Has anyone tried using Procyon 100's with a hydroponic system?
What would be the best set up if one were to try this?
Would WW be a good strain?
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Has anyone tried using Procyon 100's with a hydroponic system?
What would be the best set up if one were to try this?
Would WW be a good strain?
I am wondering the same, but also with the haight solid state LEDs. I'd love some opinions of either.
I vegged up an MK-Ultra under a UFO clone and flowered a WW and an AK-47Quote:
Originally Posted by Iscandar
under Homebrew leds in 5 gallon, DWC, bubba-bucket.
Had to move the Ultra out doors early when she outgrew the closet.
The WW does very well under leds but the AK and MK were both better suited to outdoors. (Too tall)
Have some G13 flowering under 150W. of led now, and will be taking photos tomorrow if yer interested.
Aloha,
Weezard
<grumble> dblposting cranky &*^%$ server!
The Procyon 100 has only 635nm and 450nm, which is nowhere near enough spectral diversity to take a plant from veg to bloom, with good results. From what I've heard on many other forums, these lights make good veg lights or supplemental lights, but they certainly don't compare to a 400W in bloom.
If you want to get good grow results using LED's, you need to find a light that has the correct spectrum for marijuana. Weed uses 439nm, 469nm, 642nm, and 667nm for photosynthesis and 439nm, 483nm for carotenoids. You'll want a light that hits all of these, and one that does so with a narrow viewing angle. Most every product on the market uses a wide viewing angle (120 degree) or a varying angle (120 degree and 90 degree). If you want to make the most out of your grow with LED, and get good penetration, you need a 60 degree LED.
So where might someone get lights like that? I know the haight led has more spectrum than the Procyon, but those are the only available lights I've really concidered, though I've heard first hand that the supernova is good. I really want to use LEDs on a 3x3 ebb and flow, but gotta go mh/hps fer now. I'm just waiting for the right led. I may use hps over one tray next to another 3x3 with led down the road, as an experiment.
Lights featuring the #'s found above, are at Untitled
quit pumping your wares around the boards!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
how far away is the MH or HPS in the comparison grows?
THANKS!
-shake
I did a 150W HPS vs a 119W beta light, and after about 3 weeks stopped the test, as the HPS wasn't performing well.
I am doing a second test now with a 126W against a 400W MH, and the MH is losing by quite a bit. Once I hit bloom, I'll be removing a plant from LED and placing it under MH, so we can have an equal bloom comparison, since the MH has fallen way short in veg.
well if you are testing anything like in the pictures on the website the MH in the pics is way too high!
think that could be part of the problem?
-shake
Hmm, a 400W is supposed to cover a 4' x 4' area, yet it's confined in a 15" x 15" space, lined in mylar on 3 sides. The LED was 10" above the aero system, while the MH was 24" above. If it were any closer, the plants would suffer greatly or die from heat stress. The MH is 14" higher than the LED, and has almost 70% more wattage, as well as a much greater potential to carry light energy over long distances vs LED. I've known plenty of growers who only use HID, and most of them run between 12" and 24" from their plants, so I don't see the height as an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by headshake
Bloom will begin in a few days, and I will be removing the plants from the MH all together. I will be installing glass and ventilation to the MH, and taking one of the plants from LED, to place under it. Then I'll start bloom, side-by-side with the same sized plants, to give a pro comparison. The MH will be able to go lower with ventilation and glass. Anyhow, it takes time, but the switch will happen soon.
I am willing to guess you have not spent anytime reading LED items on this board. Try looking at WiskeyTango's Procyon100 grow logs.Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
I've had 2 Procyon's and I can tell you for a fact they will grow a plant from veg to bloom, even with just 2 color LEDs. While LED's have narrow wavelenghts, they are not that narrow. An example is the red Cree's @ 635nm; if you look at a spectral graph you'll see that while it's peak output is 635the output is a bell curve that is slighly asymetrical. It contains light up to and including 660nm (the actual peak absorbtion for photosynthesis). I happen to use the 635nm Cree's in a homemade hybred LED light that contains 240 of them, driven at 650ma/ea for 1.75 watts each for a total of 420 watts of LED. For blue and some other wavelenghts there is 8 T5s of 2' driven to VHO levels of 40 watts each for a total of 320 watts of T5. Together that's 740 watts total that out preform the 1 kw HPS it replaced.
While we are at this, I will mention to you I have also been using 2 TI Pro-Blooms 600s for the past year. They have the BEST full spectrum light output of any LED on the market. Those 2 TIs together will better a 1 kw HPS, I know cause I've done side by side grows using both.
As to your suggested viewing angles....well even 60 degrees is too wide for most grow light applications, but that's another story.
Check out Theroreme Innovation's ProBloom 600, at 330 watts it will cover 3'x3' nicely. Just keep in mind that these, and other LED grow lights work best growing SOG style plants (2' tall max) since LEDs lack the penertration of a HID light.Quote:
Originally Posted by dichlorvos
Since the shill's are doing this, mods please forgive me, you can find them here: GROW REVOLUTION Your online source for LED Grow Light Systems.
:)
well seeing as you've been gardening for years, which at your peak you were running 4000W you should know that cooling is damn near just as important as lighting in the first place. if you shove a 400W light into a 15" x 15" area with no cooling, then hell yes you are going to have problems that include slow growth and discoloration due to heat damage and heat stress.Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
and since your site is "different" than all the others out there, and you start at "square one" for all of us not so smart types, you would know that light is governed by the inverse square law that states "The intensity of light observed from a source of constant intrinsic luminosity falls off as the square of the distance from the object."
if one were to double the distance to a light source the observed intensity is decreased to (1/2)2 = 1/4 of its original value.
or in layman's terms, light intensity is directly,squarely proportional to the distance at which said light is placed from a receptor of light, such as, oh, let's say a leaf.
so, with that being said, the placement of your HID is TOTALLY relevant to the performance of your plants.
care to differ?
by the way, you will notice that for the most part i have no ego. i have only been growing since last October (not quite long enough to develop this ego you speak of). if you go do some research you will notice that i take pride in SHARING correct information, giving positive feedback and helping all those that are willing to accept it. i also like to push the envelope and dabble it things that are well over my head. but never, not once have i pushed something down someones throat. if you want to do it right then start a grow log. post pictures of YOUR side by side comparisons. don't post pics of others grows and say they came from your products.
and frankly, i could care less about those other sites you are involved with. this is my HOME! these are MY people. and i'm not gonna let them get ripped off or get bum advice by somebody trying to make a quick buck. if your product is as good as you say it is then you won't need to say anything!
like i said, send me some units and i'd be more than happy to do some grow logs and INDEPENDENT testing! as i'm sure many others on this site would do. and those people will be the first ones to go to bat for you and your products should they live up to the hype!
i believe that puts the ball in YOUR court!
not to mention, most people that adapt to technology early DO their own research. don't think you're the only one that can send emails to china and get products exported.
-shake
-shake
One of the primary reasons of the grow test, is to show the stress factor of the MH light in growing anything, even at 24" above the system. A lot of growers that I know personally, don't use reflectors, ventilation fans, etc... so for them, this is a real-world application test. Every grower using HID has suffered from the damage of heat stress at one point or another, as the tomatoes show. This is the reason we are adding in ventilation and glass for the bloom test. It will also allow us to lower the MH. First we show issues commonly faced by most gardeners, then we correct those issues with the MH (cause the LED doesn't have them), and do a PRO side-by-side bloom with ventilation.Quote:
Originally Posted by headshake
That is the reason I recommend using LED's at 6-12" from your plants. A lot of companies out there advise you to use them at 18 - 24", and they use less intense LED's. So what is your point?Quote:
Originally Posted by headshake
What is your argument, besides arguing? Are trying to say that if the light were at 12" above the plants, that the plants would be growing at 3-4x the rate they are now? The difference from 12-24" is not enough to make a substantial difference to the growth rate of a 400W MH confined in a 15" x 15" mylar covered area. Other people have already argued on other forums that the inverse square law doesn't apply the same in this scenario because the light is being used in a much smaller area than it was designed, with highly reflective material. So what's your argument? How much DIFFERENCE are you claiming there is in growth, by having the MH at 24" instead of 12"??? Answer that before continuing on with your vague excuse for the HID's performance.Quote:
Originally Posted by headshake
So you think that I'm going to send some kid that's only been growing weed since last October, free lights after he's been nothing but abrasive on the forum, and expect you're going to give professional, reliable results? PLEASE! Do you know how many no-names like you there are, that have MINIMAL growing experience at best, that are out there soliciting me for a free light, acting like they have some kind of authority and a following? The grow journal I posted has pictures from a 3rd party. I could post my own results if I wanted, but that comes later.Quote:
Originally Posted by headshake
You want an INDEPENDENT test? Go to grasscity.com as there will be plenty of them soon. If that's not good enough for you, Mr. Ed Rosenthal is doing a grow with our lights in 2-3 weeks from clone to harvest. 954W of our LED against a 1000W HPS. Why would I waste money sending you a free light, when I have someone like him who's agreed to do such high-powered testing already?
