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hey anyone able to tell me if when i turn my inline fan on in flowering why the leaves would start to droop??? im not into flowering but i switched it on in veg and left it to see if the fresh air dragged in would be benificial to my girls wich it wasnt! they drooped soon as i turned it off everything recovered this makes me worry about going into flower and using my fan at the moment. Sum expert advice would be much appreciated HELP
Do you mean your air intake fan, if yes where are you drawing the air in from.
Is the air polluted, is it cold or hot.
I cant really see how your intake would make them droop.
maybe too much air flow directly on the plants?
i am able to bring from indoors and outdoors i made both accesable but it came from indoors not cold from outside but it was directly on2 plants air fresh and unpaluted temps never exceed 26 when lights out no lower than 20 so cold aint it i wonder??
Your air intake should come in at the bottom of your grow space not directly on top of your plants.;)
Aloha, Normski,Quote:
Originally Posted by normski11
One effect of a breeze is to cause plants to transpire more.
If a plant tries to move more water than usual, and fails, it will droop.
Sounds like a root problem. If she's rootbound, turning a fan on her is like a stress test.
Just a guess, but easy to check.
Regards
Weezard
thanks turned fans off completely nd everything looks like their loveing it again BUT how do i solve the problem if its to do with the roots do i just veg untill they are healthy enuf 2 take a breez on them or shuld i be doing something to fix m problemo with additives:thumbsup:
Some photos of your plants and your growspace would give us a better idea, maybe they need bigger pots.Quote:
Originally Posted by normski11
I use Cannazyme to keep the roots healthy.:jointsmile:
Additives?:wtf:Quote:
Originally Posted by normski11
This is why we ask folks to fill out a troubleshooting form.:)
Saves a lot of "back anf forth questions and wasted effort.
Dunno if you grow hydro or dirt.
If it's dirt, the fix is a bigger container.
More root room = better tranpiration, better chemistry control and bigger healthier plants.
We have some real experts here, but even the experts need lots of information that we might not recognize as essential.
So, give it up, fill out the entire form, send decent pictures of the whole plant and receive multi-bucks worth of help for your efforts, OK?:)
Help us help you.
Weezard
Bottom left of my post is a link for Stinkyattics troubleshooting form fill it in and you should get the best help on the site.:thumbsup:
E-indoor or outdoor--------- im indoor
E-soil, soilless, coco, aero, or hydroponic---coco
E-specific medium---coco
CSL-Soil type/brand--- bricks
HCL-Hydro/aero/soilless system type--- im in pots
SCL-Anything you have added to the soil--- i added rizotonic and ionic coco grow, added superthrive when things drooped
SCLR-Soil or slab runoff pH--- 6.2
E-Water source---tap
E-Source water pH ---7.3
HRT-Source water EC (if hydro)
E-Age of plant--- 5 weeks
E-Type of fertilizer---ionic grow
E-Rate of application (if hydro, this is your PPM number, preferably after each component is added)
E-Lighting source and distance from plant---26"away from plants
E-Air temperature (both day and night if you are running a dark period)--- 26 during lights on 20.6 when off
HD-Reservoir temperature--- always luke warm
E-Air % Relative humidity--- 65%-80%
E-Lighting schedule ---18/6
E-Type of ventilation your room has---just a zipper undone on my room
TR-Did you pre-soak your media in pH corrected solution?---NO (major mistake) but corrected my mistake after a couple of weeks and baught ph down as it seemed high on the test i gave it everything picked up soon as i started to change it, will put picks on soon tomorow maybe checked em out and everything is lifting for the sky i hope this is them recovering cross ya fingas 4 me guys:thumbsup:
Just one more question, please.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by normski11
What size pots?
Coco is excellent and will support larger plants in smaller pots.
Just started using it myself, thanks to Puffzter.
Holds moisture well but is easy to overwater is what I've read.
Disclaimer;
I'm just an amateur with a little talent. I can give you opinions, my experience and educated guesses. Might even sprinkle in a fact now and again.;)
BUT, for professional advice;
Once you are able to post a snapshot or two, I'm sure Stinky Attic will ride in on a large white horse and shed light everywhere.:D
She does that, ya know.:)
If not, there are real solid folks here, eager to help.
There's Weedhound. She has skills and knowledge. You can trust what she tells you.
If I run into problems with the coco, I'll pester Puffzter, he seems to know what he's doing.
Opie Yutts has a good head on his shoulders, too.
And Greenthing, you've met.
A patient helpful guy.
Always seems to have the right link at the right time.
Sounds like your girls are on the mend.
Give them my best.;)
Weezard <rambling again:rasta:>
im in pots 7ltr im stuck with what is wrong went to check and it seems they allways droop just b4 lights out because they were loveing it a few hours previouse and i hadnt touched them atall ive done grows b4 NEVER HAD PROBLEMS!!!!!!! This is makeing me feel amature as hell, keep firing your opinions at me thanks
got sum pics how do i upload them grr im crap with laptops
hey people pics on my profile couldnt get them on the page
I cant help with this one.Quote:
Originally Posted by normski11
Here is some good info on growing in coco hope it helps.
"Being an experimented grower, you can use almost any hydro formula for growing in coco. You need to be aware of coco special caracteristic and adapt ph/EC of the nutes you use acording to it.
Coco main caracteristic wich does it different to most other hydro media is its very high CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity), from 7 to 20x higher than perlite, rockwool, hydroton, etc. This mean coco may store very large amounts of nutes that are uptaked as cations: micros, Ca, K, Mg.
Practical consecuances of that are:
-You need to use higher ECs at the start in order to load the medium with enough nutes, or plants seems undernuted. Most especific coco formulas have higher percentage of N and Ca. So if you use a non especific for coco nutes, try to add a plus of the most veg formula (high on N) during first 3 weeks.
-You need to keep cations balanced in the media. Its accomplished by knowing your nute profile and using a ph management according to it: ph below 5.8 achieves higher Ca uptake and lower Mg uptake, thus you reduce the Ca stored in the coco and increses Mg. By using ph over 5.8, you achieve the inverse. Keeping balanced the amounts of Ca and Mg in coco is the key to heve the best yields and avoid problems. And more important, it allows you to not flush until preharvest. Coco dont react well to flushing, as growing in it is based in its high CEC. Anyway, after any flush in coco you should water feed inmediatelly after, or you have an N deff pretty fast. Aditionally, flushing have little impact on cations, as they are electrically bonded to coco colloids.
-There are two basic school of growing in coco. One based on using a similar nute profile and ph management than with other hydro media, and wich requires often flushing, and other based on different nute profile and especific coco ph management without flushing. First one is easier, especially for those growers with previous hydro experience, but get lower yield, its pricey (often res changes, especially problematic when water quality is a concern) and often is playing on the edge of salts lock out (mostly, excess Ca stored, wich difficulties Mg and K uptake), and usually requires supplementing with Epsom salts to avoid Mg deff.
One way of avoiding problems if you are going to use a non coco especific nutes is by prebuffering the coco with a CalMg solution before use (its the procedure with Canna Crog slabs) and then use nutes soft on Ca and Mg, adjusting ph depending of plants behavior (Mg starting deff showing, raise ph; starting Ca deff, low ph).
So you can use any hydro nute formula, but it will require a longer learning curve to get the best of it. While coco especific nutes are very easy to use. The canna coco line is really forgiven, although it tends to produce plants at harvest too green in my like if you follow strickly their schedule. Ive found some tips to avoid it, as using the A and B in different proportions. The Hesi line is easier to use (just one bottle), is a bit more balanced (less N) but bottles last less.
There was an excelent phrase: "feed the medium, not the plant" for organic growers wich is pretty accurate for growing in coco. Keep balanced the coco and all goes smooth. And the key is ph management, rather than flushing. Flushing is only adecuate when the balance is severely broken.
Other issue to be aware of when growing in coco is the water quality. Relatively low Na (sodium) content may be a serious problem as it tends to accumulate and reduce colloids avalaible for Ca, Mg and K. And high Ca content must be compensated on the nute profile. Its more difficult using hard water in coco than with any other hydro media.
With a automatized watering systems, adding about 25-30% perlite enhance perfomance, IMHO. But when handwatering sparsely, its not needed and you can use coco alone with excelent results. The way of watering affects too to the ph management. With sparse waterings, the media shift its ph as water evaporates and get uptaked, so you can use starting higher ph than with dayly waterings.