curing in Colorado

I would be curious to hear what others are doing to cure.

I've been enjoying going back to some old stuff, and can really appreciate the difference after a month or two over just-harvested of the same variety.

The biggest problem is letting them hang too long. It seems like sometimes 1 day is too short and two days is too much, with it getting too dry.

Lately, I've been just hanging for 1 day, then I remove the buds from the stems and put in a 1 gallon jar, leave the lid off, fill it about half full, and lay it on its side. Then I roll and turn it daily mixing stuff up for a week or so, then I lid it up and remove the lid every few days until the moisture is just right.

At this point, I notice if it is refrigerated in its jar it holds its color really well for a very long time.

what are y'all doing? Any tricks for best color?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by copobo

I would be curious to hear what others are doing to cure.

I've been enjoying going back to some old stuff, and can really appreciate the difference after a month or two over just-harvested of the same variety.

The biggest problem is letting them hang too long. It seems like sometimes 1 day is too short and two days is too much, with it getting too dry.

Lately, I've been just hanging for 1 day, then I remove the buds from the stems and put in a 1 gallon jar, leave the lid off, fill it about half full, and lay it on its side. Then I roll and turn it daily mixing stuff up for a week or so, then I lid it up and remove the lid every few days until the moisture is just right.

At this point, I notice if it is refrigerated in its jar it holds its color really well for a very long time.

what are y'all doing? Any tricks for best color?

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I cut my plants early AM. Trim all of the buds and place them on drying racks in a small room that has three fans blowing air against walls so that there is no direct air movement over the buds;. This room is kept at 50% humidity and 70 degrees F for 7 days. On the 8th day I start dropping the humidity so that by the 10th day it is around 30%. At this point, the stems should snap cleanly. Then I move the buds into 1/2 gallon curing jars (about 2/3 full), put them in a dark room at 60 degrees F/40% humidity and start burping them. This goes on for around 10 days and during this time I slowly drop the humidity to 30%. At that point they are burped a couple times a day for the next 2 weeks. After that, they are sealed and allowed to sit in a dark cool room for another couple of weeks. After that I burn a bud to see if I believe in the product. If I do and I think it is ready, I weigh it up and give my patients and client dispensaries a call. The longer you cure (if properly done), the better the smoke will be. If I could afford to wait a year in curing, I would.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by copobo

I would be curious to hear what others are doing to cure.

I've been enjoying going back to some old stuff, and can really appreciate the difference after a month or two over just-harvested of the same variety.

The biggest problem is letting them hang too long. It seems like sometimes 1 day is too short and two days is too much, with it getting too dry.

Lately, I've been just hanging for 1 day, then I remove the buds from the stems and put in a 1 gallon jar, leave the lid off, fill it about half full, and lay it on its side. Then I roll and turn it daily mixing stuff up for a week or so, then I lid it up and remove the lid every few days until the moisture is just right.

At this point, I notice if it is refrigerated in its jar it holds its color really well for a very long time.

what are y'all doing? Any tricks for best color?

---

If you're drying them out in a single day you're locking a lot of clorophyll in the buds, and if they get too dry the curing process will not continue, even if you add moisture it will not continue from what I've read.

One guy on here said he drys at 70% humidity, at that level I believe things could mold, especially with the moisture level in the buds. Theres a great writeup on icmag about curing, all of you're questions are explained in it, hell I think it was even posted here in the colorado section as well.

Anyways, if its in the jar and above 70% humidity it's going to mold. Thats why you need to monitor the rh while its in the jars, start jaring when the stems are still somewhat plyable but do not snap, buds should be hard to the touch. I bought the recommended hygrometer but it's really close to the $7 walmart units so I'd just use them.

When you first jar them, and the humidity goes over 70 which mine normally do, the buds need to be pulled out and put over a screen for a couple hours and try again. As you get a week-two weeks cure, open the jars periodically for a half hr or so and slowly bring their RH down to 60, stems will snap at that rh and thats where I like it! Burping the jars will help. Just don't let the buds dry out too quick or too much or they'll taste like grass when you smoke them. And don't let them mold by keeping the jars 3/4 full while monitoring the RH. Once it's stabalized at 60% 36hrs I find the smoke is just right and I pull the hygrometers out and go ahead and store them. Some like to store at 55% humidity which is the lowest rh that the curing process can handle.

Hope this helps :stoned:

1 day wow!.....Im in the foothills & right around 5 days either hanging or on screens, in a basement, with temps around 60-65, hum 20-50%......bag them burping them daily, leaving them open longer if they feel wet, keeping it closed longer if they feel dry....1 week of this, then sealed with vaccum sealer untill the end of time.....work perfect for me everytime.

im sure the fridge would leave some more virbrant color tho.

