Spider mites getting aggressive at 5th week flowering

Hi there,

What to do if you find a lot of spider mites and their eggs around 5th week of flowering? I have the impression that it is now way too late to stop them from spreading everywhere, but fortunately most of the upper buds are still intact. Should It be harvested right away? I know it's not entirely ready but there are quite a few trichomes already. Nothing amber tho, mostly clear/white. (see pic)

I'm just thinking perhaps it would be better to harvest what is possible to save right now, rather than wait until the whole plant might be more potent, but infested by spider mites? What do you think should be done?

have to tried neem oil? it is safe to use still and will keep those little fuckers down until u harvest.

Unfortunately where I am there is no way I can get my hands on that on time. Also by the looks of it, and from what I read online, I'm skeptical about the chances of getting rid of them buggers at this point. There are a lot of tiny curled leafs in the lower buds and they seem to each host tons of small bitches and their eggs... Even tho I would like to crush them all it's just not accessible without touching the trichomes... and even then I wonder if I could reach them all. They're just everywhere, ready to multiply.. :(

So I'm really afraid that in a few days it'll be just covered with mites if I just leave it like that...

do u have webs forming on the buds? can u take a pic?

No webs yet, and even if I took a pic all I could show is the white spots on some leaves. Most of them seem to hide under the leaves which is hard to photograph. Most leaves at the bottom now seem to host perhaps 1-2 adult mites with a lot of white little tiny dots that looks like eggs. But you've got to look under the leaves to seem them. That's on my most intact/hopeful plant.

I have another plant which is more infected but then again all u would see is just many white spots on the top of the leaves. No webs or anything crawing on the top of leaves. So I guesss It is not THAT bad yet but I really see it coming... I'm slightly panicked, just want to take the best action before it's too late...

if i remember right spider mites life cycle is 3 days they lay eggs and die pretty much so if u can go in and clean leafs off by hand for three or four days u should really slow the problem down that is if u dont have access to neem and are trying to stay natural organic ect... i always have pest problems, probably because i work at a hydro store and am surrounded by people carrying there problems (pests) and after work i can never change ect before entering the green room and neem oil controls everything i have problems with.

IF you work at a hydro store you should be aware that recommending neem oil on a plant that is within 3 weeks of harvest is questionable advice. The residue has an outrageously rancid flavor and odor, and will RUIN your product if used too late. There are other, better options. For sprays, I use SMC on my flowering plants up to about 1-2 weeks before harvest and STILL try to avoid getting it on the buds, even though coriander oil is nontoxic (and smells lovely). For use in that sensitive time right before chop chop, you can fight mites by dropping temps, adding wind, and removing webs with a small vacuum. But within 3 weeks of flower, options for dealing with them are VERY limited, which is why it is important to knock back all pest populations before then. A good method for this is a set of pyrethrin bombs set off 2-3 days apart- bomb twice at least, but three times is much better. Pyerthrin breaks down quickly in intense light, and kills pests instantly.

If at all possible give er a shower!! LOL

I have one of those adjustable presure shower heads that works wonderfully...As long as you can thouroughly dry er afterwards you can knock them off with water.

Ok here's a pic of a bud from another plant that's been more damaged by the mites. You can see the white spots on the leaves caused by the spidermites...

It doesn't have much THC on leaves as you can see but the seed pods are well swollen with it. So what to do with a bud like this one? Harvest now or wait longer?? By looking under some of the tiny, curled bud leaves, and seeing many eggs sleeping there, I'm afraid if I just sit and wait I'm just giving them the chance to live, spread and do more damage. As some said I think It's now too late into flowering and a shower wouldn't reach these tiny curled leaves and would probably endangered my plant with fungi/mold, no? I've had that in the past... Awful! Lots of nice bud wasted. Quite frankly, I don't think it's realistic to think I can get rid of them (mites) at this point. Look at the pic and judge for yourself.

As nobody seems to think I should harvest now, let's just suppose I do, would I get any good smoke or at least a little high from a 5 week flowering plant? Is it still gonna be worth it or am I better to wait to let THC mature while taking the risk of smoking hundreds of spidersmites? Or will they kill my plant If I let it mature like that? Which is best?? Wait or harvest??? Help! :(

If you have smoked for a long time you have already smoked thousands of spider mites...That being said I hate the little bastards but when I do catch a case of them I let my plant go all the way to harvest.. A 5 week plant will produce a weak ass buzz, I would rather let it do its thing and when you harvest cut the whole plant and hang it upside down. The spider mites do not like being upside down for some reason and they all gather at the top end of stick...

