Im loosing her, please help

Hi everybody thanks for checking in and trying to help with my little problem. I started three little seeds in the ending of october that I got from some friends. Everything was going fine I started off with 4 CFL's @ 27w each I had this set up for one month. I then upgraded to 2 CFL's @68w each and 2 of the 27w and have had this set up from the beginning of December till present. I feand watered regularly and untill recently all was fine. I recently picked up a soil PH tester and have a liquid Ph tester on the way. I tried to raise the acid of the soil from 6.7 to 6.0 because the plant had small yellowing on the lower leaves. I tried to lower it by adding coffee grinds. STUPID after that a day or two later The lower leaves began yellowing, its been a week now and for the past two days has move up the plant and has gotten much worse. I flushed the plant two days ago and tried to get rid of the coffee grinds. The PH eve hasnt changed from 6.7. The containters are kinda tiny so I might have root binding I also airated the soil yesterday after doing some research. Last week I had tied the outside buds away from the stem to allow more light to access the center. Maybe that is my problem.

I have filled out the Troubleshooting form to the best of my knowledge
THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP

What is your experience level? first timer

Your Equipment:
.1) 1st month: 4CFL's @108w, 2nd month and half of 3rd month: 2CFL's @ 136w pluss 2CFL's @54w
.2) Distance from tops: 4"
.3) Reflector type?
Round AC duct cut in half
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? Yes thay are in a living space
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan?
Yes bolth
.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule?
2x 2,700K, 4,200Lu, 68w CFL's PLUSS 2x 5,000K, 27w CFL's



Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil,
Miracle grow potting soil with an inch or two of Fafard organics patting mix to replace after fushing
.8) Size of container.
8' roud X 7" deep
.9) Did you use peat pucks? No

Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water?
Tap let to sit for 2 days, Ph unknown
11) Method of checking water ph. NA
12) Method of adjusting water ph. Na
13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle.
General hydroponics: Flora micro, bloom, and gro.. I used half specified dose per 1 galon water
14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering?2 waterings between @ 16.9Fl oz each
15) Any additives or tea's? No
16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate?Stable
17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph? NA
18) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray?No

Your growroom:
19) Indoors or outdoors?Indoors
20) What size of hut? 25"high x 18"deep x 22"wide
21) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off?
Lights on: lights off:
Soil temp 70-80 : 65-75
Cannopy temp 75-90 : 65-75
Humidity 30-70 : 30-70

22) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom?
Never, No way, No how

Your strain:
23) What strain are you growing? Na
24) From seeds or clones? Seeds
25) Is this an autoflower strain? Na

First picture yesterday, second picture today

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule?
2x 2,700K, 4,200Lu, 68w CFL's PLUSS 2x 5,000K, 27w CFL's

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I am confused here. Are you using more of the 5000k spectrum than the 2700k spectrum??? What week of flowering are you in??? Your PH is fine at 6.7 too:thumbsup: Towards the end of flowering, I find its best to just let the plant do what it does,,,Die!!!! Beside removing the dead yellow leaves which is normal a lot in the end, I leave her be. Proceed the same all the way through until flushing time.:smokin:

agree with jon420 and would like to add that 4" is to far away for CFL's and that ur temps seem high.what is ur ambient room temps?? some leaf yellowing is normal starting in mid flower.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by seventhchild

agree with jon420 and would like to add that 4" is to far away for CFL's and that ur temps seem high.what is ur ambient room temps?? some leaf yellowing is normal starting in mid flower.

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The ambient room temp is crazy. The room has no insulation but when the heat comes on it really comes on. It can get up to 75 and as ow as 80 on a regular basis maybe even lower. I can get the lights closer but they start drying out the leaves which made me move it farther away.

Thanks for the help

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jon420

I am confused here. Are you using more of the 5000k spectrum than the 2700k spectrum??? What week of flowering are you in??? Your PH is fine at 6.7 too Towards the end of flowering, I find its best to just let the plant do what it does,,,Die!!!! Beside removing the dead yellow leaves which is normal a lot in the end, I leave her be. Proceed the same all the way through until flushing time..

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Im using two huge 68w @ 2,700k lamps equivalent to 300w each, so together its 600w @2700k
Also there are 2 little 27w @ 5,000k lamps equivalent to 150w each, so together its 300w @ 5,000k
More 2,700k than 5,000k

Also im in to the third week of flowering.

Thanks for helping

I plan on upgrading the pot size to help out the roots tonight!!

This picture is current and as you can see the yellow is spreading rapidly :(

You're not losing her, its the food in your soil you lost.
You have a very small pots and looks like not enough water and food for the plant. Do leaves move up right after watering and get down again in a short time like a day or half? If so, you need to water and feed more often. You're already using half dosage food and dividing it to three. Give more food, not just water.

Other things looks normal and has nothing to do with this issue such as temps or light distance. Temps on canopy looks high because of direct light. It effects on thermometers. Its like putting a thermometer under direct sun light.



I just read your last post now, and changing pots is a better idea of course. You'll be just fine after that. After repotting keep your feeding schedule for a while (2 weeks at least, depends on soil) then raise it. Don't give gro, give bloom.

how many weeks into flower are you? mabey up the dose of the nutes just a bit to 3/4 looks like its starving for something, however if its close to harvest, thats natural.

but first check PH of runoff and water going in. if its off it will starve the plant from nutrients.

Not sure what the NPK ratio is on your nutes, since its not listed in the troubleshooting form, but I'm wondering about a possible Nitrogen deficiency since its in flower.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tevfik

Do leaves move up right after watering and get down again in a short time like a day or half? If so, you need to water and feed more often.

I just read your last post now, and changing pots is a better idea of course. You'll be just fine after that. After repotting keep your feeding schedule for a while (2 weeks at least, depends on soil) then raise it. Don't give gro, give bloom.

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Yes the leaves move up right after watering like you said. I have to run to home depot to get the pots ill keep you posted on that tomorrow. I was giving it all 3 gro, bloom, and flower. mixed all together. Ill stop the gro though. Thank you

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MadSativa

how many weeks into flower are you? mabey up the dose of the nutes just a bit to 3/4 looks like its starving for something, however if its close to harvest, thats natural.

but first check PH of runoff and water going in. if its off it will starve the plant from nutrients.

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3 weeks in to flowering
Ill check the PH of the runoff whenver the tester comes, thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RAINHAZE

Not sure what the NPK ratio is on your nutes, since its not listed in the troubleshooting form, but I'm wondering about a possible Nitrogen deficiency since its in flower.

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Sorry about that I get the juice from a friend in a milk container, Ill get the label information soon to see where its at. I know that the mix was used in other grows at full straingh that matured normally.
I guess I need to increase my dosage. Thanks

Yes, once you repot you'll be fine. You can go like this but all the leaves will be yellow soon if you stay in that pot.
You don't need to worry about other things what most of the others saying here. There is no nutrient deficiency, there is no PH issue. Your plant is starving. Start feeding her, get new pots asap.
After all you'll be fine.

Try to find out those flower and bloom nutes schedule. Some bloom nutrients only recommended after 5-6 weeks of flowering.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

I tried to raise the acid of the soil from 6.7 to 6.0 because the plant had small yellowing on the lower leaves.

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6.7 is fine in peat-based soils. 6.0 is a bit low. Will cover that later...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

I tried to lower it by adding coffee grinds.

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BAD idea to add anything that hasn't been composted. Organics tend to rot in the pots when not composted.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

STUPID after that a day or two later The lower leaves began yellowing, its been a week now and for the past two days has move up the plant and has gotten much worse. I flushed the plant two days ago and tried to get rid of the coffee grinds. The PH eve hasnt changed from 6.7. The containters are kinda tiny so I might have root binding I also airated the soil yesterday after doing some research. Last week I had tied the outside buds away from the stem to allow more light to access the center. Maybe that is my problem.

