Purple stem problem

What is your experience level? Second grow

Your Equipment:
.1) Type and wattage of lights. ( tube fluorescent)
.2) Distance from tops? 2-3 inch
.3) Reflector type? ( 4 foot standard fluorescent dual tube
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? Yes
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? Yes
.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? total 185 watts

Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil- Roots Organic Potting soil
.8) Size of container. 2-4 gallon
.9) Did you use peat pucks (or similar) to root clones or germinate seedlings? No

Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap) What's it's ph before adjusting? 7
11) Method of checking water ph. ( aquarium test kit)
12) Method of adjusting water ph. (None YET)
13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule. Botanicare Problend Grow..1tbps/gal tap water
14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering? 1 watering
15) Any additives or tea's? (I just started using molasses on my flowering not on veg ladies yet...still figuring it out only doing 1tbps/1 gal tap water )
16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate? kinda stable
17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph? Will know soon
18) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray? Yes 3 times a week after watering and with spray bottle.

Your growroom:
19) Indoors or outdoors? Indoors
20) What size of closet, room or hut? 4x8
21) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off? on 70's 25-30%..... Off 70's 40%
22) Have 0seen signs of insects in the growroom? No

Your strain:
23) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?) DJ Blueberry, Skunk, DJ Short Flo
24) From seeds or clones? Clones
25) Is this an autoflower strain? No

Hey guys just trying to figure out what's up with my 2 vegging clones and single flowering plant. I have purple stripes going all the way up the stalk to the stems even the leaves branches. The vegging plants seem healthy just the damn purple stripes...The flowering plant is kinda droopy an yellowing at the top by the bud sites.

I'm going to check the flo-thru ph and see what's up. I did some searching and seen some info about lack of Mg or P. LMK guys

Thanks-:thumbsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TurboNugs

15) Any additives or tea's? (I just started using molasses on my flowering not on veg ladies yet...still figuring it out only doing 1tbps/1 gal tap water )

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Cut back on the molasses. At most, I give 1 tsp per gallon per week in flower. much less in veg. (1 tsp per gallon, twice a month or so)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TurboNugs

16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate? kinda stable

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Keep ingoing water ph stable. You can't get an accurate runoff ph with the color-coded ph test kits. The water tinting skews results, and the buffers in the soil help keep runoff ph in line.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TurboNugs

17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph? Will know soon
18) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray? Yes 3 times a week after watering and with spray bottle.

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Keep ingoing water between 6.3 and 6.8 ph.
Why are you spraying them?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TurboNugs

I did some searching and seen some info about lack of Mg or P. LMK guys

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Since you are already giving an overdose of molasses, likely too much mg already.

If no damage, death or malformations, the purple stripes could easily be genetic.

Here's a link to a chart on tomatoes. I know that seems strange but I doubt if your plant is much different. In the past, people have said that purple on a plant is a result of phosphorus deficiency. If you scroll down this webpage to the chart where it says "Table 1," the first thing listed is "purple leaves." It says a lack of phosphorus is the cause. Your fert is a little short on this nute so you might consider increasing the dose or switching ferts. You'd think the product would be good for the plant, with the money you spend on it, but perhaps you have a strain that need more phosphorus or there's a problem going on that prevents the nute from being used. It's hard to tell. I'm guessing this is the problem, but I'm not an expert. Just found this on the web regarding your problem.
Recognizing Tomato Problems

I hear that a lot, but am not a believer. It usually isn't the leaves not getting/using the phosphorous, (they're still green) it's the stems and petioles, which is a major structural and functional distinction.

I use 1/4 tsp of phDown per gallon of water to correct my ph. phDown is phosphoric acid. This gives me a huge bump in phosphorous every time I water, and every time I fertilize. But, I still get those red racing stripes and purplish petioles too. Could be from cooler nights, warmer days, too much potassium, (or not enough?) light spectrum issues, lights too close (dark red (purple) is a hue some plants use as a 'sunblock') micronutrient differences or deficiencies, roots too dry, roots too moist or combinations of these and more. From what I've seen, nobody knows exactly. Lots of hypothesis, but nothing proven through biology, nor backed-up through testing by others.

