It does help. I have been blindly following that chart, calling week 1 the first week that my cuttings are rooted and then placed in dirt.

Ya know, this is a hard art (and this is coming from someone with BAs in Math and Econ) to learn. I can get a crop to harvest, and it smokes and people like it, but I want to get better. I know I can get better quality medication from these plants.

I'm currently on tap water, and am just waiting to see a little money (hopefully in the next month or so) so I can finish installing my RO setup. I am hoping that once I get that done, I start to see happier plants.

I've been using liquid measurements (ml), so I will look up more information about how to convert to PPM and start to use that as a measurement of fertilizer input.

When you say x-y00 ppm does that mean total for all additives or total? (additives plus what is in my High quality (read: crap) tap water?))

Also, do you define week 1 to be the first week they are rooted or the week they are cut?

Thank you again for your help.

I've re-read your post a few times (theres a lot of good info there, thanks again) I just want to make sure I have a few more things right:

I currently use gallons of water for watering. On a plant that is midway through its flower cycle I give 30ml of bloom-soil 7ml cal-mag and 10ml of lk... by my math that is 12433 ppm (1 gallon ~= 3780 ml, I use 47 ml of total nutes => 47000/3.78 = 12433) (also, 1ml in 1 gallon of water = 264ppm)

So, I've been using 12-14 times the amount of nutrients I should have been? (Yes, I realize you said that I'm over fertilizing.... but damn that's WAY over kill)

For the specific plants above the math works out as 11111 ppm. 22-28 times what you recommend.

My other question is how do you choose how much of each fertilizer?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ddxsinxcosxdx

My other question is how do you choose how much of each fertilizer?

---

Alright, ready??? What we do first is get some RO or Distilled water and a ppm meter.... Once you have these we can then look at the recommended strengths and do a ppm measurement test to find out how many ppms are at those rates....

Example: Cal-Mag recommends a dosage of 5ml per gallon.... So what we do is divide that gallon into liters, 4, and divide the recommended 5ml by 4 and put together....divide by 4 because we are only going to use 1liter of RO water and 1.25ml of cal mag to figure out the recommended ppm dosage....

Step 1 - measure ppm's in plain RO water. (We'll use 40ppm for this example)....
Step 2 - drop 1.25ml of cal mag into the RO water, mix....
Step 3 - dip ppm meter into water (Total ppm is 265, cal mag and RO)
Step 4 - subtract the total by the number previous to the addition of nute....

225ppms is the number of ppms cal mag contributes per gallon.... So knowing this and wanting to be at 300ppms on week 2 of veg, we can already see that we cannot give the recommended dose of 5ml per gallon at that stage....

So you repeat the ppm measurement test with the rest of your bottles an figure out how many ppms are available at the recommended doses, then divide them up to make your nute recipe add up to the desired ppm levels for the proper period of growth....have I lost you yet??? Also, your nute recipe should not exceed 5ml of cal-mag and liquid karma....

When I say week one, I mean a clone rooting into the soil/pot it is going to veg in.... Get RO as soon as possible....tap water is giving you an extra 250-350 ppms, depending on your area, of unknown and uncontrolled minerals and additives....unwanted ones IMO....

Glad I can help....

So you've flushed them by now, right???


CGI::::::

Yup, just flushed them. I have the lights coming on kinda late right now so that I can try and get a few degrees cooler in there.

I'm gonna see what I can do to get the last bit of stuff I need for the RO setup, mainly I just need a water supply line, a 55 gallon barrel, an air stone, a float valve and to put it all together.


By root computation, I came up with 1ml = 264 ppm. Does this seem reasonable to you?

The thought of getting an identical amount of any liquid poured every time just doesn't happen. I have no problem getting a meter and testing, but to use it as a guideline, I would rather go with computation.... maybe im just crazy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ddxsinxcosxdx

By root computation, I came up with 1ml = 264 ppm. Does this seem reasonable to you?

The thought of getting an identical amount of any liquid poured every time just doesn't happen. I have no problem getting a meter and testing, but to use it as a guideline, I would rather go with computation.... maybe im just crazy.

---

If you use your computation, you will be wrong every time....why??? Because not all formulas are created equal....and not all formulas are given in equal portions, only the micro and trace....N-P-K's will exceed the dosages before and after your cal mag and liquid k cap at 5ml per gallon....