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Wow. Mind me asking where you are getting these "helpful" tips?
Aerated the soil...? Normal watering does that every time you water. (draws-down the fresh air via suction)
Here, you say ph is at 6.7, but below you mention N/A for ph. Which is it, and what are you using to get a test result of 6.7?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

.7) Specific brand and type of soil,
Miracle grow potting soil with an inch or two of Fafard organics patting mix to replace after fushing

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Fafards is buffered to between 5.5 and 6.0, per their website. (a tad too low)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

.8) Size of container.
8' roud X 7" deep

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About 2 gallons. A tad small, but should be fine for a CFL grow. Likely more rootbound than is optimal, but not a complete disaster. (yet)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

10) Source of water?
Tap let to sit for 2 days, Ph unknown
11) Method of checking water ph. NA
12) Method of adjusting water ph. Na

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Yes, it does apply, but if you don't know...you'll want to find out. Check online for your local water companies Water Quality Report, which will show average ph and what's in it...then save for a ph pen or at least a freshwater aquarium ph test kit. ($7.00 or so) I've never seen a soil ph probe I didn't throw away. Ingoing water for peat-based mediums should have a ph between 6.3ish and 6.8ish.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle.
General hydroponics: Flora micro, bloom, and gro.. I used half specified dose per 1 galon water

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How long have the plants been in the MG soil? If it's the 6 month formula, half-doses of nutrients might still be too much. If it's the 3 month formula, half doses might be fine over the long-haul. Regardless, your soil buffers (lime) is likely been depleted, as you are showing signs of your ph taking a dive. (yellowing, lockout, the "claw"...) You might want to find a way to raise your ingoing water ph to adjust for this.
Allow soil to dry between treatments, feedings, waterings. Root rot comes fast and hard.
Might want to think of a calcium and magnesium source for mid to late flowering. I use unsulfered molasses at 1 tsp per gallon of properly ph'd water, once a week. (replaces CalMag Plus)

Quit over-correcting and wait for solid advise. This coffee grounds and mixing different soils stuff is a bad idea for container gardening.

I had to "un-ignore" to read Tevfik's reply. I should have left him on ignore. His insight is uninspiring and wrong, in my opinion.

I'm inclined to agree with Tevfik. Those pots are to small for plants that size. Funny that tevfik says "no nute def" but then says to give more nutes, though. More soil is required and I believe more fert is too. Plants continue to grow in flower and need Nitrogen, even if in small amounts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by polishpollack

Funny that tevfik says "no nute def" but then says to give more nutes, though

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I meant there is no over fertilizing. I should use my dictionary more often :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

6.7 is fine in peat-based soils. 6.0 is a bit low. Will cover that later...

BAD idea to add anything that hasn't been composted. Organics tend to rot in the pots when not composted.

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Thanks and your right, I didnt know 6.0 was to low untill checking out the charts here. I was told and shown a high times article that says optimal PH zone for MJ is 5.7 to 6.5. Which is why I tryed lowering my PH. Ill include a pic of the hight times chart

I didnt know about the composting thing. Thats very helpfull to know and will save me trouble later on in life thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

Wow. Mind me asking where you are getting these "helpful" tips?
Aerated the soil...? Normal watering does that every time you water. (draws-down the fresh air via suction)
Here, you say ph is at 6.7, but below you mention N/A for ph. Which is it, and what are you using to get a test result of 6.7?

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I actually searched this site and read a tun of "yellowing" threads. Im not sure which thread it was but airating was recomended if the plants coudnt be re-poted. I figured it was nothing that would harm the plant so I gave it a try. There were tuns of other recomendations as im sure you know but with out a liquid Ph tester I didnt want to do anything that was drastic. (obviously I had that revalation after the coffee incident lol)
I used a rapitest from e bay, so i figure it will only work for another month or so. I did order a pen for liquid testing but its still in route. So for now I can ony test the soil, which has constantly been at 6.7

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobyvila
.7) Specific brand and type of soil,
Miracle grow potting soil with an inch or two of Fafard organics patting mix to replace after fushing

Fafards is buffered to between 5.5 and 6.0, per their website. (a tad too low)

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I didnt know that it was so low. I actually wouldnt have used it if had known but it was the only organic soil in the store. I see that you are against mixing soil so ill pick up more MG 6 month to keep it steady, well keep it steadyer..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