No big deal, to me. Especially if that's the worst thing you can find 'different' about your crop is the purple. :thumbsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

Cut back on the molasses. At most, I give 1 tsp per gallon per week in flower. much less in veg. (1 tsp per gallon, twice a month or so)


Keep ingoing water ph stable. You can't get an accurate runoff ph with the color-coded ph test kits. The water tinting skews results, and the buffers in the soil help keep runoff ph in line.


Keep ingoing water between 6.3 and 6.8 ph.
Why are you spraying them? Why not it's just water


Since you are already giving an overdose of molasses, likely too much mg already.

If no damage, death or malformations, the purple stripes could easily be genetic.

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thinking this also

Quote:

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Originally Posted by polishpollack

Here's a link to a chart on tomatoes. I know that seems strange but I doubt if your plant is much different. In the past, people have said that purple on a plant is a result of phosphorus deficiency. If you scroll down this webpage to the chart where it says "Table 1," the first thing listed is "purple leaves." It says a lack of phosphorus is the cause. Your fert is a little short on this nute so you might consider increasing the dose or switching ferts. You'd think the product would be good for the plant, with the money you spend on it, but perhaps you have a strain that need more phosphorus or there's a problem going on that prevents the nute from being used. It's hard to tell. I'm guessing this is the problem, but I'm not an expert. Just found this on the web regarding your problem.
Recognizing Tomato Problems

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Thanks polishpollack good info!!:thumbsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

I hear that a lot, but am not a believer. It usually isn't the leaves not getting/using the phosphorous, (they're still green) it's the stems and petioles, which is a major structural and functional distinction.

I use 1/4 tsp of phDown per gallon of water to correct my ph. phDown is phosphoric acid. This gives me a huge bump in phosphorous every time I water, and every time I fertilize. But, I still get those red racing stripes and purplish petioles too. Could be from cooler nights, warmer days, too much potassium, (or not enough?) light spectrum issues, lights too close (dark red (purple) is a hue some plants use as a 'sunblock') micronutrient differences or deficiencies, roots too dry, roots too moist or combinations of these and more. From what I've seen, nobody knows exactly. Lots of hypothesis, but nothing proven through biology, nor backed-up through testing by others.

No big deal, to me. Especially if that's the worst thing you can find 'different' about your crop is the purple. :thumbsup:

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I'm gonna try monitoring the pH going in better with and with-out nutes. Also ease up alot on the molasses. I picked up some Cal-Mag, Clearex , Sweet and Hydroplex all from Botanicare nutes today. I got pH UP and pH DOWN to..so im ready .

Thanks for all the information/advice Rusty Trichome.

Ohhh and I have my MMJ license guys:thumbsup:

Congrats on the license.

Your temps are in the 70's. We run in the low 70's for hydro and the cooler climate just makes some strains turn purple. Some have strips on them and some really purple up good on bud leaf. Young ones start all green and then turn slowly or stripe up. Seems to be mostly Indica strains here. Sativa's maintain that green.

As long as they look good no worries. Just keep an eye out for problems.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LOC NAR on probation

Congrats on the license.

Your temps are in the 70's. We run in the low 70's for hydro and the cooler climate just makes some strains turn purple. Some have strips on them and some really purple up good on bud leaf. Young ones start all green and then turn slowly or stripe up. Seems to be mostly Indica strains here. Sativa's maintain that green.

As long as they look good no worries. Just keep an eye out for problems.

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Good to know man thanks for your insight. :cool:

In between watering for now just, hoping nothing happens from earlier past week pH fail. Oh well nothing for now just the purple stem "thinking genetics,humidy lil low, or temps" we shall see:wtf:

- Thanks All again for all your help and knowledge!!!!!:weedpoke:

During the summer, my growrooms never dip below 80ish. Usually more twords 85ish, but I still get the stripes. So I know for a fact it isn't lower temps that brings this on.

CalMag or CalMag Plus isn't necessary when using molasses. More calcium and more magnesium (CalMag) is overkill, and will have the same effects as too much molasses.