So please stop acting like Moses "My home, My people", as you don't speak for everyone on this forum. If you have something positive to add, or to discuss please do so, but continuing on in a manner like you have isn't very mature...
so how is this comparison valid then? you are using the HID with the worst possible conditions. and not a mention of any of that on your website. go figure. that's like saying everyone that runs a drip system has had a clogged dripper at one time or another, let's just clog em all and see how see does!Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
[quote=LEDGirl] A lot of growers that I know personally, don't use reflectors, ventilation fans, etc... so for them, this is a real-world application test.[/QUOTE}
so you assume that all of your customers are morons? not to mention leave out the whole truth while trying to convince them that your product is better? why not educate the customer and let your product do the talking?
again, you are making assumptions. i'm sure many growers have had heat issues. shit happens. but to assume that most people don't use proper cooling, c'mon.Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
what issueS are these? you've pointed out one issue that you make no mention of anywhere on your site.Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
again, you yourself used to run 4000W. and you didn't have adequate cooling?
even if cooling wasn't an issue, unless you are running co2, you need to have old, o2 filled gas exhausted while bringing in fresh, co2 filled air. so ventilation is a MUST, regardless of the type of lights your choose to run!
you tell me i have no point and then you tell me that you tell people to run their LEDs 6-12" away, in response to my inversed square law of light comment. yet in one of your following statements you tell me the LAW is not applicable. if it is a LAW of physics then exactly how is it not applicable?Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
what is your point is saying that most other companies use weaker LEDs and also tell people to run their lamps further away? why would they do this if they use weaker parts?
[quote=LEDGirl]What is your argument, besides arguing? Are trying to say that if the light were at 12" above the plants, that the plants would be growing at 3-4x the rate they are now? The difference from 12-24" is not enough to make a substantial difference to the growth rate of a 400W MH confined in a 15" x 15" mylar covered area. Other people have already argued on other forums that the inverse square law doesn't apply the same in this scenario because the light is being used in a much smaller area than it was designed, with highly reflective material. So what's your argument? How much DIFFERENCE are you claiming there is in growth, by having the MH at 24" instead of 12"??? Answer that before continuing on with your vague excuse for the HID's performance.[/QUOTE}
i don't think i've made any irrelevant points yet. i've been pretty concise and to the point and used your own information against you and you through that line out. LMAO!
if the HID had proper cooling and you used the light to the best of it's potential then YES, their should be a significant increase in growth. the distance might not make a difference with INADEQUATE COOLING. HID are generall more efficient, more so than even fluorescents.....but they still produce quite a bit of heat. if this heat is not dealt with in a suitable manner then yes, their will be an adverse effect to overall growth.
again, you tell me that a LAW of physics doesn't apply. that's pretty cool!
i make no assumption as to the difference in growth, because as you can see there are many factors that are taken into account when growing any plant, lighting merely being one, albeit, the most important. but if you set yourself up for failure from the get go you can't expect miracles in the end.
i guess there is no valid scientific proof as to why people use cooltubes with great success? it just happens to work because in their grow boxes and tents the inverse square law of light is applicable and in full effect?!
first off, i'm far from a kid, but again, thank you for assuming that you already have all of the answers. the only answers you have are insults and hot air as time and time again, i pick apart your "science" and put the rest of the worlds into effect. i often do this while using your own words against you, with nary a mention of them as you weakly attempt to defend your products and ideas.Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
wow, i'm a no-name. what's my momma gonna think of me know? get real. you know how many no-names would buy your products if they work because some other no-name gave them a good report? but what do you know about customers? you assume that they are stupid and do a half-assed job.Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
you also come onto message boards to pump your products, without paying for adequate advertising. and for what? because you are doing market research or what? or because you are too cheap or lack funds to properly advertise the greatest LED grow light to grace this rock?
i'd say my experience is better than minimal. i obviously have a firm grasp on the basics and fundamentals of this hobby. i'm a smart cat and learn from others mistakes. my grows are accounted for on the boards. my pics are around. you can find them. never once do i embellish on what i have done or what i use. my advice is solid. find out for yourself as it's all here in black and white.......and there is pictures too!
i never asked for a free light. i simply asked for a test unit. that's usually how reviews work. you send out a product, it's tested and then sent back. the companies or people reviewing the product don't pay for it and then send it back for a refund. i guess your internet was down during that day of the two-day business school that you attended.
i merely offered you an outlet to SHOW that your product indeed does what it's claimed to do. i don't think the word free once came out of my mouth, yet again, you blow hot air at me. another assumption that i wanted something for free. lol.
i have no authority and no following, nor do i attempt to. i'm merely saying that we watch each others backs around here. we are a tight-knit group. again, you attack me personally without first doing your research. shame shame. all while representing your own company and trying to shove products down peoples throats. i appreciate you making the majority of my arguments for my by continuously inserting your own foot in your mouth time and again.
we've already established the fact that you are not 100% forthcoming in your disclosure of the FACTS yet we are supposed to believe that those are indeed third-party photos?
i'm not gonna go chasing your products results down all over the internet. i have no relationship with those people. i don't know if they are trust worthy or if they are members of your own company, or perhaps even nomes-de-plume for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
i'd be interested to see Mr. Rosenthal's grow. where exactly will this information be located?
i have question for you though. what is the point of running 954W of LED as opposed to a 1KW HID? isn't the most alluring factor of LEDs is the cost of operation as opposed to HID? (in my opinion the lack of heat output is a bonus. it's already proven that growers (at least of cannabis) will use the BEST method available!)
i'm not moses. and for once you are correct in an assumption, i don't speak for everyone on this board! but i've continually de-bunked your arguments and slight of hand. and i've got at least Old Mac backing me up who has more experience than you've been alive twice over again! i know he has some pull here. so that's two voices that you've ignited that will at least garner some attention. all this because you were trying to get some free advertising. if you presented fact and no filler you might have gotten a pass, but you were full of fluff and when someone called you on it and proceeded to present facts you resorted to lame arguments and attempted to throw everything from my name to physics out the window! so don't sit here talk a big game without first thinking about all factors involved. i guess i shouldn't have expected as much from someone who thinks cooling/ventilation is an SIGNIFICANT PART of growing ANYTHING indoors.Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
should of just bought that advertising space now, huh?!
i have no intention for jocking HIDs as i use CFLs. i just like my science to line up with the facts, call me crazy.
so i guess you can considered yourself schooled by this "kid with no experience"!
-shake
here is the post i keep referring to in case any of you missed it.
[quote=LEDGirl]I'm new to this site, so I'll start off by saying hello :) To start off, here's some background on me:
I've been a medical marijuana patient now for about 5 years. During that time, I've grown aeroponically, and because I didn't like anything on the market, I developed my own high-quality units. I consider myself a very professional grower, but everyone can make their own judgments. At my peak, I was running 4,000W dual spectrum over two 2' x 4' aero trays. Some things happened in my life, as they often do, so I downsized to 3000W over the same area. Below is a picture of a Strawberry Cough x White Rhino plant I grew back then. The plant was on the outside edge of the system (furthest away from the lights), and the cola you're staring out came out to be 31g-32g dried. The entire plant stood about 2.5' tall and yielded nearly 8oz's.
Anyhow, I help patients here in WA with setting up their gardens, getting the right equipment, clones, etc... and teaching them how to grow. For people seeking a medical authorization, I refer them to the appropriate clinics so they are able. I'm also an employee of a company that builds LED grow lights specifically for marijuana, which are the ones seen in the pictures. One patient that I began working with about two years ago has progressed a lot, and like me, has switched to using LED's instead of HID. She's not the type to post pictures online, but she did say it was ok for me to take pictures of her progress. Prior to this bloom she was running 3800W of LED over the same 2 aeroponic trays that I use. Here are the first progress pictures that I was able to take of her grow on 8-22-09
Wow, I won't even waste my time... I've got better things to do that to put up with your BS. Have fun ranting with everyone else though ;) And for your info, I didn't read any of what you wrote, I just saw that you wasted a bunch of time sounding like an idiot with nearly a page of what's most certainly CRAP. Take care NOOB. No one takes advice from someone who has less than a year of growing experience...
You joined this board 2 days ago, have 18 posts att, most of which are spam.....Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
and you call Headshake a noob??? :wtf:
You really are great at this marketing stuff. Hope your company goes tits up.
:)
i'm sure people would love to buy products from someone who hurls personal insults, calls names and tells people they are morons for providing FACTS.Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmac
and the response to a rebuttal that was well though out and articulate was a dismissal due to the fact that she couldn't defend herself......and i'm immature!
thanks again old mac!
-shake
Tits up.
So true in so many ways, Joe!Quote:
Tits up.
M.P.
Aloha TFL
You said;
"no infrared, no ultraviolet, very important for some plant processes to work correctly..."
Perhaps, but for practical purposes, I find that dichroics, (660 and 470 nm.), can do a bang-up job.:thumbsup:
Here's the latest Led Vs Sunlight grow-off.
[attachment=o228065]
G13-BB cuttings.
Sunlight girl inna middle.
The indoor girls are a tad smaller and the outdoor girl had her main cola chopped for bud rot,
[attachment=o228067]
but, considering the container sizes, that's a damn fine comparison for 150 W. of LED.
The indoor girls used half the water and nutes!
They had no rot, no borg and all their trich caps in place with 90% of them cloudy!
[attachment=o228066]
Brought these out in the afternoon.
[attachment=o228068]
4 hours of sunlight "toasted" about 30% of the caps to a nice amber hue without shriveling them.
Then I chopped next morning at sun-up.
One girl got too close to the light and got bleached.
Also stopped growing for a week.
[attachment=o228069]
Leds work well with only deep red and blue.
UVb burns the heads off of trichs as they ripen and turn cloudy.
Far red, 730 nm., may or may not hasten blooming, but, so far I haven't found any use for IR.
Always eager to learn though.:)
Aloha,
Weezard
my chinse lights seem to be doing fine on my 4' plant. right now i am using a prosource 180w ufo, and that hydro girl gave me a free 126w led light of hers to test out. ill take a free light anytime:D i will do a side by side test with her 126w agianst my 180w. when the money is right i might also get some TI pro blooms to try out.
but i am very impressed with my 180w 5-ban light. my plants were in 95-100F* heat all their life and they were attacked by spider mites. plus i use to have a 90w ufo that i used for these plants from start to 5 weeks of flowering.
ill let u guys know how it works out for me with her 126w light that she says will blow away all the rest. it must be magic!!! i did use her light for a few weeks on 2 of my plants but took it out of my grow area and just used my 180w. you can see her light in one of the pics on the left side corner.
[quote=oldmac]
While we are at this, I will mention to you I have also been using 2 TI Pro-Blooms 600s for the past year. They have the BEST full spectrum light output of any LED on the market. Those 2 TIs together will better a 1 kw HPS, I know cause I've done side by side grows using both.
QUOTE]
hey oldmac what watt leds dose TI use in the pro-bloom? what size foot print will it cover? and whats be best higth to hang them at for good pentration? any info on these lights wold be appriated.
also hows the vegging on these lights without any side lighting?
LMAO!Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadedHermie
that's awesome DH! i missed a bunch of stuff in this thread. i've had my kids this weekend and my son spends more time on my computer than i do when he's here! (playing harry potter games, not visiting cannabis message boards though!)
man, this thread got good.
i must say, spams not that bad. fry that shit, throw it on bread with some mustard. well at least if remember right from my childhood.
and damn these LEDs and all their confusing-ness.