How long have the plants been in the MG soil? If it's the 6 month formula, half-doses of nutrients might still be too much. If it's the 3 month formula, half doses might be fine over the long-haul. Regardless, your soil buffers (lime) is likely been depleted, as you are showing signs of your ph taking a dive. (yellowing, lockout, the "claw"...) You might want to find a way to raise your ingoing water ph to adjust for this.
Might want to think of a calcium and magnesium source for mid to late flowering. I use unsulfered molasses at 1 tsp per gallon of properly ph'd water, once a week. (replaces CalMag Plus)

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The plants have been in the MG soil for there entire life, which is over 2 months. I believe 10 weeks. I used MG 6 month mix, not the 3. Once I get the liquid ph tester I can get the results out to you. I will start looking in to a calcium and mgnesiun source too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

Allow soil to dry between treatments, feedings, waterings. Root rot comes fast and hard.

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I allow the top inch or two to dry before any waterings. I've only heard about root rot and am trying to stay clear of it. The combination of the small pots and my allowing the plants to fully dry between waterings might be aiding any deficiencies.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

then save for a ph pen or at least a freshwater aquarium ph test kit. ($7.00 or so) I've never seen a soil ph probe I didn't throw away

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Im going to head over to the locall pet store and pick one up. I didnt think about purchasing one from there, now I wont have to wait for the other one to ship. Ill have to tap in to the college fund though, ill consider it a rainy day lol.
I find it funny that you throw away your probs, I actually hold them in the same respect especially since it was an ebay buy. I dont trust it completely but it has been giving my consistent values. what else do you recommend to check the soil?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

Quit over-correcting and wait for solid advise. This coffee grounds and mixing different soils stuff is a bad idea for container gardening.

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Ya the coffee grind thing was from my grandfather and his tomatoes, I was just using the resources I had available before I joined this site. Dont think that im running around all confused waving my arms changing eveything. Im listening to everyone equally and waiting to see what happenes after the re-potting. The aerating was just a bandaid fix. Im hoping its just the pot size, we will see. I do appreciate your advice!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tevfik

Yes, once you repot you'll be fine. You can go like this but all the leaves will be yellow soon if you stay in that pot.
You don't need to worry about other things what most of the others saying here. There is no nutrient deficiency, there is no PH issue. Your plant is starving. Start feeding her, get new pots asap.
After all you'll be fine.

Try to find out those flower and bloom nutes schedule. Some bloom nutrients only recommended after 5-6 weeks of flowering.

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I have the pots im just going to pick up some new soil. I see that the Fafard has too low of a Ph level so I dont want to use it. I started with MG so it might be fine to finish with. Im hoping that since its the 6 month mix it will also help out to continue with my no nute def! Thanks


-First pic the high times article which made me try to lower my PH,
-Second pic is current. Last pic before re-potting

For the charts check this and the next post: http://boards.cannabis.com/plant-pro...ml#post1805695

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

I didnt know about the composting thing. Thats very helpfull to know and will save me trouble later on in life thanks

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Fine for outdoor gardening, bad for container gardening. Same goes for egg shells, table scraps, dead fish...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

I find it funny that you throw away your probs, I actually hold them in the same respect especially since it was an ebay buy. I dont trust it completely but it has been giving my consistent values. what else do you recommend to check the soil?

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I know a couple of gardeners onsite that use 'em, but I've never had one that does anything other than tell when the soil is wet (acidic) or when it's dry. (alkaline) I've only had 3 in my life, none were worth a damn.
You can get around having to test the soil by using the ph pen. Know your ingoing ph, then test the runoff ph. If the numbers are the same, (or within a couple of decimal points) your soil is fine. If your soil ph is dropping, you know the lime in the soil is likely fading. If the ph comes out higher...you're adding, or have added, something to make that increase happen. But if the runoff is still in-range, don't sweat it.
MG soil is usually a tad low for my likes, and has become a bit inconsistent. I e-mailed 'em about the differences, and was told that they buffer to between 5.5 and 7.5. It used to be a tighter range, (it's what I learned to grow cannabis with) but that has changed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

The aerating was just a bandaid fix. Im hoping its just the pot size, we will see.

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Let the soil dry, and carefully pop the rootball out. If rootbound, all you'll see is...roots. (little or no soil visible) Give yourself room to do this, as the branches will be vulnerable to tabletops, trash can edges...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

I do appreciate your advice!

