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ZANDOR..............been reading ur posts and u seem like a clued up guy............ive got 6 plants nearly ready for harvesting but id b lucky to get a pound off all of them put together...............id luv to know how 2 change that......if u can help the plants r totally healthy so i dont know wut else i could do........cheers for any help anyone can give me :)
Lighting, environment and strain are all factors. AN claims you will get 2+ pounds per 1000 watt light if you use their nutrient products properly.
Good Kannabis Growing!
Environment-Light-more light and Co2 is the big key to stress free growing. Most people grow with top lighting only and by using light calculations you can see they are only lighting 1/3 of the plant most of the time. So with that thought you are also leaving 2/3 of the available flowing plant to fend for it??s self.
The Idea stress free environment is where you really grow trees (for lack of a better term) you light all sides of the plant evenly, maintain the correct environment and add Co2, plenty of nutrients and lots of room for the root ball to grow. That??s all there is to it. Sounds easy and it really is it just takes money. You need a good environment controller that can do everything I use 2 of the C.A.P. XGC-1 Xtreme Greenhouse Controller they do everything for me. My Co2 PPM is maintained at 1500 and the exchange of air occurs once a day. I use a large window AC 18,000 Btu to control the heat from 6000w HPS in my flower room. I built my own lights it??s not that hard. Some even use more then I do but I do just fine with 6000w and 3 light movers. I grow in 2 rows of plants and 3 rows of lights. The lights use cool tubes with no reflectors. I buy cool tubes off eBay they are Bake A Round baking dishes from corning glass. They are only 4? round so they will only work for HPS but that??s where I need them anyway. I just bought 5 more and I don??t pay over 11.00 bucks each. I use 4? duct collar and ½? flat aluminum to make the air in and air out holders. ¾ wide foam door tape around the end of the glass works good to seal the air in. I also use aluminum foil tape to seal everything up tight. I can use dryer vent tubing the silver type to connect each light together. Here is where I wish I had a camera that worked?..the top light is 1000w HPS and 36? directly under the top light is the second light another 1000 watt HPS (you could use 600w just as well and save some heat) you just use a 90 pointed down and all thread to attach and hold the 2 glass tubes in place. You separate them 36? and use 90??s to complete the flow of air. I start my air at the top kick it down to the lower light and then back up and out the room. Each light has it??s own separate air in and air out. Built from one 12? air chamber and reduced to 4? to feed each pair of cool tubes. I have a 10? vortex that supplies all the air in for the cool tubes and my 3 Mh in the veg room too. It works just like the house air does. By having the lights on movers going back and forth all plants get lots of light from all sides. They get some side lighting each time a light comes by too and I find this works very well. I grow in 5 gallon buckets filled with 100% grow rocks and run ½? drips 24/7 and use 1? PVC for my return. Because I have 2 AC unites venting in my only space where I also have my tanks I also use a chiller for each holding tank to keep the nutrients cool and a filter on the return line so nothing gets clogged. Keep the humidity around 80% for vegetation and then about 60% during budding. If you keep it high during budding to put weight on your buds you also need a sulfur burner to keep the mold away but the controller I have can control that too. (For the price the son of a bitch should make coffee in the morning too)
So its top lights & bottom lights, Co2, Humidity, & total environment control. The 5 gallon buckets filled with grow rocks is one of the big things. This gives the roots plenty of room to make a mass root ball and thick trunks.
There is a list of nutrients to use too. Like Cal-mag pulse if you use RO water like I do puts back in nutrients the RO process removes and I don??t grow with out it. Fulvic Acid Dr. Hornby's Piranha just to name a few. Use a flusher once a month and between cycle changes. I like Final Phase for a flusher and I am switching to Advanced Nutrients for my next grow. I like their research department using real marijuana plants for testing. A Brix meter or (refractometer 0-80%) is handy to have so you know the nutrients you are giving them are working correctly. You measure the fertilizer uptake and plant health with one (I got mine from eBay for 95 bucks)
All it takes is money?..but the reward is worth every penny spent IMO.
Zandor can I send you a personal e-mail...?
My e-mail address is [email protected]
thanks
: )
pound(s)+ on an indoor grow from a single plant??? i do 8 week veg under 2kw of sunmasters and average 1.2/oz a plant...some have been as much as 4 oz's but still far short of a pound. how long do you veg for these results? how much lighting (lumens and/or wpsf) please...maybe i'm missing something?
currently have 14 in flower under the 2 1k sunmasters in 5 gal buckets (transplanted from 1 gal's 2 weeks before 12/12 began) . all are looking normal compared to previous grows which means i should end up with 1-2 lbs by the end of next month. have 3 strains...C99, Blockhead (sol) and Master Kush from positronics. i still can't see any way to increase yield beyond what i'm already doing...
Well del... If you are only using top light (like most others do) then yes you are missing 2/3 of the plant. The lower parts will produce the same thick buds the top of the plant does if you give it some light. Some (not me) use a minimum of 3 lights for every plant some even 4 so every side of the plant gets even lighting. I use movers and custom built lighting to do the same thing. Hydro is the only way you can really give the plants enough nutrients to grow trees. Environmental control is a major point, not just temperature swings but humidity (RH) and Co2 are required along with maintaining the correct water temperature in the reservoir. You need consistency to grow trees not close enough. This is nothing new but most people get by with what they have and come close and that??s fine but?.Close is not good enough for growing trees. You need to strive for perfection every time all the time. Did I mention Co2? They start in 5 gallon buckets filled with either grow rocks or lava rock. You do need to pre soak the rocks with Ph balanced RO water...the same water you use to feed your plants. You soak them for about 3-5 day's until the Ph is stable. Lava rock is popular because it's cheep but I like to either mix or just use 100% grow rocks. I did build a small cement mixer to wash the rocks after each grow so I can reuse them. Some people just trash them and start with new each time, not me but I know several that do. It??s just the cost of doing business like nutrients and Co2. We grow fewer plants then most only because they need the room to grow out and by doing so we all get higher yields. Everyone uses AC to keep the temperatures down. Most use 3-5 ton HVAC house type of unites. There is one distinct advantage to using AC. By keeping the temperature between 74-78 F odor is not as big of a problem. It??s when the temperature goes over 81 that I found odor gets worse but under 80 it??s not as bad and in the mid 70??s there is really no odor to deal with that the carbon scrubber can??t handle.
Did that help you at all?
I still want some of those Kush clones too dude.
hydro is out of the question...i leave the grow for many days at a time often and soil is the only way that'll work. temps are not a prob as they're outside in a shed and it's still winter up here at the 4k' level and the room never gets above 80f...when the a/c kicks in or below 65f when the heater turns on. co2? never needed it due to low temps and open vents fulltime.
i didn't see your veg length...i veg for 8 weeks or until alternating branching is well underway and preflowers have shown. my total grow from seed to harvest indoors is appx 16 weeks...8-10 weeks for clones.
and yes, m.k. clones are right next door to ya...
thanx zandor for ur input much appriciated
Hi del....
I just thought you might want to know,
You can leave a hydro system alone for very long periods 7-14 days(more if need be)
You will have a back up resivor that drains into your "regular" resivoir.
This back up is PH and PPM perrrrrrrrfect... it is a simple thing to do... it runs off of gravity ... a gravity switch... most hydro stores will sel you the parts...
Any hydro system can be adapted to use an extra resivoir..
: )
smb
woha too much to read
wow those 2 controllers must've been some serious dough.
are you using a tank for the CO2 or a burner?
and how do you use a light mover with an air cooled tube? do you just leave enough slack in the ducting?
del,
it's kinda expensive to get everything just right to get those 2lb/light yields. Some strains probably won't hit that even if given the right environment. I've actually been looking at the advanced nutrient site and forum, there's some great info over there.
I'd probably air cool the lights with a good centrifugal fan. If you make it with the bake around thingy it won't be too expensive though. Hortilux bulbs are expensive but that'd probably help a little. With the lights air cooled and with an ac and heater you can pretty much seal the room, next I would get either a light mover if I had more space or the CO2 and controller. Seeing as how you're gonna be away I'd go with tank, a propane burner would make me too nervous. If you can do SOG or SCROG you can probably maximize what space you have now and it wouldn't run you too much. Or go nuts with a coliseum.
Yeah it takes some money, not that I have any lol. but a guy can dream.
peace
its nice to see the dudes with threads above me have the knowelege yeaman.
http://gallery.cannabis.com/albums/u...l_KBS_tree.jpg This a typical KBS grow
bumpppppppppppppppppppp///wanted to read this, but I am in the middle of somethinfg else. So, enjoy...good info
Zandor: While this is bumped... How do -you- use Final Phase in-between cycles? How many days? What are the lights doing during this time? Cheers!
A flush in-between veg and flower cycle is always advisable but not required. You can flush anytime you want. In hydro it only take a few day's to do a good flush if you use something like flora Kleen or final phase. Your run your normal light cycle even if you are flushing.