getting to final stages of bud! need help! leafs!

S=Answer if you grow traditional soil - Fox farm Ocean Forest
indoor
soil
FoxFarm Ocean Forest
Soil runoff pH - Last time i checked was 6.4 about a week ago
E- Tap water from sink
E-Source water pH - 6.5
E-Age of plant - week 5 bud almost too week 6
E-Type of fertilizer - Humboldt Nutrients organic line grow - 3-1-3 bloom 0-10-0 duece duece 0-0-22 along with supernatural bud blaster
E-Rate of application once a week for the Humboldt system with there feed chart online 10 week moderate
E- t5 4 bulb 2 foot with 4 3000k at 96w about 10k lumens bulbs along with 4 42w cfl's at 2750 lumens each bulb + 6 26w cfl's at 1750 lumens each bulb
E-Air temperature DAY TIME - 78-84 night about 66
E-Air % 45% constant
E-12/12
E-Type of ventilation your room has - just a nice fat blowing at the tops of the canopy to give it airflow
TR-Did you pre-soak your media in pH corrected solution? no

so my leaves continue to turn yellow as the flowering goes on but dark sports form and they continue to go green to yellow. Ive been looking up defencies.

all i can guess for now is too little nitrogen because my feeding schedule for humboldt oranics line says cut out the grow formula 4 weeks into flower and thats the only source of nitrogen?

If not nitrogen my second guess was potassium or maybe both together. i feed my plants duece duece which is 0-0-22 along with bloom which is 0-10-0. they tell me 2 ml per gallon of the duece duece but i think it may need some more

Any help is nice thanks guys

bad leaf from each plant... northern - whitewidow - sensi

along with all that i have a little bit of the claw leafs going any help on that is nice too

How long have they been in the same container? How large is the container? How old are the plants (including veg)? Have they ever been transplanted? Could be a rootbound issue where the plant isn't taking up any nutes. Yellowing from nitrogen def usually is just that, yellowing. The necrotic random splotches is what is suggesting to me that something is going on in your container, and if your PH is at 6.4, it may be rootbound. How long has it taken to progress to the level we see?

Just a thought for now, all the other specs you listed look good.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by irydyum

How long have they been in the same container? How large is the container? How old are the plants (including veg)? Have they ever been transplanted? Could be a rootbound issue where the plant isn't taking up any nutes. Yellowing from nitrogen def usually is just that, yellowing. The necrotic random splotches is what is suggesting to me that something is going on in your container, and if your PH is at 6.4, it may be rootbound. How long has it taken to progress to the level we see?

Just a thought for now, all the other specs you listed look good.

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:thumbsup:from my own observations i agree with"yellowing from N def usually is just that,yellowing"but,i just looked in my "bible"to find a leaf like GARE0440'S with the caption"foliar spots started on this leaf after it became severely nitrogen deficient",if he transplants now,will he see any change before he harvests?he's nearly 6wks at 12/12:jointsmile:

The sensi and the white widow were planted into 3 gal pots on jan 31st as not too big of plants. these plants all started about jan 18th and where put into but feb 18th a month of veg. they've been transplanted twice. im going to water soon ill check the ph run off when i do

leaves turn yellow in the fall...as your plant buds sucking the nutrients away form the leaves they are merely ending there life cycle in the later stages of flower...too much nitrogen in the end of flower can make your buds taste harsh so i would not worry too much at this stage about N deficiency. jmo!:hippy:

well i just did run off tests in my soil and heres how it went
sensistar 6.4
northern 6.2
whitewidow 6.2

I feel like thats all a little low if im not wrong. the sensi star deffinitly has the darker green leaves compared to the other too. does this mean i need to add more of my nutrients or buy a ph buffer?

What is the water going in at that it comes out at 6.4?

I didn't mean to suggest a transplant this late in the game either. Like str8 said, it's a normal cycle of the plant for it to yellow and leaves to die, 6 weeks is a little late to start messing with treatments.

