my grow notes.

here are some of my grow notes i took fron reading books and trial and err. fell free to add somthings i missed or dont know. i would like to get some good growing tips to add, or maybe this will help somone.


GROWING TIPS & TRICKS

Air temperature

· Day = 72-76*F
· Night = 62-67*F. Temperature should not drop more then 10*F during the night time.


SOIL TEMPUTERS

· 65-70*F.


HUMIDITY

· Vegetation = 60-70% Best at 60-65%
· Flowering = 40-60% Best at 50%
· Clones = 80-95% Best at 95%


P.H.

· Soil = 60-7.0
· Hydroponics = 5.8-6.8
· Cuttings = 6.0


REFECTIVE MATERALâ??S

· Styrofoam = 100%
· Mylar = 90%
· White paint = 85%


LIGHT TIMES

· Clones & vegetation = 24/0
· Flowering = 12/12. If plant doesnâ??t start to flower after several week try 14 hrs. Of darkness.


CO2

· Seltzer water (carbonated water with no salt) Spray leaves during the first 3 to 4 weeks of flowering @ the beginning of the light cycle.


FLOWERING

· Keep feeding vegetation nutes until you start to see flowers, then switch to flower nutes. Flush soil so their isnâ??t any nitrogen left in the soil, if there is a lot of Nitrogen left the plant wont flower as good because it thinks it still in vegetation stage.
· Or stop feed vegetation nutes one switch to the 12/12 light cycle but donâ??t flush soil so their will still be left over Nitrogen in the soil, then use the flowering nutes. After about 1 to 2 week once switched to 12/12 cycle. Flush the soil.
· A weekly teaspoon of unsulphured molasses (blackstrap) per gallon of water added their nutrients)


MOLD

· Treat mold with alkaline water with a P.H. of 8.0 then shake excess water off of plant.


HARVEST

· Harvest when the trichomes are clear or milky and are starting to turn amber color.
· Harvest right after the dark cycle for highest THC
· Letting the plant sit in total darkness for 24hrs. Increases THC slightly.


DRYING BUDS
â?¢ In a cool room buds dry slowly because the air can hold a small amount of moisture. This gives the cells time to convert starches back to sugars, & creates a smoother smoke. The coolness preserves odor molecules, which evaporate at higher temperatures. When drying in a room with high humidity & temperatures the odor molecules evaporate in the high temperature but the moisture has no place to go because the air is already saturated. with lower humidity, the plants would dry quickly and little odor would be lost.
â?¢ Allow 5-14 days of dry time.
â?¢ Temperature = 65-75*F. Best @ 70*F
â?¢ Humidity = 45-55%

:),,,Cannabis FAQs / FAQ , Recipes, Medical Marijuana

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Originally Posted by Dutch Pimp

:),,,Cannabis FAQs / FAQ , Recipes, Medical Marijuana

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thanks!

I think what Dutch was trying to tell you nicely is you should READ more then post. Like the crap you have here. This is some of the worst I've seen in a long time, you are just sprewing shit that is wrong....and is why you rub me the wrong way.

Example: CO2; nothing good will come from spraying your plants with seltzer water! It will add no CO2 to the ambient air or to the plant directly. The plant cannot process CO2 that is dissolved in water. Seltzer spraying is a MYTH not a fact, regardless how large a type you use to print it.

Example: PH; ph for hydro is dependent on media used; rw and coco should be between 5.3 to 5.5 (rw tends to do better at lower side) in soil abt 6.3 and pro-mix at abt 6.

There are more but I don't have the time to correct it all. Have a nice day.

thanks for the imput of the ph. like i said in the begianing of my thread; "here are some of my grow notes i took fron reading books and trial and err. fell free to add somthings i missed or dont know. i would like to get some good growing tips to add, or maybe this will help somone" .looking for feed back on my notes or info in anything is wrong. all these notes were takien for the best of ask ED Rosenthal, the grow bible Jorge Cervantes. i just posted what i read

i just went threw my book, a did read from Edd Rosenthal says hydro ph should be kept between 6.1-6.3 and soil should be kept around 5.9-6.4. keep rockwool ph at the lower end of the recommended measure to counteract RW stong alkalinity.

now jorge cervantes says in his book that hydro should be 5.8-6.0 and soil 6.5-7.
i alwas wonderd witch author was better, they both say total differnt things in each book. i tend to like edd more IMHO.
this is why i posted my notes to get things cleard up for me and to get some advice on things.

Is it really best to harvest at the end of the dark period?? I have always herd that you should harvest during the late afternoon (Outside) when all the resin is out on the buds.

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Originally Posted by 1Wonder

Is it really best to harvest at the end of the dark period?? I have always herd that you should harvest during the late afternoon (Outside) when all the resin is out on the buds.

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every book i have read says always befor the lights come on, or come up. what i always do is leave my plants in the dark for 24hrs then pull them one branch at a time do the triming and then grab another ones and so on.

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Originally Posted by potofgold

i just went threw my book, a did read from Edd Rosenthal says hydro ph should be kept between 6.1-6.3 and soil should be kept around 5.9-6.4. keep rockwool ph at the lower end of the recommended measure to counteract RW stong alkalinity.

now jorge cervantes says in his book that hydro should be 5.8-6.0 and soil 6.5-7.
i alwas wonderd witch author was better, they both say total differnt things in each book. i tend to like edd more IMHO.
this is why i posted my notes to get things cleard up for me and to get some advice on things.

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Actually the best source for PH info would be to check what the mfg of your nutrients reccomends. In my case I use Dutch Master's, gold in my RW and Advance in the container grow. What I like about them is the recommendation for Pro-mix and sunshine-mix. A lot of mfg don't address the issue of pro-mix, which falls between pure hydo and soil.

Counter to what alot of people believe, a change in the ph from what you put in to what you get out is a good thing. We need a certian amount of "ph shift" to allow all the nutrients to be available to the plant, since the max uptake of each, N P K, is different at different PH's. (Hope I'm not being too confusing here).

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Originally Posted by oldmac

Actually the best source for PH info would be to check what the mfg of your nutrients reccomends. In my case I use Dutch Master's, gold in my RW and Advance in the container grow. What I like about them is the recommendation for Pro-mix and sunshine-mix. A lot of mfg don't address the issue of pro-mix, which falls between pure hydo and soil.

Counter to what alot of people believe, a change in the ph from what you put in to what you get out is a good thing. We need a certian amount of "ph shift" to allow all the nutrients to be available to the plant, since the max uptake of each, N P K, is different at different PH's. (Hope I'm not being too confusing here).

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wow, your in a good mood today:jointsmile: lol. thanks man that was a good post i never thought of it that way and thats a good point. see my nutes i use auto buffer my PH so i have never had to worry about the ph thing, i always thought the auto ph buffer thing was bs but i have never had any problems with ph so i guess it works. ive cheched my run off and its always been fine. now i have heard during to last stages of riping plants want a differnt ph range do u know if thats true? i just tried that sunshine#4 mix this grow and i like it alot. thanks for the good feed back. how about we call it truths and put all of this bs behind us:thumbsup:

Just caught me when I was tired, mostly...;)

I was ready to continue with you here on your thread, but you took my first criticism OK, so I will assume you want to learn. It's all good for now.:D