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Some do, some don't. But thanks. (or you're welcome...) :thumbsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

I see that the Fafard has too low of a Ph level so I dont want to use it. I started with MG so it might be fine to finish with. Im hoping that since its the 6 month mix it will also help out to continue with my no nute def! Thanks

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Most any medium you use, you will have to learn it's quirks and needs.
You can compensate (by a couple of decimal points of ph) by raising the ingoing ph to the high side. Most any medium can be adjusted to suit your needs, but some need more than just raising the ingoing liquid ph. Fafards isn't the worst choice. I guarantee a lot of gardeners would prefer it to the MG, but MG has an undeserved bad rap, IMHO.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

Let the soil dry, and carefully pop the rootball out. If rootbound, all you'll see is...roots. (little or no soil visible) Give yourself room to do this, as the branches will be vulnerable to tabletops, trash can edges...

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Ill take a picture to give you a look at whats going on under there I have the whole floor and plan on being gentle

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tevfik

For the charts check this and the next post: http://boards.cannabis.com/plant-pro...ml#post1805695

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Ok im ready to swap pots I went and got the same MG soil. It turns out to be the 3 month brand and not the 6. So even less neutrients than thought.
I picked up a freshwater Ph tester too. Its a "wardley" and with my good eye I got 6.4 for my freshwater PH. Im going to change the pots now and have a major question. With the new MG soil should I continue with a half feed or go with a full dosage. This will be my last feed cycle too.

Ya the chart from high times trew me off big time, but you guys got me pointed in the right direction now.

Sure wish you had come in sooner. Kinda late to be making these changes...but ya gotta do what ya gotta do, and it'll be a good learning experience.

Nothing but plain, properly ph'd water till she recovers from the transplant. Let soil dry between waterings. Her new growth will tell you how she's doing. Old, yellowed leaves are old news, and won't recover much vigor or color.

Did you already transplant? If so, according to Miracle Grow, there will be an initial release of nitrogen. IMHO, the best way to deal with that for flowering is a good, (at least a gallon of water for every gallon of pot size) and slow flush with properly ph'd water. This is an attempt to wash-away that initial kick. There will be a little stress from the transplant and the new (fresh) nutrients. After the initial release, it's a quazi-balanced nutrient delivery with every watering. Watch for reaction before offering any more nutrients, and likely she's far enough along that you shouldn't need more nutrients. Perhaps some unsulfered molasses at one teaspoon per gallon per week.

If you haven't transplanted yet, you can flush the MG soil prior to use. But then you get to play with goopy, clumpy, sticky soil for the transplant.

Your plants should let you know if they want more flowering nutrients. If you aren't sure, ask here first. Most likely you won't need to feed her again. :thumbsup:

I'm guessing that Wardley is a color-coded test kit...? Most color-coded test kits are accurate enough for clear liquids, but keep in mind that tinted water skews the results.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

keep in mind that tinted water skews the results.

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Dammit :wtf:

I actually just finised the transplant. They are in 9x 10's now. The roots were fairly circled at the bottom of the pots. There was dirt ide say 60% white 40% soil. I had two pictures but my phone deleted them.

If i havent changed the ph of my plain water yet, is it ok to make this flush with it?

This is the new pot,

I just checked the Ph of a new bottle of Poland Spring with my trusty Wardley compared it to my tap water. The poland sping is a little bit lighter at 6.3 the tap (which is kinda brown..ish) is darker at 6.4.

I think im going to flush with the tap like i've done before without altering its PH..

Are you refering to the color-coded results, or is your tap water brownish out of the tap...? :wtf:

Both ph numbers are low, but still in range. I'd go with the tap water though. Cheaper and easier.

Good luck. :thumbsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

Are you refering to the color-coded results, or is your tap water brownish out of the tap...? :wtf:

Both ph numbers are low, but still in range. I'd go with the tap water though. Cheaper and easier.

Good luck. :thumbsup:

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I was refering to the tap actually, thank god for my britta! I flushed them out took about 3 hours got more than 2 gal through. I have a cup of the first runoff and am waiting for the PH pen to get a result. I did however do some testing with my new toy.

