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i bought a bouch of shit a wile ago and decided to hook it up and its nothing but a big problem
WHAT AM I DOING WRONG?
i got a 6'' cool tube
6'' inline fan 424cfm
its exhausts to out side
but the temp after only 30mins runnin is at 94.2F
thanks for any input
btw its hooked up to a 600w hps on a digital bal
Put the Exhaust right at the end of the cooltube. and then let the ducting run out.
connect the fan directly to the cooltube and let that exhaust?Quote:
Originally Posted by anbesol
btw ive been letting it run since thae last post and its at 98.4f
Those bends are greatly reducing the airflow. I can't tell completely, but at one point it looks like the flex duct is corkscrewed. :stoned:
The path of least resistance is a straight line. Try to get it as close to that as possible. :thumbsup:
Also, never underestimate (as I did) the radiant heat that your fan will produce. It is designed to cool areas, but the motor will throw off some toasty-ness that could raise temps.
Hope that helped. :thumbsup:
This has tasty bits of info too:
http://boards.cannabis.com/indoor-gr...-progress.html
yea theres a corkscrew in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMetal1
the problem is im working with lsmall space 4X3X7 so i cant put a direct un bended line to the cool tube, i can get rid of the corkscrew by just rearanging a little but im still going to have some bends in there (no way around it.)
would switching air low direction make a difference? like instead of blowing air into the cool tube, sucking the air out of the cool tube?
thanks for the info
Yes you definitely want to be pulling the air out and not pushing it through the light.
How tall is your space? It looks like you could connect the light directly to the fan where you have it now? If you are worried about light not being close to the plants------- if needed you could put adjustable shelving in for your plants?
This could solve all of your problems...
should have read this,,, but yes forget about that ducting connect it directly and put shelving in if you need it.Quote:
Originally Posted by OLDJIMMYBONES
1964 is right SUCK don't BLOW . :D
Where's the ballast at ?
Bottom of the cabinet where I see the cord running ?
No sharp bends in the poo poo flexduct - It reduces airflow huge .
You might possibly need a bigger cabinet too if you can't get ducting straightened out .
Peace
Crispi :stoned:
well i cant use a shelf because i got a 20gal? (15-25 not sure) aeroponic tank that will be too heavy at 8lb per gal = 200lb + tank and plants 10lbs? 220lbs
and i cant hook it up directly where it was because there not enough room to connect the ducting going outside.
the ballest is attached to the wall (pic)
i took it apart a little trying to figure out somthing but nothing so far.
much thanks for everyones input
im trying to keep this nice and compact so i can close the closet door and becides the exhaust coming out its reasonably discreet
Get the hot ballast outside the cabinet , find a way to straighten up the ductwork a lil and you might be ok.
Crispi :stoned:
ok, i tossed the ballast and strightened the lines up best i could, but i have a quick question. should i just leave one end of the cool tube open to suck in air?
im goving it a run rite now so i see how low i can get the temp
thats how i have mine with no problems, but i have mine sucking out hot air and blowing through the scrubber. especially on a small cab. ventilation, smell, and heat can all be controlled by 1 fan. your good 6"Quote:
Originally Posted by OLDJIMMYBONES
well the temp seems to have toped off at 92.4F.
its getting better
thanks for everyones help
Damn JB ,
Those new fangled digi ballasts really do run cooler . I thought you'd get more drop than that for sure .
Even if you do get temps right in it - if you do get 6 good clones / plants in that hydro sys . that cabinets gonna explode about 1/2 way through bloom . :D Reapers got a 400hps in a cabinet about your size and he has a hard time cramming 2 plants in his . How much veg. time in your past grows ?
Crispi :stoned:
1) Have everything possible outside your grow area. Ballasts and fans make heat.
2) Pull your air over your light instead of pushing. If your light isn't completely sealed the fan will push hot air out into your grow instead of sucking hot air out of your grow and pushing it outside.
3) Have a dedicated intake and exhaust just for the light and another for the grow.
4) Intake close to the floor and exhaust near the ceiling, since warm air rises.
5) Get rid of as many bends, elbows or T's as possible, and get rid of as much of that cheapo coiled dryer ducting as possible. Both drastically reduce air flow. You should be using real duct, available in 4 foot lengths at most home improvement stores. The only time you should be using the flexible stuff is when the ducts are attached to something that might need to be moved, like a light.
6) I don't know how they get away with it, but the cheaper fans do not move the CFMs that they are advertised to. I've heard of one good fan outsucking two of the cheaper ones with supposed same CFMs. I like CanFan and Vortex. Vortex is the only brand in a grow op that will guarantee something for 10 years.
92.4 is not good. Transpiration can slow or stop above leaf temps of 80, which means the temp at the canopy should be 82 or less.
the ballasts runs prity cool but it has a built in fan so, it exhaust the a lot heat maby? but its cool to the touchQuote:
Originally Posted by xcrispi
i veg for about 6 weeks,but this time i switched from ww (they almost double in size in flowerin) to nrv power plant
^^good list from Opie. Cheaper fans are less tolerant of increased resistance from shit like bends in the line and turbulence. I also like CanFan.Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie Yutts
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the longer your run of exposed ducting in the space, the more surface area there is to RETURN the heat to the room through the thin uninsulated walls of the flexiduct.
Short, straight ductwork, suck don't blow, make sure the ROOM is exhausting too (if you only have one fan, leave the 'intake' end of the cooltube open to the room to serve as exhaust port too), insulate ductwork if you still have a lot of it exposed.
yea opie knows what it is..
but thanks everyone i got it down to a steady 84.7F so far so hopfully with a little more work i get get it at 80ish
Good idea, which reminds me: you can also buy insulating light blankets that are supposed to help a bunch with heat. It just might make the difference of that 3 degrees to the perfect temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkyattic
Thanks Oldjim. 84.7 aint too shabby though. Your leaves are probably about 82 and still transpiring pretty well. I might just try leaving it alone for a grow, unless you've got time, money and desire to make things "just right".Quote:
Originally Posted by OLDJIMMYBONES
well the money.... not really, but the time...... i got tunsQuote:
Originally Posted by Opie Yutts
i got a little better 82.5 (fliping between 82.4 & 82.5) steady just waiting for the seeds to germ (and i gotta get a ppm meter) and im going to give it a shot
maby it went down because i just filled the tank with water and thats having an effect?..