The Sealed Room Technique... REVISED

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Itâ??s funny how things never seem to change, yet never stay the same. The same may be said with walk-in grow-rooms. I remember building my first grow-room while following the principles found in a popular indoor gardening book. Looking back, I wore out that particular book through constant reference and reading. With the aid of that book and an occasional visit from an experienced friend, things went pretty well. The markets were quite a bit different back then. People were just happy to have fresh domestically grown high quality herbs and tomatoes


Today, we have to do a little better if we want to impress our neighbors. These days, there a lot more people skilled in indoor cultivation, so it takes a little more to separate yourself (and your produce) from the herd. Remember, if you always do the same thing, you can always expect to get the same results.

The first place people look to make a change is in the strain of produce they grow. This is often a great place to start. However, the commercial grower often needs to produce what the buyer demands, rather than trying to dictate what the buyersâ?? demands will be. So if we arenâ??t changing the strain of produce, this would seem like a pretty short article in terms of what we can do to separate ourselves from the crowd.

Not really!!! Consider a car show. There may be hundreds of the same vintage of a particular make and model. The one that leaves with the blue ribbon is usually the one that has had the most attention spent to the details. Itâ??s never just one thing, itâ??s a compilation of many smaller details.


Through personal and shared experiences it has been observed that a given produce strain will take on different physical appearances and traits (phenotype) when grown in different grow-rooms although genetically the strain is the same in either room (geneotype).

For example, letâ??s say a commercial propagator produces cuttings from known and identical mother stock. Grower â??Aâ?� purchases a flat of cuttings, standing right behind him is Grower â??Bâ?� who also purchases a tray of cuttings. They are on opposite ends of town, and have constructed their growing environments independently of each other. During the first weeks of cultivation, the plants appear the same in either location. However, over the course of the crop the differences start to become less subtle and by harvest manifest into two very different looking crops. If Grower â??Aâ?�â??s crop exhibits more of the traits sought after in their marketplace, itâ??s near a sure bet that they will have sold their crop well before Grower â??Bâ?�, and likely at a premium.

The two greatest factors that will influence the phenotype (physical traits) of the plant are environment and nutrition. Aside from the variety grown, the number one factor in distinguishing a premium crop versus â??B Gradesâ?� is the environment it was grown in. Older style growroom construction allowed people to grow year round with fairly predictable results, but was not short on limitations. In my opinion, air exchange has been the number one limitation to maintaining and controlling the growing environment optimum for your crop.

Temperatures greater than 85°F are detrimental to overall crop quality in most cases. This temperature should not be exceeded in the plant canopy, directly under the lights, never mind on the thermostat hung on the wall several feet from the nearest H.I.D. light source. I cannot stress this enough. Yes, plants can metabolize faster under slightly warmer conditions in the presence of elevated CO2 levels, but this tends to contribute to less desirable developmental characteristics and physical appearances.


The first gardening books suggested that the grow-room be outfitted with an exhaust fan that was capable of discharging the entire internal volume of the room in about five minutes. Seems to me that was back when gardeners were illuminating an entire 10â?? X 10â?? room with one 1000W HID lamp. Perhaps it was on a light mover if things were really production orientated. That fan would run near constant during the light cycle, and rarely help to keep the temperature within optimal daytime ranges (75-85°F). Never mind if there was more than one light! Today, that same growroom may house up to 4-1000W HID lamps in the same 10â?? X 10â?? area. That exhaust fan just isnâ??t going to cut it anymore.

Air-cooled shades helped growers keep the same exhaust fan for their room, but they needed to go out and buy another exhaust fan(s) to mechanically vent their shades. For those of you unfamiliar with air-cooled reflectors, they help to reduce heat in the growing environment by removing the heat associated with grow lamps before it ever enters the growing environment.

The HID lamps are enclosed in a four-sided lamp reflector, which is sealed from the growing environment by a sheet of safety glass. Flexible ducting is then connected to the reflector via collars/flanges (two per shade: one in, one out). A fan pushes or pulls fresh, cool, outside air through the shades cooling the lamp(s); discharging the heat from the growing environment before it even enters. Problem solved? Not really.

A labyrinth of ducting is required for multiple light gardens. This can take up a lot of headroom and really restrict mobility within the G-room. Moving shades up and down to adjust for crop height also gets a lot more complicated. To optimize light levels, the glass safety shields need to be cleaned frequently. An additional intake and exhaust fan and opening(s) are also required. Unless very well insulted, this type of growing environment can be very loud with four plus fans running near constant during the light cycle. With all the heat being discharged, you may be the only one on the block with no snow in their yard or roof. What a claim to fame! Hopefully you wonâ??t be sucking flocks of birds into the intake ducts. With all this air exchange(s) It is very difficult to use supplemental CO2 efficiently, as it is typically exhausted away with warmer air. Also you donâ??t really control the internal temperature of the G-room.

The outside air temperature being drawn through the intake vents will dictate just how comfy your crop may be. If you live in an area with very cold nights, the outside temperature may be enough to lower your growroom temperatures near optimal, but if too cold, may shock and stunt plants nearest to the cold air source. There is a limitation inherent to all intake applications: you did not help to create the air drawn in. You are at the mercy of fate. Many spores resulting in diseases, insects, and other problems are drawn into perfectly healthy growrooms through the fresh air intake. An activated carbon filter may help to reduce these problems, but will not be effective if outside RH (relative humidity) is greater than 80%. If you use a carbon filter on your intake you will also be restricting airflow potential.

How about tearing out all that ducting, boxing up those fans, and sealing the intake and exhaust connections to outside? Yes, it can be done and you may wonder why you did things the other way before. CEA (Controlled Environment Agriculture) has given birth to the â??sealed roomâ?�. This is now a tried, true, and proven method of producing the highest quality crops on a consistent basis while eliminating many of the problems and pitfalls associated with the growrooms of yesterday. Letâ??s start with a fresh 10â?? X 10â?? room. Make sure that it is very well insulated for sound and temperature. Make sure that the room is completely sealed, there should be no light leaking from any cracks, particularly around door frames, etc. In a 10â?? X 10â?? area you should be able to install four -1000W HID lamps, or six-600W HID lamps (incredibly bright). All the walls, floor, and ceiling should be lined with a heavy gauge reflective and water resistant material. Six mil black and white poly is still great. It comes in large sheets (10â?? X 100â??), so it can be installed in one giant sheet, reducing cracks. All joints should be double sealed with a durable sheathing tape. Remember, the more airtight the better

In a truly sealed room the ballasts will also be housed in the growroom. Preferably, higher up on a shelf out of harmâ??s way, yet accessible for maintenance and routine inspection. This does create a lot of additional heat in the growroom versus remote ballasts outside of the growing area. However, it would defeat the â??sealedâ?� principle of this room to house the ballasts elsewhere. By centralizing the operation, you are consolidating all your eggs into one proverbial basket. It is also a well understood fact that longer lamp cords diminish the lumen output of most HID lamps, so shorter runs are preferred. If you mount sturdy shelves high up around the perimeter of the growing area, there is seldom any need for lamp cord lengths of greater than 18â??. For many good reasons, it is recommended that you run enclosed ballasts (boxed and louvered).

Since there will be no intake or exhaust, you will need to manufacture healthy air for the growing environment. The first step in maintaining clean, odour free air is an active carbon filter. There are many applications for active carbon filters, in this instance it will be installed with an inline centrifugal fan acting as a â??scrubberâ?�. Basically, for a 10â?? X 10â?? area, a three foot or four foot activated carbon filter will be plenty. Just sit a eight inch or 10â?� centrifugal fan on top, plug it in, and let run 24/7.
Air from the growing area will be continuously drawn through the activated carbon, and discharged and circulated through the growing environment. The activated carbon will trap unwanted spores (i.e. powdery mildew), dust, odours, and other airborne contaminants (well, except for Jimâ??s cigars) leaving the growroom air fresh and clean.
A de-humidifier is typically required for dark cycles. Note that in a sealed room the DIF (day/night temperature differential) can be controlled very precisely, so there is often less of a drastic rise in humidity from day to night cycles. RH (relative humidity) should be maintained between 45 to 65%. Higher humidity levels (80%) will decrease the effectiveness of the activated carbon scrubber.

You will need to supplement CO2 (carbon dioxide) levels. The most efficient way to accomplish this is to install a CO2 â??snifferâ?�. This device uses an infra-red beam to determine what the CO2 levels are on a second by second basis, and will activate a gas fired CO2 generator or open the solenoid on bottled CO2 to raise CO2 levels to your preset levels. For most crops, carbon dioxide levels are only supplemented during the light cycle. For smaller rooms, bottled CO2 is great especially if the room is well sealed. On larger rooms, the tanks will need to be replenished too frequently to be practical. Gas fired CO2 generators typically use natural gas or liquid propane (LP) for combustion to produce CO2. They do however, also create heat and moisture as a by-product. Newer generators have eliminated the standing pilot light and use a glow plug to ignite the burners when activated. This provides an added level of safety, helps reduce residual heat, and saves some gas consumption. For vegetative growth to mid flowering, carbon dioxide levels may be supplemented up to 4000 ppm. In the last few weeks of flowering, it is recommended that levels do not exceed 2500 ppm. In a well sealed 10â?? X 10â?? room, a single 25LB tank may last well over a week. Note: Do not keep propane tanks inside the growing environment for safety reasons.


At the heart of the success of a sealed growing environment is a well planned air-conditioning system (A/C). The best choice for most indoor gardens is a water cooled air-conditioner. Conventional A/C units require an air to air heat exchange. This means that the heat â??trappedâ?� by the A/C unit must be vented away. This is somewhat defeating to the â??sealedâ?� room, as now there is an active vent (to discharge heat from the A/C). As the name implies, water cooled A/C units use the flow of cool running water to remove the heat from the condenser unit. Basically, all the heat from the growroom can be discharged down the drain. Although extremely quiet in operation, and relatively easy to install, they are power and water consumptive. If using a gas fired CO2 generator, and housing the ballasts within the growing environment you should use about 4000 to 4500 BTUs of cooling capacity for each 1000W HID lamp. A comfort aire WPC 18 (18,000 BTUs) has proven to be ideal for cooling up to four lights and equipment in a sealed 10â?? X 10â?? room. Your A/C should always have a dedicated circuit, independent of any other equipment.


Once you have set up you room as described above (donâ??t forget your circulation fans) you just need to set your operating parameters, and the gear will do the rest. Itâ??s amazing that we have accepted such a lack of control in the past. Now when you set your day time to 80°F and your night to 75°F, you can bet thatâ??s exactly what you will have. Guess what, when you set you CO2 levels to 4000 ppm thatâ??s exactly what you will have... your RH to 65%; exactly what you will have! Note that if your A/C fails, your room can be subject to very high and very dangerous temperatures. Clever growers wire a 240V heating thermostat in line to the power supply of their lighting controls. The thermostat thinks that the lights are a heater and will keep the circuit open (supplying power to the lamps and ballasts) until a pre-set temperature is exceeded (i.e 92.5°F), then the power supplying the lamps will be shut-off saving you and your crop from disaster in the event of a failure in the A/C system. The most common factor in water cooled A/C failures is a lack of water flow to cool the condenser unit. If you turn a coldwater tap on in the same room as the source supplying the A/C it may be enough to shut the A/C down. They are built so that if there is inadequate cooling flow, the condenser will shut-off (as will the cooling capacity). This may be deceiving, as the fan/blower portion of the unit may remain active although not providing any cooling. Trust me, if you can get past the initial investment and are able to meet the increased power and water consumption requirements, you will wonder why we grew any other way. No more Hail Maryâ??s for temperatures at crop maturity, no more pulling pests and other problems into your room via intake. Best of all your room is now a sealed bunker well removed from the rest of the world. Hope you enjoy some quality time in your new fortress of solitude!



When growing indoors one must, for all intent and purposes, provide the essentials for plant life. When taking a brief survey most will pay heed to providing proper nutrition, Carbon Dioxide (CO 2 ) and light, the basis for photosynthesis and consequently plant growth. Growrooms are always a development in progress and as such many indoor gardeners have pondered what new piece of equipment or additive to experiment with next. Often an equipment upgrade or additional HID lamp will head the list. Many times it is the wrong choice. Man is often guilty of thinking, â??more is better.â?? In this case, any of the aforementioned should not hold consideration if proper attention has not been given to the garden environment. Yes, it is the exhaust fan that is one of the most essential and most often ignored pieces of equipment within the growroom. Air movement, through exhaust, can help maintain ideal temperature, humidity and CO 2 levels in the growroom. There are a number of problems that can easily be prevented by taking control of temperature and humidity ranges indoors. Air movement has a direct effect on a number of plant processes.


For instance the effect temperature can have on transpiration; a process that is shut down when temperature is excessive or causes condensation when temperatures reach too low a value. Complete control can be a formidable accomplishment during the winter months, however, any effort put toward the cause will be rewarded handsomely.
Most indoor gardens are often set up with regard to the winter season, with the air conditions outdoors being drier and cooler than those in the summer. In the winter, for the grower, this is a valuable resource, free of charge. Well, almost. In fact, all that is needed is a quality exhaust fan that is able to remove the volume of air in the room within three to five minutes. This may have to be accompanied by an additional intake fan,
depending on the conditions, the number of lights involved or the amount of heat created.
A fan will easily facilitate the removal of hot, humid air inside a growroom replacing it with cool, dry air.

In the summer months the outdoor conditions are reversed, making temperature control infinitely more difficult. Intake air will likely be as hot and humid as that from the outdoors. Many times a gardener can escape this by having the lights on in the middle of the night, taking advantage of cooler temperatures. But the relentless summer heat of the northern hemisphere will usually catch up with them in the end. This hot, humid air can have a devastating effect on indoor plants. This problem can be exacerbated by the increase in temperature from having several lights.


In the summer it often becomes imperative to control the heat created more effectively. Many times an air-cooled reflector with a separate exhaust fan is the answer. This will remove the heat from the bulb before it is able to increase the temperature of the garden area. An additional benefit of this method is the ability to bring lights closer to the plants increasing the total number of lumens available.
At other times, air-cooled systems are not enough, and it becomes necessary to introduce an air conditioner or heat exchanger. These options come at a significant cost. However, these costs can be deemed inconsequential when considering the amount of grief that can be prevented by buffering your indoor gardens from high temperatures and humidity, conditions that can have a detrimental effect on the plantâ??s ability to function.


There are a number of reasons how the plant is affected by the gardenerâ??s ability to remove air effectively. Chief amongst them would have to be the effect it has on CO 2 . Not only in relation to the amount available within the environment, but also to both the amount that can be taken into the plant and the rate at which it is processed. It is common knowledge that CO 2 and light must be present in order for plants to photosynthesize, the process it uses to create energy. It is a naturally occurring compound in the air, around 300 ppm. However, with adequate lighting a garden can easily consume the CO 2 available indoors within a few hours. By controlling temperature the CO 2 depleted air is removed and cool, carbon dioxide rich air is added.


When considering how CO 2 uptake is effected by temperature, a brief examination of the leaf structure is necessary. CO 2 is taken in through millions of microscopic openings located on the undersides of the leaves known as stomata. It is here that carbon dioxide is absorbed by the plant and taken within the interior of the plant in order to be combined with chloroplast and water to form Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP) the major source of usable chemical energy in metabolism. ATP is a compound that can be transported and broken down to be used for energy needed for development.

In respect to the stomata humidity and temperature ranges are of great consequence, but it is the latter that is of a primary concern. Just, as it can speed up the metabolic rate in animals, so too can it affect plants. Air temperatures within the range of 65-80º Fahrenheit are usually good parameters to seek within an indoor garden. The upper daytime limit can be raised to 85ºF or more when CO 2 is supplemented. In fact, the processing of CO 2 is directly affected by temperature. Some experiments have shown a rise of 20-30ºF can increase the rate of photosynthesis dramatically by increasing the speed at which carbon is taken from the CO 2 , thus increasing the amount of energy available. Of course this relationship is not infinite! A limit is reached, not too far above the 90º F mark. Once core leaf temperature rises to this point, the stomata will close in order to curtail excessive transpiration. This effectively starves the plant of CO 2 consequentially having a disastrous effect on yield.


Temperature in many respects can be seen as linchpin. If kept within range, transpiration will occur keeping stomata open, which will allow the plant to absorb the much needed CO 2 . When considering transpiration CO 2 is not the only concern. Most simply put, transpiration is the evaporation of water through the plant. Water is taken in through the roots because of osmotic pressure and sent up into the body of the plant, into the leaves, and in the end released through the stomata. It is through this process that nutrients taken into the plant and sugars created through photosynthesis are cycled throughout the plant. With this process occurring throughout the day, a number of gallons of water can be evaporated into a growroom having a direct effect on humidity. Plants that are reacting to higher temperatures attempt to cool themselves through transpiration. Hence, the temperature will increase the rate of transpiration directly affecting the humidity of the environment as well.


Most plants indoors would prefer relative humidity ranges of 40-60 % because it is within that optimum CO 2 absorption occurs. As relative humidity grows beyond the 60% level, the stomataâ??s ability to absorb it is retarded. It is mentioned above why CO 2 is important to plant development, but because of the effect high humidity has on stomata, it is also a concern.
A far more serious issue arrives when moist warm air is cooled to low temperatures. This occurs when the light(s) go into the off-cycle, eliminating the heat created by the bulb. When the temperature is left to drop more than 10-15º F in a humid environment condensation occurs. Basically, this temperature change affects the relative humidity or how much water the air may hold. When the drop is too sudden, the volume of airâ??s capacity to hold water vapour is lowered and water vapour becomes liquid ending up covering the surfaces of the garden room. These water droplets allow a number of fungi and moulds to colonize, powdery mildew being the most common. These reproduce by releasing spores that can spread throughout the foliage and if left unchecked will decimate the plants. Once these populations are present, a number of different products can be used to control them. These will, however, only limit the damage and sometimes a fresh start is what is needed. The removal plant material and wash down with a bleaching agent may be necessary. The best approach is to nip the problem in the bud and ensure all hot air is exhausted from the room.


It is by moving air that one can take control over the humidity in the room. It can be done in a number ways with various rates of efficacy. Arguable the simplest is to purchase a humidistat and a fan or if warranted a dehumidifier, allowing for establishment of upper humidity controls. By not allowing the humidity to build one escapes excessive condensation. Removing this air is essential, but equally important is moving fresh air throughout the garden canopy.


The foliage of the plantsâ?? is the area where all the aspects mentioned above come into play, and so the air within must be oscillated. By bringing in an oscillating fan or two the gardener will help to mix the air within the room, helping to create more uniform temperature and humidity. By mixing the cooler air from outside the area of the canopy with that within will reduce the humidity around the plants keeping the stomata open. There is additional benefit here, in that this new air is rich with carbon dioxide.

Oscillating air will also have an effect on a number of garden pests that become uncomfortable under a breeze. There are too many varieties of pests that can reek havoc on an indoor garden to discuss in full here, however, there is space to explore one example, perhaps the most common and devastating: The spider mite.

This microscopic spiderâ??s metabolism is increased with temperature reducing the time it takes for them to reach sexual maturity. When one is dealing with a population that grows exponentially, it can become beyond control in a short period of time. To shed a little more light on it, a spider mite living in conditions around 45º F will take around 25 days to produce an egg from the time it born. If the temperature is doubled to 90ºF the number of days will fall to about five. As well, the number of eggs that a female can lay will increase as the temperature increases.

It all comes back to the temperature/humidity issue. That is the primary reason for moving air in any garden. The above is no more than a brief synopsis, listing some of the benefits gained from moving air. It is therefore imperative not to ignore the climate within your growroom even if at times it is tempting to add another light or more additives with any extra money one might have.



One of the trends in the hydroponic marketplace is that growing technologies have become increasingly user friendly. There was a time not too long ago when hobby growers had to be ¼ grower, ¼ engineer, ¼ builder and ¼ electrician. Today small-scale growroom construction is simplified, or can be by-passed altogether with complete pre-assembled growing environments. For the commercial grower things have gotten a little easier, but most still prefer to do-it-themselves.

This trend of more user friendly technology coupled with an increase in the publicâ??s knowledge of hydroponic technologies has gotten many urban dwellers to convert a little extra space into productive indoor gardens.

You will need to find an out-of the way space you can use to construct or house your growing system. Some of the pre-fabricated growing chambers are stealthy enough to be incorporated into your living area without being terribly obtrusive.

Firstly, we will look at converting a spare closet, crawlspace or attic into your personal garden. For high-quality herbs, you will need about one square foot of linear floor space to produce about one ounce of dried herbs. Experienced growers can achieve 1-1/2 ounces per square foot or better, depending on the variety. A good size for a small personal garden might range from 2â?? X 3â?? to 3â?? X 5â??. After that, weâ??re talking about walk-in grow rooms because the average person only has a reach of about 36 to 40â?�. For efficient use of building materials and overall functionality 2â?? X 4â?? growing areas work well. If you donâ??t have a lot of vertical height there wonâ??t be a sufficient volume of air to buffer temperatures, so climate control will have to be precise and constant.

You will need to be able to completely enclose the space, providing a light and air-tight environment. You could be amazed at just how bright a ¼â?� light leak can be in a dark surrounding; like trying to keep the sun hostage in a bathroom closet. Black and white poly is inexpensive and relatively easy to wrap around a closet or crawlspace to close it in. Hold up a small square of cardboard where you staple to prevent the sheet of poly from ripping itself free of your staples. With doorways, cover the opening with a sheet of opaque poly and install a large zipper for an opening. This is the most simple and inexpensive way to address the challenge of constructing a light-tight space, although as far as construction materials go, itâ??s not especially durable.

To take it a step further you could line the growing area with 6 mil vapour barrier and install an insulative layer. I like the blue sheets of foam. A 1-1/2â?� thickness is nice to work with because you can create rigid panels with 2â?� X 2â?�â??s. For maximum insulation and soundproofing you can use ½â?� thickness plywood. Use two sheets along with some wood lathing to sandwich a ½â?� of packed fine sand. These sand-filled panels are very heavy to handle and require a fair bit of support. However, you could crank the 1812 Overture in the growing area and be near deaf to it on the other side. Cover the sand-filled panels with a durable and reflective surface.

Providing adequate ventilation can be a challenge when converting extra living space into a growing area. Actually, it can be really quite easy if you donâ??t mind drilling six inch diameter holes in your wall and stepping over and ducking around labyrinths of ducting. It can make for some interesting conversations when you have company over. However, do not be discouraged because it is possible to eliminate or minimize your ducting requirements.
To do this, you will need to enrich the growing environment with carbon dioxide via a tank and flow meter. You will also need an activated carbon filter so that the exhaust from smaller growing areas can be safely introduced into your living space. In winter months the extra heat and humidity can be quite welcome.
The exhaust system may serve to function as: air exchange, heat reduction, and humidity reduction. Your thermostat(s) must control heating and cooling. If not using a dehumidifier, a dehumidifying thermostat will also be need to be wired in-line with the exhaust fan. A high degree of thermostatic accuracy is important to maintain constant temperatures as changes can occur quickly in growing environments with limited air volume. Look for a narrow differential (+/- rating) on the thermostat you use. Digital is preferred. If using H.I.D. lamps in small areas, air-cooled reflectors will be a must, and you may need to run ducting to draw air to the growing area.


Alternatively, you can illuminate the growing area with fluorescent lighting. The new generation of compact fluorescent lights help closet growers eliminate many of the problems associated with using H.I.D. lighting in small spaces. An inexpensive light meter was held up to the 90 watt version (high Kelvin) at a distance of about one inch, and came up with a reading of about 50, 000 lumens. At one foot from the bulb the light dropped considerably in intensity and read 5,000 lumens. With reflective walls close to the plants and using good quality light reflectors a grower could harvest a respectable crop using a â??sea of greenâ?� application in an area of about 2â?? X 2â?? with the crop finishing at less than 12 to 16â?� high.


Standard 4â?? fluorescent tubes are capable of producing high-quality plants provided that the area is blanketed by the tubes coupled with highly reflective surfaces enclosing the growing area. It can take a little bit of engineering to use a standard 4â?? fixture while using 4â?? building materials. The plants should be only about 12 to 16â?� tall at harvest if using fluorescent lighting due to the sharp decrease in intensity with distance traveled. Remember that if you blanket a small area with fluorescents and keep the distance to plants at a minimum, you will have good light intensity even if only 20% of the initial lumens produced are available for photosynthesis (although using more watts per lumen to do so). In all small growing environments it is critical to use the right strain. You are basically looking for â??dwarfâ?� varieties or plants that tend to maintain tight internodal spacing through a range of growing conditions. â??Tiny Timâ?� tomato varieties produce harvestable fruit 45 days from transplant and can finish at less than 18â?� in height.
To help keep plants within an efficient size range you can try the following:

â?¢ Maintain narrow Day/Night temperature differentials as large swings in temperature can trigger stretching.
â?¢ Never let the temperature get higher than 85 degrees Fahrenheit with supplemental carbon dioxide or 75 degrees Fahrenheit using ambient carbon dioxide levels.
â?¢ Initiate the reproductive cycle as soon as a root system has become established. You may need to do a minor leaf pruning occasionally to improve air circulation and light penetration in the plant canopy.

â?¢ Good plant hygiene is a must when plants are growing in close quarters. Try to use materials that are durable and easy to keep clean.

â?¢ Keep a close eye on your nutrient strength around the roots, high ammonium levels can contribute to an increase in internodal spacing. In these types of situations it might be better to go a little under than over with nutrient concentrations. Use a nutrient that can be tailored to your particular growing situation and plant variety.

â?¢ Bend and tie down branches or entire plants as necessary to maximize light and reduce vertical height.

â?¢ Use lights higher in the blue spectrum of the photosynthetic response curve as this will help maintain tight internode spacing in certain varieties (often of more Northern origin-thanks Dave and Justin)


Now that we have scratched the surface of whatâ??s involved in converting some extra space into a garden area, letâ??s look at some features found in manufactured growing systems or some concepts that you might like to incorporate into your own.
Carbon Dioxide is usually supplied via tank and flow meter.
Most personal growing systems have limited air volume so the extra heat associated with fuel burning CO2 generators can pose a problem. However, they can be used provided that the hot carbon dioxide rich air passes through a cooling system before being introduced into the growing environment. Fossil fuel combustion also produces moisture (humidity) as a by-product of combustion. The flow of carbon dioxide from the tank into the distribution system is controlled by an air solenoid and digital timer. The grower must then adjust the flow meter so that the gas is released at the appropriate rate for the correct duration at timed intervals.

A step-up is to use an infra-red CO2 sensor integrated with the climate control system (exhaust fan and thermostats). For most plants, supplemental carbon dioxide is only supplied during the light cycle. With all growing systems operated near living areas, you want to minimize the amount of noise and vibration. This is most easily done by using a high quality enclosed fan. It is better to have a fan with higher-output capabilities running on a slower speed than it is to have a medium to low output fan running at higher speed.

Separate timers are required to maintain different day lengths if you want to maintain a vegetative growth chamber and flowering chamber concurrently. This way you maintain a consistent supply. For short day plants, timers are usually set for 18 to 24 hours of day length per 24 hour cycle for vegetative growth and 12 hours of light per 24 hour cycle for reproductive growth (budding, flowering, fruiting, etc). If maintaining separate chambers you should try to have them be around the same size. This offers a lot more versatility with plant spacing, sizing, breeding, and experimentation.

You can even attempt to create your own eco system by practicing aquaculture, which is a growing method that can help sustain live plants and raise fish for human consumption. Basically the fish waste feeds the plants and the plants clean the fish water.
If possible, the growing spaces themselves should be modular and relatively easy to move if necessary. The growing device should also be flexible in allowing you to switch and choose different growing methods. For instance, you should be able to run the area hydroponically with relative simplicity in ease of maintenance, refilling, cleaning, etc.

Accessibility is a must, preferably without disrupting growing cycles. You should also be able to grow in soil or soilless medium if you decide to try practice a few different methods. Planting density will also become very important when working with manufactured systems in a limited amount of space. You want to fit as much plant material in as little space as possible to maximize yields. There are some newer manufactured hydroponic systems that maximize light-use efficiency by completely surrounding the lights. In one such system the plants are suspended vertically facing a light column (similar to column culture of strawberries). In another, the plants rotate horizontally around a fixed light column (like a rotating drum). Always make sure that your planting density allows sufficient air volumes for healthy growth.

If you want to incorporate the growing device into a living area you will want to limit the amount of ducting required. As mentioned earlier, by reducing the cooling requirements (lighting), supplementing sealed environments with CO2, and using a safe air-purification system such as an activated carbon filter you can pretty much eliminate or minimize any additional ducting required.
The unit should also be light tight and aesthetically appealing if you intend to share living space with it. Raising any living thing takes a level of commitment, even if with high levels of automation and monitoring. Like many things in life, you will only get out of your grow space what you put into it. So be prepared for an initial investment, and with practice and patience you can be rewarded with a lifetime of bountiful harvests.



Please if there is any other ideas you may have post themâ?¦..

Tranobile is saying he is getting 3lbs a 1000 watt w/ this set up and his (SOG) look GREAT I donâ??t doubt him!!!!!! Hope we all can see the same results. Check Out his thread to it is 3lbs Sealed Room... Great Thread:thumbsup::thumbsup::jointsmile:

GOOD LUCK TOO ALL!!!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

goos stuff greenleaf....
guess you do got thicker skin than stated...lol, I'll post this here, so everyone can see it:thumbsup: you caught me on a bad day, and messages got typed before responses where seen...
anyway, I am currently working on a sealed mother space...and swear by "great stuff" this foam in a can that swells after sprayed and fills gaps missed...check it out sometime.
:smokebong:
whiskeytango

Hey Sns I just paid the rent for May 1st every things going to be good just a slow start though. I have all plans on going sealed and linking the mother room to it by doing a exchange venting in and out from the flowering. I just received the seeds from the seed boutique I ordered about 2 weeks go. They just came in today getting ready to pop these bad boys. It's going to take sometime on getting them all ready. Working on trying to get 100+clones just seem to be hitting a little road block. I'm going to blow the road up if have to thought.... LOL CO2 12 burner unit coming soon my plans are a 6x8 veg room and a 10x17 flowering room. The water cooled units I'm having a little trouble finding but I'm determined to make it work I may just cheat with venting a regular portable A/C. Because every light will need 4000btu's figure at least 25,000 BTU or better. I;m determined to make this work. I will pop up some picks once construction begins.... Hows those Procyon's treating you?

harvest in about 2 weeks! sounds like you got this room covered...anxious to see pics!
:smokebong:
whiskeytango

Nice one Sns!!!!

Hey What's your belief on the possibility's and potential for the Procyon to do a SOG Garden? Initial Investment would probably pay off 3-4 harvest. I have some Buddy's they are so paranoid they are going to send someone to Pick up the LED's from the store. They will not go on line.

I don't know if this will work but if so here is a link to a Top of the line Co2 unit that runs off liquid propane.

Solatel Gas Pro 12 Natural Gas Generator With CO2 400 Controller: J from Kalyx.com - Hydroponics & Gardening - CO2 Enrichment

It comes with a in fared detector with a 10ft cord or you can remove that and just take unit. Need controller thought this is a 12 burner with a spark light instead of glow plug.

So has anyone learned anything from this thread?

Yes, Ive been reading for, oh I don't know how long, but its time for another bowl. Read the whole thing. I like the whole idea of a seal roomed but the initial investment thing...Gonna slowly gather the items though and maybe this time next year who knows!! Great information for the novice..
Nice job GL:thumbsup:

I went for the $$$ using cheap Mexican labor it ran me $1200 for the Materials and the build cost me $2000.00 so It only cost $3200 to build from scratch. Then all the Accessories they add up quick... I had them build it out of OSB Flower room are these dimensions. Ceilings are 9 1/2 width is a little small to late now but it is 8 1/2 and length is 17 1/2 feet. My Veg room is a nice size it is 8 Ft Wide and 10 Ft Long W/ Higher Ceilings. The investment was worth it I have 2 Ac's running 3HPS 1000's and a 430 in Veg With a T5 CO2 Anther AC in Veg and my Electric bill is only $227.00. I think the sealed is keeping everything cool with out having to strain on all equip...

Very interesting power consumption...I have access to something of the same size. Me construction skills is at an all time low so I have to do some more studying up on the electrical aspect. Is the CO2 burner you mentioned in the thread the one u run?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Forwhat420

Very interesting power consumption...I have access to something of the same size. Me construction skills is at an all time low so I have to do some more studying up on the electrical aspect. Is the CO2 burner you mentioned in the thread the one u run?

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This is the one I use here $1100.00 Bucks and she works Beautiful. No problems it works on liquid propane and has a Electric spark no Glow Plug or Pilot Light I heard they could give you problems.

This is the name Gas Pro 6 Liquid Propane Generator With CO2 400 Controller

good info!