Can't get below 93 deg..........

Heres my setup.......

Closet - 48" H x 20"W x 20"D
Single Waterfarm w/ 6" airstone
6 x 42 watt CFL
Ducted 4" intake and exhaust
mylar covered walls ( mylar wrapped around styrofoam panels)
The room the closet is in is air conditioned down to 70 degrees

I have my temp gauge located about 4" under the lights.......Is that the wrong place????? I can't get the temp in the box any lower than 93 degrees and thats with the room down to 70 and the fans constantly going. What am I doing wrong? What additional measures could I take to cool the box down? :rastasmoke:

window unit ac

yes, but what would that matter? The room is at 70

If you've got your room at 70F you should be able to get your grow room a lot lower than 93F. Sounds like you've just not got enough circulation going through the closet, Is your exhaust at the top of the closet, intake at the bottom? How's the fan setup, sucking the hot air out the cab with passive intake? Take it your exhaust is 4", how big's your intake, that should be double the size of your exhaust or two intakes both the same size as the exhaust.

A fan in the closet just to circulate a bit of air will help prevent any hotspots that might be building up around your lights.

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Originally Posted by fireman25

yes, but what would that matter? The room is at 70

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sorry. hers my setup in a hand mad drawing(im ghetto) :rastasmoke:

hook ducting to ur a/c(get creative and take a trip to hopmedepot) run it to ur closet and hook an 8" duct fan to it(if u use smaller ducting or a lower powered fan ur A/C will freeze up. not enouf cold air able to flow thru ya kno bro!)

now all that air is being concentrated to ur gro room!!! i bet ur sitten there all cold and shit. hahah bro i did the same thing! good luck

im getting a digi camera soon so ill be able to show u better. whoops 4got the pic here it is!

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Originally Posted by hudson88

If you've got your room at 70F you should be able to get your grow room a lot lower than 93F. Sounds like you've just not got enough circulation going through the closet, Is your exhaust at the top of the closet, intake at the bottom? How's the fan setup, sucking the hot air out the cab with passive intake? Take it your exhaust is 4", how big's your intake, that should be double the size of your exhaust or two intakes both the same size as the exhaust.

A fan in the closet just to circulate a bit of air will help prevent any hotspots that might be building up around your lights.

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no no no(bops on head) i kno what hes talken bout


(to OP)i got u covered buddy. ask me anything. pm me whenever! :rastasmoke::rastasmoke:

Your Temp gauge is under the lamp you said 4"?

If so that is not the room temp that is the temop under the lamp!!!

I would put the temp gauge above the lamp to get a more accurate reading..

Good Luck GL

If it was 93" I think that plant would not be happy @ all...

How do they look-Happy or Bad?

where are your intake holes?
passive(hole) or active(fan)

What CFM rating is your fan?
Is the fan sucking the air out or blowing the air in?

What is the temperature at the floor of the space?
your thermometer may be measuring radiant heat.

Is there a fan inside the closet?


You gotta get the air moving...

both the intake and exhaust are 4" and they are rated at 80cfm There is not an additional fans in the closet. I thought the thermometer was supposed to be close to the plants.....should it be above the lights......? I'd rather not add more to the closet.....second intake fan, third fan in the box, etc..... Is there a way to change my current config so that it works right? What if I take my intake ....move it from the bottom of the closet and put it at the top and use it as a second exhaust, or will I still need a fan in the closet to move air around? As far as how to the plants look.....Haven't got to that step yet. I want to keep testing the grow box to make it right before actually starting.......getting very impatient.

.....temps ABOVE lights is 87.6F temps UNDER lights 93.0F

Temp gauge should be located at the hieght of the tops of the ladies because this will measure your combined interior oscillating fan temp with your light temp at the plants canopy and thisis where it matters most. Right under your light it could be 100 and then the tops of your ladies be 75. Depending on how many CFM's you are moving through your box just keep an eye on humidity because mold will ruin your WHOLE crop!:smokin:

Like signman says measure temps at the tops of the plants (or where they're going to be in your case, 4" is about right as you're using cfl's)

If i'm understanding you correctly you're using 2 fans, one for getting the heat out of the cab and one for getting fresh air into the cab? If thats the case, i'd use both fans for drawing the hot air out and make some more holes to be used as passive intake. This way you'll double the amount of air circulation and i'm willing to bet you'll solve your temp problems ;)

e2a you might be able to get away with just adding a passive intake by adding another 4" hole at the bottom

So with two 4" active exhaust and ONE 4" passive intake hole I should be good? Will I still need a fan in the box?

two x 4" active exhaust but more passive intake, ideally it should be double the size of your exhaust, so 4 x 4" holes or 2 x 8" holes, but you can prob get away with a little less.

I edited the last post to say try just adding another 4" passive intake or removing your intake fan and making the hole 8" see how your temps are and add the fan back as an additional exhaust and more intake if needed.

e2a - as for a fan in the box, it does help to have one in to reduce any hotspots, reduce chances of mold , stengthen stems etc

dude when i get pics of my shit u will kno what 2 do.

all this other stuff is....well....there only so much a fan can do!

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Originally Posted by Hennessy1414

dude when i get pics of my shit u will kno what 2 do.

all this other stuff is....well....there only so much a fan can do!

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I'm sorry i disagree, if he's venting to and from a room with a temp of 70F there's no reason why the extra circulation he'll be given by rearranging his setup won't get his temps within an acceptable range.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hudson88

I'm sorry i disagree, if he's venting to and from a room with a temp of 70F there's no reason why the extra circulation he'll be given by rearranging his setup won't get his temps within an acceptable range.

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dude trust me i experimented with all of what your talking about.(granted i have an hps) but still if he wants any real wattage with cfl's hell get more=it getting hotter. just dude u will have to see. i love when growers challenge other growers(not to be mean it just drives me to make the perfect set!) It's truly the love of my life!
:rastasmoke:

Hennesy I can't wait to see your setup. I anxiously await....


What are the temps at the soil level?
What are the temps in the furthest corner from the lights?
What are the temps at the top of the canopy?

2 active exhaust is probably best with passive intake holes. Are your exhaust fans at the top of the box or the bottom?

The temps of the leaf surface needs to remain under 80 degrees for maximum growth. Anything over 80 on the leaf surface will slow photosynthesis (sp?) down greatly costing you in plant health and growth.

Buy yourself a small temp gun and see what your different surfaces are. Flat white reflects the lowest heat imo (80 degrees at surface vs 94 degreee heat reflecting off mylar) so losing the mylar will help.

If you want to end your issue and control the ODOR!!!!

SHUT DOWN YOUR INTAKE!!!!!!

I did a set up in NJ 8yrs ago for a buddy and it is still running strong in an ATTIC!!!! Does not get HOTTER then an ATTIC

Why be exhausting cool air to take in hot? Just exhaust!!!!


The room is still going now with out any issues and it is 90+ and humid there....

You don't need a intake with a closet That IMO!!! You are taking in air just by having a exhaust... Because you are pulling in the air from throughout your house hence limiting your ODOR because everything is out!!!!

Please just try it and let us know how you make out!!!!

Good Luck GL420:jointsmile::jointsmile::jointsmile:

Yeah.....i actually tried that at one point GL and cant say I had good success without an intake. Yep it pulled air from the rest of the house.....and when it ran out of that it started pulling air from the attic. HOT air.

NOT impressive OR very cooling.

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Originally Posted by Weedhound

Yeah.....i actually tried that at one point GL and cant say I had good success without an intake. Yep it pulled air from the rest of the house.....and when it ran out of that it started pulling air from the attic. HOT air.

NOT impressive OR very cooling.

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Hey WH whats going on stranger?:hippy:

Each situation is different but I would not rule it out in this instance. It is definitely worth a shot. All he has to do is shut down his intake and check it out in 1 HR.... He has nothing to loose and what does not work for some works for others...

this is a good point GL......not everyone's attic is the sauna ours is.

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Originally Posted by Weedhound

this is a good point GL......not everyone's attic is the sauna ours is.

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Originally Posted by GreenLeaf420

Please just try it and let us know how you make out!!!!

Good Luck GL420:jointsmile::jointsmile::jointsmile:

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WH You were doing a closet under the same conditions?
I did not think you were going to question my suggestion of shutting a intake switch for a Hr but OK....
Most important Does he have an Attic?
Does he have a Ridge vent in his Attic?
Does he have any Thermostatic fans up there?
What floor is he growing on?
The door to the room can not be shut?
The Attic can not be Sealed off?
Is the Attic finished with Bedrooms ( IN MY HOUSE IT IS)...

There are way to many variables to list.....

Lower the CFM's on the exhaust if necessary.

Circumstance Circumstance Circumstance.....
Variables variables variables
WH is there something wrong with me giving a suggestion:mad:? So you have tried it and it was not good for you? There is no way he can shut down his intake running a exhaust only to cool his room?

I'm just trying to help him the same way you tried to helped me when I went DWC. If it works great if not it did not kill his plants.:wtf: I have seen it work in the summer w/ Attics. My friend has a room that's intake and exhaust is just running into the same room next to the grow which is Cool... Cold air in Cold air out beautiful.

Good Luck GL420

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GreenLeaf420

If you want to end your issue and control the ODOR!!!!

SHUT DOWN YOUR INTAKE!!!!!!

I did a set up in NJ 8yrs ago for a buddy and it is still running strong in an ATTIC!!!! Does not get HOTTER then an ATTIC

Why be exhausting cool air to take in hot? Just exhaust!!!!


The room is still going now with out any issues and it is 90+ and humid there....

You don't need a intake with a closet That IMO!!! You are taking in air just by having a exhaust... Because you are pulling in the air from throughout your house hence limiting your ODOR because everything is out!!!!

Please just try it and let us know how you make out!!!!:

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just got another 4" duct fan and I'm going to use it as a second intake ( two 4" intakes.....One 4" exhaust....all 3 80 cfm) Before I go through all that though I'll try shutting the intake down and adding a small fan inside the box.

As far as my setup goes.....the closet/grow cabinet is in my bedroom that is cooled by an in window AC. I am venting out of the top of the box into my bedroom. room temps are around 70 at all times.

Nothing wrong with giving a suggestion......just that our attic is a lot hotter than 93 and it took me quite awhile (actually it took X-crispi lol) to make me realize that pulling hot air from the attic instead of cooling the light with intake from household air (which was quickly used up and got hotter) was not helping and was in fact making the issue worse. You're right that his situation could be different.

Ours was that with a 1kw light, central air, AND a window a/c we were not able to keep temps down to below the mid 80's.....unacceptable for optimum growing (remember the leaf surface temps?) in a 10 x 12 room. The answer was to completely seal off
the light source and the heat it threw. We use a cool tube and it works great.

I would lose the mylar and go with flat white paint. Mylar reflects light at approx 95 degrees off itself......flat white reflects the same light at the same distance at 80 degrees. I know. i've done AND TESTED both.

Mylar reflects approx 95% of light back.....flat white paint abou 80-85%. The cool temps are worth the trade off.

It will help....trust me. ;)

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Originally Posted by fireman25

just got another 4" duct fan and I'm going to use it as a second intake ( two 4" intakes.....One 4" exhaust....all 3 80 cfm) Before I go through all that though I'll try shutting the intake down and adding a small fan inside the box.

As far as my setup goes.....the closet/grow cabinet is in my bedroom that is cooled by an in window AC. I am venting out of the top of the box into my bedroom. room temps are around 70 at all times.

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What up FM25!!!

I have a few questions I hope you do not mind?
How are they eating?
How are your plants reacting now under current conditions?
When you shut down the intake how do the plants react?
If you were to run a intake being you are right in the room can you just run it off the A/C straight into the box?
Also I have never tried them but heard they work good the CO2 buckets. Some people knock them others swear by them!!!

Well hope is all well This is just IMHO by running all those CFM's of intake you are really going to stir up an ODOR..

This can be fixed their are good people looking out Peace Out GL420:jointsmile::jointsmile::jointsmile:

update........
I have added a second intake fan ( 2 intakes 80cfm each, one exhaust at 80cfm)....... added a small fan inside box ( to move air around) .......

temps are down to 84.2 deg 4" under the lights which is down 8.8 deg from the original temp of 93 deg.. The room has been at a steady 70 deg and the lights and fans have been on for 3 hours. Any other ideas on how I can cool this box down?

Also side note..... Just got seeds..... White Widow and Sour Diesel 5 of each. What is the wisest way to use these seeds when I can only grow one plant to harvest at a time? I was thinking about only germinating one seed at a time and going through each seed until i get a good looking plant....... wast of time?

This will be my first grow ever so I'm trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks. :rastasmoke:

i didnt read through them all sorry but... u think maybe the mylar
and Styrofoam maybe the problem considering they are used to
keep heat in

like for a body going into hypothermia or when u want to keep ur
beer cold in a cooler
i have like 8 - 48 watt cfls and mine doesn't go over 82

and its sounds like ur intake and outtakes are setup right after
what every one else has said

but hey thats just my 2 cents

That was the next thing I was going to try..... Just spent so much time on doing it ....... any other ideas or is that pretty much THE answer??

First off....this site is the sh*t. From all the advice and lots of moving things around my cab now stays under 78 deg at all times......THANK YOU. Now the fun begins. How do I start the seeds. I know what to do to make the seeds sprout and I know what to do once they are in the waterfarm but what do I do in the middle? Once the seed has germinated ( a few days between wet paper towels) what am I supposed to do then. Can I just put the seed in rockwool and place it in the waterfarm, then start watering with the drip ring? Do I need to let the seed grow for a few days/weeks before putting in waterfarm? Please help.....I've been struggling with this box and now that its ready I want some damn ganj. :rastasmoke:

since you are running about 250 watts of light i would upgrade to a 250 watt hps lighting with an aircooled hood.
temps, lumens, and light coverage should be alot more efficient

You should have popped them sooner.... But hey you have to start somewhere. So I would get a start in rockwall after they sprout up get a fan on them immediately.. Stink had said to leave the rock on top of the Hydrotone is better so just place it on top of the rock and drill XTRA holes in the red buckets.... Make sure you wash out the hydrotone w/ 1/2 grow solution for 24hrs or major PH issues.. I have a W/F thread on here somewere and if you want to see all the troubles that can be ran into you should read it Ill throw up a Link.... Do not Veg them to long because they grow like MF's...

Good Luck GL!

Here run through this will give you a crash course of all possible problems!!! Good Good Luck:jointsmile::jointsmile::jointsmile:

http://boards.cannabis.com/hydroponi...m-buckets.html

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Originally Posted by Weedhound

The temps of the leaf surface needs to remain under 80 degrees for maximum growth. Anything over 80 on the leaf surface will slow photosynthesis (sp?) down greatly costing you in plant health and growth.

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I'm sorry, but can you show me the science on that?

That would suggest that a) there is one universal ideal temperature for photosynthesis that applies to EVERY plant and every strain of cannabis regardless of where it naturally grew in the world and 2) that tropical plants, if transplanted to a more temperate environment, would grow even more prolifically than they do in the jungle.

There are lots of reasons for limiting temperatures. Bugs and some other biological pests thrive as the temperature rises. Humidity becomes harder to maintain, and drier air causes plants to lose more moisture through transpiration. But photosynthesis being inhibited over 80F? Perhaps you should come and explain this to my vegetable garden. Better yet, tell the WEEDS around my garden that if it is over 80, they should grow more slowly.

I know I am new to the whole cannabis thing and all, but this smells strongly of something pulled from someone's nether regions and then passed around.

Science has shown that TREES (deciduous) in North America, regardless of latitude, prefer their leaves to be around 21C (69F) for the ideal photosynthesis and they will regulate their internal systems to try and keep them at that temperature. Mangroves, on the other hand, demand temperatures of 35C (95F) for photosynthesis. There is a great deal of variation depending on the prevailing conditions where the plant evolved. Those that grew best in the dominant temperature range over the years reproduced and thrived. Those that couldn't cope with those temperatures exited the gene pool, stage left.

Over the course of researching this stuff, I found a project had been done that found that 90-95F was the ideal temperature for maximum photosynthesis for cannabis. However, other factors play a part for the home grower making controlling a temp at 95F problematic, and the study was done under controlled laboratory conditions, not in a broom closet.

Yes, try to keep your temperatures down and under control. But the reasons for doing so have nothing to do with photosynthesis... insects reproduce more rapidly at higher temps, for starters. Many plant diseases can be exacerbated if the weather is warm. Parasitic infections and some moulds, and fungi often move at an almost uncontrollable rate when the temperature is high. And, it is a lot easier to get a spike from 95F to 115F before you notice it than to get one from 80F to 115F which will definitely make your plants unhappy.

But, considering most strains of this plant grow insanely fast as temperatures rise outdoors in tropical places (Jamaica averages 82F with daytime highs well above that, yet the weed seems to grow just fine), it isn't photosynthesis that is the problem. Afghanistan is known for producing high-grade indica pot - and summer temperatures run around 38C - that's 100F.

Come on - let's be real here. Show me a controlled-conditions study that demonstrates that warmer temperatures inhibit photosynthesis in cannabis of any strain. I'm serious, I would like to see this information.