Tap PH: 6.5-6.6
Poand spring PH: 6.1-6.2


I also checked the PH of the water that I use between feedings and its PH is right above the poland springs at 6.2-6.3. I checked twice to make sure. So my ingoing waters PH is 6.2-6.3 and thats only what the plants get other than the two flushes i did.

Here is a picture from today

Let the soil dry-out before doing anything else to her.

Tapwater ph is likely fine. Have you tried using it without running it through the Britta? No need to change things on this plant, but it would be worth a try on one still in the growth phase. Nothing worse than having to purchase and transport water or filters when it's almost free out of the tap. The bottled water ph is pretty low, and might be contributing to the claw effect on your lower leaves. Especially if the medium is losing it's buffering, (the buffers fade over time) or if soil ph was low to begin with.

No the britta is for personal use. I never thought about using it for the plants, way to much work. The soil is still very moist and the humidity is steady at 40. I think its going to be at least two more days before any thought of watering. She is still yellowing from the bottom up but the new growth is nice and green. Im sure shes still in shock from the transplant. No sign of the Ph pen either. I have included todays picture and one from a few weeks ago, right when I should have joind here. Thanks for the help again.

At least you'll get a good deal of product out of these.

Thanks dude I hope so too. I think Ill get enugh to be happy, and the main thing is I finally get some solid information. Yeild is good but knowledge is better =).

"Give a man a fish and he'll get hungry again. Teach him how to fish and he won't be hungry anymore."

Ok so I have some timelines I was able to figure out. I went through my notes and this is what i have. The pants began yellowing two months after using MG 3 month formula, or around the 15th day of 12/12. So with the high consumption of nutrients from the plant, and the low level of feed (only two to three "half" feedings.) She began starving. Ide have to say that around the 15th day of flowering she began giving signs of a lack of nutrition but I had not noticed. I assumed it was a PH issue. Today is 44 days of 12/12. Ill get the milk/amber % out ASAP. I still have fairly moist soil, so no need for watering anytime soon. Thats 5 days since the flushing. She is still yellowing from the bottom up slowly, but the new growth is green and heathy. There are some back spots on the yellow leaves but I think thats from them drying/dying. I took PH leves of the soil yesterday and it was a drastic 7.3... Im going to try the soil PH tester again hopefuly it lowers. Ill post the results.
In the meen time enjoy the pics.
The first three are of my most stressed baby, and the last picture is of her room mate.

nice grow, can't wait to see how much you get in dry weight.

The trichomes regretably are only 40% white 60% clear. Im going to give her 24 hours of dark tonight and then cut her down. Ive been hoping the stress didnt get to her, but the swap allong with a PH of 7.3 and it looks llike she wont mak it much farther. I checked the trichromes of my other two plants and there at the same percentage. Those two however have another week before I have to cut her down so I hope I can get her to some ammount of amber.

This is todays picture, dont mind the cheezy phone text on it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobyvila

The trichomes regretably are only 40% white 60% clear. Im going to give her 24 hours of dark tonight and then cut her down. Ive been hoping the stress didnt get to her, but the swap allong with a PH of 7.3 and it looks llike she wont mak it much farther. I checked the trichromes of my other two plants and there at the same percentage. Those two however have another week before I have to cut her down so I hope I can get her to some ammount of amber.

This is todays picture, dont mind the cheezy phone text on it.

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Did you give this plant any ferts? If so im sure thats why it looks burnt. MG has the 3 months feeding in it so adding anything, but maybe molasses will burn it up. When using pre loaded soil, never put anything in it but water through out the grow, you will not need it, just burn your plant up.



:rasta:

nice plant man :) im on the way to urs lmao

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ganjhound

nice plant man :) im on the way to urs lmao

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Ha ha cool bro =)!!! I havent cut her down yet. I have been procrastinating more than expected. I still have one more level of leaves that can yellow before it hits the buds. So i figured I would wait it out till the very end. There my babies and I want them to mature nicely!! Today is exactly 7 weeks of flowering. Its been 10 days since there last watering. The soi is drying up but still damp from the flush. I havent checked the PH but it was last at 7.4. I figure with the little time left I will only get one or two waterings at the most (@6.3Ph).. Ill keep ya updated!
Thaks again for the help everyone!!