I have done this a few times and it tends to work...

Hi guys,

Here's an update on the situation... Strangely (but fortunately) my most mature plant seems to resist the spider mites invasion much better than the others... I found a couple of mites on it but I always kill them right away and it seems under control. Wish I had cloned it!!! My other plants however, I'm not sure if I'll get anything much from them... Not many trichomes are visible (they are only on pods, and tiny) and the buds look pretty ugly now, with lots of red/dead hair. Are the mites gonna completely destroy/kill them If I let them grow any longer?

As for the more mature plant, it's now looking quite nice and smells absolutely amazing. Very strong, sweet and fruity/slightly skunky smell. It's lovely and I get the feeling that harvest time is very near? I'm attaching the picture to let you see it. When I look simply with my eyes the trichs looks mostly clear/white but as you will see, the picture seems to make them look more white with some/many amber ones already. So my question is, Is this baby ready for harvest or what?? It's been about 6+ weeks now... What do you think?

Thanks for the help

Here's another perspective that shows more of the main top cola, perhaps it can give you a better idea:

Be patient wait a week or two.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stinkyattic

IF you work at a hydro store you should be aware that recommending neem oil on a plant that is within 3 weeks of harvest is questionable advice. The residue has an outrageously rancid flavor and odor, and will RUIN your product if used too late. There are other, better options. For sprays, I use SMC on my flowering plants up to about 1-2 weeks before harvest and STILL try to avoid getting it on the buds, even though coriander oil is nontoxic (and smells lovely). For use in that sensitive time right before chop chop, you can fight mites by dropping temps, adding wind, and removing webs with a small vacuum. But within 3 weeks of flower, options for dealing with them are VERY limited, which is why it is important to knock back all pest populations before then. A good method for this is a set of pyrethrin bombs set off 2-3 days apart- bomb twice at least, but three times is much better. Pyerthrin breaks down quickly in intense light, and kills pests instantly.

---

What is this SMC and where can i find it....

here's some advice from my friend Opie Yutt's.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Opie Yutts

Well if you've read the threads much you should know what to do, but I guess I'll say it once again.

No pest strip
insecticide bombs
Avid
Spider mite destroyers (beneficial insect)

The first on the list is the easiest, and works like a charm 9 times out of 10. If it doesn't work, you are not using enough or you didn't turn down your ventilation for a couple days, or your particular mite has developed a resistance to Dichlorvos.

The last on the list is extremely expensive, but you can use it right up until harvest. I would at least double the recommended dosage if you want it to be sure to work. Triple if you have a bad infestation, which doesn't take long if you don't keep it in check.

Anything other than what's on the list will not get rid of the mites, but some things like neem oil are used to help with control.

NOTE: Kill them quick. They spread fast.

---

i had a mite problem myself a few months ago and i tried several of the things
suggested on the web. then i followed Opie's advice and went to the local
hardware store and bought a couple of 'Hot Shot' No-Pest Strips for about
$8.00 each.

i only used one of them and the mites have been gone ever since and they disappeared almost overnight

SMC = coriander oil. Buy at hydro shop.

No-Pest Strips work. Without question the easiest, fastest, way to get rid of them is with the no-pest strips.

if you can use pyrethrin then you might be able to use Permethrin. it is a pyrethroid. it is commonly used to kill insects. it i have used it to kill spider mites that my snakes have gotten in the past. it is commonly used in lice treatment too. it is the active ingredient in equate bedding spray. that's the walmart brand of lice treatment. it can be found by the pharmacy. it's should be under $4 a can. i'm not saying it will work but it might be worth looking into by someone with well more experience then my own.

for the treatment of snake tanks you remove the reptile and waterdish and spray over the bedding and let dry before returning said reptile. i usually spray a couple of times to make sure everything gets it. it is kinda of a dusty, dry spray evaporates pretty quckly. i used it once and the next day, maybe two, all spider mites were gone.

....or you could get some lady bugs. they eat spider mites. when you are done you can vacuum them up and keep them in the fridge.

where are do you get lady bugs you ask? well that wasn't the question!

hope this helps.

-shake

most growers won't use chems late in flowering so we use our tube-type vacumn cleaners when control of mites is needed. just put a couple fingers over the nozzle to act as a screen to keep the leaves on the plant and gently pass it over the affected areas, including webbing. do this every couple of days and you'll see far fewer critters running around and no more webs, altho it will do nothing about the eggs...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by madeline

most growers won't use chems late in flowering so we use our tube-type vacumn cleaners when control of mites is needed. just put a couple fingers over the nozzle to act as a screen to keep the leaves on the plant and gently pass it over the affected areas, including webbing. do this every couple of days and you'll see far fewer critters running around and no more webs, altho it will do nothing about the eggs...

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yeah, but doesn't that usually pertain to things fed to the plant? this is an aerosal, that is basically like a smoke, that dissepates. you can always spray them with some water. just a thought, something that should be looked into with someone with more experience than i.

what's one plant of someones grow in the name of science? i'm pretty sure it won't kill you and the worst that will happen is that the taste would be altered. i'll pay for the can of spray!

any takers?

-shake

Being a Noob, and not very experienced, I rarely give advice. But when it comes to no pest strips I have gained a little knowledge. I read what Oppie Yutts posted about them and tried them myself. I had Mites or Aphids or some other pest and used no pest strips and got rid of the problem in less than a week. Its not an Organic Pesticide, and I try to stay Organic, however pests can ruin everything and I recommend no pest strips.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by greentard

Being a Noob, and not very experienced, I rarely give advice. But when it comes to no pest strips I have gained a little knowledge. I read what Oppie Yutts posted about them and tried them myself. I had Mites or Aphids or some other pest and used no pest strips and got rid of the problem in less than a week. Its not an Organic Pesticide, and I try to stay Organic, however pests can ruin everything and I recommend no pest strips.

---

you can get organic spray for spider mites.

-shake

Try diatomacious earth. Basically it is a fossil that has a high liquid absorbtion capability and when the insect walks on it, it absorbs the water from their exoskeleton and causes them to die. Chemical composition is silica sodium magnesium and iron so likely will not overfert by adding it to the soil surface. Just be careful applying it maybe wear something over ur mouth (bandana, painter's mask) because it can be harmful to inhale or ingest certain types.

Edit: Hmm I guess they lay their eggs in the webbing so I don't know how well this would work but very good preventative method. However if they walk on soil sometimes this would be good.

First off I am a noob when it comes to all of this so whether or not this will work tried and true for other people, I do not know.

I tried once before to have a few plants but they got completely infested with mites and we lost the battle. This time around I decided to try and outsmart the lil buggers and came up with a solution that did the trick. Cheap, easy, effective and smells great! Not sure if this is okay to be applied while they are flowering (my other ones never made it that far) so an expert reading this will have to comment on when/if it is safe to apply.

Here's what I did.

Large Batch

2 T Whole Cloves
2 Whole Cinnamon Sticks
2 T Chili Oil
4 C Water

Put it all in a pot, bring to a boil and turn it off to cool. (Should look like tea with oil floating on top) Once cool, strain (personally I put it all in the bottle and just add water to it when I get low or set the cloves and cinnamon sticks aside for another batch) and put in a spray bottle. Shake well then apply to plants by misting under the leaves first then all over a few times a day.

Make sure if you're doing this on plants inside that you transfer them to a bath tub or have a towel to prevent excess spray from getting on anything, it will stain.

Please feel free to leave me comments, etc. Would love to hear if this works for someone else, or not!

i am having the same problem but I caught them pretty soon. I killed about ten by hand. my plant is about 7 weeks old. I read that you can kill them on contact with a 1:1 mixture of rubbing alcohol and water. im going to try the no pest strips or whatever the hell its called.:mad:

Schultz Insect Spray
try something like this and wash you plant after

try something like this an wash you plant after
Schultz Insect Spray

hey there guys i see your having problems with the lil shits (spider mites)

i have the same problem 3 weeks in to veg and i noticed i had them..
i went and bought a bottle of PLANT VITALITY 250ml for £30 from my local grow shop.. i have sprayed it 2 times now and i have not seen 1 mite in site. good thing about this is it actually helps the plant out my leaves are bigger and greeny aswell.. (i also sprayed the soil too.)

to keep on top of the situation im going to spray plants once a week up until i notice foilage of flowers.. and inbtween am going to use a hotbox Sulphur Vapouriser once a week aswell up until 2 weeks before harvest maybe 3 weeks to b on the safe side and aswell im going to purchase some of the NO PEST STRIPS iv heard alot about on here aswell to use through out...

