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yellow spots. a couple weeks old and have gotten a little worse. nutes at about 1/2 strength. ph=5.6 plants are 5 weeks and a day old. temps are high...around 90 during the day and 74 at night. running a 1000w hps with exhaust fan and portable a/c in room. need help. thanks in advance.
Try to get your temps down. The leaf edges are curling up and that means your plants are uncomfortably hot.
ya thats the prob. im tryin to find a decently priced 400w hps but until then they r gonna have to use sum sunscreen :cool: so you think the heat is a reason for the yellow spots?? i just got my feminized seeds in the mail so im about to flower these females to be (hopefully). i know its early but id rather flower early and see what sex they are, than to leave them vegging and they turn out to be males. thanks so much stinky. ive read so many of your posts in the past two months its ridiculous. so do you think those plants look pretty healthy??
Overall yeah. They look good. Instead of a HPS400, why don't you switch to an air-cooled hood, and get the ballast out of the room if you haven't already. As comparison, I've got 2000w in a 6x6x6 cube with air cooled hoods. You can get a lot of light in a little space if you run a high CFM blower, at least 200CFM, cooling your lights and exhausting that air out.
i think my hood is air cooled. All i have is an exhaust fan that sucks there hot air from the light and blows it out of the room. im not sure if thats a blower or what. im still a newb on that kinda stuff. what about the yellow spots? should i not worry about that right now
Check the pH of your medium (runoff; there's a sticky in problems about it that applies to dirt but has explanations) and make sure it's correct- 5.8-6.2 for hydro, 6.2-6.6 for soilless, 6.5-6.8 for dirt. That's important, and so is making sure that your medium isn't holding undesirable fertilizer residues.
But the heat will make all that stuff worse.
Can you get a picture of your hood and exhaust system? I have to step away from the 'pooter for a bit, but if you post up the setup, we can try to make it work more efficiently, and that could end up saving $$ in a/c too. Woo hoo!
im doing DWC. 2 gallon buckets with airstone in each. they sprouted in coconut fiber plugs which were placed in ph ready hydroton. the buckets stay at pH 5.6-5.8 check twice daily. there really is no ph runoff. im using 1/2 strength nutes right now. ive heard that gh 3part lack magnesium and to add a tsp epson salt but im scared to try it. im goin outta town tomorrow night so i dont wanna do anything that might fuckem up more while im gone. thanks for all your help :thumbsup: in thie pics...the ballast is kinda wac but i got it off craiglist pretty cheap. works fine. doesnt really put off too much heat. the blower (i guess it is) sucks air from the hood and blows it outside the room. im not sure if thats how it is suppose to work but its doin pretty good. and with all that the room heats up pretty good. when the a/c is on is goes down to 84-90 humidty at 45-55. night time temp is 76
Okey dokey I already see some things that could be tweaked.
First let's talk Magnesium. I don't know about the GH 3-part and its Mg problems, but I would hesitate to add Epsom salts to your res!!! You're right, that is kinda eek. If you like epsom salts as a means of Mg delivery, make a spray bottle up with 1/4 -1/2 teaspoon, a quart of water, and a drop of liquid dish soap, that you can lightly mist onto the leaves if you see Mg def signs, whcih look like distinct pale stripes between the veins. Not bright tan dead stripes though; that's something different. CalMAg Plus is also GREAT and if you look at the sticky in hydro called 'Latewood's Legacy', there is a great discussion of the GH 3 part as a grow tool.
Next your ballast! If you can get it up on a milk crate or at least a little off the floor, awesome. If you can put it OUTSIDE the grow area, awesomer. Ballasts give off a lot of heat.
The hood! Yup it is air cooled. So is the other end- the one we can't see in the pic- is that open to the room, or is your light on its own closed circuit and not exchanging air with the plants? Is there any way to make the curves in your ductwork smoother, or even straight? Turbulence within a duct will definitely cut into your total air flow! Do you know the CFM rating on your fan, and where is it in relation to the light, and to the exhaust ducting? A strong fan (100-300cfm) that is set to suck air through your exhaust is a must with a big light in a small space.
Gotta run, will check back later.
no it is open to the room. i just moved the ballast outside of the room. that light just gives off so much heat. the blower i have is pretty dam powerful. its definitly blowing hot air out of the room. im really not sure what else to do except get a small wattage light. and on the calmag ive been reading that u only need that with ro or distilled water. im using tap at about 120 ppm. im gonna make that spray you were talking about. and try it out. i guess ill just have to see if the plants flower well at this temp. they have been growing excellent so far so hopefully they keep it up.
from your picture it looks like the portable air conditioner is blasting away on your girls. I think that is the main the problem and if your temps stay at 90' during the whole flowering you are lucky they look so as good as they do. The portable ac will also lower humidity levels as well. Check the roots as well. Soggy plants sag.
Before changing your light I would try to straighten the run of your ductwork as much as you can, and make sure that your passive intake is at LEAST as large as your exhaust; preferably a bit larger. What does your intake look like? Is it big enough, and is it low in the room?
Another think to think about is CO2. Enriching your atmosphere and running a silica supplement will allow you to run safely at temps in the high 80s with even spikes into the low 90s. However, if your humidity is quite low, you may find your plants drying out too fast.
Try to solve the heat problem with ducting first, including making sure that there are no leaks in the run from the portable a/c to its exhaust point. One thing to consider is actually moving the AC outside the room too, and setting it up to cool the air at the intake point. Something like a small tent around where your intake is, that contains the a/c and CO2 if you have it, allowing for heat generated by the a/c unit itself to escape (yup! pumps make heat!), is one approach. I run my a/c in the 'lung' area right outside my flower chamber and it kicks on at temps over 75'F. This way I am assured that air ENTERING the room never does so at high temps, and has some wiggle room to get warmer before it is exhausted.
There are as many solutions to growroom problems as there are growers. Don't be afraid to get creative. Air flows easiest in straight lines, confined to smooth ducting. Heat rises. Moist air carries a great thermal load, and exhausting it smoothly is KEY. Plants tolerate higher temps when they have ample CO2 to the leaves, O2 to the roots, and plenty of water available as long as it does not block the O2 in the root zone. Within these basic rules, you can probably arrange something that works!
thank you so much stink for taking the time to help me out. so i ahve vented the exhaust through the attick. the portable a/c really cant be vented anywhere else. i would rather not even use that thing if i didnt have to. i think im goin to duct the a/c vent which is right outside the room, and lead it into the grow room. if i can get my hands on a cheap 600w hps im gonna get one. i dont want high temps with my babies about to start sprouting. this is just s trial run. would love to keep the 1000w but its almost impossible to keep temps down inthe conditions i have. i have it stable at aabout 88F. 50 humid. we will see how the next week plays out. but i still have those damn yellow splotches on about 5 or 6 leaves. i dont like that. plants look healthy otherwise. and ideas? thanks so much everyone!!
If you must get a smaller light all you need is the bulb. As long as the ballast is bigger than the bulb it will run nice.
My Bro runs a conversion 400MH for veg and a 600HPS to start 12/12 then a 1000HPS a few weeks later to finish. All on a 1000 watt HPS balast. I know one guy who got in a pinch from a blown light and got a 250HPS from slows. Saved his day.
Heat is what most have to over come. Hope you get it.
Remember the bigger the light the bigger the bud.
italian-
Stinky is steering you straight, but I will add a little. What you have there is a phosophorous deficiency. But doubling the recipe is not necessarily the answer in your case. Do you have an EC pen? If so I would like you to check your EC daily and tell us if it is rising, falling or staying about the same. With that heat you may be transpiring too much water and your nutes may be so high they are getting locked out.
But a P deficiency is kind of rare, unless something else is going on. With that heat, have you looked at the roots lately? You might be suffering from root rot blocking any nutrient uptake.
Finally, lets try and get a cover or something on that ballast. We are taking about life threatening electrocution hazard over there.
ballast is out of the room. my ppm stay about the same. i am going out of town so i just changed all the buckets to ph balanced water. 2nd day of flowering. the roots are gorgeous and plus ive been using cannazym to prevent root rot and help with nutrient uptake. the yellowing has kinda slowed. when i get back i will update you guys. thanks so much and have a great stoned 4th of july!!
I've just started viewing posts on this board, but I've been growing my own for a while, and I figured I'd put in my two cents.
You write that the day temp is around 90, that's too high for an indoor grow. You've got heat stress on your leaves. Phosphorus deficiency turns leaves purple, like this, Phosphorus Deficiency
What you need to do to cool the room is get the heat from the bulb out of the room. You've got to run that six inch tubing from the other side of the reflector, the side not in the pic, out of the growspace. The fact that it's summertime is probably your biggest problem. Indoor grows need good temp control.
ya man i got my temp down to 82 during the day so i think i should b ok. tha plants look great. im gonna hit them with a good dose of gh nutes and bloom fert. have pics up soon
That's not a marijuana plant in the picture. Phosphorus deficit in MJ looks differently. But anyway I'm just happy he's back on track.Quote:
Originally Posted by polishpollack
P def doesn't look much different. Not sure what you mean by that one, but my understanding is plant leaves, including mj turn purplish/bluish with perhaps other colors mixed in. Here's a quote from another grow site that describes the color.
"When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isnā??t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency."
If there isn't air blowing through that silver tube, put a fan on one end and blow air across the bulb, then get the hot air out of the grow space. You can get your temp a little lower, most likely, if you try. but don't worry about it too much, as long as the plant looks good, it may not be necessary. nice plant.
roger that. the plants look amazing. i hade all of them in ph balanced water and cannazyme for about 4 days. (transition from 18/6-12/12) the roots BLEW up!! two of the plants i mixed with 10ml micro, grow, and blloom/gallon and a tsp of cannazym/gallon. (im using 1 1/2 gallon buckets so 3 tsp each) i just wanted to make sure that the nutes werent too much for the plant so i didnt change all the buckets. in a week i will add my awesome blossom. im still a newb and testing the waters as i go. we are about 5 days into flower. ppms were kinda high. almost 1500.
....and some pics. almost 6 weeks old. :thumbsup: and the last pics is my northern bright babies!!!
After running the cannazyme if it was your first time, I'd do a res change soon. I have found it can free up more nutes than you would like in your res, and create a big unknown- how much did it add from the breakdown of dead cells? Those roots look very healthy though.
i do a res change religiously every week. i add less than what the cannazym bottle says. i only put 1 tsp per bucket. and i found a post on another site with a really good nute schedule. so i did 2 buckets with gh nute schedule....and 2 buckets with this other nute schedule (which actually calls for a lower dose of nutes) and we will see which one turns out best. room temp stays at about 84 day and 76 night. plants are loving life right now. when the women are happy im happy :jointsmile:
how long into flowering until you can tell male or female?? they have beeen under 12/12 for almost a week. they look amazing. i really hope i have atleast one female outta four!
You might not know until they start to show the sex structures and it becomes obvious.
At two weeks into flower you will be able to see.Quote:
Originally Posted by italian04
Those northern bright babies look insane! How old are they?
That one on the right has such a green and thick stalk... any particular genetics?
you might be looking at the wrong ones. the NB are the ones that just sprouted lol. hopefully they will have thick stalks as well. im not really sure what strain the big ones are.
well im bout to change all the buckets of my flowering plants. im adding my bloom fert and going to 0/8/16 ML/gal and im using 2 gallon buckets. im pretty excited. i bought panda film and i completely separated my flower section. it is enclosed and i bought one of those make a door zipper things that you can make a door out of a tarp. its pretty baddass and i stabalized the temp to about 81-81 during the day and 76 at night. thanks for all the help. i will have pics of my ladies here shortly.
this is the only one outta four that has the pods. i think this is male!! help plz so i can get it outta there!!
The picture is too blurry to tell, so I dont want to declare it male because it could just be you are talking about the swelling at the base of the stem which is normal plant anatomy. How many weeks is the plant? Wait two full weeks into flower you'll see it really clearly and you still will have a MINIMUM of 10 days before it produces pollen.
no its definitely not the swelling. its little pods forming on the side. do the pods and the hairs both come out from the same spot? or do the hais come directly out from the swelling?
Female plants don't grow pods or balls on themselves. I think I'd remove the plant. Perhaps you could remove one of the balls, take someplace safe, like outside, and cut it open to see if there's pollen. There probably will be.
Yes female plants develop like a single ball with white threads coming out that eventually gets bigger. If you see multiple balls all over and no white hairs, it's a male. But really don't worry, you have plenty of time before there will be a pollen threat.
so it ends up we had 3 males outta 4. we still have one beauty flowering...strain unknown. i have 4 sprouted northern brights in bubble buckets. and two k2 rooted clones. i will keep you updated on our one female.