However, I have had problems in the past that reminded me of your pictures, and it wasn't normal. In the beginning before I figured out a good system of containers to work a plant up through, mine would look just like yours at 5 or 6 weeks. My yield and quality suffered because of my lack of planning. Brown splotches, burned edges, curled leaves, you name it. I would look in the books and it looked like a combo of everything. No nutrient fixed it. I just needed to figure out how to schedule transplants properly, and how to recognize the symptoms before the plant became affected by it.

Many people have many different methods, and I'm sure they would be happy to tell you. I usually start seedlings/clones in 4" round peat cups with inert soil, about a week then its into 8" square pots with fortified soil while vegging. Usually about 3 or 4 weeks in, I'll notice some of the bottoms yellowing, and a slight sag that wasn't there the past few days. Time to transplant into final container for flower, either 2,3 or 5 gal, depending on your preference.

I guess all I'm trying to say is timing and recognizing the small things your plants tell you will save you on your next run. Consider this first one your price of knowledge. You will be much better equipped next time around.:thumbsup:

iryd hit the naill on the head...it's all learning...keep your eyes open and you will learn something with every grow
:thumbsup:

thanks for the help guys i still think i will be able to get some good bud of my plants there all doing well.
about my ph though, shouldnt soil be about 6.5-6.8? how should i raise the ph in my soil? just increase the nutrients i give them?

No you don't have to give them more nutes you just have to add some more ph up to your water and feeding going in and it should raise it a a bit. 6.3 is acceptable however optimum is 6.8. I've been battling ph issues for a little while now and have seen it as low as 5.5.

what is the best way to rasie the ph and quickest?

i use Rhino Skin for a ph up at 1ml/gal...my water is 6.9-7.0 and clean...so it will depend on your source water as to dosage!

i like using this because it also has a 0-0-13 rating:jointsmile:

so i was testing my ph again in the soil and there all very low 6.1 5.9 6.0 i need to raise it so i went and bought dolomite lime seeing as its a good ph neutralizer and my nutrients are getting locked out.
I got Whitney Farms Prilled dolomite lime
I think your supposed to mix with soil but i cant at this point so i want to add with water if possible
If i have 3 gallon pots how much dolomite should i add per gal of water and how much should i give them?
any help appreciated:thumbsup:

I have leaf damage that looks exactly the same and it was caused by root aphids! They will squash your yield!
Have you noticed any bugs at all....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gare0440

so i was testing my ph again in the soil and there all very low 6.1 5.9 6.0 i need to raise it so i went and bought dolomite lime seeing as its a good ph neutralizer and my nutrients are getting locked out.
I got Whitney Farms Prilled dolomite lime
I think your supposed to mix with soil but i cant at this point so i want to add with water if possible
If i have 3 gallon pots how much dolomite should i add per gal of water and how much should i give them?
any help appreciated:thumbsup:

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I would mix the lime into the water....desolve completely. You want to raise the Ph ....slowly.
One teaspoon or less per gallon...and water as normal...(the new growth will tell if it worked)

One way to avoid this problem is doing your final transplant 1 or 2 weeks into 12/12 next time. This seems like a classic case of the lime buffers running out in the soil, which usually takes 6-8 weeks.

Also growing from seed, 3 gal is a little small IMO. Even if the plants were vegged only a short time, I'd use at least a 4 gal, maybe a 5 for the final transplant.

There's only 3 things I can think of that may be the cause.
Overwatering will leach-out nutrients and promote root rot. (does your rootball stink like rotting food?)
Losing buffer strength in the soil is a strong possibility, too. Tiz why I do my final transplant about two weeks into 12/12. Adds fresh ph buffers (in the fresh soil) to help with keeping ph in line, and avoids rootbound issues later.
Calcium might be the ticket though. 1/2 to 1 tsp unsulfered molasses per gallon of properly ph'd water, once a week. Provides calcium, magnesium, iron, and a few other handy micronutes. Plus, it is a carbo-load base ingredient. (carbo-load products, CalMag Plus, and many, many other "MegaBud" products are a watered-down molasses or synthetic molasses)