The example I gave earlier was a real measurement example, not just made up numbers.... I literally did the steps while writing the post and those were the numbers I came up with.... Now after reading that you want to use your computation, I decided to measure the liquid k at 1.25ml per liter.... The result was a ppm of 70.... So you see why I recommend a ppm meter.... Don't let $20 stand in the way of you knowing what your ppms are.... If I had your exact nutes, I'd tell you what the PBPG and PBPB are too.... So for now, know that the LK and CM give you 70ppm for LK @ 1.25ml per liter and 225ppms of CM @ 1.25ml per liter....

Here's an example of what your nute recipe should look like....

Week 3 veg 4-500ppms per gallon
PBPG - 5ml
CalMag - 2.5ml
Liquid K - 2.5ml

At 1/2 strength of cal mags recommended strength and at 2.5ml per gal of Liquid K, you're at 182ppms or so....depending on the ppm strength of the PBPG, you should add accordingly to reach the 4-500ppms for that week.... Your N-P-K should always be more than your micros....

CGI::::::

Thanks again,

I was able to free up a little cash tonight, so, Ill get my RO machine and PPM meter tomorrow. I looked at one before and the store had 2 models, one that the guy said had to be caliabrated every time I use it, every test... ($40) and another that was suppose to be calibrated about once a month ($215)

Any ideas on these?

This is the $ 40 one HTG Supply - Primo TDS Tester

This is the $215 one HTG Supply - Trimeter by Nutradip

I cant get the expensive one right away, but at the same time, I never like to buy a crappy tool (Like anything from harbor freight)

I use a Primo myself.... I calibrate it every 2 or 3 months or so.... I have my recipe down to a point where I know where my ppms are before I measure with the meter.... I use the meter just for shits and giggles at this point....same with my pH meter.... Once you get a hang of things, it all comes natural....well it did/does for me anyway....

CGI::::::

So, week in update:

Affected plants look like they lost a few of the leaves that were showing burn, some were saved and most remained unaffected.

Im about to go give a watering (just water) and am still working on my RO machine. (its in, but it leaks too much to leave it on long enough to get my 55 gallon drum full)

PPM of my water as it sits right now is 120-125, what I have gotten out of the RO machine is floating between 1 and 2... much better.

I still dont think I have an understanding of how to use the PPMs that are available to me for each feeding. (What ratio of each nute should I use to make the feeding best for the plant?)

Anyone know anywhere good that I can learn more about the topic?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CanGroIt

Here's an example of what your nute recipe should look like....

Week 3 veg 4-500ppms per gallon
PBPG - 5ml
CalMag - 2.5ml
Liquid K - 2.5ml

---

Have you tried this example yet to see what the ppms come out to???

Have you tried the ?ml per liter of your PBPG and PBPB to find your ppms on those??? Would really help you if you knew....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ddxsinxcosxdx

I still dont think I have an understanding of how to use the PPMs that are available to me for each feeding. (What ratio of each nute should I use to make the feeding best for the plant?)

Anyone know anywhere good that I can learn more about the topic?

---

I'm trying to help you understand this but you have got to do the recommended ppm test for your PBPG and PBPB bottles in order to know how to mix them with your cal-mag and liquid k....

Your PBPG and PBPB will always be given at higher doses than your cal-mag and liquid k.... You don't have to give the same amount if LK as you do of CM, that's just something that I do and recommend....but knowing the ppm of it can certainly help you adjust your nute mix each grow so as to tweak your recipe to find what works best with the strain you are currently growing....

Do the rec ppm test and I can help you with the mixin of your nutes....

CGI::::::

Oh and re-read what I posted before, their is some good info there....:jointsmile:

Initial water - 2-5 ppm (Got my RO machine in right finally :) )

PBPG - 590-600 ppm
PBPB - 750-760 ppm

Directions followed as described by CGI

Now with this info, you can now divide/multiply your ml per gallon to build nute tolerance....

So to have a nutrient balanced recipe mix and build nute tolerance, you look at your ppms per gallon and divide/multiply to get your ppms to the desired ppm....

We know that 2.5ml of each CM and LK give us a ppm of 180 or so per gallon.... Now that we know that "X"ml per gallon of PBPG gives us roughly 600ppms, we would have to divide "X" by 4 to get our desired ppm of 3-400 for week 2 of veg....

A nutrient balanced nute recipe will include, macro nutes, N-nitrogen, P-phosphorus, K-potassium and micro nutes which are found in your cal mag and liquid K.... Macro nutes will always be given at higher doses, which is why they are macro....and your micros at smaller doses....