heres a little more info on detrents for spider mites guys hope you find useful

The Two Spotted Spider Mite
The spider mite, Tetranychus urticae, is a tiny, eight-legged pest related to the spider and tick. Spider mites are members
of the arachnid class. The term "spider miteâ?� comes from their behavior of spinning fine silk webs on infested
leaves and new growth. Adults are normally green or yellow but turn red when day lengths shorten in the autumn.
Adults have an oval body, with two red eyespots near the head end of the body. Females usually have a large dark
blotch on each side and numerous bristles covering the legs and body. They look sort of like bristly black dots. Their
eggs are visible too â?? they are very tiny, white and are laid closely grouped together.
Spider Mites attack plants by stabbing the underside of the leaves and sucking out the sap, causing the cells to collapse
and die. As their numbers increase, the number of white speckles on the leaf increases and the leaf eventually
dies. Once the spider mites begin reproduction, a distinctive `webbing' forms, usually under the leaf and then at
the growing tip of the plant. The mites disperse from a plant of declining food quality on threads of webbing and
drift or are blown on to other plants.
What makes this pest truly difficult to control is its rate of reproduction. Each female will lay up to 12 eggs per day.
Mating is not required for egg production. At 70º F, these eggs will hatch in as few as three days and will develop into
adults in only 14 days. Adult females also ave the ability to go dormant for a time after the photoperiod (daily hours of light)
shortens, then re-emerge to lay more eggs a few weeks after the photoperiod lengthens again. That's one reason Spider Mites
keep reappearing crop after crop on indoor plants.
Life Cycle and environment
In a given colony of two-spotted spider mites, both adult males and females are present, however females usually outnumber
males three to one. This factor accounts for their high reproduction rate as a single female can lay on average
over 100 eggs in her life time. Females normally lay eggs on the underside of leaves. The rate at which a two
spotted spider mite develops from an egg to an adult is greatly dependent on environment. Their life cycle is accelerated
at higher temperatures. This is one of the reasons that these mites are such large greenhouse pests. In the
artificial environment of a warm lighted greenhouse or indoor grow space, the mites are able to reproduce quickly and
to be active throughout most or all of the year.
Integrated Pest Management:
We prefer a more holistic / organic method of controlling spider mites (or any pests for that matter). Predators, Neem
Oil, Azatrol, and organic sprays used in conjunction with each other is just as effective and less caustic to the enviornment
and to your prized plants. Lower temperatures will also help. The ideal temperature for Spider Mites to
thrive is 80 deg. F., so you will want to stay below this range if an infestation is found. It is also very important to
keep the growing area clear of dead plant material. Dead leaves should be removed from growing areas as soon as
possible, as they often contain mite colonies and clusters of eggs. Leaves showing large amounts of mite damage
should also be removed as there are often large populations in these areas. Below we list a variety of management
methods. Please feel free to ask us questions about any of these or any other methods / products that you have heard
of and we will help you find the best solution to the problem. If all else fails we have also listed a harsher miticide
to kill these little buggers DEAD.
Preferred Methods of Treatment and Control:
- Azatrol
- Neem Oil (Cold Pressed)
- Predators
- Pest Out
- Pyrethrin Bombs or Sprays
- Forbid (or Avid + Hexagon or Floramite!)
Azatrol
Azatrol is OMRI listed and Organic. You can feel safe applying this onto your plants all the way through their lifecycle. It will
not affect taste, aroma, or color. It works on bugs such as mites, aphids, root aphids, thrips, fungus gnats, caterpillars, etc.
Apply Azatrol as Follows:
In the beginning Spray once and then again 4-5 days later. After control is established continue to spray every other week.
Make sur full coverage is achieved when spraying. Both the tops and bottoms of the leaves need to be thoroughly sprayed.
If you are spraying plants that are in the fruiting stage and indoors, you need to worry about mold. Outside, mold is less of a
problem for plants because the plants dry out quicker. (When spraying indoors it is recommended to use a wetting agent,
such as Coco-Wet. We also recommend turning the lights off for a 3 hour period during your plants day time photoperiod, and
turning on all fans to facilitate them drying out.) You can spray up to the first 4 weeks into the fruiting/flowering stage, after
which you must take extreme precautions to avoid mold.
Quart size foliar application: In a quart, mix 3 tsp. of Azatrol and a few drops of wetting agent with distilled or RO water. Shake
and apply. Wait 5 days and reapply by increasing dose to 4.5 tsp of Azatrol with wetting agent and water. If spraying indoors,
we recommend raising the lights or spraying while the lights are off (for at least a 3 hour period.) Outdoors spray either early
in the morning or at dusk. For best results use within 24 hours.
Gallon size foliar application: In a gallon, mix 2 oz of Azatrol + a wetting agent with RO water. Shake and apply. Wait 4-5
days and then re-apply with 3 oz per Gallon + a wetting agent with RO water. If spraying indoors we recommend raising the
lights or spraying while the lights are off (For at least a 3 hour period.) Outdoors, spray either early in the morning or at dusk.
For best results use within 24 hours.
Please see separate Info Sheet on â??Azatrolâ?� for more instructions and information on this amazing Pesticide.
Neem Oil
Neem oil contains steroids (campesterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol) and a plethora of triterpenoids of which Azadirachtin is
the most well known and studied. Neem Oil is another all-organic way to deal with Mites and almost any other bug infestation
out there. It is best used as a preventative, meaning that you should apply it before the problem begins as opposed to
after it is already there. Make sure to purchase â??cold-pressedâ?� Neem products such as Einstein Oil. Cold Pressed Neem Oils
