spots on leaves and some damage

hello everyone,
wellfirst ill start with the story. four plants all mothers, two are are about same age from clone a haleys comet and a w.w. recently transplanted to 3 gal from 1 gal containers but long enough ago to show great growth so maybe 3 weeks out. the other two are a master kush and a gdp x ww cross of my own doing posibly male, its just starting to mature. shortky after tranplant them damn mites cane back so i sprayed them off and neemed them all, although the mk and gdp seemed to be uneffected.

then a couple things went wrong. the two transplanted shot out one day and got too close to the light and had some burn on the tops. fixed it . then afew days later i saw somthing similar on the lower growth, no way its burn from the lights. then i noticed thes brown spots. and today the mk has similar spots so its spreading scared it bacterial help please

indoor-soil-rockwool clones in soil now
-eb stone organic soil with mychorrhizal fungi, earthworm castings, kelp meal, bat guano, feather meal.
-added boost, grow, b1 red, magic cal,sugardaddy from techna flora he made for his soilless
cant test ph of soil only got paper strips
2 day tap
-Water pH 6.8 - 7.2 tap and ph down to 6 with feedings
-Age of plant 6-7months
-i dont add any ferts until i see color fade so i use soil as long as possible only the white widow got above feeding evrything else is good from the soil. and once on the h.c.

-mk and gdp 5 in. 100w mh, ww hc 5 in. 100w t5 and 150 hps
- about 82 constant very low humidity
-18/6 some light leaks though
- open closet, cetral a/c, and small fan.
- rock with phed soklution

sorry could admin please move post to problem section

help please

You can test soil pH with paper strips by doing a runoff test. There's instructions stickied at the top of the problems section.
Pics are blurry, but do you have thrips?
Do you let the soil dry out much between waterings?

tested ph twice came back between 6-7 closer to 6 though

i havent seen any bugs but then again it was my first response and i took them outside and sprayed them off and gave them a neem bath, but it only effected two strains which scared me that it night be bacterial or fungal or maybe i caught it before it got a chance to spead. the only other thing is maybe an mg def there was some slight curling upwards and i saw no leaf rollers and this would fit with the two of the same age the younger ones still have adequate amounts mg sorry thinking and typing

ilet the soil get atleast scond knuckle dry which is about 2 1/2 to 3 inches deep and theyre usually

Try checking soil dryness by lifting the pot- water if it feels light.
Between 6-7 is kind of too wide a range; if your pH is below 6.5 in soil you will definitely start to see lock-outs. Those pics are too blurry to get a good look; can you stabilize your camera on a tripod or something?

sorry camera phone i tried i cut a bad leaf off hope this will help

i havent gave nutes in about amonth and ahalf and my tap is phed at 7 after it sits out a day

You should be adjusting the pH after adding the nutrients.
That looks a lot like physical damage- bugs, moving the plants- the leaves look TORN more than anything.

yeah that was my first thought, wind damage, but theyre in a closet. they get these brown spots then start falling apart

i have good new growth not slow or anything but those start looking ugly also i cut all effected leaves off and the next day there were more

i think ill clone the next clean shoot jik I hope they get better

here are some pics i took today, they are the same leaf i took pics of in the first post last two pics im starting to think bacterial leaf blight cause the little grey spots turn brown then the leaf falls apart

can cannabis get leaf blight?

Looks a bit like potassium deficiency. K is very important to the plant's immune system function. Do you have a fertilizer with lots of K in it (last #)? Bloom ferts are a good place to look. Mix up a half strength solution of that with a drop of dish soap and do a foliar feed. Also check carefully on the leaves, including UNDER them, to see if there are any larvae on the top or webs and eggs on the bottom.

ive been looking for bugs to no avail. i wish i would find some (bugs)i dont want to lose my haleys comet strain im the only person i know who has it.

here is a good outline of my symptoms and its a def of tomato pepper bacterial leaf blight.

Infected tomato leaf has dark watersoaked circular spots which are about 3 mm in sizes but may become larger when the temperature is right. The spots become angular and turn brown-black. Eventually, the centre of the spots may dry and leaf may drop prematurely. Infected young fruit has small black spots. As the bacteria further develop, the spots turn brown, slightly sunken, scabby, and sometimes surrounded by rings. Severe infestation gives the plant the appearance of blight.

Infected pepper leaf has small, circular pale-green raised spots. Eventually, the spots become chocolate-brown with a paler-brown center on the lower leaf surface. During severe infestation, the plant drops most of its leaves leaving its fruits exposed to direct sunlight. Infected fruit has circular green spots. As the bacteria progresses, the spots turn dark-brown to black and with raised, cracked,

its really hot outside where i live and it seems to slow the spread of the problem iset one out side and kept one inside and the inside plant got worse and i see no new damage on the outside ones but it gets to about 105 outside and its only getting hotter but the plant seems to like it she looks happy new dark green growth reaching outward

Uh oh.
This is interesting; have a gander:
Recognizing Tomato Problems
Bacterial canker? Ow.

Okay, I'm not sure if Serenade is effective against bacterial disease as it is against fungus, assuming that is even your main problem. I don't know much about bacterial infections of plants; I'll tell you what I personally would do if I saw that set of symptoms in my gardens:
1. Give a treatment of Serenade right away in case it is fungal
2. Give a foliar feed of CalMag Plus and a potassium supplement (PK13/14 adn other high P and K products are meant as a bloom blaster, but I have used them against deficiencies when I don't want to add other stuff to a mix) mixed at half strength
3. Check drainage in all pots; drill extra holes if you even suspect that it is impeded
4. Check soil runoff pH and flush to adjust if it is off. Add some Serenade and a little grow fert to the final flush solution.
This is for all the plants, not just the pot. Tomatoes and peppers like plenty of calcium too to avoid blossom end rot. So do all types of vine vegetables like squashes and zucchinis.
Good luck, sorry I can't be more help.

Edit:
REading the conditions under which blossom end rot (sign of Ca def in fruiting plants) occurs includes very hot weather during blossom set combined with changes in water quality and Ca becoming unavailable. Interesting. No matter what, I would definitely start putting your whole garden on a calmag supplement in their feed, and next year work some extra lime into the soil.

thanks as always stinky your opinions are much appreciated. i wish someone who has had similar problem would see this

i have 4 plants on the same schedule water feed etc. and only two contracted this prob dark soft spots that turn brown and fall apart so im leaning awy from nute def although i will try your recommendations

I know this is an old thread, but did you ever figure out for sure what was causing this? Because I have the same thing going on right now. Did you correct the problem you had? Do you remember how you fixed it?

Thank you for the help.

i ended up setting them out side and they started to show nice new growth which caused me to think it was room related so i wiped everything down with a 10% bleach solution ( walls, growmedia) and added much more air circulation and reintroduced them to the room after most infected areas got trimmed, some was left as not to take over 1/3 of the plant until i felt enough new growth was there to finish the job