So, for week 2 of veg, your recipe should be 1/4 of "X" and 2.5ml of each CM and LK....with this, your ppms should be between 3-400.... Then add from there each week....

Hope this helps.....

BTW, at what ml's did you use per gal to reach those ppm's??? For the PBPG & PBPB....

55gal drum with RO....lucky....

CGI::::::

In this case X is 5ml per gallon, so that means 1.25 ml. If I remember from earlier correctly, we should be using more PBPG or PBPB than CM or LK... how would you adjust this?

The RO machine wasen't bad, probably $300 total, and that puts the drum next to my work bench thanks to an extra long hose.

Im gonna go give them plain tap water 1 last time before I start feeding them again. Baised on what I understand, I should give fertilizer in water once a week for a week or so before switching to every watering, right?

THanks again

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ddxsinxcosxdx

So, week in update:

Affected plants look like they lost a few of the leaves that were showing burn, some were saved and most remained unaffected.

Im about to go give a watering (just water) and am still working on my RO machine. (its in, but it leaks too much to leave it on long enough to get my 55 gallon drum full)

PPM of my water as it sits right now is 120-125, what I have gotten out of the RO machine is floating between 1 and 2... much better.

I still dont think I have an understanding of how to use the PPMs that are available to me for each feeding. (What ratio of each nute should I use to make the feeding best for the plant?)

Anyone know anywhere good that I can learn more about the topic?

---

Why is your RO system leaking? if it's leaking from the couplings (where the tube meets the holes) then just push the tube in as hard as you can. if it's a canister leaking, then you may want to check if you accidently crossthreaded it when replacing or installing it. you may be able to unscrew it and get it on correctly, but you may have buggered it up so much that it needs to be replaced.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ddxsinxcosxdx

In this case X is 5ml per gallon, so that means 1.25 ml. If I remember from earlier correctly, we should be using more PBPG or PBPB than CM or LK... how would you adjust this?

The RO machine wasen't bad, probably $300 total, and that puts the drum next to my work bench thanks to an extra long hose.

Im gonna go give them plain tap water 1 last time before I start feeding them again. Baised on what I understand, I should give fertilizer in water once a week for a week or so before switching to every watering, right?

THanks again

---

No need to adjust....

(let's stick to per gal for now)
5ml per gallon of PBPG = 590 - 600ppm
5 ml per gallon of CM = 225ppm
5ml per gallon of LK = 70ppm

So after looking at what the ppms are for each different bottle, we can see that even though we are giving the exact same number of milliliters, the ppms differ....so this is why I say that your N-P-K will always be given at higher doses....now ya get it???

Now let's add those numbers to see what we get.... 895ppm is what we would have if we place 5ml of each of those in a gallon of RO water.... But we want to be at 300ppm per gallon on week 2 of veg, so we divide.... Then once into flower you simply replace the PBPG with PBPB.... Just remember not to give more than 5ml per gallon of CM, anytime.... It's up to you if you want to give more than 5ml per gal of LK at any given time....the recommendations say to do so, so that one is up to you....

You don't want to give ferts with every watering....give plain RO water between feedings....

pH is pretty important too....you got that covered???

CGI::::::

So, at the end of flowering, when the ppm ranges increase, I just add the appropriate amount of PBPB?

PH I check every week or so, water comes in about 7-7.2 and run off is 6.4-6.6. I just use dipsticks which I hate, I need to get a PH meter that has a digital read out, I always worry that I'm not reading the test strips right.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ddxsinxcosxdx

So, at the end of flowering, when the ppm ranges increase, I just add the appropriate amount of PBPB?

PH I check every week or so, water comes in about 7-7.2 and run off is 6.4-6.6. I just use dipsticks which I hate, I need to get a PH meter that has a digital read out, I always worry that I'm not reading the test strips right.

---

Not sure if I understand your question completely.... But the time that you want to switch from PBPG to the PBPB is within the first two weeks of flower.... So if you were using 5ml of PBPG on the last week of veg, give them 5ml of PBPB when switching over, after a ppm reading adjust to suit.... Then raise from there to get the desired ppm....

Well at least you have some way of checking pH....cool....

CGI::::::

I think that was the answer to my question, but I am going to re-ask in a different way, just to make sure:

In week 10 the given nute schedule states 1100-1200ppm
In week 11 the given nute schedule states 1200-1300ppm

For this scenario I will assume that LK will be held constant at 5ml, and as we discussed, CM will max out at 5ml, thus will also be constant at 5ml per gallon.

To adjust the ppm upwards of roughly 100 ppm, I would simply add 100 ppm of PBPB, right?