-shake
They average 2watts per diode, but there may be a few 1 & 3 watters in the mix, I'm not positive.Quote:
Originally Posted by potofgold
The TI Pro-Bloom has 150 LEDs; 105 red, 18 blue, 15 white and 12 "proprietary" some of which are UVb, IR etc. (no mention of "sunrise orange":D).
For photon whore plants like mj, 3'x3' growing SOG, 1 pro-bloom is enough. I'm currently getting ready to launch "fogfognugen" an aero/fog grow system and for starters we are using 2 pro-blooms on a light rail to cover a 4'x4' tray. Ultimately we will use 4 per tray, but decided to experiment first with 2.
They are not designed for vegging, but would do ok probably. I use a 600MH soon to be replaced with 320watts of T5, 4' overdriven to 80w/bulb, for vegging. Which btw I don't do a lot of, I grow SOG. Which brings up my grow philosiphy indoors; regardless of the artifical light used, it is more efficent to grow lots of small single cola plants then bushes. I'm not interested in large plants, with big stems, lotsa branches and leaves because I'm going to throw that stuff away, I just wants buds. This does not work tho if you have concerns about plant count, then look towards SCROG.
DH,Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadedHermie
I am finally at a point of building my own light like you did. I had a 1W based model made and it works, but it would be better with higher powered emiters. Would you be willing to email me links to the parts you used to build yours for the LED drivers, contact for the heat sink, stuff like that? It's ledtime @ comcast.net.
It would be much appreciated. Seeing the results you and Weez got I am blown away. Those higher powered emitters work really well. The 120 degree pattern of the 1W doesn't penetrate all that well. Works good, but not good enough.
Thanks!
or just start a thread with all the info (and yes, i know it's in the other one!)! make 'em sticky it and then everyone has it all in one, nice, neat package.Quote:
Originally Posted by ledtime
-shake
I thought all that info was in;Quote:
Originally Posted by ledtime
http://boards.cannabis.com/indoor-lighting/167881-calling-out-weezard-led-advice.html
I'll save ya some drillin', though.:)
Generally, anything electronic can be had from mouser.com.
And a short e-bay search will turn up heatsinks to burn.
(Got my first ones by cannabilizing an ancient stereo amp)
We'll be hangin' out here:jointsmile: and are always willing to lend a hand.:hippy:
So, jump right in.
Aloha
Weeze
It's official. Ledengin is throwing its hat into the horticultural lighting ring. Looks like the 660's are going to be a permanent catalog offering. They're also real proud of the 40-watt whites they've come out with. Too bad this is just a 5 watter.Quote:
Santa Clara, CA - August 27, 2009. LedEngin, Inc. today announced the addition of Far Red products to its high power LED product portfolio for horticultural applications. The Far Red 740nm LED provides record radiometric power up to 400mW in a compact 4.4 mm x 4.4 mm package with exceptional radiant flux density for LED grow lights.
LedEngin Far Red LEDs add to the current portfolio of Red (635nm), Deep Red (660nm) and Blue (460nm) LEDs for horticultural grow lights. The Far Red wavelength simulates seasonal effects and the onset of sunrise/sunset to prolong perceived daylight. This product completes the family of desired wavelengths in the plant absorption spectrum of light believed to enhance plant growth. LED grow lights allow customers to optimize the light to promote accelerated and predictable plant growth while realizing high energy efficiency compared to traditional horticulture lamp sources.
ledtime: check out the Mean Well PLN 60 series. Their 12V driver will push 4 red / deep red 15 watters beautifully @ 10.5-11V range.
You need their 15V driver for ledengin 15W blues. You can run 3 hard (18 watts) ea.) or 4 easy. Neat, simple, easy. Hooks direct to the LEDs. CC and CV. All protected. Just mount your leds and connect. :thumbsup:
DH,
What if I wanted to use more reds? What driver would I use then?
If you don't have a bench supply, a mastech 3010 will run 7 reds, hard. :D You'll need something similar to get the leds matched up so they run efficiently, so I'd start with that. It's really the foundation of your system.
Mean Well PLN 60-12's are the best bang for the buck. At 12V, the 100 watt PLN's spec out real closely; almost double the price. :wtf:
Need to power 6 reds? Use 2 60-12's, 3 reds on each.
Up to 8 reds? 3 or 4 on each driver.
9 reds? You'll need 3 60-12's, so back to 3 leds per driver.
And so on. The smaller groupings you break your leds into, the closer you can match them up. Different voltages will cause individual leds to draw different amounts of current. And we want them all pulling the same current--1.2 A, or thereabouts....So we "bin" them into little groups that will behave the same way at each given supply voltage.
Hope that's making sense. I just re-read it and I'm not sure how clear it is unless you understand the idea already...:(
I 'splain better if it's not clear. Ain't hard. Jes' ask.
Hey there, Iscandar,Quote:
Originally Posted by Iscandar
I saw your post and thought you'd might like to see my grow diary as I'm using Procyon 100's for vegging in a dutch bucket system filled with hydroton and in a homemade aeroponics system - they seem to be producing nice, healthy plants to my eye. I chose Procyon b/c it's an honest company (which some LE manufacturers are not) and they don't make wil claims about what their lights can do - also they performed well on tests run at Experiments with Hydroponics, Aeroponics, and LED Grow Lighting. But I would caution - tomatoes are not as demanding in their need for light intensity as tropical plants like MJ!
My First Grow: Aeroponics, LED veg, Super HPS flower, CO2 sealed room
Since the legendary Weezard has put in his 2 cents, I can only offer my own humble experiences: (he really is something of a wizard when it comes to what he does with those LEDs, isn't he?)
If you want you can check my pictures and make your own assessments. The plants were put under Procyon 100's after 3 weeks under fluorescent lights. They're in three groups with the oldest being 3 months old, the youngest, six weeks old.
I won't be using LEDs for flowering, but they see me to be a low heat veg alternative that seemed an economical choice when factoring in replacement bulbs, wattage & cooling, among other things - my Procyons cost me $450 a piece, and they have a long life, so I'm satisfied with them as a long term, cost effective, "set it and forget it" vegging light.
Just a bit of advice, when feeding plants and growing under LEDs, go easy on the nutrients, they do not take as much as plants under regular HID lighting.
Another thing about the Procyon 100 - I believe they have a maximum penetration to about 3 feet, so if your plant gets any bigger than that, your bottom branches may suffer for it. Ultimately, I do not want to veg my plants or my mothers over 3 feet, so it works for me, but you may have other needs. Most LEDs will only have about 3 foot penetration below canopy level.
Good luck & research, research, research before buying.
Procyons for $450?! WTF Mine was 600.
Yer right about the 3ft penetration though, my lower branches definitely suffered. Scrog gone wild. They're definitely better suited for SOG type applications or ScrOG if its done right.
Aside from all of yall's nano mumbojumbo, this threads been quite entertaining. Funny and informative. Just wish I new more bout electronics so I could keep up with that end of it. Guess I'm just a gardener. NEhoo, .....SPAM is terrible for you! Tons of sodium and processed animal parts. In a can. Then there's that gelatinous substance that seems to collect around the edges. I went camping once and they gave out care pkgs with a can o' SPAM and accompanying recipe book. Why?
im also looking to build an LED grow light. got a buddy of mine whos repairing my 120watt chinease (1w). and i decided to order some more intense diodes to build a new array as the 1w's are okay at best. these 5w reds seem much more promiseing, i was going to have 5 watt reds and 3w blues but due to the 3w being on back order i may just order a bunch of the same 1w blues im useing to replace the chinease with.
im not sure what the driver is for, anybody care to explain?
Simple--it's just a transformer.
"Wall current" is 120 volts AC, leds just want a few volts DC, like from a battery.
The driver just converts the AC to DC, like a wall wart does.
But leds need the current to be tightly controlled, so real led drivers have some kinda regulator built-in.
Transformer + Regulator = driver.
That simple.
We'll walk ya through building a light if you want. Can you solder?
no names? What happened to Ed Rosenthals results?I'm a "no-name", as is everyone else on the forums you predate.Jesus lady...it's called therapy...get some.Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl