I just can't figure out what's happening.
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I just can't figure out what's happening.
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it looks like multiple things. any information given now would be a guess at best. fill out the troubleshooting form (link in my sig) and you will get better, more precise information.
-shake
What is your experience level? (first timer)
Your Equipment:
.1) (sun/out side)
.2)
.3)
.4)
.5)
.6)
Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (regular plant soil/Home depot)
.8) Size of container. (3 gallon)
.9) Did you use peat pucks (No)
Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap)
11) Method of checking water ph. (None)
12) Method of adjusting water ph. (None)
13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle.(??)
14) How often are you watering (every 2 or 3 days)
15) Any additives or tea's? (No)
16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate?(I dont know)
17) What is your ingoing water's ph? .(i dont know)
18) Do you foliar feed? If so(?????)
Your growroom:
19) (outdoors)
20) What size of closet, room or hut?
21) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off?
22) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom?(No)
Your strain:( i dont know)
23) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?)
24) From seeds or clones?
25) Is this an autoflower strain?
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are you feeding your plant any nutes at all?
-shake
you need to check your PH.
99% of the ppl i see (including myself) who are new at growing, have problems stemming from unstable PH level. and you want to let tap water sit out for at least 24 hours so it can get the chlorine and other harmful chemicals out.
Im not and expert, but im sure some would agree with me
I just repoted like 4 weeks ago with soil that has food in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by headshake
I have been using tap water, would it help if I just buy gallons of Filtered water?Quote:
Originally Posted by SoHigh420
there is obviously a pH issue, but that's not the only thing. i would rather get a full picture before just throwing out a general diagnosis. with tip burn and leaf curl like that, there is more than a pH issue. the soil probably had nutes in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by SoHigh420
waiting for answers....
-shake
I was thinking that it has something to do with the weather and location of the plant. For the past two weeks it has been raining a lot and temperatures below 80 here in New York. I keep this plant in my fire escape and i have noticed that because its sitting in the fire escape the sun does not hit the plant directly all day long. I just moved the plant to the roof top to see if it lacks full sunlight. I will start to let water sit in buckets before watering.Quote:
Originally Posted by headshake
you've got nutrient discrepency problems, due in part to a pH problem. it is possible that you have some rootbound issues.
if it were a direct light issue (which could inpart be the culprit) you would still have green healthy looking plants. you've got burnt tips with a good amount of curl, not a weather/temp issue.
what is the NPK rating of your home depot soil?
-shake
I used Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Flowers & Vegetables. I threw away the bag so i don't know any info.
miracle grow tends to run a little "hot", or powerful on the ferts. it's often good to cut the soil with something, whether it be perlite or soil or whatever that doesn't have nutes in it.
you can try to leach the nutes out, or pour large amounts of pH'd water through your pots to get the built up nutes out.
you could also transplant into a better quality soil. that's what i would do. then get yourself some nutes to use so YOU can control the feeding of your lady.
-shake
what soil should i get and what is a nute? I was thinking nute is short for nutrients?
nute is short for nutrient. and an organic soil would be best as anything with salt-based nutes will be less forgiving. it's almost impossible to overfeed with organic. if you can get to a hydro store go with something like roots organics.
-shake
Do i need to add anything to the organic soil? I will buy the soil and repot to a 5 gallon pot.Quote:
Originally Posted by headshake
at this point and time you just want the plant to get healthy. anything you add is merely another variable. you want to keep it simple.
after you transplant give it some pH'd water. start feeding 7-10 days later (possibly not needed depending on soil. if you can get stand alone nutes.).
-shake
Its been two days since i put the plant in my roof top and i know its too early to tell but it seems like the yellowing slowed down and the burning stop spreading. i did noticed some clear like looking hairs coming out the top,I have also two smaller plants that this is happening as well,here a photo of the smaller plant.
You live in NY? and these are outdoors? (rooftop, so natural light cycle) Correct?
Those hairs are female flowers, and good things so long as you got your PH and nute issues worked out,
Guessing here, The little ones are seed grown, and having the same problems as the larger plant, and some of those issues have been worked out.
If I'm right about the seed grown, and the natural light cycle, then you've got a small yield coming from those 2.
Hate to say it, but it's tough to grow outdoors in northern climates. You've gotta get an early start on the season if you want to yield any reasonable crop.
Whats got me confused is that the bottom leaves are all messed up looking but the top leaves look nice and in the center white looking strands are starting to coming out. I am not sure what i should do next.
That plant is hungry for more food. If that were my plant I'd probably go to store and get some chemical fert like Peter's or Schultz and follow the directions on the container. The bottom leaves being yellow and the rest kind of look pale green, and both appearance indicate the plant needs more food. Other than that, it looks ok. Ideally, you get a liquid fert that has alot of micro nutes in it, so if you can afford a little more cash, go to a hydroponic/grow store and get some Dynagrow 7-9-5, which has alot of micronutes and use about one half teaspoon in a gallon of water and give it that. Then wait to see what happens.
Ok fellas i got the Dynagrow 7-9-5 and mixed it with the water. I also got PH tester and tested the water. The PH tester indicated RED which is about 4.0 which is probably one of the reasons why my plant get ugly,i was slowly killing my baby. I made sure the PH went to 6.5, hopefully this will bring my baby back to life. does any one know the time period before i see some changes?
it can take a week to 10 days. maybe two weeks. each environment is different.
-shake
Do you notice any changes yet?
yess i have. The top of the plant just went crazy growing new leaves and the crowns got much bigger,It came back to life. The Dynagrow 7-9-5 you recommended is working awesome. i also gut the hang pf mesuring the Ph levels with the little kit i purchased.I went to a hydroponic store and after looking at all the supply's and talking to a few people there my next grow will be more professional with the correct tools and supply's needed. thanks to all you guys who helped me out through out this enjoyable process. here are a few pics. sorry for the side ways photos,damn I phone. the reason why the plant look so slim is because i clean cut all the deal leaves.Quote:
Originally Posted by polishpollack
Good rebound man...sounds like you got the grow bug now . Have fun and good luck. :thumbsup:
I've had good luck with Dynagrow and used to tell people about it all the time several years ago, until somebody cracked a joke and wondered if I was a Dynagrow salesman. No, not that, but just got a fert that worked great in soil. I think pretty much all the micro nutes you need are in it and it's a great fert for the money. The only problem is you can't let it sit for weeks on end because the ferts inside, especially calcium and phosphorus, will bind to each other and drop to the bottom of the container and you'll see little white chunks down there. So you have to use it fairly quickly as it doesn't have much of a shelf life. You shouldn't need anything else but growers always want to try an additive. The best thing you can give a healthy plant is just time to grow. How about next you try Dynagrow in a bubble bucket. Works great there too, you just use more of the fert. Follow the directions on the back. It's something like a tsp of fert per gallon of water. 4-5 tsps. in a 5 gallon bucket with air pump and air stone and your plant with rock. If done properly (and it's hard to get wrong), your plants with rock your world. Guaranteed. I can tell you how to use a bucket if you want, or research it on the web. I grew a sunflower that got huge fast in a bucket. Killer method and easy to do too.
Can you Give me more info on that?
Sure, it's a bubble bucket, also called deep water culture. Dynagrow works good in hydro because it's all chemical fert, made in a lab. There nothing organic about it. Organic ferts can be trouble because they are high in carbon and bacteria consume alot of carbon and multiply like crazy where there's plenty of food. Dynagrow is lower in carbon so you have reduced bacteria and fungi overgrowth problems, usually indicated by a water reservior that smells bad.
You can research bubble buckets easy enough, but here's what I've done. Your hydro shop can help you out alot on this too. You get a 5 gallon bucket and preferably it's black so light can't get through. If your water is exposed to alot of light, algae will grow in the water making either a brown or green slime on the roots. If you get a bucket that can pass light through its plastic, you have to cover the outside of it including the lid. People usually use duct tape or something similar for this. But try to get a black bucket with a black lid. Your grow shop should be able to show you some different options for this. They will probably have lids that also work like net pots - hole in the middle with a connected net pot. If they don't carry this, they should be able to order it for you. Or get it off the web.