I think I am going to break down and get a digital readout meter, at this point I've invested enough that it would be stupid for me not to have one, just incase I really do suck at reading the color charts.

Is the simple tester here HTG Supply - Checker pH Tester just as worth getting as the basic ppm meter was?

if not, any advise on a brand or type to get?


I really do appreciate all your help. I'm sure that as long as I can follow your advise I will get much better. I just wish summer would end so that heat wasen't such a pain in the ass, lol!

So, if you had to describe what a "routine" (if there is such a thing) watering went like, how would you describe it? If I were watching you do your basic feeding, what would you do step by step?

Also, any thoughts on LED lights? These summer temps are making me think that maybe I should start thinking about upgrading to those by next summer. Sure would help the electricity bills too.

My bad, I completely missed this post until today.... (got a great strain going :jointsmile:)

How they looking??? They should have fully recovered by now....

Yes, you are correct.... If you cap the LK and CM at 5ml per gal each, you would add another 100ppm of PBPB so as to increase the nutrient level to the wanted ppm for that given week:thumbsup:....

Color charts are not very effective methods when attempting to measure anything, IMO.... Digital meters are very good investments that last if properly taken care of.... The HTG checker you linked is a basic pH meter that works, I have one....

I don't mind helping you understand this.... Right now you are using 3 bottles.... Once you learn more, you will probably get more.... For now, learn how different levels of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium effect plant growth at different stages.... That way you can tweak your recipe later....

Trust me, I know what you mean about summer temps kickin ass.... I'm just fortunate to not have to worry about that anymore.... IMO, a portable A/C would be a better investment over LED's....but that is just my opinion....and I base this off of being able to be reimbursed for growing costs....

My routine is one that I DO NOT recommend anyone try until they are ready to suffer the consequences of over ferting from not doing it properly....and because my routine is specific to the nutrients/boosters/vitamins that I use.... Personally, I feed feed water.... When I feel like I'm pushing them too far I will feed water water for a week, then resume the feed feed water.... I use 2.5l containers for flower and only give them 4oz of feed/water every 24hr period.... One thing I make sure to do is flush right before transplanting into flower and flush again on day 28 of flower, and of course the final flush 10 days before harvest.... So for me, I don't just feed once per week....it doesn't matter what week it is, I feed feed water feed feed water feed feed water....this is only during flower though.... While in veg, it's the opposite, I water water feed, on a soil needing moisture basis....not daily like flower.... And typically, I won't start watering everyday in flower until about the third or fourth week....before then, the pots hold moisture for two to three days.... But this is just what I found to work for me....

Glad I can help....

CGI::::::

I got off the forum for myself a bit.

Ive been doing feed water water consistently now. Got a small mite issue that I had to fix,but I think that's done now.

I have a portable unit that I run but my 4x 600w HPS lights seem to be kicking its ass. Now that its getting cooler here, its doing better.

I Think im gonna do air cooled lights come spring (our winters are cold so im gonna take advantage of the heat while I can)

Plants are looking a lot better.

Im finding that the numbers I came up with just doing each nute in water arent scaling up well. Im doing 5ml calmag, 5 ml LK (giving an extra ml every 2 weeks) and then making up the rest with PBPB or PBPG as necessary. What I am finding is that ppm of 5ml of pbpb is not the same as twice the ppm for 10ml of pbpb, any thoughts?

I want to get more accurate with my PH now, except I hate my meter, I seem to have to recalibrate it every time I use it. Any ideas why that would be?

Usually the water I put in is about 7, and coming out its about 6.2-6.3.... so that seems right, but I still dont trust my meter since I have to re-calibrate it every time I use it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ddxsinxcosxdx

Im finding that the numbers I came up with just doing each nute in water arent scaling up well. Im doing 5ml calmag, 5 ml LK (giving an extra ml every 2 weeks) and then making up the rest with PBPB or PBPG as necessary. What I am finding is that ppm of 5ml of pbpb is not the same as twice the ppm for 10ml of pbpb, any thoughts? -Not sure I understand this correctly....5ml of pbpb will not have the same ppm of 10ml of pbpb.... Can you rephrase this question or walk me step by step how you are measuring your ppm levels and then ask your question???

I want to get more accurate with my PH now, except I hate my meter, I seem to have to recalibrate it every time I use it. Any ideas why that would be? -What kind of inconsistancies are you experiencing that you feel the need to recalibrate each use???

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If you walk me through your steps, then ask your question....I'll be able to help understand where it is that you have misunderstanding....

CGI::::::

Doesn't this seem to make things a little more difficult then they really need to be? It's not quite as simple as just adding water and a few tbs. of nutrients but it's not much more difficult either(in regards to feeding). If you want to get the most out of your plants get them some natural sunlight! JMO

@ CGI

In my mind, 10ml of PBPB (just picking one) should have twice the PPM of 5ml of PBPB, roughly.

I am not finding that to be true with my ppm meter at all.

I have been simply doing a base set for now (5ml of CM, 5ml of LK, 5ml of PBPG/PBPB depending on time) reading the PPM with my meter and then adjusting LK and PBPG/PBPB up to make the PPM range that you (CGI) have described.

DO you have Yahoo IM? My sn there is ddxsinxcosxdx, might be a tad easier to do that then here....


@Purple Daddy

I would love to do outside, however Michigan has a locked and secure requirement that makes growing outside illegal under state law. Living in the middle of the city, its not quite easy to do that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ddxsinxcosxdx

@ CGI

In my mind, 10ml of PBPB (just picking one) should have twice the PPM of 5ml of PBPB, roughly.

I am not finding that to be true with my ppm meter at all.


DO you have Yahoo IM?......

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You are right, 10ml of PBPG should be twice that if 5ml of PBPG.... Your meter might be off by 10-20ppms but that is normal.... After all, pouring exactly 5ml and 10ml is pretty hard....so if your ppms are within 15-30ppm of double then I would say you are ok.... I have yet to get an exact reading every single time....but I'm always within 30ppms....

Example: Earlier you stated that 5ml of PBPG = 590-600ppm per gal.... So if your meter reads somewhere between 1170-1230, you are still ok....

In a bit I'll be able to run a ppm test to see how far off my ppms are after checking....

I agree, IM would be faster but more people will benefit from being able to read this here....

@PurpleDaddy - Once you see/know how manipulating the levels of what Macro and Micro nutes does, their is no going back to the water and wait game....at least that is how I feel about it....plus, it takes a lot of discipline to measure out nutes this way day in and day out....

CGI::::::

So I just did a ppm test....

2liters RO water = 30ppm
1ml Bio Bizz Fish Mix = 106ppm
1 more ml Bio Bizz Fish Mix = 251 total ppm

The first ml gave me 106ppms and then I added the second ml which added 115ppm.... I was off by 9ppms on my measurements from one to double....

Just wanted to show an example of how ppms can vary even though we are giving the same amount.....

CGI::::::

Ok, ill re-calibrate PPM meter and try to be a bit more accurate with my dosages.

Ive been thinking about the feed feed water vs water water feed schedule. Have you ever thought about just alternating water feed?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ddxsinxcosxdx

Ive been thinking about the feed feed water vs water water feed schedule. Have you ever thought about just alternating water feed?

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I've too been thinking about alternating feed and water.... I think I'm going to try that for a bit....

CGI::::::

Thought you would like an update.

The original plants are now into their 3rd week of flower. showing lots of small buds and all the leaves are showing no nute issues. Im currently battling with a group of spider mites, but a batch of lady bugs, plus rotating azamax, neem, and water on all my plants that have 4 weeks or more of flower left seems to be working. The ones that are closer to flower I just mist with flower and let the lady bugs do their thing.

Any thoughts on what im doing for the mites?

Glad to hear they are doing better now....

I've noticed that wild lady bugs work 1000 times better than store bought ones....but you have to fortunate enough to be able to go out and find some when needed....

Got any dryer sheets??? You know, the fabric softener sheets you throw in the dryer with you clothes.... Place a couple near your air intake.... Supposedly bugs cannot stand the fragrance of dryer sheets....I have 4 in my veg cab and 8 in my flower cab....and I haven't had 1 bug problem since placing them in.... I see an occasional fly but nothing ever stays to populate which makes me believe that the dryer sheets are the key.... Doesn't hurt to try....

CGI::::::

If you have any plant that mites have taken a particular liking to try moving it if you can. I have fought a monumental battle with mites for over a month and at one point was throwing about everything(except lady bugs) at them only to somewhat control them. They still took a liking to one particular plant and depite heavy soaking with azatrol and the tobacco leaf extract spray, putting in a closet with no pest strips, aerosol sprays etc., that plant remained heavily infested, even spraying with a hose didn't help. When I harvested it yesterday I soaked it in a large tub of water for a while to kill of any mites and hopefully flush out the dead ones.