1st Time CFL Grow HighGrade

Long time browser here. Finally am able to start my first grow. Im working with a tent, three part soil, bagseed (for now) and 4 80 watt CFLs. I am expecting a pack of seeds from High Grade Seeds shortly. I bought their Super Mix. Anybody buy their products before?

I also bought a basic aeroponic system that I didnt realize wouldnt be ideal until after. But I will attempt to use it for cloning, as I have seen good results.

Im currently on Day 3. I used the typical paper towel, ziploc method. 2 of my bagseeds sprouted from the soil on Cinco de Mayo and the third one sprouted today. I used 1 part peat moss, 1 part vermiculite, and one part MG Potting Soil. I bought grow and bloom formulas as well as cal mag. I have been watering them with ph adjusted water to 6.

I should be getting my High Grade seeds by monday. My question is, would having seeds planted a week a part become a problem or could I delay the flowering of the current plants? And are the photos showing up the way they should?

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...g?t=1241731382

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...g?t=1241730984

MRDiff, those are some sweet lookin' lil' seedlings. It's amazing what you can do with bagseed since you actually pay attention to it rather than try to grow it and get it out the door as fast as you can. I grew out some bagseed last year, and it turned out very sweet indeed!

I'm lookin' forward to your grow!

Sounds like a good plan, MrD. Looking forward to this first grow you're logging. Thanks for flying CannCom. <G>

oh, the question... I've had seedlings take two weeks to pop and lag behind thier mates. If they are good they will catch up at the flip.

Shov

Can somebody explain how to post pictures in form of attachment? I was told 20 posts are required. Id like to update my log.

I third the motion on ur log. Now if u click on the advanced options for the reply then click manage attachments. Then upload.

Hmm, I guess I got wrong information because it says "you may not post attachments." No worries though. The plants are only in veg. Anybody wanna tell me when I should be able to post these pics as attachments?

Edit: Nevermind. I guess 23 is that number. Because after I posted this, I was able to upload attachments.

The second picture shows some fading of leave color on one plant. Anybody know what may be the cause? Havent nuted this plant much at all yet.

Some nute deficiencies it looks like to me. I'm currently using Jack's Classic african violet food 12-36-14 plus micronutrients . Maybe it's not the best formula, but I figure the high P will be helpful in flowering. I use 1/4 tsp per gallon. Right now my plants are severely deficient on the lower leaves, but I didn't add any fertilizer until just two days ago, and it got chilly (65) in the room a couple of days, which can lock up K.

If you check my thread you will see that Miracle Gro soil gives me lots of mushrooms. Yesterday there was yet another flush of mushrooms in one of my pots. They don't sterilize their soil evidently. Also the fertilizer won't last 3 months in my experience, but I like to wait until I see a deficiency before I add nutrients. I don't know why, but I feel like it's good for them to give them some stress, and I don't like using chemicals. Unfortunately I don't have that many local shopping options so I end up going for chem ferts at the nursery.

I hope I'm not threadjacking, I'm just trying to share some of my experiences. And I'm not any kind of l33t grower, so anything I say deserves a pinch of salt. Maybe even a teaspoon. :)

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Originally Posted by JD1stTimer

Some nute deficiencies it looks like to me. I'm currently using Jack's Classic african violet food 12-36-14 plus micronutrients . Maybe it's not the best formula, but I figure the high P will be helpful in flowering. I use 1/4 tsp per gallon. Right now my plants are severely deficient on the lower leaves, but I didn't add any fertilizer until just two days ago, and it got chilly (65) in the room a couple of days, which can lock up K.

If you check my thread you will see that Miracle Gro soil gives me lots of mushrooms. Yesterday there was yet another flush of mushrooms in one of my pots. They don't sterilize their soil evidently. Also the fertilizer won't last 3 months in my experience, but I like to wait until I see a deficiency before I add nutrients. I don't know why, but I feel like it's good for them to give them some stress, and I don't like using chemicals. Unfortunately I don't have that many local shopping options so I end up going for chem ferts at the nursery.

I hope I'm not threadjacking, I'm just trying to share some of my experiences. And I'm not any kind of l33t grower, so anything I say deserves a pinch of salt. Maybe even a teaspoon. :)

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Thanks for the response. Definitely not threadjackin. I have been feeding my plants with 3/4 teaspoon to gallon water. And a couple of them got nute burn and Ive had to prun the leaves back a little. Its possible that I didnt feed this one as much. Im using Dyna gro liquid fert. I also have calmag but havent used it because Im not sure if its necessary during veg. As for the miracle grow. I am having green algae form. When I transplant the plants from the 2 liters to the 3 gallon grow bags, I will be sure to just use vermiculite and perlite similar to hempy bucket.

Anyone know if I will have to change nute schedule, water amount, and things like that? I also have some peat moss left.

i can't say i'm familiar with dynagro, is it for soil? the reason i ask is because if you go with only perlite/verm. then you will be doing a hydro grow. you will need hydro nutes.

the pH will be completely different as well. soil runs between 6.3-6.8 with ~6.3 being ideal. hydro is between 5.3-5.8 (i think, i don't grow hydroponically yet). each strain has their own preference.

i use miracle grow soil currently and haven't had any problems that can be accounted to it. you just need to be careful when feeding as the soil has nutes in it already.

you shouldn't be using nutes on your plants until they have between 4-5 nodes. ESPECIALLY if you are using mg soil.

good growing.


-shake

Yes dyna gro is a liquid form nute. My idea was to use a cloner at first, but switched to soil. Theyre plenty old for nutes, almost a month now. I just think I underestimated the nutes in the mg to start off. But I have since flushed the soil and they are still lookin healthy, minus a few leaf tips. And I have about another week before I need to upgrade to the 3 gal bags. Ill probably buy a bag or perlite since Im completely out. I still have some mg and vermiculite, as well as peat.

Today, one month in, I transplanted them into 3 gallon bags. One of them was started to get root bound at the bottom. I gave them each about a gallon water. I went with a new soil mix. Used Timberline Soil/Compost, mixed with Perlite, Vermiculite, and little Spagnum Moss. One of my high grade seeds germinated. Not impressed with the size or growth yet as I plan to put them into flower in two weeks or less. Will update pics within a week.

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One of my high grade seeds germinated. Not impressed with the size or growth yet as I plan to put them into flower in two weeks or less. Will update pics within a week.

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Umm, you are saying that the seed just germinated and you plan on flowering it in two weeks? If so, then that isn't going to work. Your plant has to mature before it sexes. That usually takes about a month. If you could flower a seed 2 weeks from seed then I would like to know what strain this is. Only cannabis plant that may do that is an Autoflower strain and I still don't think they sex in only 2 weeks....

Okay then. Ive been misinformed. My research said you can flower a plant at any point, its just going to affect your yield. I thought that was the concept of micro growing anyway. But, no problem if that is the case, I will bring one of my 80 watt cfl 6500k out and keep it in veg until it hits the 6 week mark. Thanks for your reply.

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Originally Posted by MRDiff

Okay then. Ive been misinformed. My research said you can flower a plant at any point, its just going to affect your yield. I thought that was the concept of micro growing anyway. But, no problem if that is the case, I will bring one of my 80 watt cfl 6500k out and keep it in veg until it hits the 6 week mark. Thanks for your reply.

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I thought the concept of micro growing was to grow a few plants in small containers in a little space so you can maximize you lighting and also use lets wattage (like a PC box grow)....You can grow a plant from 12/12, but from what I know it won't start sexing until it's sexually mature. If I'm wrong then I'm sorry if I misinformed you, but I'm sure that I'm not....

Okay, then what would be the problem with going 12/12 when the plant is 3 weeks? Especially when this seed is supposed to be a step up from the bag seed I have going. I dont get your point. Im not concerned when the plant shows sign of sex. Maybe you thought I implied I expected to see signs of flowering immediately. I simply meant switchin to 12/12

OK, listen...doesn't matter if you start 12/12 one week, two weeks, or three it still won't show until it gets mature. Do you really think once you switch to 12/12 it will show sex one to two weeks later?

My point in this whole thing I'm telling you is you can't technically flower at anytime you want as your plant has to get to a certain age before it can be put in 12/12 to show sex. With that being said, once again it doesn't matter if you put your 12/12 one week after germination, it won't show until the plant reaches a certain age.

P.S. Just merely telling you for your knowledge, not trying to sit and bicker with you :D

No I understand that. Like I said, I only used the word 'flower' as to mean to switch over to 12/12. I realize a immature plant isnt capable of budding. But my options are keep the mature plants in veg longer, or put the smaller plant into 12/12 early. Im assuming you suggest the first. But I was thinkin the latter just because I wouldnt mind sacrificing a little yeild on the sixth plant.

Thanks for commentin on my log though. And I appreciate ya sharing your knowledge.

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Originally Posted by MRDiff

No I understand that. Like I said, I only used the word 'flower' as to mean to switch over to 12/12. I realize a immature plant isnt capable of budding. But my options are keep the mature plants in veg longer, or put the smaller plant into 12/12 early. Im assuming you suggest the first. But I was thinkin the latter just because I wouldnt mind sacrificing a little yeild on the sixth plant.

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Well, if you don't mind the little yield then go with it. Now that I'm thinking about it, I wonder how much of a difference in yield if you veg for 4 weeks then go to 12/12 and then just do another from 12/12 from the beginning. May have to do an experiment sometime in the near future.:D

Either way, keep us posted on how everything goes :thumbsup:
Good Luck and Happy Growing!

i've heard and read that the plant needs to be mature before flowering or the genetics will be "undercooked". i assume that's just from seed.

do an experiment italiano!



-shake

are those 100 watt cfls? I was at the local Lwes today and found some 75 watt cfls that put out 3900 lumens each at 2700k. They're only about 16 bucks each. you should check them out for flowering

Hmm, I was in my Lowes multiple times for lights. Nothing about 23 watts. I got mine online. I picked up 4 43watt 2700k at $5 a piece for flowering.

Speakin of lighting. Im about to make the transition in a week or 10 days to 12/12. I have 4-80w 5600k CFL, 4-43w 2700 CFL, and 1-26w UVB Bulb. My question is how should I arrange the bulbs to get maximum flowering. I have 3 giant clamp lamps with plenty of y sockets. Has anybody had good results by having light come from bottom to top or would that interfere with the growth. Let me know what you guys think, like I said I still have over a week.

You can arrange lighting anyway you want, but the only problem would be training the plant to grow the way you want. Shit, you may not even have a problem with having to do that. Also, remember that when in flower if you have more blue spectrum then the red you will come out with airy/fluffy buds. Maybe try using all the red spectrum ones directed on the tops and then go from there.

I see. And how much does that affect the weight with the blue spectrum blubs? Would it be more beneficial to cut out some of the 5600k bulbs and sacrifice some lumens or just leave it as is? I also have that UVB bulb, I saw a youtube video on UVB growing. Im not sure that 26w will show a difference, but I thought that might be good supplement for the less than ideal amount of red.

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Originally Posted by MRDiff

I see. And how much does that affect the weight with the blue spectrum blubs? Would it be more beneficial to cut out some of the 5600k bulbs and sacrifice some lumens or just leave it as is? I also have that UVB bulb, I saw a youtube video on UVB growing. Im not sure that 26w will show a difference, but I thought that might be good supplement for the less than ideal amount of red.

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I THINK, not sure that UVB lights are hazardous to use. Personally, if I had all those lights I'd go ahead and use them. Either way if you take them out, then like you said you lose some lumens which you don't want to do. I'd rather have all the lights in their and take the chance, then take them out which then drops your lighting lumens lower than it was in vegetative state. Remember always more lights is better, just soo long as you can control heating issues! :jointsmile: But if possible just go to Lowes or Home DePOT and get some a 4pk of 2700K (23 or 26W) CFl for like $8-$10...I think it's worth the investment!

Heat shouldnt be a problem now that Im using a desk fan as active intake. Im gonna use all the lights I have. Youre right, dont wanna remove lumens that I have. And the UVB bulb is supposed to be safe for the plants, but precaution has to be taken for our eyes. Basically, I just have to turn off that bulb before I put my head in the tent. And if this still doesnt do it, Ill make the trip to Lowes.

New pics

Any signs of sexing on that larger crazy leafed plant? I anticipate a male since its growing so fast.

The two smaller plants are the High grade seeds. One of the plants looks pretty impressive for just 9 days old.

looking good my friend! :thumbsup:

I can't see any flowers on it but judging solely on the branching I would guess it's a female. Although on my current grow all my females were tall and skinny and my males were short and branchy. :) Go figure.

A little bit of problems since I last posted. Afraid I have 2 males or herms. Afraid it might be the latter with me at fault. Still having small problems with burnt tips. Dont think the bulbs are too close at about 2-4 inches above and I flushed the soil.
Check the pics and let me know what you guys think.

No idea to whether these or males or herms? If theyre herms I figured I might as well grow them out, but obviously not if theyre are just males.

looks like herms to me. no use growing them out if there's anything viable left in the grow box. they will just pollinate them too. remove the herms and spray the walls and other plants down with water. it will sterilize the pollen.

any guesses as to why they herm'd? could be genetics of course if you got them out of bud. but any light leaks? any other stressful factors (nute burn would be last on my list)

GL, herms are a dissapointment because they show you bush before balls :S1:

Damn, not positive but one night either me or my gf left the closet light on. The plants are in a tent in the closet. Light may have gotten in though because I have light cords coming out the front. So herms dont really produce good buds? Guess Ill have to do some research as my other plants havent really shown sex and what if all my females are herms? Would I want to grow these or not?

Yeah, these were bag seed. Does that mean they came from hermied plants to begin with, if there were seeds in the bag?

well, for what its worth, my purple urkle came from some bud I got from medical dispensary. about 15 seeds in the eighth and they all came out females except one. it just means that they will be much more prone to go hermie if they are induced to stress. they are many things that can stress the plant, and the light leak you explained would do it. it doesn't take much for some strains while it might take a shit load of stress for another strain. that being said, with your seeds coming from bud, it probably won't take much

I thought you were running some high grade seeds too? well anyways if these are all the same seed, you have 2 choices. scrap em and get some good genetics or ensure that they will see no more stress (the non herm ones) and hope they turn out female

GL:thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by greenatik

well, for what its worth, my purple urkle came from some bud I got from medical dispensary. about 15 seeds in the eighth and they all came out females except one. it just means that they will be much more prone to go hermie if they are induced to stress. they are many things that can stress the plant, and the light leak you explained would do it. it doesn't take much for some strains while it might take a shit load of stress for another strain. that being said, with your seeds coming from bud, it probably won't take much

I thought you were running some high grade seeds too? well anyways if these are all the same seed, you have 2 choices. scrap em and get some good genetics or ensure that they will see no more stress (the non herm ones) and hope they turn out female

GL:thumbsup:

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Yeah my highgrade seed grew very very fast. And turned out to be male. I still have about 8 more. Maybe I should start germinating now. Honestly in retrospect I should have invested in a dresser that I could have split into a veg cab and a flower cab. Because Im not ready to give up hope that one of these may be female but I also want to prepare for the worst. Thanks GL.

your plants look good to me, keep up the good work.

If you buy Feminized seeds, are they 100% going to be female, or is it possible that they can hermie? Just curious.