Once your get the bucket and lid, you'll need to get a small air pump like the kind used in aquariums, so what you can do is go to a store like WalMart and in their fish section you can find air pumps. Get one that is what I will call "medium sized." People will probably say that a small one is adequate but you use to air pump to put oxygen in the water, to essentially keep roots from drowing. I'm not sure if that's the real reason, but roots do better in an environment where they can get some oxygen. This is why it's good to let soil dry out - it lets air get to the roots. You will also find skinny plastic tubing in this section along with blue airstones. You don't need alot of tubing to connect the bucket with the airstone, but you want to get medium sized airstones, either at WalMart or your local hydro store. The hydro shop should have all you need to make this work and their products probably have better quality, but I just use WalMart as an example. They have alot of what you need to make this work.
You'll need a drill with a drill bit just about the size of the tubing diameter, which should be about 1/4 inch. You drill a couple holes in the side of the bucket way up toward the top just under the lid. Don't drill through the lid itself because there will be times where you need to take the lid off and it'll be cumbersome to do with the air lines running through the lid. You're going to run the air lines through the holes you make at the bucket's top. Plug the airstones to the ends of the tubing that go inside the bucket. Plug the other tubing ends to the air ports on the air pump. You're pumping air into the water/nute mix inside the bucket with the pump remaining outside the bucket. Hence the name "bubble bucket," as you're creating a ton of bubbles in the water. This oxygenates the water.
To support your plant you can get those little red ceramic pebbles, I think these are called "Hydroton." Your hydro shop can help you once again. You'll need just enough to fill the net pot that's part of the lid. This is like using light gravel to hold the plant in place. You can get something to start a seed like rockwool, but what I think works better is little dark brown plugs made from a mix of rubber and peat. Put your thumbs where the hole is and you can rip it open a little more to accomodate a seed or clone. Fill the net pot about halfway or so with hydroton and place the little plug inside and fill the rest of the net pot with the pebbles. Fill the bucket with distilled water you buy at the store. You can use tap water but I feel better using distilled. It works good. Put one tsp of dynagrow per gallon of water in the bucket, so 4-5 tsp. You want the top of the water to reach the red pebbles. Once you get a seed in the plug, you need to keep the plug wet. What I've done is to pick up the bucket lid and dip a cup into the water fert mix and replace the lid, pouring the liquid over the plug. You have to do this several times a day if possible, to keep it wet. Once a plant gets going and roots are down in the water, you can stop top feeding.
Whether you're growing in soil or hydro, you need to put a small fan on your plants to knock them around a little. This will strengthen the stems.
One thing you really want to master is cloning. Do this in soil to start with and see what success you get. You can get cloning machines at a hydro store but they're very expensive just for a bunch of plastic. You can research how to make your own on google, which is what I did. Youtube has videos of some good make it yourself cloners that just just fert and water. Once you get down a good growing technique, cloning is necessary so learn how. You might even want to learning cloning before bubble bucket, it's that important.
Other people have their techniques and there's a variety of advice out there, some of it is bad so I say keep your grow simple. Don't let the hydro shop talk you into things you don't need. Just try to keep a room temp between 65 to 75 degrees if you can. Temperature is a big problem with alot of indoor grows. You should consider getting a TDS/pH meter from the hydro shop because it will let you know when the fert in the bucket is low. You typically want to shoot for a pH between 6.0 and 7.0 and a TDS (total dissolved solids) amount around 1200 to 1500 parts per million (ppm). I didn't spend money on a meter however. I just fed the plant as it grew because I was too cheap to buy a meter. Since Dynagrow has most, if not all, that a plant requires for nutes you shouldn't see deficiency problems but it might happen. Have to cross that bridge when you get there. If you place still has high temperatures, like 100 degrees, the water will get bacteria and fungi overgrowth and start to stink. It can be better to get rid of the plant and start over than deal with this stuff cause it's difficult to get rid of. Get a new bucket, the whole bit. But we're into September now.
There will probably be responses that agree or disagree with this but this has worked for alot of people. Once you get it all set up you'll encounter some other problems like seed germination and whatnot but you just gotta have patience and keep trying. Ask people for help too.
WoW awesome (polishpollack ) thanks for the info. I will do some research on this.
I was at the hydro store looking at a GrowLab Horticultural Grow Room and a 250W lamp, i didn't ask the guy there many question because i don't want to seem obvious what i am trying to growing but with a system like that can a plant be tricked??
In other words if i want to start a new grow over the winter time is it possible?
here is a few more pics of how well my plant is doing after the dynagrow.it looks like a jungle inside the stem,LOL.
I doubt if you need a grow room specifically. It would be good to use if you need to trap warm air heated by the light inside or just keep the grow covered for secretive reasons, however it could be just a waste of money. The places where you want to spend your money would be on decent lighting, fans and ventilation, seed quality. The 250 watt would work in a small area. You just figure out a way to keep raising the bulb as the plant grows. If you grow a plant or two or three in a small area, like a grow room, you probably don't need to spend money on a reflector. The walls of the room should do that enough for you.
The people in a grow shop already have a good idea what you're growing. That's why they're there, to sell you what you need to have a successful grow. It might be a good idea to always pay cash in these shops though. It isn't illegal to buy what they sell, but you never know. Bad things happen.
Winter tends to be the best time for indoor grows because the lights make so much heat. Not sure what you mean by "can plants be tricked." Nature doesn't trick plants and neither should the indoor grower. That makes me sound like an arrogant prick but it's true. Keep it simple.
It looks like your plant isn't growing vertically enough to keep pace with the branching and leaf growth. This can happen if the light source is too close to the top of the plant. Flouros can be close but HIDs (sodium and MH) should be about a foot or two above the plant. If the light is too high, a plant will stretch and fall over so you have to find the middle ground. I think flouro is really good to use because it doesn't use much power, doesn't make alot of heat, and plants just need enough light to work their chemistry. But if you can only grow a few plants and need to grow them tall to get them to produce enough, then HIDs are the way to go. Personally, I'd go with sodium. People say veg with MH, then switch to sodium but I haven't noticed any difference in a plants ability to grow. I think sodium lights are a little cheaper, run a little cheaper. Get the most bang for your buck. In a small space you could probably avoid getting a reflector and use a bare light bulb. Some will say the light toward the ceiling is wasted and that's probably true, but remember a plant only needs so much and once you provide that, you've done enough. Spend your extra money on good seeds.
YouTube - Homemade hydroponics - How to make a deep water culture (DWC) system
hydro cloner. I built this one, works good. just need to get a fairly strong pump like 200 gallons per hour or more. Note that's water pump you need for this, not air pump like for DWC bucket.
YouTube - StinkBud Cloner Assembly
YouTube - DWC Hydroponics Bucket System
YouTube - Transplanting a Gorgeous Marijuana Clone from Bubble Cloner to Bubble Bucket
I am a bit confused on this..I am growing the plant out side in the sun light so does that mean that it needs more lighting or less?Quote:
Originally Posted by polishpollack
I want to bring my plant inside the house as the weather is dropping here in the north east but i am afraid that i am going make her sick.
I didn't realize it was under the sun. Then you can forget what I wrote. Nothing further away than the sun, eh? You can switch to indoors, but what lighting are you going to use? I'd say get a sodium light. It will continue to grow during flowering, so you might let it get about two and half feet tall or so and put the light on a 12 hours on, 12 hours off cycle, to get it to bud and flower. Hope it's a female.
low nitrogen check ph firstQuote:
Originally Posted by MOBEONER
meded is a hell of a drug
How's it looking these days? If it's in a small container, you might want to transplant to a considerably bigger one. Large rubbermaid tubs work good.
she is doing better than ever,I haven't seen her this green since she was a baby.Quote:
Originally Posted by polishpollack
I have noticed a few changes. some of the inner leaves are developing some bumps and the inner stem area just burst with "flowers/buds?". Also the bottom where the trunk goes in the dirt (for months) it was a purple color now i am starting to see that its turning green. I am not sure what this all mean but i can sure hell tell you that the dyna grow is the SHIT!!!!!!!!!!
I also see a few small little baby plants growing but i don't know where they are coming from, I was thinking the wind may have brought some seeds from some where and ended here.
I can`t seem to upload pics i will try again...
sorry fellas for some reason i can`t get the pics to post up on the forum
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The little plants are from little seeds blown there by the wind or already in the soil when you planted. It's a female, which is great cuz now you can consume her. If it were male you'd be out of luck. I think those bumps mean it's going to frost right up like a white widow. Some plants develop a coating of white frosty stuff on the leaves as the plant matures. Just give it about 12 hours light a day and it'll finish just fine. The Dynagrow works great in both soil and hydro because it has all the micronutes plants need. You just can't let it sit for a year and expect it to remain good. That's the only drawback. Funny how people spend alot on ferts and the wonder what went wrong. Plants only need so much and after that you're killing them with chemicals. One thing to remember is to just give water, no ferts, in the last week or two of life. Let it go for a while and maybe give one more dose of fert when you water, but if you continue to fert all the way to the end, you'll get that in the buds which go in you and that's no good. This will be several weeks away from now though, like maybe a month. When you harvest depends on when the plant is ready and also when you're ready. Pretty amazing how one half teaspoon can make that kind of difference, huh? There another way to grow that's more natural if you want to try it which is you get a box of Foxfarm Fruit and Flower powder fert at the hydro shop and put in one half to a full cup of fert per gallon of potting soil in a large container (so you don't have to transplant later). Then all you have to do is water when the soil is dry. This fert comes with all the bacteria and fungi plants need to thrive. The bacteria and fungi break down the fert into molecules the plants can absorb. This is necessary because potting soil is sterilized at the factory to avoid sending out soil that is contaminated and will kill plants. The bacteria and fungi in powdered ferts are plant-friendly. But you just gotta make sure you get the right powder ferts. They're not all the same. Foxfarm, Whitney Farms, and Dr. Earth are good brands that have the stuff plants need to give best results. Just water when dry and you're golden. You can walk into any hydro shop in this country and see all kinds of fert products, but I know somebody who operates his own store and he says that you don't need 95% of the things he sells. He confided this just to me, no one else. He said you grow with minimal stuff because a plant's genetics are the most important part of the plant. But he's become rich off of selling things to people who don't know what they're doing and they buy all kinds of stuff they don't need. If people were honest here, they would admit they've got various amounts of fertilizer sitting around they don't use. Why? Because using it just kills the plants. Then they come to a forum like this asking what the problem is. People spend way too much money at the grow shop. That's why all those products exist - manufacturers are trying to cash in on the stupidity.
thanks (polishpollack ) your help has been priceless....
Today i looked at my plant and i noticed that there are mushrooms growing on my soil, whats the deal with that????
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Why the hell can`t i post pics on the forum other than links to photobucket???
Well, you've got some mushroom spores in the soil. I'm guessing either this potting soil isn't very fresh, as in, it was used for another plant, or you've picked up alot of small seeds and spores from putting the plant outside. You can remove the shrooms and little plants growing in the soil. Have you thought about trying to clone a branch or two? If it's flowering, there might be some trouble cloning but unless you plan on getting other seeds, cloning might be worth a shot.
Today it was about 90 and i guess the sun killed the shrooms They where all dried up and dead.Now that you said the soil must be going bad should i transplant the plant to new soil and do the powder ferts or should i just try cloning since the plant is already almost done..Quote:
Originally Posted by polishpollack
I would love to learn how to clone, I am sure there are tons of info here in the forum but i have not looked into it.. Any info you would like to share to get me started? thanks.
The mushrooms aren't really a problem. Soil contains multitudes of complex organisms including bacteria and fungus that benefit the plants growing in it. Your soil is fine. ;)
As for cloning. This as a killer thread on a different forum. And is a technique that I'm using to keep my strains around without taking up too much space, there's good info on cloning in there too. It's pretty easy over all.
Bonsai Mums: A Guide - Grasscity.com Forums
Once you get good,... look into this! :cool:
grafting marijuana - Videos - The WEED Report