contain a much higher concentration of the active compunds which repel and retard pests in your garden.) Mix neem oil with
a wetting agent (such as Coco-Wet) to thin out the spray and cause it to adhere to the leaves better. Spray every three days,
starting with the lowest concentration listed on the bottle and increasing the concentration every 3 days untill the highest concentration
is reached; at which point continue to spray at the highest concentration - every 3 days. Soon you will see a dark
leaf sheen or waxy coating develop on the leaves. This is a good thing. Neem will not hurt plants, it will only hurt the bugs.
Predators
Spider Mite Predators not only feed on Spider Mites and their eggs, they also breed twice as fast. Each Spider Mite Predator
sucks the juice out of about 5 Spider Mites a day, or 20 of their eggs. Used as directed, predators should noticeably begin to
gain control within 4 weeks and then continue until the Spider Mites are nearly or completely wiped out. Predators disappear
when the Spider Mites are gone.
SpiderMite Predator Types and Attributes:
Wide Temp Range, Moderate Humidity:
Phytoseiulus persimilis
Temperature Range: 55 - 105+ F. Humidity Range: 55 - 90%
Moderate Temp Range, High Humidity:
Neoseiulus californicus
Temperature Range: 55 - 90 F. Humidity Range: 60 - 90%
Widest Humidity and Temp Range:
Mesoseiulus longipes
Temperature Range: 55 - 105+ F. Humidity Range: 45 - 90%
Spider Mite Predators can be purchased as either a â??Triple Threatâ?� which includes all three species listed above, or as individual packages.
Make sure to get enough Predators to kill your infestation. Please consult with us to find out how many Predators that will be!
Predators (cont.)
Mite Destroyers eat all stages of Spider Mites, and find new infestation sites on their own by flying. But, it takes 4-6 weeks
to really get these guys going, so use Predator Mites as well for more immediate control and for cleaning up small "trouble
spots". Life cycle takes 18 days at 70 F. 100 Spider Mite Destroyers gets a colony started.
Other Predators include Lacewings and Pirate Bugs (Pirate Bugs are great at eating up Thrips! too.)
Also Note: If using Predators make sure to stop spraying any pesticide before application begins. (Every pesticide has a
specific amount of time before it is rendered ineffective. Make sure to wait that amount of time.) (You can also spray water
on the leaves for a few applicaitons before applying predators to â??washâ?� off any residual pesticides.)
Pyrethrin Bombs and Sprays
Our least favorite way to deal with Mites. Pyrethrin bombs are good for getting an infested room between crops to help â??sterlize
the enviornment.â?� They can cause burning on plants (especially if too much is applied.) Make sure to turn off the lights
when letting off a bomb. it is a good idea to raise them as well so that the next day when the lights come back on you will
lessen the chance of burning occuring. Pyrethrin lasts for 24 hours before it degrades to 1/2 of its original amount. It is
derived from crysanthanum flowers and generally has a low toxicity for humans. That being said, we still think you should
spray with a mask and gloves. Also note: Pyrethrins act only as a miticide and NOT an ovicide (they do not kill the eggs.)
You should always follow up one spray or â??Bombingâ?� with another 3 days after the first to kill newly hatched mites before
they mate again. As far as â??bombsâ?� go, Doktor Doom is softer on plants and should be used for mid-cycle applications. The
Pyrethrum TR â??Total Releaseâ?� Fogger is good for sterilizing the space in between crops.
Donâ??t Bug Me
Donâ??t Bug Me® is a fast, effective solution for most common garden pests. Because its active ingredient is Pyrethrum, which
is derived from chrysanthemum flowers, it can be applied up to the day of harvest on any fruit or vegetable. Donâ??t Bug Me®
kills aphids, whitefly, and other insects on contact by damaging their nervous systems, and even at lower levels it will keep
pests away. Best of all, Donâ??t Bug Me® breaks down quickly and does not persist in the environment.
Application of Donâ??t Bug Me
Dilute the RTU formula in the Spray Bottle by 50% with Purified Water. Save the remaining 50% of Donâ??t Bug Me Spray
for future use. Used in this way, you will not get any â??burningâ?� and you will get 2 bottles worth of RTU Spray.
Forbid (or Avid + Hexagon) (or previously FloraMite)
Forbid is a very serious mitacide that should not be treated lightly. If nothing else is working than this will. We prefer the
organic methods listed above in an overall integrated pest management program. But, sometimes you have to call in the
â??BIG GUNS.â?� We will not discuss Avid + Hexagon (Avid is the mitacide - Hexagon is the Ovacide - together they kill all.)
Forbid is the new killer on the block (1/8th - 1/4tsp./Gal). Forbid is our preference (newer and better killer), if a spray of
this calibur is needed. It is both a mitacide as well as a ovacide. (It will kill both the mites and their eggs.) Forbid is such
a specific killer that it will not kill any other bugs. . .In fact it will not even kill Predator Mites. Furthermore it will go through
the leaves from the top of the leaves to the bottom. Forbid has a 20 day residual lasting power. Only spray Forbid in the
Vegetative phase. When spraying make sure to follow these rules:
1. Use a pesticide Respirator. 2. Wear fluid proof gloves. 3. Wear long sleaves and pants and take off and wash as soon
as application is finished. 4. Wear eye protection.
Application of Forbid:
Into a 1 Gallon container mix 1/8 to 1/4 tsp of Forbid. Shake until homogenous. Next add enough drops of Indicate solution
(the pink stuff) to make the solution turn pink throughout. Pour solution into sprayer.
Other Methods of Control
Populations can also be reduced by spraying the underside of the leaves with a jet of water to break up the webs
and wash the mites off. Soap sprays are also very effective at controlling spider mites. Lower temperatures will
help. The ideal temperature for Spider Mites is 80 deg. F. It is also very important to keep the growing area
clear of dead plant material. Dead leaves should be removed from growing areas as soon as possible, as they
often contain mite colonies and clusters of eggs. Leaves showing large amounts of mite damage should also be
removed as there are often large populations in these areas.

try this link if the thread is abit fustrating due to no paragraphs

http://www.igrowhydro.com/InfoSheets...iteControl.pdf

and im also going to keep my humidty up and keep the intake flowing while lights are out to iritate the lil shits and make them uncomfortable

a little more research and this forum is helpful indeed

no pest strips, predatory mites?

I bought a big bottle of Floramite SC not relizing I need so little, 1oz makes 20 gallons of spray/dip.

I was hit hard with mites, tried lady bugs and premixed sprays without a dent.

I'd prefer non chemical, so I descided to used this, its out of the plants within 28 days.

Use it once them to knock the crap out of them and start over. Now I use, Neem oil and ladysbugs as preventive. I've been good now.

This stuff is the nuclear bomb for mites, and its easy on the plant!

I have 1oz bottles up for grabs 17$ , feel free to PM me
Local Garden shops sell 1oz bottles for 40$

I don't have a mite problem, but just in case, I sent off an e-mail for a sample of a product I saw on the internet, and discussed with the grow shop tech. Its called SNS-217, by Sierra Natural Science. I just got two 4 oz bottles of their ready to use SNS-217 for mites, and SNS-244 for Fungus control.

The pamphlet says say good-bye to spider mites, Laboratory tested, Food safe Kills Mites and Eggs. SNS-244 works with mold and mildew. And I did get hit with both of those outdoors.

Check their web site and get your free samples. Can't go wrong with free samples, and for me with only a few plants these will go a long way. :thumbsup:

I know it's way too late but in case anyone else comes here looking for answers; I don't know if this would work but I'm thinking maybe some dry ice in water? it should create a high CO2 level and a anoxic atmosphere for the mites and possibly kill them. Also, if anyone experiments with this idea, remeber not to leave the dry ice in there too long as temps are going to drop and you will kill the mites and freeze your plants too.

I know this is a stupid question but what the hell...do you use the no pest strip like normal, hanging it in a corner and just closing windows. that is fine for indoor, but outdoor? lay it on soil remove before watering??? would love to use this because I hate the little buggers...and have found most remedies just knock em back some but does't eradicate the basterds...

...thanks in advance for y'alls wisdom!