Help! week five starting to yellow

hi Guys I am in week 5 flower and all my plants are starting to yellow!

sunshine soil mix beds
advanced nutrients 2+ program moderatly light
PH is usually around 6.3
sorry i don't know ph run off

It would help if you got a pic of the whole plant...
Also fill out the troubleshooting form.

Get your runoff numbers, because with nothing but those 2 leaves to go by, it looks like your pH has dropped, and you are overfertilizing or there is residue built up in the soil. What's the hardness of your tap water?

Thanks for the response stinky here is the form and a few pics

L=SunshineMix
D=automatic drip system into soil
E= EVERYONE needs to answer lol!


E-indoor
E-soil
CSL-Sunshine #4
HCL=soilless system type
SCL-lime, Calcium peroxide, worm castings
SCLR-Soil or slab runoff pH = 5.9 (ppm of the run off was 1700)
E-Water source= tap then bubbling for 24 hours
E-Source water pH = 6.3
E-5 weeks
E-Type of fertilizer = Advanced nutrients 2+ moderatly light
E-Rate of application (if hydro, this is your PPM number, preferably after each component is added)
E-Lighting source= 1000 watt hortalux and 26 inches
E-Air temperature = 85 day 80 night
HD-Reservoir temperature = ?
E-Air % Relative humidity= 75%
E-Lighting schedule = 12/12
E-Type of ventilation your room has= vents when lights are off
TR-Did you pre-soak your media in pH corrected solution? = no

stinky are you there I need your help urgently!

Just my :twocents: but 1700 ppm might be a tad high...that might be your issue...

Also, a lot of the experienced cultivators here will say that yellowing of the leaves is common during flower due to the nitrogen use.

If you're still worried and want to do some work for yourself, check out this link
Nutrient Disorders in Marijuana Cannabis Plants

Runoff pH way too low for soilless. Flush at pH7, bring runoff to 6.5, then feed with HALF strength nutes at pH 6.6 or so.
Sunshine is peat-based; if you have not repotted in the last 4-6 weeks that is a likely culprit.
Also you are very badly burned. The flush will fix that. Isntructions at top of problems section.
I have seen a lot of problems with people running AN recently. It's one of those systems that is easy to run too 'hot'; your high temps are contributing to the severity of the fertilizer burn you are seeing.

Flush out the unused fert salts, and raise the pH. Also you NEED to get more ventilation in there- you have to run fans in daytime too!!! And RH% @75 = botyris in no time. Get it down to less than 55%rh

Thanks for the help i realy appresiate it.
But I have an issue with the flushing part I built my beds right on the ground becase of height constraints and they have no drains so in other words I cannot flush. Is there any other way of dealing with the access nutes in the soil.


Thanks again
Touchdown

No.
Next time, build drains.
When you are feeding that heavily, you have to flush before harvest or your buds will taste chemmy.
From now until harvest, you have a dilemma. You can give only water adjusted to pH 6.8, or you can keep feeding bloom ferts at a weaker level. Ferts with no drainage is going to contribute to burn, but water won't give extra bud mass. I'd go with water and a MINIMAL amount of bloom fert this week, and then nothing but water until harvest after that.

Just out of curiosity, how did you get a runoff ph/ec number if you can't flush?

Whooooaaa... no way to flush your plants... daaayuuum. That is a complete necessity especially since plants need to be flush to clear out any plant waste and salt buildup. Definitely make drain holes or something that will allow you to flush out your soil at least a couple times a month.

Stinky,
I got the runoff numbers by taking three different soil samples from different areas then putting them in baggies adding the 6.3PH water then draining the water and testing it. I Also cut a square in the soil around one of the girls and placed the entire thing in a pot then tested that runoff.

I have had someone helping me out lately and I found out that he did not add enough lime to the soil ahead of time and had not been PH ing any of the water or food so I am going to assume that was the problem.

thanks again Stink



As for SAP420's "daaayuuum" comment you are very wrong I have used this system for many years now No flushing it is good tool to have in case you shit the bed like I have this time but defiantly not a necessity. I don't even change my soil although I will have to this time. To back my point up I have been producing 2per for a long as long as I have had this set up and have done even better on more that one occasions with out flushing. FYI the last week I use a flushing additive and only give water and it gets rid of the chemmy taste.

Not enough lime? That explains your pH drop. Peat has a natural pH around 5. Most soils and soilless mixes from the store are mostly peat. Therefore, lime in a bed grow is important.

woo hoo I just learned a bunch of great stuff from reeding this thread.
so thanks a lot.:thumbsup::D

Your leaves are the poster child for phosphorus deficiency during the flowering stages. I think i'm having that same problem but in the veging. I think my nutrients are a little lacking:(.

"Solution to fixing a Phosphorus deficiency
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you have a phosphorus deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5.Again Peters all purpose 20-20-20 is a good mix. Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus supplements are: Bone meal, which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where bone/blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which is fast absorption, Worm castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption, Soft Rock Phosphate, which is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption. Crabshell, which is slow absorption. Tiger Bloom , which is fast absorption."

There's a serious difference between a straight deficiency and a P lockout due to pH imbalance... his is the latter... a poster child for it.