Screens for 5-6 days, in turkey bags for 10 days+. I try to move them to bags when the moisture level is "just right" rather than moving them in and out of containers. Putting moist buds in a sealed container for too long is bad news and handling them too much doesn't help either....

Here's the info I posted before under the
http://boards.cannabis.com/colorado-...ml#post2087655 thread. If you follow the thread there's pics and others chiming in.

---Copy/Paste from thread but no pics---

You've had a good grow, and it's time for harvest. You've flushed like you're supposed too (depending on your system anywhere from 4-12 days maybe longer). Chop those ladies down. Trim the way you prefer. I like to leave a little of the sweet leaf on as I don't want to handle the buds too much or too long. I hang/line dry until the stem is dry but still flexs/bends a bit. Usually just a couple of days.

Drop those lovely buds into a jar. My preference is 1/2 gallon Ball mason canning jars, easily found at Ace Hardware (can be ordered online with free shipping to your local Ace - they run out a lot but be patient and try again in a week or two). Fill each jar up evenly but don't over-stuff. If you hold the jar horizontal, there should be a gap roughly an inch or so - enough room to slide the hygrometer in.

What's a hygrometer? It's measure humidity. There are analog & digital ones. I prefer digital. The two I like are: the Chaney Indoor Thermometer w/Humidity and the Caliber 3 Hygrometer. Both fairly inexpensive (should be less than $20 each), both are pretty accurate.
Here's the Chaney one (sometimes it has a different brand name but it will look just like this)


So now you just slide the hygrometer in (make sure it's facing out so you can view it, dumbass LOL). Tighten that lid down and put it where you normally cure your stuff.

NOTE: Not every jar needs a hygrometer in it. I use just one per harvest per strain.

After about a couple of hours (takes a bit to get an accurate reading, give it at least 2-4 hrs). Take a look at the Relative Humidity reading.

If more than +70% - buds need to dry longer out of the jar. For me, about every 5% over 70, equals about 10-12 hours outside of jar - but that's different depending on time of year, outside weather, etc... Typically about 12-36 hours more drying time is needed.

65-70% - getting really close to that sweet spot for curing. Keep it in the jars but burp them for a couple of hours, roughly 2-4 hours. Burp 'em, then close the lid, wait 4-6 hours, check RH%, burp again if needed, repeat as needed until you reach the next level. The closer you get to the next level the longer it takes to get an accurate reading, maybe even 12-24 hours. Basically, after every burp I add about 4-6 hours to the wait time between burps until I check again. Getting it down to the next level might take a week or more, and that's ok. The slower the better. Luckily here in Colorado we have low humidity. If in a higher humidity area, say along the coasts, I would want to speed it up just a bit to get to the next level as mold may be a factor

60-65% - this is the Curing stage range. Once we hit this range, keep things sealed unless we want to prepare it for long-term storage, then we'll need to SLOWLY lower down to the next stage. But if you just want to cure it, leave here in this range for a week and longer to cure. Buds should be slightly sticky. Stems should snap. The RH may fluctuate a bit as moisture releases from the bud but it will dissipate/be reabsorbed. If this is for retail, I wait about 10-14 days into cure then bring samples to my dispensary buyers. Most dispensaries tend to like it closer to the 65% as it'll cure while it's on the shelf, plus it'll be stickier, look more appealing & that's what most people are looking for. Closer to 60% is better for smoking/vaping. If it's for myself or my patients, I let it cure for at least 2 weeks to a month. I do take a bit out to try about once a week. Some of my patients like it a little moister than others as it takes a little longer to smoke. Others don't really care too much one way or the other but no one likes it if too moist or too dry/brittle. Some of my patients use those Boveda 65% packets to help keep things where they like it. I tell them to still burp about once a week or so for about an hour when using those packets. I recommend dispensaries use those packets at night in their jars to keep things looking nice & sticky-icky for the next day.

For long term storage - once in this range (60-65), check weekly. If on the higher end, closer to 65, I still burp about every week just for an hour or so. As it slowly drops to 60%, I wait longer & longer between these short burps - we're talking days/weeks here folks not hours between these burps. Once it falls below 60, you have reached the next level. Takes me about 4-6 sometimes 8 weeks.

55-60% - Long term storage stage. I still leave the hygrometer in for about a couple of days/week, just to make sure it's leveled off. Once it has leveled off, then I take the hygrometer out & vacuum seal the jar. I don't usually storage too much for long term usually just 1 jar per harvest, unless it's just some incredible stuff and I want to be able to share it with long distance friends & family when they visit throughout the year.

