JUST use HPS through the Vegetative and Flowering stages???

I would like a good solid debate as to why "we" (as in most growers) use Medal Halide apposed to High Pressure Sodium during the vegetative state.

I have seen very nice looking plants that have been grown solely on a HPS Globe. Some people will say "well if it had been a MH globe, it would have been WAY BETTER" but I don't know if I am completely sold...

I also heard that if HPS is used during Veg growth that the plant stretches and is lanky. This makes no since... Because the reason a plan stretches is to get closer to (or enough) light when a HPS clearly out powers a HPS by nearly 200% (Lumens)

That being said, is the bluish spectrum the ONLY reason you should use a MH vs. HPS during the Veg stage?

Seems to me that one should use HPS only and put a blue gel over the hood.... What do you think?????:question:

I believe the MH spectrum is actually better.

However, the HPS bulb lasts twice as long and tends to be cheaper(? <--)

My grow was a mostly HPS only grow, check it out in my sig!

Veggin under HPS is using a lot of hydro that is not required.
Why push 400W or more when 4 x 24W CFL's will do the same thing.

DO NOT QUOTE ME, this is my theory, if the plant sees the hps it thinks OMG IM LATE and starts growin ilke a motherfucker long and skinny because its the spectrum of late summer fall, while mh are like spring lights so the plant is content and grows nice and bushy :):rasta:

Interestingly enough, stinkybudz has a good point. Plants are quite sensitive to conditions that replicate seasonal changes in day length, and it stands to reason that light type and angle should play into that.
The clear blue spectrum light of a MH is what the plant needs when it is vegging. Lumens in the wrong spectrum are wasted lumens. You can get plenty of blue lumens from flourescents too, and if you plan to flower with a small HPS (under 600w), it makes more sense to veg under flouros, or a REALLY small MH (250w). Keep the equivalent watts ratio at 1:3 veg:flower.

so wait stinky am i gonna have a problem if im using a 400w mh for veg and plan on using 400w hps for flowering?

No, not a problem at all; it is simply that your use of electricity is most efficient at the 1:3 ratio. If you haven't purchased your flowering system yet, consider a larger light if space allows, or put BOTH your MH and HPS in the flower room. You can stuff up to 1200 watts in there and get the benefit of all that light. Again, your limiting factor is likely to be your ability to exhaust heat from a confined area.

well im in a closet and as i do have 2 bulbs they both go to the same light and im kinda low budget and cant really afford another right now but i will be getting one later, another quick question, where can i find this neem you talk about to kill pests because i bought this organic pest killer from home depot for use with veggies and fruit and it doesnt seem to be keeping them away too well and just wondering if it matters if u transplant during the light or dark period of veg sorry to kinda hijack the thread i have a lot of questions, ill start my own thread with my grow room once my seedlings grow more and i get some cloans off of my lady :) shes looking soooo good tho , and by the way we live in the same state ;)

Cool. I'm in the end with the trees. :D Both kinds!

Okay, in a closet, don't try to add more light unless you can add more ventilation.
That stuff from home depot- is it called 'fungicide 3'? That is neem oil. It is not going to KILL pests, but it stops them from feeding and breeding.
Transplant during the light period so you can see your plants. Unless you own night vision goggles; in that case go right ahead.

its called insecticidal soap it says the active ingredients are potassium salts of fatty acids 1% and other ingredients 99% but doesnt list the others it kinda is making me mad, and are there any transplanting guides around? i have already moved this plant through 2 transplants but im just wondering how careful i have to be because im gonna transplant it again today but i want to make sure that the roots are doing well without disturbing them

That's Safer Soap.
There should be a transplanting instruction linked in my signature somewhere, and also in the donkey dick grow log. Also check the FAQs.

what about the hps's with built in excess blue spectrum? I personally i feel HPS is most likely more efficient but i never tested so i wouldnt know.

That should minimize stretch at the start of flower. It's not necessary, but if you run a SOG-type setup, or have limited overhead room, it's something to look into. You can also leave your plants under their veg lights, but switch the timer to 12/12 for the first 2 weeks of flower, and THEN put the HPS in there, to do the same thing.

If anyone reads high times then you would know how to keep the fruitflies and pests away. those two things you need are 1. a bag of water(if you have a serious fly problem) placed on the outside of the grow room and/or area or use cooler climate control settings. 2. the PESTs use a high scouville count of peppers I would recommend the Red Savina pepper or just a habanero pepper crushed(only works with soil, ponic systems try at your own risk roots hate the acidity) sprinkled around the potting soil surface and/or the floor if you have ant problems.... also bleaching cracks and using comet along floorboards and what not(bug entrances). Peppers are the best for most insects especially those annoying vegie spiders. ALWAYS use reverse omosis water and a CO2 tank turn medium sized shrub clones into 16 foot trees :D should of seen the ak47 clone i had :D the cops were amazed that I was doing aeroponics in a bussing bucket from IHOP and a turkey batterpump as me as the engene :D It took two of them pigs to carry the plant under their arms and down the stairs rule number one of growing MAKE SURE YOU ARE SINGLE bitches will ruin it.
HPS with tons of tinfoil and/or mirror. light spectrum isnt a biggie as long as the lumens are refracting and the plants lower branches are getting blaired with light from underneath that plant should be 9 leaved before the veggie state. here is a trick to using HPS effeciently. lower lights to the top use an osolation fan on HIGH about 1-2 feet away pointed UP at the light. cause heat rises :P push the heat away from the plant and u can literally be half an inch from leaves with HPS and dont forget to run an oxygen hose from the CO2 tank and tie it to the back on the bottom of the fan guard. This will help the plant not stress so much and a plant loves moving everyso furiously in the wind (this promotes strong roots shoot and stalk) start em young or the plant will fall over it will grow leaning and then during flowering it will topple over :(
you will need to raise the light when the stalk is thick then you can work on making it tall when it has the strength to be awesome. A good sign is when the sproutling starts growing into the wind.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stinkyattic

Cool. I'm in the end with the trees. :D Both kinds!

Okay, in a closet, don't try to add more light unless you can add more ventilation.
That stuff from home depot- is it called 'fungicide 3'? That is neem oil. It is not going to KILL pests, but it stops them from feeding and breeding.
Transplant during the light period so you can see your plants. Unless you own night vision goggles; in that case go right ahead.

---

try some lady bugs they love the pest, they can be purchased placese like green arrow nursery :stoned:

In my grow room I am running two 1000watt lights one HPS other MH. Ive been veging for 2 weeks and notice no difference in lighting. The plants that are directly under HPS and the plants directly under MH are all the same size and same amount of bushyness. My understanding is that the MH bulb came before HPS, what I mean is I belive that marijuana has been growing under MH and flowering under MH before HPS was invented. I never noticed mother nature changing her light just changing the amount of time of light.:stoned:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by medicatedman

In my grow room I am running two 1000watt lights one HPS other MH. Ive been veging for 2 weeks and notice no difference in lighting. The plants that are directly under HPS and the plants directly under MH are all the same size and same amount of bushyness. My understanding is that the MH bulb came before HPS, what I mean is I belive that marijuana has been growing under MH and flowering under MH before HPS was invented. I never noticed mother nature changing her light just changing the amount of time of light.:stoned:

---

wow are you kidding me about the different bulbs and your theory on why we use different bulbs through different stages of growth only because one came before another. welp hps does produce more of dense solid buds. maybe your hps and mh are close together or share the same hood? bsbsbsbsbsbsbsbsbs

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cigarettes42

wow are you kidding me about the different bulbs and your theory on why we use different bulbs through different stages of growth only because one came before another. welp hps does produce more of dense solid buds. maybe your hps and mh are close together or share the same hood? bsbsbsbsbsbsbsbsbs

---

no I am notkidding, what I am trying to say is that before HPS growers were flowering with MH bulb. and what I was saying about the difference I havent noticed any difference in veg from HPS and MH light. MY guess is that it must produce tigther buds, and before I start flowering I am going to change the MH for the HPS. If you read my comment I mention I had not notice any difference in veg stage. and what is bsbsbsbsbsbsbs.:stoned: