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My nitrogen deficient plants are getting worse! I don't know what to do! Pretty much all the large fan leaves of the one plant have been consumed, and now my best looking plant is starting to turn really yellow towards the top. I am on day 23 today. What the F should I do?
What's your nute system?
I'ld need some info on grow to even guess wildly.
medium.
temps
nutes
ect.
very quick fix would be foliar feeding? just a guess....
I'm feeding the 50/50 veg/bloom mix right now, have been for 5 days now. I also use Liquid Karma and SuperThrive. My temps are all normal. My PPM was 1950 when I checked it like 10 min ago.
1950?
N~P~K?
ph? you are hydro? near 5.8?
I don't know the exact ratio of NPK since I'm doing the 50/50. The Veg is 4-1.5-5 I think and the Bloom is 2.5-2-5. Its Pure Blend Pro. I'm using hydro and my pH is in a normal range, 5.7-6.1.
ppm seems high . what stage of groth are you in .
Day 23 of flower
6.5-3.5-10
3weeks into bud. imo that too much N and no where near enough P. in bud i use 9-50-10 for example.
ppm seems high to me to, but I'm not current on hydro. coir jor self mix soilless here. all soilless atm.
idk your nutes, but most 3-4 week budding plants need their cal and mag avalible. imho
Have you tried a foliar application of your grow nute @ 25-50% of standard dose?
I'm also wondering about root zone issues- what do your roots look like? What's the res temperature?
Are you still using that Hanna that won't calibrate?
Well if its too much N, you'd never know it by looking at the plants because they are suuuuuper yellow. It used to be just the older leaves on the one plant, but it has now progressed to the leaves around the buds and the edges are starting to turn yellow. Rhizome told me to feed according to the label, which would explain the high PPM. I read around and found that in flower you can feed up to 2K and its not too bad. There's no signs of nute burn and its been 5 days, so IDK. I just don't want my plants to consume themselves anymore, they've got about 3.5 weeks to go still!
Rhizome - My roots are sitting in a little bit of water, about a half inch or so, due to poor bin design and the fact that I broke one of my new ones during the mayhem from a few days ago. The roots are pretty black but I think its just from the LK because they've looked the same since I started using it. They don't smell or anything. The res is about 70 degrees. I quit using the Hanna because I ran out of reference solution, so I've just been using the liquid kit. I haven't tried foliar feeding because I am in flower and I thought spraying the plants when they were flowering is bad because of mold? My humidity stays low around 30%.
Anyway to get that water out of there?
LK shouldn't turn roots black- stain 'em from pure white, sure... but not turn em black.
Foliar feeding in flower is not as bad as allowing everything to die.
This yellowing- is it even across the leaf? Do the veins remain green?
Well, the roots aren't really black black, but they are definitely stained a dark color from the LK. I don't suspect the roots because they pretty much look the same as they always have. There's really no way to get the water out other than fix my bins, but I was hoping to do that after harvest. My flower room has some serious design issues but I don't think its possible to change everything that needs to right now while its up and running. Also, the yellow started when I was using the new bins where all the water drained, so I don't think its part of the issue, but I could be wrong.
The leaves turn completely yellow, from the edges in, and stay that way for a day or two, then shrivel up completely and turn brown.
Running CalMag?
No I don't use Cal Mag. Should I? I use tap water and thought it was only necessary if you use RO or distilled water.
The yellowing " from the edge in" followed by the sudden mortality is making me wonder (strongly) about a calcium def.
You pretty much always want to use Calmag w/ PBP, unless your water is signifigantly Ca hard.
Drop the superthrive, too- it'll delay finish.
I would have a look at one of the troubleshooting guides- don't have links handy, but googling " jackerspackle" will get you to the old OG version.
I don't think that your problem is N.
I'll try and pick up some Cal Mag today. Thanks a lot Rhizome!
Don't just throw chemistry at it- look at the guides and see if the pics match what you're seeing.
Lotta things will cause yellowing.
DJ - Just because you are putting nutes into your reservoir doesn't necessarily mean that your plants are taking up those nutrients. They could be locked out. This is often caused by pH issues.
Just for the hell of it, take some of the water that is sitting in the bin and check the pH. Knowing your run-off pH should give some more insight into what your problem is.
PC :smokin:
I did the Jackerspackle thing and it told me overfert. I am pretty confident that pH is not the problem. I check it pretty often and its always within range. However, I will check the bin pH once the lights turn on tonight and see what it says. I think I am going to try to change the res again and not put in as much nutes so my PPM is a little lower.
The pictures of calcium deficiency I have seen don't really match what I see on my plants. The edges of the leaves in the pics of Ca deficiency look burnt and almost rusted, where as the yellowing I am seeing is a straight, bright, solid yellow throughout the whole leaf, and then the leaf will shrivel and die within a day or two.
The more I read, the less idea I have of what the problem really is.
This sounds exactly like what is happening to my plants to a T, but the extra nitrogen didn't do anything. It said that Nitrogen is best absorbed with a pH between 5.0-7.0 and I am 100% sure mine has been within that range.Quote:
Nitrogen Deficiencies
Plants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. Quality and yield will be significantly reduced. Older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. Leaf margins will not curled up noticeably. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.
WTF???:wtf:
DJ - there is a big part of this concept that you simply are not grasping. Read this thread:
http://boards.cannabis.com/plant-pro...-question.html
PC :smokin:
I didn't get anything from that...?Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmaCan
Ok, so after reading it all again, all I got was that your pH climbs back to 7.5 pretty fast and throws things out of whack, but I don't have that problem. My pH goes up about .3 over the course of a day. If there is something I didn't grasp from that thread, please fill me in. I will admit that I only read to page 3 because it wasn't really pertinent to my situation.
I got CalMag Plus, so I will start using it tonight. I noticed it has a 2-0-0 on the front meaning it has some nitrogen in there, so hopefully things will turn around.
Well, it discusses nutrient lockout - but you don't seem to want to consider that possibility, so there's not much else I can suggest you do.
Good luck with your grow!
PC :smokin:
Sorry, but when there isn't anything that relates to my situation in the first three pages of an 8 page thread, I don't really want to read the last 5 pages. I understand nutrient lockout in relation to pH, but I am 99% confident that my issue is not pH related. The 1% is reserved because anything is possible, but my pH is very constant and something I keep a close eye on. If there is something else buried in that 8 page thread that I missed or am not understanding, it would be sweet if you could just tell me what it is.
Instead of changing the whole res, I diluted the solution down to 1400 PPM and then added 95 mL of CalMag Plus which brought it to 1750. I also did a foliar feed with my veg nutes. How often should I do the foliar feed? I tried to keep it to the leaves as much as possible and keep it off the buds. Hopefully things start turning around, but if not and my sick plants happen to die, would the buds even be worth saving at only 4 weeks?
I found what you were talking about deep in page 5, with the high PPM causing the roots to "shut their mouths". I knew a little about this from reading about PPMs and how if you get it too high, the plant can't take up enough water and things get locked out.
I also found this interesting:
Looks like we are in the same boat here, buddy. :jointsmile:Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmaCan
I don't know where you are at on this, but that jackerspthingee was right. 1950 is way too high for PPM for most all strains. Try about 1400 or so and see what happens.