If for some reason it reads under 55% - either you left it hanging to dry for too long with a fan blowing on it directly or too close to a heat source/vent or you might need to have a humidifier on a timer in the area you dry in (make sure it's not blowing the moisture directly on plants) OR maybe you just need to wait a little longer for your next reading. Wait 12-24 hours, and check again if still under 55 well you just learn a valuable lesson on how not to dry so quickly next time. It'll be shitty to smoke, guess you could grind it or tumble the heck out of it or maybe make tincture/butter/oil but smoke/vape is going to suck. But hey it takes experience, just learn from it....dumbass! LOL!



I think that's about it. This was by no means my very own method that I discovered. It took some trial & error between myself & others. About a month ago, a buddy of mine saw a thread on another forum and they were using the same method almost to a "T". So I'm guessing it's a pretty good method. Like I said, it's pretty stoner-friendly. Kinda hard to screw up as long as you didn't over-dry to bring with. Have patience young jedi.....

Enjoy that lovely properly cured dank!



(sidenote: I wrote this after working a 16hr shift at the hospital. If there are grammatical errors, forgive me. If I left something out, please feel free to ask questions. I'm tired and feeling that sweet indica kicking in... Peace out...)

I'm actually working on a new method using the Boveda packs. Once I have it dialed in, I'll make it available. It basically involves using a big airtight tote with layers of screens & using different Boveda packs at different times. Should make curing very simple! And pretty much the same no matter what part of the world you're in or time of year or weather outside or what your indoor climate is like. Just not sure if it'll be the same for all strains or not (hence a work in progress...).

Wish me luck!

I think bud structure factors in when considering how long to dry too. Hopefully you got nice fat, dense buds and it'll take a little longer to dry. But if they're not that dense it can be really quick.
I had some RA-damaged plants (poor yield, loose buds) and they were pretty much overdried hanging for 3 days and then straight to jars. However, the unaffected plants (fatter, denser) went 4 days hanging and into jars and they're PERFECT so far. Just put them in jars and they're still sticky... It's amazing how big a difference drying/curing makes on taste/burn!!

TBM, thanks for posting that! I was looking for it forever and couldn't find it then I found it on ICMag... very nice method if you've got any uncertainty. I picked up two of those little ones at Walmart (6.50 ea) and they're indispensable! I put them at the bottom so they don't crush my buds!

Makes a big difference in taste & burn! Improper cure either makes it burn too fast or doesn't stay lit. You can overdry then rehydrate and still have decent taste sometimes it's even helpful as it's a "cooler" smoke. If you ever are given something that's just too harsh to smoke, that's how I fix it. Dry the crap outta it then rehydrate it. At least it's smokable then.

Grew up around tobacco plants, granddad & dad were also big cigar & pipe smokers, that's how I learned the importance of proper curing.

[QUOTE]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TurboALLWD

If you're drying them out in a single day you're locking a lot of clorophyll in the buds, and if they get too dry the curing process will not continue, even if you add moisture it will not continue from what I've read.

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I have had my humidifier fail overnight and have come into the curing room the next day and found my buds pretty crispy. I didn't move them at all, got the humidifier working and cranked it up to around 70% for 24 hours, then gradually dropped it back down to 50% and finished the drying process. When I moved them into curing, they were nice and firm, didn't crumble to dust and they sweetened up/cured out just fine. Freaked me out pretty good though.
:wtf:

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One guy on here said he drys at 70% humidity, at that level I believe things could mold, especially with the moisture level in the buds. Theres a great writeup on icmag about curing, all of you're questions are explained in it, hell I think it was even posted here in the colorado section as well.

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70% seems a bit over the top for sustained curing, but they manage it down in the tropics. that's one thing I like about Colorado. It's easier to control humidity levels during curing with a humidifier than, say, down close to the gulf coast using a dehumidifier.

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Anyways, if its in the jar and above 70% humidity it's going to mold. Thats why you need to monitor the rh while its in the jars, start jaring when the stems are still somewhat plyable but do not snap, buds should be hard to the touch. I bought the recommended hygrometer but it's really close to the $7 walmart units so I'd just use them.

When you first jar them, and the humidity goes over 70 which mine normally do, the buds need to be pulled out and put over a screen for a couple hours and try again. As you get a week-two weeks cure, open the jars periodically for a half hr or so and slowly bring their RH down to 60, stems will snap at that rh and thats where I like it! Burping the jars will help. Just don't let the buds dry out too quick or too much or they'll taste like grass when you smoke them. And don't let them mold by keeping the jars 3/4 full while monitoring the RH. Once it's stabalized at 60% 36hrs I find the smoke is just right and I pull the hygrometers out and go ahead and store them. Some like to store at 55% humidity which is the lowest rh that the curing process can handle.

Hope this helps :stoned:

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:thumbsup:

Here's my source. icmag harvesting and processing forum, lots of good info in the thread "perfect cure everytime".

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding mosture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.

HTH,
Simon

thanks to everyone on this thread. I bought a half dozen caliber III hygrometers and I feel like I have control of the process now.