I am sure they are not over watered, Could it be heat stress?Ph is good,Not over fert. Leaves are droppy and canoing down. the problem is limited to just a few .
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I am sure they are not over watered, Could it be heat stress?Ph is good,Not over fert. Leaves are droppy and canoing down. the problem is limited to just a few .
It's always best to include as much info about the situation you are in, when asking for a diagnosis. My first guess (that's all you'll get are guesses without info) is rootbound and/or ph issues.
The link to the troubleshooting form is in my signature, below. Copy-n-paste the proper form here, answer all you can. ;)
What is your experience level? (, experienced...)
Your Equipment:
.1) Type and wattage of lights. (MH, HPS, CFL'sombo of all 3
.2) Distance from tops? 12inches
.3) Reflector type? (, bare bulb...)
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? yes
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? yes
.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? 250mh 250hps
also some cfl to help out
Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (, peat based soilless... Scotts premium
.8) Size of container.3 gallon
.9) Did you use peat pucks (or similar) to root clones or germinate seedlings?no
Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap, ) What's it's ph before adjusting 6.8
11) Method of checking water ph. (ph pen,)
12) Method of adjusting water ph. (phosphoric acid, white vinegar, hydrated lime, PH Up...)never had to
13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule. 15-30-15 at 1/4 strength MG
14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering?when soil drys out
15) Any additives or tea's? no
16) Are your ph levels stable, yes around 6.6-6.8
17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph? 6.8
18) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray?no
Your growroom:
19) Indoors
20) What size of closet, room or hut? 3x5x5
21) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off?72 lights off up to 85 when on
22) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom?no
Your strain:
23) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?)
24) From seeds or clones?seed
25) Is this an autoflower strain? royal queen royal auto
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peat based soilless... Scotts premium
well if its soiless then your ph is way to high. but if its just the scotts premium dirt then i would say not enough aeration to the soil. are you feeding them every time you water?
Curious where you get your info? Been seeing this from different sources here lately. Please provide a link or two.Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarettes42
WIth peat based soil (often refered to as soilless - a link is below to better explain) the ingoing ph should be in the 6.3 to 6.8 range. (in the link below) Any lower and you are more likely to lock out nutrients. The higher end of the range allows you to have a bit of leeway as the buffers fade. Lowering your ph further is commiting suicide on the installment plan.
Soil Less Potting Mix?
From the article:
"Whatâ??s in a Soilless Potting Mix?
Most soilless mixes are predominantly sphagnum peat moss. Sphagnum peat is lightweight, inexpensive and in certain areas, renewable. Just as importantly, itâ??s well draining yet water retentive. Granted, until you get the peat thoroughly moistened, the particles can be very unpleasant to work with. Peat (alone) is also on the acidic side and most seed starting mixes have a soil pH around 5.8, which is fine for starting most seeds.
There are also amendments added to the peat, which can include:
"
and it goes on from there, but does fail to mention the buffers.
PH and Nutrient Uptake charts!
oops, i forgot the ? in his ts form i was unclear if he was using a soiless or what
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (, peat based soilless... Scotts premium
i thought 6.3-6.5 is the range for soiless while coco is slightly lower
Whew...thought for a minute there you'd gone to the dark side. :eek:
sorry it is soil.There is only 2 1/2 weeks to go on them. I cut the bottom of 3 worst one and pancaked into another bucket. that should eliminate root bound. O roots looked good no rot.but there were clusters at bottom of container. I was feeding1/4 strength mg every other watering .watered 1-2 a week depending on conditions.heat is also a factor, but i now have ac.This is the first autos i have seen ,where thee root filled a 3 gallon contanier.Again ph was 6.8 it is very constistent. That is run off. Could it be a nitrogen overdose? Because of the mg?
if you cut the roots while in flowering then i think your plant is going to die or not do anything cause of the stress. is there any perlite or something to loosen up that dirt or is it straight out of the bag?
Ok. I figured out your problem...Lack of patience.
Tiz bad juju cutting 'em open this late into flower. The plants will tend to get even. Couldn't you wait for help or instruction? Might have been as easy as lifting the rootball and adding some fresh soil. perhaps a transplant into a larger container. Surgery this deep into flower is for dire emergencies only.
Oh well. If they start to look too stressed, raise the lights a tad for a few days.
Your mix has perlite, and is a peat-based product. It"s ph buffered, and contains organic nutrients. Y'all gotta get this soil/soilless thing out of your heads. It'll mess ya up forever, lol.
If 6.8 ph is your accurate runoff number, that's about perfect. At least you're not using color coded drops. ;)
A nutrient schedule is just that...a schedule. When I was using the MG, I was also giving 1/4 strength twice a week, but it is best to do so consistently. Inconsistent nutes promote inconsistent growth and deficiencies, or conversely, you can easily OD them. Plus, every once in a while they like properly ph'd freshwater if possible.
all is well didnt hurt roots, hummin right along ,thanks for the input
If you didn't stretch, fold, spindle or mutilate the roots, it might just be a minor set-back. If you manhandled them, this might be more than a set-back. Keep an eye out for nanners for the next 7-10 days. That's usually about how long they take to form once the lady has been overstressed.
Good luck though. :thumbsup:
Will do rusty . i did it only cause i had to.You are the best as far as advice goes.thanks.
no nanners, 2 of the 3 exploded when givin more room for the roots. I will say i was extremely careful with roots. other one that root got moved around just finished up alittle light but the others made up for it. thanks again.