Purple genetics are plants that the leaves purple-up late in flower under the right conditions. Usually associated with lower temps, but plant maturity is also a trigger. Might be a 'bleed-through' genetic trait that also shows in early flower, in some cases, under the right conditions. (a result of too much inbreeding?)

I'm not going to pretend to know what it is, but I DO know what it isnt, lol.

Congrats on the license. Don't brag about it to your friends, as friends often are the ones that will steal your shit or get you busted.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

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Congrats on the license. Don't brag about it to your friends, as friends often are the ones that will steal your shit or get you busted.

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I'm holding off on the molasses for this grow...maybe next round with more attention to my pH.

I have a few questions about pruning my SCROG ladies and if i should eliminate the lower branches that don't have much light...plus they look weak and lil pale. I also wonder about the canopy area and pruning some leaves to gain more light to a bud site.:wtf:

Should I post a pic or two?

Thanks for the help Rusty....ohhh majority of my friends also grow, but no one really knows what im doing. :pimp:

I'd do a search for scrogging (or scrog, or screen of green, or low stress twisty tie training) techniques, as there's likely some handy insight available around here somewhere. I don't scrog, and wouldn't be comfortable telling others how to do something I haven't any hands-on experience with.

For a 'normal' grow, I usually let the dying stuff die on it's own, and pick up the leaf litter when necessary. But with a scrog, I believe training and trimming is an ongoing process.

Been searching and lurking found some good scrog info...damn i think i veg'ed to long oh well....learning curve is a bitch:jointsmile:

Im also thinking of lowering my Cooltube a little bit more .....damn thing stays really cool.

Check how close you can get the back of your hand to the tube without discomfort. This is the approximate distance the light should be.

Well hell i could rest my hand directly on the glass for awhile...so i dropped them to about 3'' above highest point of canopy. Very Nice....i like the cool tube, but the footprint on it seems to be kinda small...and when i take the "attachment" reflector thing off the light is more spread out and less concentrated on the ladies. So im gonna go with my current plan and keep it close .

Shoot. I just noticed...You're using four foot fluoro tubes, right? There's a huge difference between cool tubes and fluoro tubes. Cool tubes are clear, tube-shaped housings for HID bulbs with an airflow to remove much of the heat.

If you keep a fan on the plants, heat from the lights is rarely an issue for fluorescent tubes. The closer the better, but obviously keep an eye on the plants for burn spots or stress.

Light from fluorescent tubes are only effective within 4-6 inches, depending on wattage. Reflected light hits the reflector (or wall) and bounces back to the plant. If those two distances added together are greater than the maximum effective range, the reflected light isn't doing anything for the plant.
For instance...if the reflector is 1 inch from the bulb, but the reflector is 5 inches from the plant...you are at your (approximate) maximum distance away from the light. (5+1=6) The same goes for walls and Panda Film stuff.

But if the reflector keeps the light out of your eyes, then I guess it could be a benefit. :thumbsup:

For better results, you'll want lights with more 'oomph' for flowering.

Ok hold the phone, in this thread I'm having "problems" in my veg room with two plants(purple stem). That room has the tube fluorescent lights. I was asking about my flowering room lighting (Cool Tube 19"x6" with 600 eye hort hps and Lummatek switchable ballast. Light is cooled with a 430cfm inline) I should of been more specific.....so for the record im in two different rooms with completely different lighting.:thumbsup:

I cluttered my own thread LOL:jointsmile:

Rusty sorry to confuse!!!

Difficult to keep track.

If you do keep the cool tube that close, make darned sure the inline fan is reliable.
Effective distance is what...4 feet? There is a point of diminishing returns and possible light bleaching, so keep you eyes peeled for damage.

Light bleaching ? Some of the new top leaves are yellow/neon green surrounding the bud sites. Damn I'm a newb . I cant post pics yet.

Having the same issue as Rusty,... It's hard to track,.... which side is having the yellow new growth leaves?

Im just going to make a new thread on the indoor growing area. I just got to question/concern happy and didn't give you guys all the info. Sorry fellas:(

Ok made another thread to give you guys a better idea of what im trying to do.

http://boards.cannabis.com/indoor-gr...-new-post.html


-Thanks :stoned: